Anybody use 3/4" ID tubing on their Chugger center inlet?

Like the title says...it seems that everyone is using an adaptor to downsize the 3/4" center inlet on their chuggers to work with 1/2" ID hose. Does anyone use 3/4" ID hose, it seems like that is how the design was intended?

I have the march ac-3b-md and yes, I use 3/4"id hose on the pump inlet with no reducer (and matching 3/4" outlet on the pot)

You might "get by" with using 1/2" hose on the inlet, but the performance is reduced.

Where did you get the 3/4" hose? I think that finding a cheap source of 3/4" is the main reason a lot of people go with 1/2"

Interesting. I'm in the process of redoing my plumbing and have been asking myself the same question. I've been eyeing the 3/4" silicone tubing at U.S. Plastics -- here. If anyone knows of a better/cheaper source, I'd be curious.

McMaster Carr Here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=m1gz85

You actually can order it in off sizes (I got 3' of both the 3/4" and 1" ID crush resistant tubing). That US Plastics is only available in 50' lots. Cheaper per foot? Yes! Might want to do a group buy though...

Or got for 10' of the reinforced silicon (that S#*t is sexy) at 10' for the minimum and split it.

Thanks guys...it really seemed weird how many people were spending more money on the center inlet pump and then attaching undersized tubing. Especially if the reason is the cost of the tubing, it seems their logic is contradictory.

Bensiff said:

Thanks guys...it really seemed weird how many people were spending more money on the center inlet pump and then attaching undersized tubing. Especially if the reason is the cost of the tubing, it seems their logic is contradictory.

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There are gains to a center inlet pump, even if you immediately restrict to 1/2" ID. For a great thread on this for March pumps, see here -- especially posts 1 and 24.

I'm all for the 3/4" tubing on the inlet, though. May as well milk that baby for all she's worth!

tophmck said:

There are gains to a center inlet pump, even if you immediately restrict to 1/2" ID. For a great thread on this for March pumps, see here -- especially posts 1 and 24.

I'm all for the 3/4" tubing on the inlet, though. May as well milk that baby for all she's worth!

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I'm going to be going from a 1.5" butterfly to the 3/4" so I know I really don't want to restrict it any more than needed. Thanks for the link I'll check it out.

Am I missing something or wouldn't this stuff work for the 3/4 tubing? The opaque and semi-clear 3/4 ID 7/8 OD in this style hose is $2.83 per ft. With a minimum of 2 ft.
It's only rated 3psi at 72, but this is for the 3/4 feed side of the pump only. Is there a danger of collapse? Picked up a stainless 3/4 center inlet head that will go on the boil kettle pump for whirlpool and transfer I could get away with a 2ft section of this. The opaque red would be pretty slick, as well as a visual warning. lol.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-high-temperature-silicone-rubber-tubing


@Bensiff
I don't think it's really the cost of the tubing. It's the retro fit costs for pretty much any HB system out there. Everything in the HB world is made with 1/2 NPT and 1/2 valves. So why spring for the 3/4 tubing when the outlet on all your vessels is 1/2 anyway. They are just grabbing the center inlet for reduced cav, easier priming/plumbing.
Me, I am considering having my 20 gal boil port retrofitted for 1.5 sani. I already have some 1.5 butterfly valves so my entry cost is just the tubing and the ferrule welding.

People are using far more restrictive parts in the total flow path than the 1/2" ID of typical silicone tubing. There is absolutely nothing wrong with feeding a chugger with 1/2" ID tubing as long as all the other parts provide a wide open bore. Hint... look at my website.

The center inlet's slightly reduced chance of cavatation comes from one less 90 degree bend at the inlet of the head and not because of the 3/4" inlet.



Note: the 2.83/ft tubing in question from mcmaster is only 1/16" wall thickness. No good.

You'd have to use 3/4" tubing, 3/4" valves, 3/4" dip tubes...everything upstream from the pumps.

Man, that's a lot of 3/4" hardware. I think I'll stick with 1/2" stuff and use the reducer.

Right on. What I'm preaching is to use 1/2" hardware but avoid silly restrictive parts like 1/2" hose barbs that are less than 3/8" ID. FYI, the interior bore of the center inlet is actually only .55" anyway.

Bobby_M said:

Right on. What I'm preaching is to use 1/2" hardware but avoid silly restrictive parts like 1/2" hose barbs that are less than 3/8" ID. FYI, the interior bore of the center inlet is actually only .55" anyway.

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Yeah, there is some poorly made SS out there. I have a barb or two that has a ridiculous ID.