Propane Plumbing for brew rig

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johnnyo1977

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First off I would like to say thank you to SouthernYankee for the brew rig that i am making.

Down to the business at hand. "Propane Plumbing"

I Got my Banjo burners in the mail yesterday. they are huge and awesome. I have seen how some are installed and that is fine but there is a nagging question in the back of my head. wondering what else can be used to control the flow of gas to each burner.

Has any one used 1 regulator per burner?
Or
Has any one used the valves from a gas grill to control each burner?

How well does the gas shut off valve work to control the flow of gas?

Could the parts from a old gas range be used to control the flow?

Thanks for everyones help
 
I'm using a regulator in to my gas beam, then a shutoff ball valve at each burner, which goes in to a 1/2" black iron "T" - One end of the T goes to a needle valve to reduce pressure to the pilot light, and the other end connects to an electrically operated Asco fuel gas valve, then through a bell reducer to a needle valve to control flow to the burner itself. I guess with fuel gas you're supposed to use bell reducers instead of hex bushings, but I'm using a hex bushing to reduce 1/2" to 1/8" NPT for my pilot needle valve. Looks like this currently:

a4de5a47b3a49279788d805c9b89dc01.jpg


EDIT: I guess it would be helpful if I responded to your questions :)

Has any one used 1 regulator per burner?
Or
Has any one used the valves from a gas grill to control each burner?


I didn't. A regulator's job is to maintain constant downstream pressure with variable upstream pressure. Since upstream remains constant from my regulator, I'm using needle valves. I'd imagine that the valves in a gas grill are needle valves due to their exceptional fine flow control.

How well does the gas shut off valve work to control the flow of gas?

Ball valves don't regulate gas flow very well for fine control... my pilot needle valve drops pressure from ~15psi to less than 1 psi. That would be a challenge with a ball valve.

Could the parts from a old gas range be used to control the flow?

Perhaps, but I've never looked at what parts are in them. :)

Good luck! :mug:
 
That is a nice setup for you burner. I am looking for a little more low tech though.

I stopped to check a gas grill on the way home that was in the trash. it looks like it does the air fuel mixture at the valve. if that is the case would i have to make as new air valve for the back of the burner so no extra air can get in?
 
First off I would like to say thank you to SouthernYankee for the brew rig that i am making.

Thanks johnyo1977 for the plug!

I don't know, but you could buy some gas needle valves which control the flame even greater (more precise) then the gas ball valves.

They do cost more however.

The gas valves I am using cost 6.97 a piece from home depot. The work very well and once closed dont let any propane by them.
But then again you would need to make a propane manifold if you just wanted to run one regulator.

I just purchased the 30 psi reg.
http://www.shop.5-0bbq.com/36-High-Pressure-Hose-and-30-PSI-Regulator-5HPR-30.htm?categoryId=-1

This one reg will be used to run the two burners I have..
 
Thanks. Just did the first brew on it last weekend. System worked great. Had a little operator error once or twice, but nothing that frequent brewing can't fix.
 
I second SouthernYankee....this is a great looking stand indeed. WillWyn, if I may ask a question, what type of pump are you using?
 
Thanks. The pump is a March pump. I don't recall the model off the top of my head, but it is quite an old one, given to me by a home brewer that was getting rid of his equipment.
 
I am all in favor that is a nice rig you have there. I like the needle valves that you used. that is what i am looking for. I plumbed my system today and test fired it with 5 gallons of water it is sweet. but i don't like the ball valves to control the flame. I will be buying the type WillWyn has tomorrow. I for got my camera to photo the work i did today. will talk pics this week. I have started a thread on my build incase any one would like to look at what i used and what it looks like. I tack welded my black pipe to the inside lower rail of my rig instead of using clamps.
 
Here's my setup. 20 psi regulator off the tank. 1/2 inch black pipe to T to needle valve to copper tubing to burner. Needle valve works great. Got it at http://bayouclassicdepot.com/nv108p_propane_burner_part.htm.htm

Here's a pic.
http://picasaweb.google.com/andy.thorntonrivergrille.com/BeerNBrewing?pli=1&gsessionid=4CxuSn-JD6EvC6xkHysZKg#5453685383770698818

I viewed your Picasa album and I have something similar going on. I am curious about:

1. What is the diameter of the copper tubing you used (I am planning on using 3/8" soft copper)

2. Do you have issues with delivering an adequate amount of propane to all 3 burners from your regulator (I plan on using the 30 psi reg from the banjo burner)

3. Did you use Flare or Compression?

4. Were you able to source everything from depot/lowes/ace?

Thanks in advance. I look fwd to having my rig finished for the weekendbrew session.
 
I used 3/8" flex copper with needle valves and a 30psi regulator. One tank, one regulator, 3 HUGE flames. I tried compression, but it always leaked which is a very very bad thing. Flare unions wont leak on you, and the fact that you use flex copper, even the poorest flaring technique results in a leak free seal. Check out my profile for my rig. I definitely recommend building a control panel.
 
OK, I'm going flare, purchased equipment today. I am having an issue finding the elbows like willy used. I would like to keep everything as streamline and minimal as possible the first time around so I'm pretty keen on following his lead with his gas. nice and clean

Does anyone have any idea where to source a gas valve such as the one Willy used? I assume they are needle valves, and I would love to have that kind of control on the burners.

On another note, banjo burner is sending me a new big boy to make up for their error in the cast which I purchased. Very quick and painless customer service so far.
 
I used compression and flare fittings equally, just to find out about this "leak" thing. YMMV, but for me, niether of them leaked at all. I used a spray bottle of soapy water to find out. I only had to wrench tighten less than half a turn after hand tightening, for both types of fittings.

Nanobru, where did you get your needle valves?
 
Believe it or not at the flea market. But I have seen them at OSH, and if you go to lowes, they have a bunch of catalogs in the bbq department you can go through that have wicked burners, valves etc. The leaking I experienced was when I attempted to build a manifold so I can run one tank. Tighten one compression nut, and another would eventually loosen up. If you just use one compression fitting, youd be fine. Building a manifold? probably not. If your like me and use the german torque system (goodntight), youll easily overtighten the compression fitting, and it will leak. Compression fittings are also not reusable. This can be a hindrance when constantly upgrading your rig. I used all flare fittings for gas and wort/water piping/manifolds. When I upgrade my rig, I cut out the obsolete section and insert the new pieces via Flare or sweat.
 
If this burner is made for low pressure propane than your only control option is a pin valve. If it has a very small orifice and is made for running 20 PSI, than a variable regulator is the best option (but pricey). With a high pressure system you can also run it with a fixed regulator and do fine controls with a pin valve.

You can find needle valves at HD or your local hardware store. At HD they have them in the plumbing section with small brass fittings (the little bins where you would find barb fittings for hoses).
 
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