How to sour mash homebrew (AKA: sour beers for impatient homebrewers)

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joshrosborne

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I posted this on my blog and thought it might be of interest to the forum. As I note on the bottom, if any of the info or nomenclature I use is incorrect, please let me know so I can edit it. I'll be following this general post up with an pictorial example (a strawberry Berliner Weisse) that I'll be starting tonight and will post here as well.

As the thirst for sour and funky beer has taken over the craft beer scene in the form of lambics, Berliner Weisses, and various other Brettanomyces and bacteria-inspired beers; homebrewers have also taken a hankering for trying their hand at these unique beers. There is a large gap, however, between the ease of acquiring a bottle of many sour/funky beers and being able to drink a bottle of your own creation. In the former case, you merely have to skip down to your better beer store and part ways with some cash; the latter involves much, much more time and effort. Particularly time: many lambics and sours take upwards of one to two years to 1) reach an acceptable flavor profile and, 2) reach terminal gravity so you don’t have exploding bottles as fermentation continues in them.

With this in mind, it’s no wonder that there hasn’t been an explosion of homebrewing sours. Sure, I’m certain more people are doing so than 1, 5, or 10 years ago, but the number of these people are dwarfed by both the number of new homebrewers and the number of new fans of sours. It makes sense since patience is not a virtue that is widely held by the human race. I bottled my last IPA 8 days after brewing it; I bottled by first sour 13 months after brewing it. Is there no hope for sour beer lovers who would hope to crank something out in a month or two that is both sour and drinkable? This is where sour mashing comes into play.

With most sour beers, a number of critters, both yeast and bacteria, come into play. In Wyeast’s Lambic Blend, for instance, there exists a Belgian style Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (this is the yeast strain of most, if not all brewer’s yeasts), a sherry yeast strain, two Brettanomyces strains, a Lactobacillus culture, and a Pediococcus culture. Both Lactobacillus and Pediococcus are souring bacterias; in a lambic, most of the sourness will come from the Pedio, which takes much longer to create sourness than Lacto. It also provides a much more complex flavor than Lacto. Taste a lambic and then taste a Berliner Weisse and you will understand the different I refer to. Acetobacter is also a souring bacteria, but the souring flavor it provides is vinegar-like and is not desirable in most style of beer except Oud Bruins and Flanders Reds. Also, I would like to note that in most cases, despite what many people believe, Brettanomyces yeast will not provide sourness except in rare instances. Tart yes, sour no.

Sour mashing basically involves one of these critters and that is Lactobacillus delbrueckii. Other strains of Lacto (acidophilus) are found in yogurts and is responsible for its signature tangy-ness. It thrives in high temperatures, which is why we will be sour mashing our wort at somewhere between 104-111 Fahrenheit. Not only is this the temperature at which the Lacto is going to make your beer sour the quickest, but it is also at a high enough level that most other undesirable spoiling bacteria will not reproduce effectively. Lacto will reproduce (and sour your beer) anaerobically, which is great because the exposure to air will invite Acetobacter, the undesirable bacteria noted above.

Sour mashing in beer is not a new process, but it’s not one that has been nailed down to a science. The general process is this: get a fermentable-rich wort ready, through all-grain methods or by dissolving malt extract in water; cool the wort down to 110-115; introduce the Lacto, either by throwing in a handful of grain which is covered by it, or by using a commercial culture; eliminate or at least reduce air exposure by flushing vessel with CO2 or by laying plastic wrap over the wort’s surface; hold temperatures at where you have it; and wait. Monitoring every day or so is a good idea to make sure you can pick when it’s as sour as you like. I find that 2-3 days is about ideal.

Once it’s to your likings in terms of sourness, boil with a tiny bit of hops. The boil will kill the Lacto and fix the sourness at the level you chose. After boiling, chill as normal and pitch your preferred yeast strain to ferment out. You don’t need to worry about spoiling your equipment with the bacteria, as the boil has killed all of it already. Bottle, wait for carbonation, and enjoy your quickly brewed sour!

I will be following up this post with an actual example of a strawberry Berliner Weisse that I will be doing over the next month or so. I am actually starting the sour mash tonight. If you have any question about the above, or the process in general, please submit them in the comments and I will answer them to the best of my ability.

