Old Dogs New Tricks

Well several brews have now come and gone. I always use canned kits and I use a simple and fast method. I have made a couple of changes and the results are terrific. I do not know if many of you have tried VB (Victoria Bitter) I don't know why they call it that as it is not that bitter, quite a refreshing Australian Ale/Lager about 4.7%ABV.

Well using my proven method and the improvement I gained from this forum I can just about match it.

I brewed a Coles "Farmland" draught
Method



Bring 2 litres of water to boil heating mix at the same time (Washed can first)

Empty 1 Kg Dextrose in Fermenter and then the wort mix.

Pour on the boiling water and then a further 22 litres of tap water. (Sydney water is 2nd to none)

Add supplied yeast and place fish heater in brew and close the lid.

Normaly I would have checked the hydrometer several times and bottle when fermented.

New Trick

I let it stand for 12 days and transfer to the Secondary for 2 weeks.

I then bottle using a measure and sugar as I always have done.

New Trick

I have adopted use of a stick and peel label on the cap which cuts down the bottle cleaning time.

The finished product, I guess you will never know but even though my beer was always judged good even I can now tell the difference.

I still get a light dusting of yeast that I guess are starved of sugar. But I can decant into a jug. It is only the last pour that will lose its crystal finish.

I had another idea (Wish I did'nt) I thought of pouring a small quantity of wax in the cap lid and after bottling store upside down. Then after they have conditioned say in 3-4 weeks place each bottle down on its cap on a hot plate to melt the wax. Theory: When the wax melts it combines with the dusting of yeast and then solidifies. Result Clean beer.

I will have to try it at least once. I just remembered that other idea I had of using a wine bladder as a keg. Worked perfectly result to much trouble sanitising and filling etc. Co2 was great, Taste good, Bladder stood the preassure (Had me a bit concerned, the wife would kill me if it split).

Actually I have bought a 5 litre water container with a tap made of solid walled plastic. I will experiment with that. Plan to use a ordinary bike pump to replace lost pressure when dispensed. Reason: at a party 5 litres will not last long and the beer would have normal Co2 priming over the conditioning period. This idea I think does have merit. I will fit a bike valve to the cap.


So in conclusion You can use a wine bladder as a keg and prime as it is filled, but it is too much trouble. I will stick with my 720ml bottle kegs for my main production.

Hmm! can't hear the applause. Who said I have too much time on my hands

Terry

Im so confused...

Bitters cover a wide range. Sounds like VB is an ordinary or special bitter, which can be as low as 20 IBU.

Your fermentation "method" is solid with one exception: the aquarium heater. Unless you're fermenting the beer in a particularly cold place, a heater is probably unnecessary (and likely a detriment).

Terry08 said:

Theory: When the wax melts it combines with the dusting of yeast and then solidifies. Result Clean beer.

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Nope. As soon as the wax melts, it will float to the top of the bottle. Result: wax floating in your beer (and possibly ruined head retention due to the oily nature of the wax).

Yuri_Rage said:

Nope. As soon as the wax melts, it will float to the top of the bottle. Result: wax floating in your beer (and possibly ruined head retention due to the oily nature of the wax).

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Any hippy or child of hippies knows this....

Why not just pour until you see yeast approaching the mouth of the bottle, then stop? It's only the last 1/2 ounce or so that you're leaving behind, small price for clear beer.

Terry. It's great that you make beer that you are satisfied with using such simple methods. Keep on doing it. For the majority of us, beer might be the ultimate goal, but it's the science, experimentation, and equipment among other things that are a big factor in how we do things. I could definately make beer using your method, and it might be great, but I like my way and I enjoy buying all the cool toys.

david_42 said:

Bitters cover a wide range. Sounds like VB is an ordinary or special bitter, which can be as low as 20 IBU.

Click to expand...

Yeah, it's just a naming thing. One important distinction though, Australian 'bitters' are lagers.

I've never had VB, I'd love to give it a try. It's the most popular beer in Australia, correct? Had a couple Aussie friends who were always raving about VB and Carlton.

And no one drinks Fosters in Australia right? I asked a few of them about it and they said they had never heard of it.

Ok I never thought of that, Hot Melt how about that. I cannot help myself.
No one made comment about the heavy plastic 5 Litre idea.

I will bow to the fact that for most of you beer brewing is a art and a science and you strive to perfect your art. Me well look at my signature. I am after a really good beer that I can afford.

I have always played catch up, buying a house and bringing up two boys. So cheap beer is a bonus especially in a warm climate like Oz.

It is possible to get Fosters but it is not popular. I stated VB as it may be well known. I rather like Tooheys Draught. Australian beers are generally Lager types no matter their name and brewed and consumed for refreshment.

If ever I win the lottery I will look one of you up and try what do you call it "Real Beer" It will have to be just a tad above freezing, Winter or Summer Light or Dark types.

AAAhhhh! Beer we are truely blessed

Terry

I've heard Fosters in the green can is the same as VB.

I tried it, wasn't my cup of tea. Though I had a roommate(air force guy) that raved about it and how he missed it from australia until he found the green can fosters.

Fosters Special Bitter - Carlton & United Breweries, Ltd. - BeerAdvocate