Coleman Cooler Mash Tun

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tmerritt411

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I think I found the easiest way to convert a Coleman cooler into a mash tun.

Steps:
1. Take the Spigot Assembly out of the cooler.
2. With a small die grinder, remove the "spigot/valve" part (where you would push the button to drain the cooler)
3. With a 1/8 NPT tap, cut threads into the outside (smaller) portion of modified spigot.
4. With a 3/8 NPT tap, cut threads into the inside (bigger) portion.
5. Thread your favorite pipe thread fittings/valves to the outside of your newly threaded bulkhead fitting. Choose wisely though, I'm not sure how many opportunities you get screwing and unscrewing metal fittings into the plastic.
6. Replace the newly modified fitting into the cooler. Fill with water to check for leaks. I didn't even need to put Teflon tape on the threads, the torque on the brass fittings into the plastic was good enough.
7. Attach your manifold, stainless braided hose or whatever your using as a filter to the inside of the fitting.

Cost: Nothing, although I already had the taps, cooler and fittings laying around the shop.
 
Easiest? Not by a long shot. Here's the easiest:

1. Put 5 gallon paint strainer bag in cooler.

That's strictly a mash tun. If you want to lauter with it, there is an additional step:

2. Place colander on top of cooler and place still-draining grain bag in colander.

Cost: The 5-gallon paint strainer bags are less than $5 for a 2-pack. I'm guessing everyone has a colander but if not, the cheap ones are less than $10 or you could just hold the bag the entire time or rig something else entirely.

Yours is a nicer setup and you'll probably get slightly better efficiency out of it but comparing easy I think I have the win.
 
I think I found the easiest way to convert a Coleman cooler into a mash tun.

Steps:
1. Take the Spigot Assembly out of the cooler.
2. With a small die grinder, remove the "spigot/valve" part (where you would push the button to drain the cooler)
3. With a 1/8 NPT tap, cut threads into the outside (smaller) portion of modified spigot.
4. With a 3/8 NPT tap, cut threads into the inside (bigger) portion.
5. Thread your favorite pipe thread fittings/valves to the outside of your newly threaded bulkhead fitting. Choose wisely though, I'm not sure how many opportunities you get screwing and unscrewing metal fittings into the plastic.
6. Replace the newly modified fitting into the cooler. Fill with water to check for leaks. I didn't even need to put Teflon tape on the threads, the torque on the brass fittings into the plastic was good enough.
7. Attach your manifold, stainless braided hose or whatever your using as a filter to the inside of the fitting.

Cost: Nothing, although I already had the taps, cooler and fittings laying around the shop.

Sorry that I'm bringing back this old post but I have same issue with my Coleman cooler, no kits fits it, The question here is if the plastic parts of the spigot and the original o-ring can handle hot liquids without any unwanted stuff getting to the beer (from the plastic parts and I don't think the o-ring is a silicone one).
10x
 
Sorry that I'm bringing back this old post but I have same issue with my Coleman cooler, no kits fits it, The question here is if the plastic parts of the spigot and the original o-ring can handle hot liquids without any unwanted stuff getting to the beer (from the plastic parts and I don't think the o-ring is a silicone one).
10x

I have converted both 48 and 70 qt. Coleman coolers like this...www.dennybrew.com . AAMOF, I'm on my way out to buy another 70 qt. to convert so I can sell it.
 
This is very simple.

1. Buy cooler kit, ball valve, and stainless braid from barginfittings.
2. Remove spigot. keep the rummer grommet from spigot.
3. install cooler kit
4. attach stainless braid on inside, and ball valve on the outside.

Voila a damn fine mash/lauter tun.
 
This is very simple.

1. Buy cooler kit, ball valve, and stainless braid from barginfittings.
2. Remove spigot. keep the rummer grommet from spigot.
3. install cooler kit
4. attach stainless braid on inside, and ball valve on the outside.

Voila a damn fine mash/lauter tun.

Thanks :mug:
 
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