"Cooler" tun size for AG brewing

I'm considering making the leap to AG. To circumvent searching (any more) through miscellaneous bits of info about AG brewing, I'd like to pose the following question:

What size coolers and brew pot are required (or suggested) for a three-tier system to make 5 gallon AG batches? I don't want to make more than 5 gals at a time and I don't want to spend the extra money on burners and pots at all three levels. I'm thinking along the lines of what Born Brewing has https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/data/1/1/4/2/9/brewery.JPG

i'm the same. i only do 5 g batches, but just want the option to do 10 if i like, or if a brew bud wants to have a brew-in and split the 10 g.

saying that, i'd go with a 10 gallon Rubbermaid/Igloo cooler. some use the rectangular larger coolers, but i prefer the cylindrical type. the 10 g cooler will allow you to brew higher gravity 5 gallon batches. w/ mash water and grains, 13-15 lbs is a pretty tight fit.

for a brew kettle, i'd say no less than 8-10 gallon kettle. you'll be mashing and sparging to get, say 6-6.5 gallons to boil down to 5, so plenty of room for a nice, vigorous boil is needed. the most you'llspend i on the boil kettle. after that, you can really save money on equipment, and still brew excellent beers.

keep us posted.

What DRB said. I have a 9g rectangular cooler that I graduated to from a 5g round cooler. The extra space is really necessary. In retrospect, I did like the round configuration better than rectangular as I seem to get pockets of different temperatures moreso in the rectangular cooler, but I'm still making beer.

I have a 30qt/7.5g pot which I thought would be perfect, but now I consider just barely adequate. I usually start with 7g which leaves very little room and I have to monitor the hot break very very closely. Once I get through it, however, I'm fine.

BeeGee said:

I have a 30qt/7.5g pot which I thought would be perfect, but now I consider just barely adequate. I usually start with 7g which leaves very little room and I have to monitor the hot break very very closely.

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So it looks like I should be in search of a brew pot of at least 8gal capacity, but closer to the 10gal DRB suggested.

Two other related questions: Should I be overly concerned about cooler-tuns being pristine inside? I'm wondering if a used one with minor abrasions would be acceptable. Or is bacteria a concern even at this stage? Secondly, I bought a pro-grade 6gal SS pot (with a three layer bottom) for my extract batches because I didn't want to worry about scorching. Should I do the same for the larger AG brew pot, or would any decent SS pot do? I use an outdoor burner good for 185k btu wide open.

orfy said:

Take a look at my set up. I reckon it cost me less than £70 to put together using some bits I had lying around.

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That include the guard dogs?

Thanks, guys.
Andy

DrewsBrews said:

Two other related questions: Should I be overly concerned about cooler-tuns being pristine inside? I'm wondering if a used one with minor abrasions would be acceptable. Or is bacteria a concern even at this stage? Secondly, I bought a pro-grade 6gal SS pot (with a three layer bottom) for my extract batches because I didn't want to worry about scorching. Should I do the same for the larger AG brew pot, or would any decent SS pot do? I use an outdoor burner good for 185k btu wide open.

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i'd splurge for the new cooler. you never know what's been in a used cooler and scratches can harbor nasties. even though a good cleaning might be okay, i'd be on the safe side.

no need for the extra layed bottom kettle. just a nice, simpple SS kettle will do.

DrewsBrews said:

Should I be overly concerned about cooler-tuns being pristine inside? I'm wondering if a used one with minor abrasions would be acceptable. Or is bacteria a concern even at this stage? Secondly, I bought a pro-grade 6gal SS pot (with a three layer bottom) for my extract batches because I didn't want to worry about scorching. Should I do the same for the larger AG brew pot, or would any decent SS pot do?

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Your cooler needs to be clean, but certainly not pristine...after all, the wort is gonna get boiled anyway, and even mash temps are gonna be pretty tough on bacteria.

As for a brew pot, if you're gonna go up to ten gallons, then why not move on up to a keggle. If you're gonna drop $150 anyway, why not drop another $100 and not have to worry about whether it's cheap SS or not, or big enough or not.

El Pistolero said:

If you're gonna drop $150 anyway, why not drop another $100 and not have to worry about whether it's cheap SS or not, or big enough or not.

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Much as I'd like to, the more expensive toys I add to this hobby, the more my wife will start eyeballing expensive trinkets she's desiring. Spending begets more spending - you get the idea. She just dropped down to working two days a week (from three) and we've got a three-year-old I'd like help put through college some day...

Andy

DrewsBrews said:

Much as I'd like to, the more expensive toys I add to this hobby, the more my wife will start eyeballing expensive trinkets she's desiring. Spending begets more spending - you get the idea. She just dropped down to working two days a week (from three) and we've got a three-year-old I'd like help put through college some day...

Andy

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more power to ya bro.

DrewsBrews said:

Much as I'd like to, the more expensive toys I add to this hobby, the more my wife will start eyeballing expensive trinkets she's desiring. Spending begets more spending - you get the idea. She just dropped down to working two days a week (from three) and we've got a three-year-old I'd like help put through college some day...

