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ReaderRabbit said:
I'm usually a 3-gallon small batch brewer but since I had some extra space and I seemed to have plenty of yeast from my first attempt at yeast watching, I decided to test out a 1-gallon recipe. I was amazed at how fast the wort cooled. It actually threw my routine off, I had to let the cooled wort sit while I finished sanitizing the carboy.
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Wow, I need to save up more ice....
 
New mash tun from home depot, cost 9.97, 2 gallon cooler. Highly recommended for 1g brewers!

image-3120185793.jpg
 
Exactly what I did! unfortunately I spent a small fortune at my local hardware store picking up the parts......
 
hey 1 gallon brewers - do you guys take both OG and FG ratings? If so do you 'recycle' the wort back? To fill my hydrometer it takes 3/4 a cup of wort. So to take both measurements that's 1.5 cups...with a 1 gallon quantity it's 'a lot' of wort to waste. Just curious what others do.
 
ninkasi2012 said:
hey 1 gallon brewers - do you guys take both OG and FG ratings? If so do you 'recycle' the wort back? To fill my hydrometer it takes 3/4 a cup of wort. So to take both measurements that's 1.5 cups...with a 1 gallon quantity it's 'a lot' of wort to waste. Just curious what others do.
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Buy a refractometer. Look them up on Amazon, I spent $30 on mine....totally worth it. Basically, you put a drop of liquid on the viewer and it measures the gravity of the sample. There are some conversions you have to do....but it literally uses one drop and you don't have to cool a hydrometer sample.
 
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?
 
ninkasi2012 said:
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?
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I use sugar tablets, a little pricey, but no fuss. I also use a hydrometer for my gravity readings, as long as it's sanitized there should be no problem putting the wort back in the pot.
 
what is the benefit to using a cooler for the mashing? I've been using my stock pot for mashing, is there any reason i shouldn't?
 
crispy44 said:
what is the benefit to using a cooler for the mashing? I've been using my stock pot for mashing, is there any reason i shouldn't?
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The stock pot and I assume a bag would be the technique of BIAB( Brew In A Bag) the cooler is closer to what traditional All Grain brewers do.

If it is a stock pot and extract then that is just extract brewing.
 
I like using a cooler because I can basically "Set it, and forget it." Basically, I put my grains and strike water in, and wait 60 min. (well, I stir it occasionally). This time gap allows me to prep the rest of my brew day(Measure hops, clean something....). thus, a shorter brew day!
 
ninkasi2012 said:
thanks for the suggestion...i am debating buying a refractomenter however I heard the FG rating is a bit hard to measure...

Another challenge I'm having with 1 gallon beer is bottling - do you guys use priming sugar, or do you use sugar tablets to avoid losing wort transferring from one container to another?
Click to expand...
With a refractometer I've found it to be somewhere between difficult and impossible to calculate an accurate FG. They work perfectly for OG, but the alcohol content messes them up for FG. It is possible to compensate for the alcohol content, but to much of a pain IMO to be worth bothering with.

However, you can use one to tell when the gravity has stopped changing. Then take a gravity reading for FG with a hydrometer. Yes, I sanitize everything and recycle the sample.
 
But...if you have a refractometer for OG readings, and if you still leave sufficient time for the yeast to finish and the beer to clear up like many of us leave our big batches for a month, you simply need to take a hydrometer reading at the end to make sure and to ascertain the Fg for calculating ABV. You're only out one sample, and that you just drink. Doesn't everyone taste a little on bottling day? Like the last dregs at the bottom of the fermenter? It's not really that much beer, even in a gallon batch, no more than you would probably sneak anyway.
 
Revvy said:
But...if you have a refractometer for OG readings, and if you still leave sufficient time for the yeast to finish and the beer to clear up like many of us leave our big batches for a month, you simply need to take a hydrometer reading at the end to make sure and to ascertain the Fg for calculating ABV. You're only out one sample, and that you just drink. Doesn't everyone taste a little on bottling day? Like the last dregs at the bottom of the fermenter? It's not really that much beer, even in a gallon batch, no more than you would probably sneak anyway.
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Drinking my FG sample is my favorite part of bottling/kegging sometimes it has just enough residual CO2 to be like a cask conditioned ale!
 