(Note: I am not a scientist or even a brewing expert, so if any of the science above is incorrect, please let me know in the comments and I will edit as needed.)

Edit: Accidentally swapped Lacto acidophilus for Lacto delbrueckii above. They are not the same thing, as noted in the posts below.
 
Amazing write up. My only question with sour mashing is how do you keep the 110-120 temp for days at a time? I have never done a sour mash but I am very interested.
 
Amazing write up. My only question with sour mashing is how do you keep the 110-120 temp for days at a time? I have never done a sour mash but I am very interested.

My chest freezer fermentation chamber actually serves to heat and cool. I need it that way since my basement gets too cold for most ale fermentations during the winter. I have a reptile tank heating cable that I have taped up to line the interior of the freezer. I have no idea how hot it can get, but it can get to 110-120 and hold that very easily.

I think it's this cable: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWMS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

By the way, I finished the sour mash I'm going to be following up this with. It's currently fermenting with some US-05.
 
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I should note, before I had a fermentation chamber, I did my best to maintain the temperature by keeping the cooler in a very, very hot space in my house and adding hot water as needed.
 
A few points to contribute...

You mentioned Lactobacillus Acidophilus. Another, more common Lactobacillus used in beer making is Lactobacillus Delbrueckii. This is what Wyeast and White Labs offer for their Lactobacillus options.

With regard to temperature for the sour mash, Lactobacillus Delbrueckii will achieve optimum cell growth between 104-111°F (40-44°C), but should still do well in the 90s, if you can't keep it that hot.
 
I have no temp control but I have sour mashed at room temp. I actually sparged and drained first, so it wasn't a traditional sour mash, but basically the same thing. You just need an extra few days, if that. Then I brought it to a boil, did my hops, etc. I think it is a great way to control your product. I thought that it was only the yeasts that produce complexities over time. I mean, lacto is a 1-dimensional creature, right? It produces lactic acid and in some cases alcohol, and lowers the ph which is nice for brett and all, but does it make esters, phenols, etc., or digest and transform flavor compounds in a stressed environment?
 
A few points to contribute...

You mentioned Lactobacillus Acidophilus. Another, more common Lactobacillus used in beer making is Lactobacillus Delbrueckii. This is what Wyeast and White Labs offer for their Lactobacillus options.

With regard to temperature for the sour mash, Lactobacillus Delbrueckii will achieve optimum cell growth between 104-111°F (40-44°C), but should still do well in the 90s, if you can't keep it that hot.

Thank you about the delbrueckii correction. I meant to make that differentiation in the original, but never managed to get to it.

Do you have a citation for the optimum temperature? I thought I read 111F somewhere as the optimal, but I have absolutely no idea where. I'm sure you're right; I'd just like to know where to find it for my records.
 
I have no temp control but I have sour mashed at room temp. I actually sparged and drained first, so it wasn't a traditional sour mash, but basically the same thing. You just need an extra few days, if that. Then I brought it to a boil, did my hops, etc. I think it is a great way to control your product. I thought that it was only the yeasts that produce complexities over time. I mean, lacto is a 1-dimensional creature, right? It produces lactic acid and in some cases alcohol, and lowers the ph which is nice for brett and all, but does it make esters, phenols, etc., or digest and transform flavor compounds in a stressed environment?

In my experience Lacto does nothing but sours the wort and give it a slight fruitiness that varies between citrus and berries depending on the batch. Strangely enough, the sour mash I just finished yesterday reminds me a lot of blackberries in flavor. I usually just use US-05 for a clean finish, but I bet a high attenuating saison yeast like 3711 would be great.
 
Very nice write-up. I'm just starting to appreciate sours and recently brewed my first Berliner using wyeast's 3191 blend. It turned out very nice and is decently sour at 1 month. As you say though, Berliner tends to have a much simpler profile than other sours.

How do you think these other styles would differ with your approach? Is it really possible to speed up the process for things like Flanders Red? And although you suggest Brett doesn't really sour, it is critical to many of these beers. I presume that this process can't really speed up the Brett ferment. Basically I'm getting at the question of what is really the limiting factor in terms of time for these beers?
 
I don't think you could make a reasonable approximation of something like a Flanders with sour mashing, since the sour profile in that beer is developed using Pedio and a some acetic characteristics.

