American Pale Ale Lake Walk Pale Ale

dstar26t said:

Does toasting the malt reduce the extract potential of the grain, giving lower mash efficiency? I'm doing 12 gallons of it this weekend for the first time.

Click to expand...

From what I understand it should be treated close to crystal malt of the same degree. It will have about the same extract potential as base malt but you will lose some fermentables. This can be confused as the same thing..but extract is not the same..hope this helps....

I would just plug it into a program as biscuit malt and set your effieciency from that point.

Jay

This recipe is my new favorite and may soon become my house ale. I'm toasting another 4lbs. of 2-row today for batch #2 of LWPA coming this weekend. The last 10g batch of it only lasted me 3 weeks.

This is the only beer that I have made twice. I just kegged the second batch over the weekend.

Kegged my batch up tonight after a week of dry hopping. It was awesome uncarbed and warm, can't wait to try it chilled, carbed and aged. This will definitely be my entry in the kabouter kup. It ended up at 1.014 so it maintained a really nice toasty maltiness that is balanced perfectly by the bitterness and hop aroma and flavor. Thanks for the great recipe!

I can't take it anymore. I'm going to cloud this thread with newb questions, but through search couldn't find the help I need. I'm not ready for AG, but hoping to brew this extract-style this month. I've found simcoe and amarillo at austin for a reasonable price (relatively), but have a few questions.

1. Does whole leaf vs. pellets matter? (do I need to adjust amounts respectively?)
2. Are all whole leafs and pellets the same? I see you guys posting AAU numbers, but am not sure if those numbers are the same as what I see at Austin.
3. Any ideas on what extracts to sub for this? I've been doing kits from my LHBS with LME and steeping grains, but not sure what things to sub for what.

I looked at the prices at my LHBS and they are much higher than Austin, so going local doesn't seem to be a good plan although they'd otherwise help me work through this.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

Jay
BTW, so far I have brewed an APA which is great, although not hoppy enough and a blonde which is frighteningly drinkable.

Parti gyled this one!

I had been looking forward to using my new barley crusher and especially brewing this recipe - I've become a Simcoe addict.

I also really liked Old Guardian - Stone's Barleywine release. I found out it had some Simcoe in it, so....

I mastered up a plan to parti gyle a barleywine creation and Lake Walk together:

First runnings were the barley wine - A Giant Lake Walkish Barleywine.
I've dubbed it Big Jake Barleywine.

Beer 1 - Big Jake Barleywine
Remember this grain bill is used for both batches:

26lbs 2 Row
2 lbs toasted Maris Otter (not that it will matter much but what the heck)
.5 Crystal 60
.5 Wheat flakes
Amarillo .5 oz @ 60
Simcoe .25 oz @60
Simcoe 1.75 oz @20
Saaz 2 oz @5
American Ale II yeast - big starter

mashed at 152 collected about 4.25 gallons - was shooting for 5, but the gravity was through the roof 1.110!!

Post boil I added almost a gallon to get this close to 1.100, which will still put me in serious high alcohol barleywine territory.

Beer 2: Lake Walk Pale Ale via 2nd and 3rd runnings + capping:
added -
4 lbs toasted 2 row
1 lb Crystal 60
1 lb flaked wheat
hops schedule as per Dude's recipe
yeast: US-05
mashed at 153
Pre boil Gravity = 1.050

Both are fermenting away like mad at 60 deg F... they also both smell amazing.

I'm looking forward to 2 weeks from now - some tasting at transferring! With the abv on the barleywine though she may will need month to mellow, yeeow!

What a great recipe! With it I made the best beer I've brewed so far. Everyone who tastes it compliments the flavor. Thanks Dude.

Dude,
This beer came out great. I used torrified wheat instead of the flaked wheat since I had some to use. Is this why I'm craving more mouthfeel from the recipe or is it really that light feeling on the palate? I modified the water to help accentuate the hops and I think they are too much for a pale ale, this thing tastes like an IPA but with only 46 IBU's. I did a double batch to give half away and I'm not sure the intended audience will appreciate it as much as I do.
Thanks for the great recipe!

Nate

I cracked another bottle open after 3 months after brew date... or 2 months since bottling..
man, it is much smoother now... I found the beer to harsh with the pine taste (Simcoe?) when it is young.. now the hop mellow out, it is much much nicer to drink.

