looking for a quality reciepie for Mr beer.

Williams 728
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DocHolidaze

DocHolidaze

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I have access to quality raw honey, i would like to be able to drink it 30 days from starting fermentation and i enjoy higher percentage beers, dark or light,is there any receipies that anybody want to suggest that would fit this situation
 
30 days!? That is a stretch for any high gravity beer. Your best bet is to try and find a honey Hefe recipe scaled down to 2.5 gallons.
 
Nothing....Higher gravity beers usually take longer than 30 days. My "NORMAL" gravity beers tend to take 8 weeks from grain to glass. Higher grav beers can take weeks to months longer.

For one thing bottle carbing ALONE is going to take a minimum 3 weeks, actually those big PETE bottles that come with a mr beer kit, it would be a minimum 1 month just to carb and hopefully condition the beer.


This cartoon by Lazy Llama should give you an idea.

chart.jpg


If you want high gravity beers, you have to be more realistic in your time table.
 
nice this is the stuff i need to hear, so to get a beer lets call it 8.0 what kind of time table am i looking at, and could i do straight mead in a mr beer?
 
DocHolidaze said:
nice this is the stuff i need to hear, so to get a beer lets call it 8.0 what kind of time table am i looking at, and could i do straight mead in a mr beer?
Click to expand...

Also, honey is slow to ferment. If you have a high concentration of honey, it will take longer to ferment than a regular malt beer.
 
Calder said:
Also, honey is slow to ferment. If you have a high concentration of honey, it will take longer to ferment than a regular malt beer.
Click to expand...

No, it really shouldn't. It might take longer for the flavors to even out (if it's a big beer), but honey usually ferments very quickly in wort.

I'm in agreement with the poster above - an 8% beer or braggot will take at least 2 months to be drinkable, but longer would be much better. A straight mead will take probably double that time.
 
Calder said:
Also, honey is slow to ferment. If you have a high concentration of honey, it will take longer to ferment than a regular malt beer.
Click to expand...

thank u so if im trying to speed things up i may want not use honey at all?
 
GuldTuborg said:
No, it really shouldn't. It might take longer for the flavors to even out (if it's a big beer), but honey usually ferments very quickly in wort.
Click to expand...

r u saying honey is faster? im hearing two different things now what to do?:mug:
 
A lot of people tend to state that honey ferments slowly, because meads used to ferment slowly back when most brewers/meadmakers didn't know as much about yeast and yeast nutrition. There's nothing about honey that makes for slow fermentation in wort; it's just sugar, basically, and ferments quickly. When making a straight mead (just honey, water, and yeast), though, honey makes for a high acid, (frequently) high gravity, low nutrient must, which of course takes a long time to ferment. Add honey to beer wort, where the acid is lower and the nutrients are higher, and there's no problem, just like there's no problem for modern meadmakers who use nutrient regimens, ensure proper yeast health, and sometimes even control for acidity. That's my take on the matter, anyway.
 
Doing mead in a Mr. Beer is no big deal, but that would take about a year.

Sometimes there's no substitute for time and patience.
 
DocHolidaze said:
thank u so if im trying to speed things up i may want not use honey at all?
Click to expand...

Ask yourself this: WHY would you like to use honey?

For flavor or for fermentation?

In case of flavor: add it at the end of your boiling. For fermentation: add it after cooling;
 
If you want more flavor from it, I'd also add at cooled wort, or even as the bulk of fermentation dies down. The less you heat honey, the more likely you are to retain some of the more delicate flavors. Of course, if you're adding a smallish amount of honey to an otherwise big beer, you're probably not going to taste the honey anyway. Add it when it's convenient.
 
Nembrionic said:
Ask yourself this: WHY would you like to use honey?

For flavor or for fermentation?

In case of flavor: add it at the end of your boiling. For fermentation: add it after cooling;
Click to expand...

reason i choose honey is i have a cheap fresh supply of it available to me, this is my first brew today i don't have preferences based on experience. all i know i want is highest gravity, least amount of time any suggestions for this?
 
Every post of yours in here is about two things, "Fast" and "High"

So it appears basically you just care about a cheap quick buzz over anything else??? Most of us on here care about flavor and quality over alcoholic content, and are willing to be patient to achieve it. If you want quick and strong, then just go by a couple 40's of malt liquor and call it a day.

We keep telling you high gravity and quick turnover don't go together.

If you really want to make good beer, we'll help you, if all you want is hooch, then maybe you should look elsewhere.

If you want to learn about making great beer, start by reading this.... How To Brew. And get an understanding about ingredients and the process and what works and what doesn't....

We're not making koolaid, this stuff takes time.
 