There is no reason, however that you couldn't sour mash a Berliner Weisse and then do a 100% Brett fermentation or a normal Sacc fermentation with Brett secondary, which would bring some funk and complexity to the table at least. Probably the closest thing to a Flanders you could do would be a sour mash with a darker colored wort, then pitch some Wyeast Brett L, which supposedly produces a decent cherry-like flavor. Obviously the end product would be very different from a traditional Flanders Red, but it might be worth a try.
 
As promised, here are some pictures of the sour mash I did that is currently finished and fermenting with US-05. I was helter skelter with the pictures, so if I didn't address anything, please ask.

IMAG0724.jpg


Cast of characters: bucket to measure out my water, DME (5lbs), 6 gallons of water, my old stock pot (I didn't want to dig out my burner and big pot), grain (pretty much any will do, but I used 2-row, uncrushed), and 7gl cooler. Not pictured: thermometer, whisk.

IMAG0726.jpg


I stirred all 5lbs of DME into 3-4 gallons of water. Since I'm not going to get it up to boiling, headspace in the pot isn't an issue. Whisk, whisk, whisk to get rid of all the clumps and raise the temperature to whatever temperature makes you feel comfortable that you've pasteurized everything.

IMAG0732.jpg


Once you get it to temperature, pour it into your clean, sanitized cooler or whatever vessel you're going to be sour mashing in.

IMAG0735.jpg


Let it cool to 120 or below and pitch some lacto-carrying grain or a commercial culture. The lid will go back on the cooler to reduce oxygen exposure. The cooler is in my fermentation chamber, which can heat and cool. The reptile heat cables taped to the sides of the freezer will easily keep the ambient over 110 or so degrees Fahrenheit, which is ideal.

IMAG0739.jpg


Here is the sour mash after 48 hours. It is just shy of sour and stinks pretty badly. Mine smelled like sour milk and bad sour cream, no fecal smells or anything like that. Luckily the freezer contained all of the stink.

IMAG0740.jpg


I used a paint bag to separate the soured wort from the grain and scum produced. Works like a charm.

IMAG0741.jpg


I used a very small amount of hops that have been sitting in the freezer for more than a year. I was aiming for only somewhere like 5 IBU.

After screening out the crud, you boil just as normal. A vigorous boil will scrub a lot of the stink and deal with any DMS issues you might have with grain sitting at elevated temperatures for that long. I've done 15 minutes before and had issues with DMS, so this time I went for 30 minutes.

The good thing about this method is that by boiling , you kill the Lacto so you don't have to worry about your equipment. I chilled and fermented as I would any other beer. Used US-05 and it went from 1.038 to 1.01 in two days. I'll be checking it this weekend to see if it's at terminal gravity and, if so, I will be racking it onto 7lbs of strawberries I have in the freezer.

I'll be sure to update with more pictures as I get some that are noteworthy.
 
Thank you for posting that! The first time I sour mashed anything a while back, I wish I could have found more information.
 
Any pictures with the strawberries? Or maybe updates in general?

Anyways, I just started my first sour mash today. Thanks for the info.
 
I have to say I was not super pleased with the strawberries. They are pretty good on the nose, but next to non-existent in the flavor. What flavor that does come through is really, really ripe strawberry.

I'll get some pictures uploaded once I get a chance today.

I think the next berliner will either a berry version or lightly dry hopped with a fruity hop like Amarillo, Citra, or Nelson Sauvin.
 
I have to say I was not super pleased with the strawberries. They are pretty good on the nose, but next to non-existent in the flavor. What flavor that does come through is really, really ripe strawberry.

I'll get some pictures uploaded once I get a chance today.

I think the next berliner will either a berry version or lightly dry hopped with a fruity hop like Amarillo, Citra, or Nelson Sauvin.

Oooh, I like the idea of the dry hopped version.

I'm sour mashing my first right now and it seems to be going very well (Very clean sour after 30 hours and pretty close to my taste).

It's a 12 gallon batch so I'll try to split the batch 3 ways:
- Straight Berliner
- Dry hopped like you suggested
- Some sort of extended ferment with fruits and Brett

I can't guarantee I'll do all three, but I'll try at least 2.

Good ideas!
 
If I sour in my mash tun, I could just cover the top with plastic wrap and pull samples from the drain and not disturb the top, right?

