Anyone use JB Weld?

So I think that the hole for my heating element is just a bit too big. When I put in the element, there is some play between the threads and the hole. I can get it to be leak proof sometimes but other times it doesn't work so good. My fear is when the pot heats up it will expand and I'll get leaks.

I'm considering using JB Weld to attach the 1" stainless NPS nut to my stainless pot. Anyone tried it? My thinking it to put it outside of the pot.

I think quite a few people have been using it. I have on mine. It's been about six months now with no leaks.

WroxBrew said:

I think quite a few people have been using it. I have on mine. It's been about six months now with no leaks.

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Did you put your nut on the outside or inside? What type of JB Weld did you use?

Mine is on the inside, but you can do it either way. My front panel is thin enough that there is enough thread for my NPT to tri-clamp adapter and gasket. YMMV

I cant remember which jb weld off hand. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Why not just solder the nut on? I have done it a few times and worked out great.

I'd appreciate it if you could check on the type of JB Weld. I'm assuming it handles the torquing when you screw in a new element and tighten it down. Did you do any roughing up of the pot surface?

JRems said:

Why not just solder the nut on? I have done it a few times and worked out great.

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I wouldn't think that the solder would hold up to the torque you may apply when tightening the element. But if it has worked for someone, I guess it does.

GregKelley said:

I'd appreciate it if you could check on the type of JB Weld. I'm assuming it handles the torquing when you screw in a new element and tighten it down. Did you do any roughing up of the pot surface?

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I'm pretty sure you are directing this one at me. I don't have to torque it too much. If I over do it, the washer will just start deforming. Because I'm using a tri-clamp fitting, There is no torque to the kettle. I am not trying to seal a flat surface to a curved one. I take off the NPT to tri-clamp adapter for cleaning after every brewing session and have not had an issue. Yes, I did rough the surface of both the plate and the nut.

The JB weld is not robust enough and is only a matter of time before it will fail.

Soldering on the other hand creates a much stronger bond.

Sorry, I missed that you wanted to jb weld the fitting to the kettle. I don't think it would work very well in that context. I'm just using it as a seal to the enclosure plate.

Thanks for both of you gentlemen for clearing up and more importantly showing me the post describing how JB Weld failed.

With soldering, I've only done it with copper pipes using a propane torch. Anything special for soldering stainless steel?

I just didn't think that a solder fitting would hold up well to torquing.

You need liquid flux rather than the paste you're used to. Other than that it's pretty easy. See this thread for a lot of hints.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/

Ravenshead said:

You need liquid flux rather than the paste you're used to. Other than that it's pretty easy. See this thread for a lot of hints.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/

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Thanks. I should get an award for reading all 119 pages of that thread!

With the right liquid flux it will solder just like copper. I have soldered fitttings to a keg and you could hit them with a hammer and they won't come off.

Patience Grasshopper, your award will be a well built pot and the ability to mount even more accessories without weld-less kits or a TIG machine.