So I'm about to build my IC and was looking at copper tube. Now I have a question, does anyone know what the difference between type L and M copper tube, and is there one that would be better for the chiller?
Type of copper for my IC
- Thread starter JoshuaWhite5522
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From what I found on Widipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water
the type refers only to the thickness of the wall, and it's a difference in the hundredths of an inch. So I would say that it probably isn't going to make that much of a difference since there's no pressure being built up in a chiller.
I just started brewing yesterday, but I made a chiller earlier this week after seeing one in the homebrew store for $75. I recognized all the parts as easily attainable at Home Depot, and after a $22 trip there (including tax) and about 15 minutes, I had a chiller of my own, comparable to the one in the store. I used the 10' length and worried about that a bit, until I saw that there was only about 2 gallons of brew left after boiling my first batch (I started with 3 gals). The chiller worked great, bringing the temp from boiling down to about 100 in about 10 minutes tops. Then I got impatient and went ahead and poured it into the fermenter, added cold water to the 5 gal mark and did an ice water bath. I should have kept cooling it another 5 minutes with the chiller and it would have probably done what took another hour otherwise to finish cooling it.
Anyway, now that I've rambled, I don't think it will matter for a chiller. Good luck!
the type refers only to the thickness of the wall, and it's a difference in the hundredths of an inch. So I would say that it probably isn't going to make that much of a difference since there's no pressure being built up in a chiller.
I just started brewing yesterday, but I made a chiller earlier this week after seeing one in the homebrew store for $75. I recognized all the parts as easily attainable at Home Depot, and after a $22 trip there (including tax) and about 15 minutes, I had a chiller of my own, comparable to the one in the store. I used the 10' length and worried about that a bit, until I saw that there was only about 2 gallons of brew left after boiling my first batch (I started with 3 gals). The chiller worked great, bringing the temp from boiling down to about 100 in about 10 minutes tops. Then I got impatient and went ahead and poured it into the fermenter, added cold water to the 5 gal mark and did an ice water bath. I should have kept cooling it another 5 minutes with the chiller and it would have probably done what took another hour otherwise to finish cooling it.
Anyway, now that I've rambled, I don't think it will matter for a chiller. Good luck!
Everything you need to know about building one of these can be found in Bobby M's Thread.
That being said I believe that the thinner wall of refrigeration tubing would benefit you the most for heat transfer. Like this tubing at coppertubingsales.com.
That being said I believe that the thinner wall of refrigeration tubing would benefit you the most for heat transfer. Like this tubing at coppertubingsales.com.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Type L has thicker walls than M (0.040" vs 0.028" for 1/2" copper). Either one will work fine.
Indian_villager
Well-Known Member
The thinner the wall the easier to kink. But remember the thinner the wall the better the heat transfer.
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