I would guess so. I was going to buy a water cooler with a spigot to do it this way, but I ended up being cheap and getting a different one.
 
Yes but depending on how sour you want it, you will have to add hot water to bring it up to temp every once and awhile (every 8 hours with my mash tun) Ive heard of many people doing the plastic wrap to keep O2 out since they cant flush with CO2
 
Yes but depending on how sour you want it, you will have to add hot water to bring it up to temp every once and awhile (every 8 hours with my mash tun) Ive heard of many people doing the plastic wrap to keep O2 out since they cant flush with CO2

That's what I've always done in the past. Either I saran wrap it on the surface or I make the sure entire vessel is completely full.
 
Im going to give this a crack in the near future, fingers crossed and cheers for the writeups
 
if you do a short boil, how long would you wanna go? just enough to get the IBUs you're shooting for? has anybody tried adding hops to the mash?

if you wanted to add some fermentables to the boil in order to boost the OG, what would you wanna add that wouldn't mess with the flavor profile?

do you test the pH to tell when you're done sour mashing, or do you just go by taste?
 
Short boil is just to pasteurize, but you can take the opportunity to add hops if you choose, I've done that. Remember that DMS precursors form above ~180F, so if you're going above that, you might want to do a full boil anyway to avoid DMS. You can pasteurize at about 165F so if you don't want a full boil, you could hold the temp at ~175 for 10-15 mins and should be fine.

Any simple sugars or malt extracts would be fine to add as fermentables. Just remember that sour beers are already thin bodied and adding more sugar will thin them out even further so don't go overboard.

You can use a meter if you have one. I do it by taste, but have to remember this is pre fermentation, so the perceived sourness is lower due to the unfermented sugar. Post fermentation it will taste more sharply sour. It may take a few batches to dial it in on your system.
 
I thought about doing a kettle sour, leaving my kettle outside with maybe an old towel or a dark blanket to help absorb sunlight to keep it warm, only problem is i don't want to move my kettle while full and I don't mind leaving my blichman burner outside but we have had so much rain in maryland i'm worried about rust on the burner
 
The idea of sour mashing seemed a bit daunting to me. I wanted to experiment with a sour after having Boulevard’s Hibiscus Gose last year as well as some of the offerings from Prairie Artesian Ales. I got more of the Boulevard Gose this year and realized I’ve got three huge hardy hibiscus plants on my back patio with huge blooms essentially becoming compost. "Why not turn that into beer?" I thought!

I’m hoping to encourage anyone else with HERMS or RIMS to give this method a try. It might be problematic for those with a keggle for their MLT, or might not if they can seal it. After doing all the reading I could, it’s obvious O2 is the enemy of natural sour mashes.

What I did for my sour mash is this:

I have an electric RIMS system. I mashed a 5 lb. pilsner & 5 lb. white wheat adjusted with lactic acid (88% from LHBS) to 5.2 pH at 148 for an hour, did a 10 minute mash out then kept the mash at 170F, gradually adding lactic acid to get the pH below 4.5. Once below 4.5 pH (4.4), I ran it through a sterile counterflow chiller into a CO2 purged Corny keg. I collected right at four gallons of wort without sparging. I did not take a gravity reading so as not to risk adding any odd microbes, though that’s never been an issue thus far.

Once in the keg, I purged the wort with more CO2 through the outlet port. I pitched a large handful of unmilled pilsner on top of the grain bed then pushed the wort back into my MLT which, for 5 gal. batches, is a 10 gallon cylindrical Igloo cooler.

With my recirculation plumbing, there was little chance of sealing off the grain bed with plastic, so I made a tent of aluminum foil to seal best as possible. After all wort was returned to the grain bed, I continued to purge the cooler for a couple of minutes which was probably over-kill. I placed the lid back on the cooler and duct taped the seam (I’m from Oklahoma- duct tape is used on everything!).

I set the PID for the RIMS to maintain 118F and left it circulating overnight. When I woke up this morning, I raised the temp to maintain 124F for 30 min to kill off any other odd bacteria which may have made it’s way in.

All the information I can find on lacto is it will live up to 130F but between 120 and 130 it’s “sluggish”. I lowered back to 118 until the 24 hour mark then took a pH reading and the mash is now pH 3.99, and there’s not a hint of untoward odors so I lowered the temp to maintain at 115F and I’ll take another reading tomorrow night. If the mash is at 3.6/3.7 pH, I’ll go ahead and boil.