I only have MO on hand and want to brew this up... will it be OK or should I lessen the amount of toasted malt with the MO?

I'm brewing this one for my first AG batch. However, I have three 3 questions:

What fermentation temps work best?

What about toasting all the grain / none of the grain, anybody have experience with either? I accidentally mixed all of the grains.

New to AG I am wondering what inputs to use on this mash / sparge water calculator?

Here is the caclulator:
http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

I am most uncertain about mash thickness, percent boil-off, grain absorb., and wort shrinkage. But if I have everything right, I should end up with 5 gallons at the end, correct?

Cheers

Dude:

This is a great beer. I brewed 10 gallons of it (just bottled it), and I love the piney-ness I got from the hops. I think I'm going to scale all the ingredients up and make a IIPA based on the recipe.

DZzero:

While I'm posting, may as well address some questions... I fermented mine between 65 and 70, just don't go much above 70. For the toasted grains, I just used Victory (which is just a toasted malt) because I was too lazy to toast my own

Looking at the calculator you posted, I would just think about a few things:

- I always budget for 5.5 gallon batches because there will be a bunch of junk in the bottom of your fermentor that you don't want to bottle/keg.
- Mash thickness of 1.33 quarts per gallon is what I always go with.
- Percent boil-off is a tricky one, and depends on a lot of things (they talk about at the bottom of the page). One they don't mention is that if it is really humid out, you won't boil nearly as much off as you would on a really dry day...

Let us know how it goes if you didn't brew it already. Good luck!

hamilt22 said:

Dude:

This is a great beer. I brewed 10 gallons of it (just bottled it), and I love the piney-ness I got from the hops. I think I'm going to scale all the ingredients up and make a IIPA based on the recipe.

Click to expand...

You may not want to exactly scale up the grain bill, as it could lead to a very sweet beer- maybe increase just the 2-row, and even contemplate adding sugar, depending on your intended OG. Just a suggestion though- ymmv.

elkdog said:

You may not want to exactly scale up the grain bill, as it could lead to a very sweet beer- maybe increase just the 2-row...

Click to expand...

Truth. Doubling everything wouldn't taste so hot IMO... I was more talking about the hop bill - my favorite part of his original recipe

hamilt22 said:

Truth. Doubling everything wouldn't taste so hot IMO... I was more talking about the hop bill - my favorite part of his original recipe

Click to expand...

Rock on.

how does white labs german ale/kolsch sound for this one?

I'm halfway through a 2nd 10g batch of this. I love this one so much I wouldn't change a thing from the original recipe. Not even the yeast.

Add me to the long list of people trying this one, I just pitched the yeast. I picked it for a homebrewer get together at the end of the month where we're doing a blind tasting. Judging by the reviews if it doesn't finish in the top third it's got to be my fault and not the recipe's...

Hops are still expensive! My LHBS only sells in 2 oz packs, $20+ for hops alone. I've have 1.25 oz of Simcoe and Amarillo left, have to find a use for them =)

Brewing this bad boy again tomorrow

Just uncapped my first Lake Walk Pale Ale, and it's the best beer I've ever made. I got my water troubles (beastly hard local water) in control, had a great brew session, and had this excellent recipe to make it all worthwhile. Thanks, Dude!

In conclusion, if you're reading this thread, wondering if this recipe will make you a great, hop-forward pale ale, wonder no more. Just brew it!

Brew day went great. Mashed at 154, had a great hot and cold break, the wort tasted excellent, and the OG was dead on 1.055.
Only problem was that I eneded up with exactly 5 gallons in the fermenter, I had calcuated 5.5, I am not sure what happened there.

Thought I would mention here this beer just won a gold medal in the Kabouter Kup. My slight changes were maris otter base malt, british crystal 45 for the crystal, and torrified wheat in place of the flaked wheat. Thanks for the recipe!

I finally got around to checking the gravity, and its sitting at a perfect 1.013.
It tasted quite excellent too, nice and hoppy! Definitely very very green, but i think this is going to turn out great again!

Quick question. I was going to toast the 2lbs of pale for this, however, I ordered it wrong and everything is mixed together and crushed. What effect would roasting 2lbs of the mix have? Would that possibly work or should I just proceed without toasting anything? Thanks for the help.

