Extract batch with small pot

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kontrol

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I'd like to make a 6 gal (23L) extract batch. I have a 4.75 gal (18L) pot so I need to make a partial boil and add water to the fermenter at the end.

My question is, does the water of volume used for the partial boil important? I use beersmith to plan my recipes and I'm trying to setup my equipment profile. I should make a 4 GAL partial boil, and add the missing water at the end. But the missing water is it 2 GAL (since I made a 4 GAL partial boil) or is it (6 GAL - (4 GAL - water lost during boil))? I guess if I do the later It change the result a lot (I guess you can calculate that in beersmith). What's the prefered method?

Also is there a minimum water volume to be used in partial boil? I mean could it be possible that my water level is not enough so my extract/grains/hops doesn't dissolve completly in water or that something will be "missing"?

Hope my questions are clear enough :)
 
I was wondering if my setup (see pic below) makes any sense. Any though?

2qvfouv.png
 
You want to use as much water in the boil as is possible. One of the things I suggest is using 1 pound of extract per gallon of liquid in the boil at the beginning, and adding the bulk of the extract at flame out. That helps let you boil more liquid (extract takes up a lot of space in the pot!), keeps the extract from getting maillard reactions and darkening, and having less of a cooked extract taste, as well as improves the color of the finished beer.

You should boil off far more than .29 gallons an hour, though! I'd expect to boil off 1 gallon per hour, if you have a nice rolling boil.
 
You want to use as much water in the boil as is possible. One of the things I suggest is using 1 pound of extract per gallon of liquid in the boil at the beginning, and adding the bulk of the extract at flame out. That helps let you boil more liquid (extract takes up a lot of space in the pot!), keeps the extract from getting maillard reactions and darkening, and having less of a cooked extract taste, as well as improves the color of the finished beer.

You should boil off far more than .29 gallons an hour, though! I'd expect to boil off 1 gallon per hour, if you have a nice rolling boil.

In my case is 4 gal good for the boil?

In my recipe I have 6lb 9.8oz of Extract. And when you say flame out, you mean after it has boiled for 1 hour and I close the heat and close to cool it?
 
In my case is 4 gal good for the boil?

In my recipe I have 6lb 9.8oz of Extract. And when you say flame out, you mean after it has boiled for 1 hour and I close the heat and close to cool it?

Yes, 4 gallons if good if it fits and it doesn't boil over! :D

I'd probably use 2 pounds of extract in the beginning, and then add the rest at flame out, just when you kill the heat.
 
Yes, 4 gallons if good if it fits and it doesn't boil over! :D

I'd probably use 2 pounds of extract in the beginning, and then add the rest at flame out, just when you kill the heat.

2 pound? Didn't you said 1 pound per galon in the boil? (Just making sure it's not an error :) )
 
Yeah, I did! But I would still go with two pounds, as extract is heavy and takes up alot of room. Adding two pounds to, say, three gallons, might overflow your pot!

Oh thank. Also when we say a 4 gal partial boil, it's 4 gal water AND extract right? So in this case it would be for my 4.75 pot (18L) a partial boil of 4 gal (15L) made of 2L of extact and 13L of water, which make up 15L. Then I add my 4L and 9.8oz remaining at the end of the 60 minute boil time.

Also doesn't extract need to boil at least for 15 minute? to reach the hot break?
 
No,extract has already been through hot break,etc. One time I added a pound of wheat DME & got a large hot break though. Even for partial mash,I boil a total of 3 gallons. With extract brews,I add 1.5lbs of plain DME for hop additions. DME isn't effected as much by mailard reactions ime.
 
Not in my experience,no. I add LME at flame out,cover & steep for 15 minutes. Even though pastuerization happens about 162F. Ciovwering & steeping the wort accompishes this,since the wort is still 180F+ at this point.
 
I make extract kits with a 3.5 gallon pot. Just follow what the thread says and you'll be fine.
 
Not in my experience,no. I add LME at flame out,cover & steep for 15 minutes. Even though pastuerization happens about 162F. Ciovwering & steeping the wort accompishes this,since the wort is still 180F+ at this point.

Alright. So I don't need to cool as fast as possible? Or as long as temp is above a certain level? ( http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html it's my current reference )
 
After steeping,I do an ice bath. Put BK in the sink,fill to top of sink with ice,then top that off with water. I have a floating thermometer in the BK while chilling down to pitch temp. Then pour all through a fine mesh strainer into the FV. Top off with chilled water stir roughly for 5 minutes.
 
Just to make sure, the LME I add count as the total of "liquid" in my recipe right?

What I mean is if my partial boil is 4 GAL, all the LME in the partial boil count toward the 4 GAL right? It's not 4 GAL of water + the LME
 
Basically,yes. you have to account for total volume of water + any additions.

Is the amount of water lost during stepping of any concern?

I'm about to brew my first beer, which explains the huge amount of questions :)
 
It's not as critical when steeping. After the steep,do your boil as usual. Then adjust the volume with top off water in the fermenter to recipe volume. That's what I've always done.
 
Kontrol,

When I was doing split boils on my stove I used fermcap-s to keep boil overs to a minimum allowing me to fill my pots nearly to the top.
 
Hey thanks guys for the tips. I finally made my first brew and realized many things. First off yeah, I boiled 1 gal per hour or so. And I should get a new pot, problem is, I'd like to finally do all grain so I'd like to plan what I should buy. And my stove is one with the glass surface, so I don't know what's the limit of weight I can put on it.
 
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