I plan on doing a full boil regimen of 60 minutes using Nelson Sauvin hops. I’m curious to see how the unique properties of Nelson will do in a sour. I’m debating whether to use .25 to .5 oz. at 60 min or skip a :60 addition and do .5 at 30, .5 at 10. .5 at f/0 then dry hop 1.5 oz. Suggestions?

With the hibiscus and coriander, this might be a bit much, but great beers come from experimentation. I have to admit, I’m somewhat inspired by Chase Healy at Prairie Artesian Ales which is headquartered here in Tulsa. He’s making a great living by bending and outright breaking all the rules on funky sour beers.
 
The idea of sour mashing seemed a bit daunting to me. I wanted to experiment with a sour after having Boulevard’s Hibiscus Gose last year as well as some of the offerings from Prairie Artesian Ales. I got more of the Boulevard Gose this year and realized I’ve got three huge hardy hibiscus plants on my back patio with huge blooms essentially becoming compost. "Why not turn that into beer?" I thought!

I’m hoping to encourage anyone else with HERMS or RIMS to give this method a try. It might be problematic for those with a keggle for their MLT, or might not if they can seal it. After doing all the reading I could, it’s obvious O2 is the enemy of natural sour mashes.

What I did for my sour mash is this:

I have an electric RIMS system. I mashed a 5 lb. pilsner & 5 lb. white wheat adjusted with lactic acid (88% from LHBS) to 5.2 pH at 148 for an hour, did a 10 minute mash out then kept the mash at 170F, gradually adding lactic acid to get the pH below 4.5. Once below 4.5 pH (4.4), I ran it through a sterile counterflow chiller into a CO2 purged Corny keg. I collected right at four gallons of wort without sparging. I did not take a gravity reading so as not to risk adding any odd microbes, though that’s never been an issue thus far.

Once in the keg, I purged the wort with more CO2 through the outlet port. I pitched a large handful of unmilled pilsner on top of the grain bed then pushed the wort back into my MLT which, for 5 gal. batches, is a 10 gallon cylindrical Igloo cooler.

With my recirculation plumbing, there was little chance of sealing off the grain bed with plastic, so I made a tent of aluminum foil to seal best as possible. After all wort was returned to the grain bed, I continued to purge the cooler for a couple of minutes which was probably over-kill. I placed the lid back on the cooler and duct taped the seam (I’m from Oklahoma- duct tape is used on everything!).

I set the PID for the RIMS to maintain 118F and left it circulating overnight. When I woke up this morning, I raised the temp to maintain 124F for 30 min to kill off any other odd bacteria which may have made it’s way in.

All the information I can find on lacto is it will live up to 130F but between 120 and 130 it’s “sluggish”. I lowered back to 118 until the 24 hour mark then took a pH reading and the mash is now pH 3.99, and there’s not a hint of untoward odors so I lowered the temp to maintain at 115F and I’ll take another reading tomorrow night. If the mash is at 3.6/3.7 pH, I’ll go ahead and boil.

I plan on doing a full boil regimen of 60 minutes using Nelson Sauvin hops. I’m curious to see how the unique properties of Nelson will do in a sour. I’m debating whether to use .25 to .5 oz. at 60 min or skip a :60 addition and do .5 at 30, .5 at 10. .5 at f/0 then dry hop 1.5 oz. Suggestions?

With the hibiscus and coriander, this might be a bit much, but great beers come from experimentation. I have to admit, I’m somewhat inspired by Chase Healy at Prairie Artesian Ales which is headquartered here in Tulsa. He’s making a great living by bending and outright breaking all the rules on funky sour beers.

i've heard great things about prairie, but to be honest, i wasn't willing to pay that much for their beer. though, i was only in tulsa for two weeks this year, so i wanted to spend my money on all kinds of american craft beers, and not just a few artisan beers.

can i ask why you lowered the pH that low before adding the grains? i haven't been reading too much about that part of the sour mash, but i feel like the people that i have been reading just shoot for a normal mash pH (about 5.2), then let the lacto bring it down for them. was it just to shorten the amount of time that you had to let it sour?

also, i don't understand why you took it off the original grain bed, only to add it back on. what was the purpose behind that?
 
i've heard great things about prairie, but to be honest, i wasn't willing to pay that much for their beer. though, i was only in tulsa for two weeks this year, so i wanted to spend my money on all kinds of american craft beers, and not just a few artisan beers.

can i ask why you lowered the pH that low before adding the grains? i haven't been reading too much about that part of the sour mash, but i feel like the people that i have been reading just shoot for a normal mash pH (about 5.2), then let the lacto bring it down for them. was it just to shorten the amount of time that you had to let it sour?

also, i don't understand why you took it off the original grain bed, only to add it back on. what was the purpose behind that?