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I hear ya...all my wife knows is that the keggle cost $99 plus $20 shipping. I didn't tell her about the other $150 of fittings that arrived the next day. And the kids are just gonna have to get scholarships.

I came into a friend's AG brewing session mid-way recently and he was just entering the sparging stage... I think. I could see into the mid-level cooler and it looked like he had the grain (and water) in there and was sprinkling hot water over it. So I'm curious - what goes into the top container of the three-tier system? Is it just full of hot water? Are the contents different at each level if you're using converted kegs and burners?

I use a 50qt colman extreem cooler with a coverted keg (if you do this route GET THE HOP STOPPER! from dennis aka tnlandsailor). I got the cooler on a after labor day sale for $6 so it is nice, follow crusenews' instructions for el'cheapo mash tun. I have mashed 28 lbs of grain with out trouble( I do 10 gal batches...5 for bottle 5 for keg). I use a 30qt stock pot to heat water for striking and sparging so it is easier. Just get more than one bottle of propane, YOU WILL RUN OUIck in the middle of a boil.hehehe

DrewsBrews said:

I came into a friend's AG brewing session mid-way recently and he was just entering the sparging stage... I think. I could see into the mid-level cooler and it looked like he had the grain (and water) in there and was sprinkling hot water over it. So I'm curious - what goes into the top container of the three-tier system? Is it just full of hot water? Are the contents different at each level if you're using converted kegs and burners?

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the top kettle is a Hot Liquor Tank (HLT). i just use mine to heat my sparge water. once the mash has finished it's saccharification rest for 60 minutes, and i'm ready to "rinse" the grain bed w/ about 170-175 degree water in the mash/lauter tun (middle kettle), i start the sparge ring a going. you'll want to keep about and 1" or so of sparge water above the top of the grain bed as you sparge/lauter into the brew kettle (bottom level kettle).

i was told by alot of stores and coprate office not to buy the newRubbermaid/Igloo cooler because the inside liner of the new liners will warp and after 5 to 10 times of use it will warp and crack the liner if anyone out theere is using these new coolers not the old ones please tell what kind of condition it is in that would be great and if you can includ how long you have had it and how many times you have used that would be great thank alot

canadianhomebrewer said:

i was told by alot of stores and coprate office not to buy the newRubbermaid/Igloo cooler because the inside liner of the new liners will warp and after 5 to 10 times of use it will warp and crack the liner if anyone out theere is using these new coolers not the old ones please tell what kind of condition it is in that would be great and if you can includ how long you have had it and how many times you have used that would be great thank alot

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I hope not. I just bought one this morning, and was planning on christening it on Wednesday. How do you tell a new one from an old one? Mine looks the same as the old one that I have been using for several years without any problem. (At least, no problems related to the cooler )

-a.

canadianhomebrewer said:

i was told by alot of stores and coprate office not to buy the newRubbermaid/Igloo cooler because the inside liner of the new liners will warp and after 5 to 10 times of use it will warp and crack the liner if anyone out theere is using these new coolers not the old ones please tell what kind of condition it is in that would be great and if you can includ how long you have had it and how many times you have used that would be great thank alot

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I've used my Igloo Maxcold about 10 times and it is definitely warping, but no cracks yet. If/when it cracks, I'm upgrading to a rectangular cooler so I can do 10 gallon batches or bigger beers.

FWIW, even though it is warped, It isn't somethng I am concerned with. It still holds temperatures fine.

El Pistolero said:

I hear ya...all my wife knows is that the keggle cost $99 plus $20 shipping. I didn't tell her about the other $150 of fittings that arrived the next day. And the kids are just gonna have to get scholarships.

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Just put them to work in your brewery and go pro.

In theory I believe a wide rectangular verses a round deep cooler for a lauter/mash tun will yield better results. I base this on that commercial tuns are kept wide to keep the grain bed shallow increasing the surface area for better efficiency and ease of sparging. This may be a minimal concern for a home brewer but if I can find a 10 gallon stainless kettle that resembles a tuna can it will be my next lauter tun. I will have to agree that whatever kettle and/or cooler you choose, it needs to be 10 gallons. The only exception might be the hot liquor tank which a 5 gallon vessel should satisfy 99% of your needs.

canadianhomebrewer said:

... Rubbermaid/Igloo cooler because the inside liner of the new liners will warp and after 5 to 10 times of use it will warp and crack ...

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My mash tun is a rectangular Rubbermaid. I'd had it for 3-4 years and converted it to a mash tun last Summer. I noticed after my last brew session that the inside liner was starting to warp.

So, yep - I'm thinking I may be looking at converting another, more durable cooler in the future. I'll still be looking at another rectangular picnic cooler, because I really like my current set up!

Would this be the mother of all rectangular mash tun coolers?

Yep, that's the cooler I use for 10-gal batches. SWMBO bought it for me for my B-day (and I never even hinted at it) what a great gift. I have mashed 29# of grist in it without incident.
Steve
Stevenson, WA