Revvy said:
Every post of yours in here is about two things, "Fast" and "High"
So it appears basically you just care about a cheap quick buzz over anything else??? Most of us on here care about flavor and quality over alcoholic content, and are willing to be patient to achieve it. If you want quick and strong, then just go by a couple 40's of malt liquor and call it a day.
We keep telling you high gravity and quick turnover don't go together.
If you really want to make good beer, we'll help you, if all you want is hooch, then maybe you should look elsewhere.
If you want to learn about making great beer, start by reading this.... How To Brew. And get an understanding about ingredients and the process and what works and what doesn't....
We're not making koolaid, this stuff takes time.
Click to expand...

u must be the welcoming committee that is spoken so highly of, or your some experienced brewer that gets his kicks by looking down on new guys for asking questions that, surprise.... they want to know about, either way im more than happy to be your stepping stone to a better self image, i just want a recipe or suggestions that would yield most alcohol percentage in the least amount of time i don't want "hooch" as u put it, i want to be able to use fresh quality ingredients of my choosing and by the end of summer of ingredients of my own garden, since this is my first round at brewing, im going with what i know and i know i like high gravity and i know how many gallons im capable of producing so to obtain a recipe that gives me the highest gravity in around 30 days is what i know i want. Is it that disrespectful to the home brewers community to seek out what i want? if it is i apologize, but i don't believe anyone should be looked down upon because they seek knowledge
 
Schramm's "Hefty Braggot" might be just what you're looking for. I'd still give it at least 2 months to be drinkable, and I'd bet a year of aging would turn it into something very nice. I'd also recommend using an ale yeast with this recipe. It's around the interwebz, if you search.
 
GuldTuborg said:
Schramm's "Hefty Braggot" might be just what you're looking for. I'd still give it at least 2 months to be drinkable, and I'd bet a year of aging would turn it into something very nice. I'd also recommend using an ale yeast with this recipe. It's around the interwebz, if you search.
Click to expand...

thank u i was just looking into braggorts:mug:
 
DocHolidaze said:
u must be the welcoming committee that is spoken so highly of, or your some experienced brewer that gets his kicks by looking down on new guys for asking questions that, surprise.... they want to know about, either way im more than happy to be your stepping stone to a better self image, i just want a recipe or suggestions that would yield most alcohol percentage in the least amount of time i don't want "hooch" as u put it, i want to be able to use fresh quality ingredients of my choosing and by the end of summer of ingredients of my own garden, since this is my first round at brewing, im going with what i know and i know i like high gravity and i know how many gallons im capable of producing so to obtain a recipe that gives me the highest gravity in around 30 days is what i know i want. Is it that disrespectful to the home brewers community to seek out what i want? if it is i apologize, but i don't believe anyone should be looked down upon because they seek knowledge
Click to expand...



He's not slamming you, in fact he's one of the most helpful people on these forums. He's simply trying to tell you that if you want a high ABV beer that doesn't taste like nuclear horse piss you need to let it age. If you want something that you can drink relatively fast (still six weeks if you're bottle conditioning) look at a wheat based beer. If you want to brew a big beer with big flavors, it takes time for everything to meld. Read the How to Brew links that Revvy gave you, it'll tell you everything you need to know to get started.
 
veritas524 said:
If you want something that you can drink relatively fast (still six weeks if you're bottle conditioning) look at a wheat based beer.
Click to expand...

You can get a decent Pale Ale in the glass in 4 weeks:

- 2 weeks Primary.
- 2 weeks in bottle at 70+F

That's way too quick for me as I like to let them clear in the fermenter.

However, the higher the abv, the longer it will take to be balanced and refreshing.

A big problem we have is that we really don't know what he wants to brew. All we have is he wants to use a lot of honey, and to me that means it is going to take a while, even if I could think of a decent beer style with lots of honey.
 
Calder said:
You can get a decent Pale Ale in the glass in 4 weeks:

- 2 weeks Primary.
- 2 weeks in bottle at 70+F

That's way too quick for me as I like to let them clear in the fermenter.

However, the higher the abv, the longer it will take to be balanced and refreshing.

A big problem we have is that we really don't know what he wants to brew. All we have is he wants to use a lot of honey, and to me that means it is going to take a while, even if I could think of a decent beer style with lots of honey.
Click to expand...

i dont have to use honey its what readiley available to me if there is somthing that is more suiting to my needs than honey i will use it
 
Last time I made my Imperial IPA (8.4%), I had it on tap 3 weeks after I brewed it. It was incredible.

As others have said, 30 days is unreasonable because you're bottle conditioning and not force carbing with co2, but high gravity with a quick turn-around, an Imperial IPA might be your best bet.
 
turkeyjerky214 said:
Last time I made my Imperial IPA (8.4%), I had it on tap 3 weeks after I brewed it. It was incredible.

