Monitoring temp on the cheap...

Can I just get a couple mechanical thermometers,
I am going to mount them on a t in conjuntion with the sight tube......

Good luck, but I would personally be worried about;
#1 the ability for he epoxy to bond to the smooth plastic in the cooler
#2 the ability of the epoxy to withstand the flexing of the cooler walls due to changing temp.

I did it another way, one not so prone to these issues.

I'm looking for a stopper to mount the thermometer in...

Dunno what OSH is... but as long as it is a solid rubber gum stopper, should do the trick.

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The Pol said:

Dunno what OSH is... but as long as it is a solid rubber gum stopper, should do the trick.

Click to expand...

FYI, OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) is a West Coast (or maybe just Cali?) hardware store affiliated with Sears.

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MoreBeer.com sells silicone stoppers!! Great for high temperatures.

https://morebeer.com/view_product/16645/102272/Silicone_Bung_Solid_-_Carboy

Also, check out this post by The Pol.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/10-thru-wall-therms-pics-too-24946/

After doing some more research on this forum...Here is what I came up with...
I have the parts to finish this up in the morning...

Sweet setup! Simple and effective.

Why the edited posts though tireater?

Just getting rid of dumb questions...I have quite a few lately...
Now on to the steam injection....

Comination sight glass / thermometer ya? Sweet.

How does putting screws in the side effect the insulation of the cooler?

I would use a longer hose on your mash tun for draining. It helps create the suction and siphon. I forget what its called, but I can tell you the effect is quite different. When I first built my mash tun, filled her with water open the valve, just barely a dribble, attached the hose ... way more flow.

That was just some scrap hose I had laying around...I'm gonna buy new food grade hose in a couple days...
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I don't think the screws will effect insulation...It is foam filled and the just go thru the outside plastic...
.
I will put foam in the lids when the temp is warmer in the next few days...

Jesse,
Have you read Papazian's 'Treatise on Siphoning'...I think it's an appendix to TNCJOH.

Basically the message is that when you are siphoning (or even draining in this case) the rate of flow (neglecting hose friction) is only dependant on the height difference between the top level of the liquid and 'the hole'. When you attach a hose to the spigot, the end of the hose is 'the hole'. So if you raise the end of the hose to the same level as the liquid...no flow. But the lower you put the hole...the more flow (within reason...at some point the hose friction becomes a big factor).

Sweet thermometer/sight glass setup op! I'm still dangling a wort-proofed digital probe over the top.

SpanishCastleAle said:

Jesse,
Have you read Papazian's 'Treatise on Siphoning'...I think it's an appendix to TNCJOH.

Basically the message is that when you are siphoning (or even draining in this case) the rate of flow (neglecting hose friction) is only dependant on the height difference between the top level of the liquid and 'the hole'. When you attach a hose to the spigot, the end of the hose is 'the hole'. So if you raise the end of the hose to the same level as the liquid...no flow. But the lower you put the hole...the more flow (within reason...at some point the hose friction becomes a big factor).

Sweet thermometer/sight glass setup op! I'm still dangling a wort-proofed digital probe over the top.

Click to expand...

Yup that makes sense, but without the hose, you can't make the hole at the end of the spigot longer.THanks for the clarification. The reason I bring it up is that I have seen some folks make mashtuns and complain that drain off is slow.

That plastic or nylon NPT to barb fitting I.D. sure looks rather small in diameter, your first siphon flow restriction problem plus that short drop working against you. I would build a frame to elevate the cooler up higher on the counter top for a start. If the fittings and ball valve are already the same diameter as the barb I.D. then your only cure is to make a higher drop between coolers.

I am using 1/2" through out...It flows great !
I used a nylon adapter as that was all they had...no brass...

That's cool your set.
When I first started brewing I had the boil pot set at the bottom of the cement stairs heading to the basement which had a 5' square landing as the boiling location. This 1905 house had a high ceiling even in the basement.
Old houses and stairs must of been a common build idea years ago.

This is an awesome thread. I will send a couple of friends to it for reference. I feel the tuns are easy enough for them to wrap their heads around. I start talking and they lock-down (thinking it is over their heads) due to my system, but this is brilliantly KISS. Bravo!

I asked about the removed posts due to them as well, my friends that is. These threads are here a long time and many people read them gaining useful knowledge both from the good ones and the bad/stupid. I'm just saying you might think what you posted was stupid, but others may find retort by other posters useful in figuring out a similar or completely different problem they might be having. I ask stupid stuff all the time.:rockin:

Again... Brilliant! Prosted!

I'm not working right now so I needed an extra hobby.
My brother and dad are engineers and I like figuring this stuff out...
My buddy got into homebrewing a month before me...I sure like my efforts better than his...
It is a little amazing the system the system I threw together in a week...
Steam inj and stiring while closed...Ye Haa
The only idea I had was getting rid of the high temp hose in the drain and
using all 1/2 and the origional seal...
Everything else I gathered on this site or on line...So thanks everyone...!