Check my Wiring Diagram.

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Orangevango

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This is the diagram of my control panel that will control my HLT and MLT heating elements. The thermocouple will be in the HLT the whole time, I will run my boil on manual mode, so the input doesnt need to reflect the temperature of the boil does it? The switch on the far left is supposed to be a whole system kill switch. The ones on the right are supposed to allow me to switch between powering the HLT and the BK. I will never have both on. I was not sure how to wire the PID and SSR. What Ive got is the auber PID and SSR. Anyone know how to wire those up? Any flaws in my set up?

Thanks guys. (and gals)
 
Looks right to me. Only thing is you only have one control so both elements will switch on and off just the same. Guess you knew that already.
 
but if I use the switches on the right to break the circuit to the HLT then all of the juice will go to the BK and visa versa right?
 
#2. The SSR only has ONE output, you are depicting two it seems.
 
Do you have the PID and SSR and switches in hand now?

The PID should have (2) outputs to the SSR
The SSR should have ONE line in and ONE load out

If you want to feed (2) elements from on PID, you will have to split the line, but again, there is only ONE line (load) coming out of an SSR

This being said, you will have to feed another line to your switches on the right, from somewhere OTHER than the SSR.
 
What is the rating of the SSR? 40A?

What is the size of the elements?

Do you ever intend to use them both at the same time?

Be very careful taking electrical advice on an online forum!!!!
 
Well, I'm glad I didn't just build this thing and fire it up. It seemed wrong to me. The PID and SSR are from Auber.
  • 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (Relay Output) (SYL-2342)
  • 40 A SSR (RS1A40D40) = $19.00

I don't have the PID or SSR in hand right this minute, but they are at my house. I believe these are the same components you used, but I cant figure out how they are supposed to be wired based on your threads and the instruction booklet.

The elements are 5500 watt ULWD elements, I will never run both at the same time.

So, the SSR only controls one of the powered wires, the other one needs to be split after the switch on the left and run to the PID and the two switches on the right?
 
You bought the wrong PID... you dont want a relay output.

You need the SYL-2352 as listed in my parts list. You need it for the SSR output, NOT relay.
 
Well, I'm glad I didn't just build this thing and fire it up. It seemed wrong to me. The PID and SSR are from Auber.
  • 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (Relay Output) (SYL-2342)
  • 40 A SSR (RS1A40D40) = $19.00

I don't have the PID or SSR in hand right this minute, but they are at my house. I believe these are the same components you used, but I cant figure out how they are supposed to be wired based on your threads and the instruction booklet.

The elements are 5500 watt ULWD elements, I will never run both at the same time.

So, the SSR only controls one of the powered wires, the other one needs to be split after the switch on the left and run to the PID and the two switches on the right?

Yes, the SSR will ONLY control ONE leg, not both.

What you really need to incorporate is a distribution block from Automation Direct. This way you can easily run the power into the box and split it for all of your needs.
 
Damn, Ill get on that. I do this too much. Get all excited and buy stuff before making certain that it is the right thing.
 
I'm looking at the Instruction manual online right now, and now that I see that I bought the wrong PID it seems obvious how you should wire it. No wonder there weren't clear instructions about wiring a SSR to my PID, it isn't capable of it! I'm gonna order that PID, update my diagram and see if I can get this thing right.
 
Damn, Ill get on that. I do this too much. Get all excited and buy stuff before making certain that it is the right thing.

Yeah, that can happen. Get the SYL-2352 that I have listed in my parts list on BLING BLING HERMS CONVERSION and you will be AOK.

I would personally run the power in to your kill switch on the left, then run those two hots to a distribution block, along with the neutral and ground. From there you can run separate wires to all of your components as necessary. AutomationDirect.com is a great place to find high voltage/amp blocks for this application.

I am glad you PMed me... this thread (and your build) could have gone terribly wrong!
 
How are you configuring your thermocouple?

Is it going to be moveable, where you can use it in the HLT and boil?
 
Since I was making another order at auber, I decided to buy one of the thermocouple panel connectors and another thermocouple so that I can easily unplug the HLT thermocouple and plug in the BK thermocouple.My original plan was to leave the thermocouple in the HLT since the boil is going to be on manual mode anyway.
 
Since I was making another order at auber, I decided to buy one of the thermocouple panel connectors and another thermocouple so that I can easily unplug the HLT thermocouple and plug in the BK thermocouple.My original plan was to leave the thermocouple in the HLT since the boil is going to be on manual mode anyway.

But it is nice to double the PID as temp. monitor during the chill proess in the BK.
 
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