Dude said:

"Lake Walk Crossing" was the street we lived on when I first started brewing. This recipe was kind of the first recipe I ever started tinkering with to make a house pale ale. It has gone through many renditions and is finally getting up to where I really like it.

FWIW, I think my second batch of this (extract) really got the ball rolling on my brewing hobby. It turned out great, and up until recently I've been trying to replicate that extract version doing all grain. Getting there!

I'm really happy to see so much interest in it. You guys are making my head swell! Thanks!

Click to expand...

does anyone have the extract version recipe?

bueller bueller?

or has anyone tried this AG with MO instead of 2row? thoughts, opinions, reviews?

has anyone tried this AG with MO instead of 2row? thoughts, opinions, reviews?

Click to expand...

Check out KingBrianI's post above - a gold medal sounds like someone thought it was pretty fine!

Brewing this today!

Made this over the weekend with ten pounds marris otter (none roasted) I will follow up after it has fermented. (fermenting at 59 degrees) It smells good.

Two weeks in the keg and its still cloudy with hops floating around from the dry hop. I havent had the hops stay in suspension this long before, but I bet I will see the end of them in the next few pints.
On a side note, I will say that super irish moss is worthless. All of my beers are clear as day by week 3 in the keg, which is where this one is heading. I am going to try some whirlfloc next time.

But as for the beer itself, its tasting damn good

I...LOVE...this...beer....

Finally got it in a keg. Is it bad if I dryhopped it for a month or so?

A month seems like a bit long to dry hop. You might end up with some grassy flavors if you dry hop it that long. I would say 10 - 12 days should be suffice.
-Me

Oh it was in no way on purpose. More of "I haven't spent much time in the brewery lately and completely forgot about it". The same way my Saison stayed upstairs in my house through most of the warm Michigan summer. Like a 4 week primary at temps in the 90's+. We'll see how that tastes, it's next in line for the CO2 tank....

I've heard of people dry hopping right into the keg... I think with a month you should be fine. And come to think of it, aren't IPAs dry hopped for over a month normally?

Wow...What a beer! I would just like to say that i completely botched a batch of Dude's fine pale ale by using the wrong numbers for equipment and it came out FANTASTIC!

Because of lazyness i omitted the toasted malt and somehow came short on my numbers giving me a beer with OG of 1.062 and a FG of 1.011...do the math people! That gives you 6.66% ABV, what i call a Hop Demon Ale.

Talk about highly concentrated!

IBU's are around 68 and its more like an IPA. Further more i dry hopped with 1 oz of Cascade for about a month.

That just goes to show you that great recipes can be fugged up into great recipes. I will probably bring common sense with me to the next brew session and do it right eventually.

And now for some Pron:



Some fine lacing, more like webbing...

Dude said:

Simcoe and Amarillo together are just awesome. No kidding, they give it a tropical fruity taste and aroma. I have had so many people ask me if I put a little bit of pineapple juice in my beer. That is awesome.

Click to expand...

Somehow, even though I've looked at this recipe several times in consideration of brewing it, I never realized this was an all amarillo/simcoe beer. Amarillo is my favorite hop and Simcoe isn't far behind for exactly the reasons you mention above... I just love the aroma of these hops.

I think this is on my "2nd in line" to brew list now that I am getting back in the game after a year off.

So instead of toasting your own 2 row, what would be a good off the shelf substitute?

Would toasted Victory (25L) work?

shimbii said:

So instead of toasting your own 2 row, what would be a good off the shelf substitute?

Would toasted Victory (25L) work?

Click to expand...

Victory would work, but drop it down to a quarter pound or so if you go that route, and add the other 1.75 back in as 2-row. Really, toasting the malt is extremely easy to do with an oven and a baking pan, so I'd encourage you to do it if you can.

elkdog said:

Victory would work, but drop it down to a quarter pound or so if you go that route, and add the other 1.75 back in as 2-row. Really, toasting the malt is extremely easy to do with an oven and a baking pan, so I'd encourage you to do it if you can.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I have a barley crusher currently on the way so I think I will end up toasting my own. I was under the assumption that you need to toast the whole uncrushed grain... which whould have been a PITA w/o a mill but now that I have one, toasting my own will be very easy to do.