I have a 1/2 gallon growler we got from a beer making class - its a porter- and I cant wait to 'rack and pack' it . Sad that its a 1/2 gallon- but seeing that little guy in there inspired me a little.

I've been avoiding reading much of this thread for a good reason. After 2 x 6 gallon 2 x 5 gallon 2 x 3 gallon carboys- do I really have the room / space / patience for 1 gallon brewing? I think I do- but I would do it for mainly experimental purposes.

Im wondering- since most additions come after flame out- or after 1 week in primary- if I make a 3 gallon batch- and split it in 3 gallon carboys- is there anything I can do pre- pitch to change up whats going to happen in these carboys flavor wise? If I want to experiment with different dry hop flavors- ex: one citra, one cascade, one no hop addition- I can see the advantages- but what about pre- pitching the yeast. Can I do anything prior to putting that airlock on and waiting?

Side question- all things relative- does a smaller batch of beer clear quicker than a larger batch? Or does yeast, cleaning etc just happen over the same time- not relevant to size of batch?
 
mikemet said:
I have a 1/2 gallon growler we got from a beer making class - its a porter- and I cant wait to 'rack and pack' it . Sad that its a 1/2 gallon- but seeing that little guy in there inspired me a little.

I've been avoiding reading much of this thread for a good reason. After 2 x 6 gallon 2 x 5 gallon 2 x 3 gallon carboys- do I really have the room / space / patience for 1 gallon brewing? I think I do- but I would do it for mainly experimental purposes.

Im wondering- since most additions come after flame out- or after 1 week in primary- if I make a 3 gallon batch- and split it in 3 gallon carboys- is there anything I can do pre- pitch to change up whats going to happen in these carboys flavor wise? If I want to experiment with different dry hop flavors- ex: one citra, one cascade, one no hop addition- I can see the advantages- but what about pre- pitching the yeast. Can I do anything prior to putting that airlock on and waiting?

Side question- all things relative- does a smaller batch of beer clear quicker than a larger batch? Or does yeast, cleaning etc just happen over the same time- not relevant to size of batch?
Click to expand...

So, I some times will make a 5 gallon batch, and at 60 minutes, I'll fill 2 one gallon carboys and start cooling in an ice bath. I will often dry hop one of them.

With the remaining 3 gallons I might then add orange peel or something else I'm curious about and continue the boil, or I may change the late addition hops. Then I'll either rack all 3 gallon or split them as well. I often use washed yeast so I might split the entire batch into 5 one gallons and pitch a different yeast into each. There's a ton of possibilities, I just recommend taking good notes. When I "wing" it, it is always the one I'd like to make a big batch of later, and can't remember what I did.
 
Leadgolem said:
With a refractometer I've found it to be somewhere between difficult and impossible to calculate an accurate FG. They work perfectly for OG, but the alcohol content messes them up for FG. It is possible to compensate for the alcohol content, but to much of a pain IMO to be worth bothering with.

However, you can use one to tell when the gravity has stopped changing. Then take a gravity reading for FG with a hydrometer. Yes, I sanitize everything and recycle the sample.
Click to expand...

I picked up the refractometer from Morebeer that corrects and it has a link on the site to the excel spreadsheet for when you have alcohol in your beer. I loaded the spreadsheet in my iphone so i could use it in the brewery without bringing in a laptop. Tested it 4 times side by side with a hydrometer before I was convinced I could trust it but now I love it. It's very accurate for OG and FG readings and its so fast. I picked up a long plastic straw from a candy shop that I use for a thief and it works great. After I dump out my sample of approx 1/2 to 1/4 oz, it's enough to taste it to see how it's going. Sometimes I dip the straw a few more times just to get about an oz so I get a real good taste and I still have my drop for my reading.
 
divrguy said:
I picked up the refractometer from Morebeer that corrects and it has a link on the site to the excel spreadsheet for when you have alcohol in your beer. I loaded the spreadsheet in my iphone so i could use it in the brewery without bringing in a laptop. Tested it 4 times side by side with a hydrometer before I was convinced I could trust it but now I love it. It's very accurate for OG and FG readings and its so fast. I picked up a long plastic straw from a candy shop that I use for a thief and it works great. After I dump out my sample of approx 1/2 to 1/4 oz, it's enough to taste it to see how it's going. Sometimes I dip the straw a few more times just to get about an oz so I get a real good taste and I still have my drop for my reading.
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Hmm, might have been the conversion chart I was using then. Or the fact that I was aiming for more the 10% abv. Something to revisit at some point.
 