As others have said, 30 days is unreasonable because you're bottle conditioning and not force carbing with co2, but high gravity with a quick turn-around, an Imperial IPA might be your best bet.
Click to expand...

i would like to know more about this imperial ipa if u got any info:mug:
 
I'm making a bipa 1.132 to 1.0
19 16 days primary in a frikin beer machine...it will be ready to drink extract to glass in just 6 weeks....and my numbers are right .yea I had to use wlp099 first and a 2nd pitch of champaign yeast at 8 days but its attenuating perfectly
 
I think what Revvy is picking up on is this central point:
Do you want good beer, or do you want high alcohol hooch?
If you want good beer it will take longer to ferment and take longer to condition. Much more than 30 days.
If you want high alcohol hooch and don't care about the taste, you can dump a ton of sugar into a Mr. Beer beer kit and get high alcohol junk in a short period of time.
Which direction are you heading, DocHolidaze?
 
DocHolidaze said:
i dont have to use honey its what readiley available to me if there is somthing that is more suiting to my needs than honey i will use it
Click to expand...

OK, here goes. A 2 gallon batch. for a different volume, just change the ingredients by the same amount.

6 ozs Crystal 60. Steep in 160 F water for 30 minutes.
3 lbs of Pale LME (or light, extra light, golden, or other light liquid extract). Add to water after removing steeping grains.
Alternative to 3 lbs LME is to use 2.5 lbs DME (dried malt extract).
When water starts boiling add some bittering hops. You will need about 4 AAs of any hops. That is, if the AAs of a hop is 12, you will need a third of an ounce. If the AAs are 4, you will need an ounce.
You will want to boil this for 60 minutes total after adding the hops.
With 15 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some flavor hops. About half an ounce.
At 5 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some aroma hops. About half an ounce.

Once boiling is complete, cool as quickly as possible.

What hops to use? Cascade for a traditional American Pale Ale. Use Goldings or Fuggles for an English Pale Ale. Use any hops you want, these are suggestions (Cascades will get you something similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale).

If you want to add some simple sugars (honey), do not go above half a pound. It will increase the alcohol by a little over 1%, and will nicely dry it out.

What yeast. For an American style ale, S-05. For an English style ale, S-04, or Nottingham. Try and keep fermentation temperatures between 60 and 70 F.

Without the honey, this will give you a beer of about 5.5%. Adding half a pound of honey will get you to 6.5%. Adding more simple sugar will just thin it out make it hot tasting with alcohol.

Leave in primary for 2 weeks, and you should be able to bottle at that time. Keep bottles above 70F to help carbonation ... then drink.

Hope this is what you were looking for. For a quick turn-around, it is very important to watch temperatures. Probably best to keep ferment temps around 65 (but never over 70 F .... otherwise you will get a lot of esters and high alcohols).
 
Calder said:
OK, here goes. A 2 gallon batch. for a different volume, just change the ingredients by the same amount.

6 ozs Crystal 60. Steep in 160 F water for 30 minutes.
3 lbs of Pale LME (or light, extra light, golden, or other light liquid extract). Add to water after removing steeping grains.
Alternative to 3 lbs LME is to use 2.5 lbs DME (dried malt extract).
When water starts boiling add some bittering hops. You will need about 4 AAs of any hops. That is, if the AAs of a hop is 12, you will need a third of an ounce. If the AAs are 4, you will need an ounce.
You will want to boil this for 60 minutes total after adding the hops.
With 15 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some flavor hops. About half an ounce.
At 5 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some aroma hops. About half an ounce.

Once boiling is complete, cool as quickly as possible.

What hops to use? Cascade for a traditional American Pale Ale. Use Goldings or Fuggles for an English Pale Ale. Use any hops you want, these are suggestions (Cascades will get you something similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale).

If you want to add some simple sugars (honey), do not go above half a pound. It will increase the alcohol by a little over 1%, and will nicely dry it out.

What yeast. For an American style ale, S-05. For an English style ale, S-04, or Nottingham. Try and keep fermentation temperatures between 60 and 70 F.

Without the honey, this will give you a beer of about 5.5%. Adding half a pound of honey will get you to 6.5%. Adding more simple sugar will just thin it out make it hot tasting with alcohol.

Leave in primary for 2 weeks, and you should be able to bottle at that time. Keep bottles above 70F to help carbonation ... then drink.

Hope this is what you were looking for. For a quick turn-around, it is very important to watch temperatures. Probably best to keep ferment temps around 65 (but never over 70 F .... otherwise you will get a lot of esters and high alcohols).
Click to expand...

hell yeah this sounds badass, sierra nevada is one of my favorite ales so this seems to fit perfect for what im looking for, i can defintly work with a 6.5% good looking out man u have been much help:mug:
 
pdxal said:
I think what Revvy is picking up on is this central point:
Do you want good beer, or do you want high alcohol hooch?
If you want good beer it will take longer to ferment and take longer to condition. Much more than 30 days.
If you want high alcohol hooch and don't care about the taste, you can dump a ton of sugar into a Mr. Beer beer kit and get high alcohol junk in a short period of time.
Which direction are you heading, DocHolidaze?
Click to expand...

im heading the direction calder has shown me:mug:
 

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