From my research, a pH of <4.5 will help prevent any of the unwanted bacteria which can ruin your mash.

The reason I pulled it off the bed was to cool the wort rather than letting it fall over 24 hours or so. I was able to chill the wort to 90F which coincidently brought the grain bed down to 120F from 170F. It needed to be at 120F or below to pitch my un-mashed grain to seed it with lacto.
 
From my research, a pH of <4.5 will help prevent any of the unwanted bacteria which can ruin your mash.



The reason I pulled it off the bed was to cool the wort rather than letting it fall over 24 hours or so. I was able to chill the wort to 90F which coincidently brought the grain bed down to 120F from 170F. It needed to be at 120F or below to pitch my un-mashed grain to seed it with lacto.


Gotcha. I'm biab in my pot, and I prefer acidulated malt over acids.

So can I just add enough of that to drive the ph down?

And then I cool in my sink and can prolly get down to 120 in about 7-8 mins. So I guess I wouldn't need to take the grains off the wort?
 
Gotcha. I'm biab in my pot, and I prefer acidulated malt over acids.

So can I just add enough of that to drive the ph down?

And then I cool in my sink and can prolly get down to 120 in about 7-8 mins. So I guess I wouldn't need to take the grains off the wort?

Keep in mind, I&#8217;m a total newb at sour mashing but I think that&#8217;s a pretty solid approach:

Get your pH below 4.5, temp to 115-120 for seeding with fresh grain. Once your grain is in the mash, put plastic wrap on the grain bed and seal best you can against the kettle wall, put your lid on and maintain your heat for two or three days. If you have a drain valve or sample port, even better. Use it to check your pH every 24 hours. When I took my sample last night I tossed it after getting my reading. For obvious reasons of o2 introduction and possible other infection it would not be a good idea to put the rest back in the pot.

One other tip I&#8217;d read was not to drink sour mashed wort until it&#8217;s been either pasteurized or boiled as there could be other food poisoning type organisms in there until it&#8217;s fermented to a point of at least 2% alcohol. I dipped the tip of my tongue in last night to get a sense of the sourness and immediately rinsed. I don&#8217;t care to risk being up all night with stomach/bowel issues!
 
Success! After 48 hours, the mash was at 3.48 pH, so I pulled the lid on the MLT and inspected the bed. No off smells other than a sourish straw smell I was expecting, no slime or anything like that. I raised the temp to 170F and fly-sparged with 170F water to the fill line in my boil kettle for a 5 gal batch.

It’s extra work, but I may be hooked on sour mashing!
 
Success! After 48 hours, the mash was at 3.48 pH, so I pulled the lid on the MLT and inspected the bed. No off smells other than a sourish straw smell I was expecting, no slime or anything like that. I raised the temp to 170F and fly-sparged with 170F water to the fill line in my boil kettle for a 5 gal batch.



It’s extra work, but I may be hooked on sour mashing!


Very nice, my first kettle sour went for about 36 hours i had some big bubbles forming under the saran wrap, i'm glad I didn't wait any longer because the post boil gravity sample was super sour, used about 4 oz of acid malt for mash ph and use 10% of the grain bill with acid malt to add the bacteria which was about 14 oz uncrushed acid malt

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1437596189.460095.jpg
 
Ended up having to restart my Instant Pot sour mash. 36 hours in and I got this slimy goo as you can see in the pictures and the PH didn't drop at all with 2 cups of unmilled pilsner malt. Set the PH to 4.4 with lactic acid as well. We'll see how this batch goes for Sundays real brew day.

I couldn't tell if it was a pellicle trying to form under the plastic wrap because it was only seen where there was bubbles in the wrap.

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