Question: What are you guys using for 1 Gallon Brews? Glass? Plastic?

Are you using the wine jugs- with the screw tops? Just using airlocks instead?

thx
 
My LHBS has 1-gallon carboys so I have a couple of those. I also use one for bottling, the auto syphon stays upright and I can see when I'm getting near the end.

I recently found these barrel jars at a local store for around $20.00 and I think I'll get a 2-1/2 gallon for bigger batches. The top could easily be drilled for a fermentation lock. Here's an example of one...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M9NMJA/ref=asc_df_B000M9NMJA2195142?tag=thefind0103633-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B000M9NMJA&linkCode=asn
 
Well I'm about to get back into the game. I have 4 1 gal primaries chilling right now waiting to be used. Took the summer off as I didnt want to fight the temps down here in the deep south. Now looking into a fridge fermentation chamber as my bath tub method will not fly with the kids using their bathroom now. finally. But damn I miss the hobby and to be honest I havent been on HB talk for a few months and I think I forgot all that I learned. I should have made my comeback last month so I could have some October beers ready to go. Think I will go with an easy recipe like Haus Pale Ale.
 
3 six liter tap-a-draft bottles, a 2 gallon bucket for fermenting and also a 2 gallon bottling bucket and 2 three gallon better bottles
 
Just dropped by the LHBS and picked up a 1.75 gallon AG Brown recipe i scaled down and 2-1gallon basic ales kits. The 2 ales will end up being either a single hopped amarillo, HBC 342, centennial or willamette. Since I don't know what these taste like by themselves, I will let the hop shine in these small batches. Also, I get to brew 3 batches and I love the fun of brewing. Then in a few weeks, brew another batch or two o the other hops. I love the variety.

I also BIAB so when I do my mash, it gives me time to get a workout in between. It's a very relaxing day.
 
forestGeek said:
My LHBS has 1-gallon carboys so I have a couple of those. I also use one for bottling, the auto syphon stays upright and I can see when I'm getting near the end.

I recently found these barrel jars at a local store for around $20.00 and I think I'll get a 2-1/2 gallon for bigger batches. The top could easily be drilled for a fermentation lock. Here's an example of one...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M9NMJA/ref=asc_df_B000M9NMJA2195142?tag=thefind0103633-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B000M9NMJA&linkCode=asn
Click to expand...
There is a 2 gallon drink dispenser that I use. It is similar to the jar you linked to. I got it from my local walmart for $10.

I modified it so I could put the airlock in. If I was doing that again, I would drill a hole and install a wire grommet instead of trying to make a hole big enough for the plug. That would be much cleaner, and I wouldn't have had to try and adjust the lid so much. I put the plug to close to the edge of the lid.

dispenser.jpg
 
I started brewing with Mr.Beer August 21st 2011 August 25th I bought a brewers best 5 gallon equipment kit and a BB extract kit and did that for a few months then I bought the Brooklyn brew shop book and 4 1 gallon carboys and made a few of those recipes, bought beersmith and scaled down a few recipes from HBT that looked good in February I came across a deal on craigslist round barn brewery was selling 4 3 gallon carboys for 80 bucks.. I got them for 60 and have been doing 2.5 gallon AG recipes since then on my stove top I couldn't be happier, like others I like to have a variety I keg them up in 5 gallon Cornies drink several and bottle the rest with my Blichmann beer gun if they last that long, Life is good!
 
Has anyone come up with clever ways to bottle you small batches? One gallon isn't allot, but my process takes forever.

Wash bottling bucket, spring filler, tubing, bottles, caps, auto siphon

Rack beer into bucket, add primer

Fill and cap beer

Wash everything again.

I spend more time washing than bottling. Seems like there should be a better way....
 
When I bottle my small batch brews, I usually rack into another sanitized 1 gallon carboy to get the beer off the yeast/trub and then move the autosiphon into the second 1 gallong carboy and attach my bottle filler to the end of the tubing. I also use the carb tabs (the tiny ones that take 4 or 5 per bottle instead of priming sugar). Doesn't take very long at all.
 
IffyG said:
When I bottle my small batch brews, I usually rack into another sanitized 1 gallon carboy to get the beer off the yeast/trub and then move the autosiphon into the second 1 gallong carboy and attach my bottle filler to the end of the tubing. I also use the carb tabs (the tiny ones that take 4 or 5 per bottle instead of priming sugar). Doesn't take very long at all.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about carb tabs. Maybe I'm just slow and lazy....
 
Just want to double check with you guys, I can't seem to find a definitive answer. How much yeast do you usually pitch for one gallon?

3-4 grams?
 
jwalk4 said:
Just want to double check with you guys, I can't seem to find a definitive answer. How much yeast do you usually pitch for one gallon?

3-4 grams?
Click to expand...

That's what I do, I tried 2 grams and didn't see much difference. I also use a secondary. I'm no pro though.
 
rawkstar320 said:
That's what I do, I tried 2 grams and didn't see much difference. I also use a secondary. I'm no pro though.
Click to expand...

How do you measure out the yeast? What I mean is, do you sanitze a ramekin and the pour the yeast (either dry or liquid) into it and weigh it? If it's dry yeast, doesn't it get stuck to the wet/sanitized ramekin?

I've never "weighed" my yeast when pitching for 1-gallon batches. I usually go to mr. malty, find out how much I'm supposed to pitch, and then round up a bit to assure I pitch enough.
 
IffyG said:
When I bottle my small batch brews, I usually rack into another sanitized 1 gallon carboy to get the beer off the yeast/trub and then move the autosiphon into the second 1 gallong carboy and attach my bottle filler to the end of the tubing. I also use the carb tabs (the tiny ones that take 4 or 5 per bottle instead of priming sugar). Doesn't take very long at all.
Click to expand...

I do this same method (except I use Coopers tabs) and it works perfectly for me. Takes me about 30-45 minutes including clean-up.

:mug:
 
JeffoC6 said:
How do you measure out the yeast? What I mean is, do you sanitze a ramekin and the pour the yeast (either dry or liquid) into it and weigh it? If it's dry yeast, doesn't it get stuck to the wet/sanitized ramekin?

I've never "weighed" my yeast when pitching for 1-gallon batches. I usually go to mr. malty, find out how much I'm supposed to pitch, and then round up a bit to assure I pitch enough.
Click to expand...

Since it is typically recommended that dry yeast is re hydrated prior to pitching, I usually sanitize a small glass measuring cup, measure yeast, add liquid. This way most of the yeast is suspended.
 
jwalk4 said:
Just want to double check with you guys, I can't seem to find a definitive answer. How much yeast do you usually pitch for one gallon?

3-4 grams?
Click to expand...

About 1 teaspoon will do the trick, which comes out to about 3-4 grams. That's what I use every time unless I making something over 7% ABV, then I'll use a little more.
 
rawkstar320 said:
Has anyone come up with clever ways to bottle you small batches? One gallon isn't allot, but my process takes forever.

Wash bottling bucket, spring filler, tubing, bottles, caps, auto siphon

Rack beer into bucket, add primer

Fill and cap beer

Wash everything again.

I spend more time washing than bottling. Seems like there should be a better way....
Click to expand...

I can usually bottle my small batches from start to finish in about 20-25 minutes. It helps to have a small batch bottling bucket with a spigot on it. Read this and see if it helps: http://www.smallbatchhomebrew.com/assets/images/HowToBottle.pdf
 
forestGeek said:
On my lower gravity beers I've pitched 2-3 grams. I haven't done a really high gravity beer yet, but I assume 4-5 grams for those. I use Mr. Malty Calculator (http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, that'll come in handy in the future. Malty is telling me to use 2 grams, of dried yeast, for a one gallon batch of 1.050 ale, which sounds about right for what everyone else is saying. Thanks again guys.
 

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