Anyone brewed an IPA with EKG ?

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0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -

Are these additions after flameout/before chilling?

I recently brewed a rather too strong English IPA with a significant EKG charge of 4oz at 5 minutes to go in the boil (5 gal Randy Mosher recipe). I'm getting a real strong spicy/peppery flavor/taste that I want to say is the hops rather than something in my process. Fermentation with Thames Valley II started at 66-68F (beer temp) for the first few days then went to 70-72F for the remainder. The recipe also has 2 lbs of sugar in it which may also be a factor. It's the most EKG of the same lot (leaf '08) I've used.
 
This is a Whitbread IPA recipe from 1941:

gravity (OG) 1068.5
gravity (FG) 1016
ABV 7.00%
Apparent attenuation 76.64%
Real attenuation 62.79%
IBU 64.3
SRM 14.2

6-row 2.00 lb
English pale 10 lb
Crystal 0.50 lb
No.1 invert sugar 0.75 lb

Goldings 4.5% 90min 3.25 oz
Goldings 4.5% 30min 1 oz
Goldings 4.5% dry hop 1.67 oz

Mash 60min @ 150F
 
Ron, I've got your resurrected 1955 Whitbread XXX on tap at the moment. Gave me a chance to brew with mild ale malt and some homemade "Invert No.3" for the first time. I'm enjoying it so far, it is a nice companion during my bathroom retiling/renovation project. For my tastes though, the one change I'd make would be to use a more flavorful yeast (I used clean Nottingham). The above IPA is something I'll have to try. Thank you!
 
Ron, I've got your resurrected 1955 Whitbread XXX on tap at the moment. Gave me a chance to brew with mild ale malt and some homemade "Invert No.3" for the first time. I'm enjoying it so far, it is a nice companion during my bathroom retiling/renovation project. For my tastes though, the one change I'd make would be to use a more flavorful yeast (I used clean Nottingham). The above IPA is something I'll have to try. Thank you!
That XXX is a beer I'd love to try myself. I've not had chance to try most of the recipes I've published. A bit frustrating at times.

This IPA is a really weird one because it's way stronger than Whitbread's normal IPA. Literally double the OG. They made a few brews of this for no apparent reason.
 
That XXX is a beer I'd love to try myself. I've not had chance to try most of the recipes I've published. A bit frustrating at times.

This IPA is a really weird one because it's way stronger than Whitbread's normal IPA. Literally double the OG. They made a few brews of this for no apparent reason.


That's what I thought as well, 7% abv ...how irresponsibly fun !
 
First time I am giving this out :

Dry hopped with Chinook, other than that , all East Kent Goldings, Chinook is a distantly related cultivar of the Petham Golding


GABF Pro AM -Gold Medal
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 5/16/2007
Style: English IPA Brewer: Christopher Bowen
Batch Size: 5.00 gal Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 5.72 gal Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Equipment: My Equipment
Actual Efficiency: 69.96 %

Taste Rating (50 possible points): 48.0
Best of show at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival - ProAM catagory, Silver medal at the AHA regional , Gold medal at the Kona Beer Festival 2008

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 86.13 %
14.4 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.58 %
6.4 oz Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 3.45 %
5.4 oz Wheat, Torrified (1.7 SRM) Grain 2.84 %
1.25 oz Chinook [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 33.1 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days) Misc
1 Pkgs Thames Valley Ale (Wyeast Labs #1275) [Starter 125 ml] Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.062 SG (1.050-1.075 SG) Measured Original Gravity: 1.058 SG
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.015 SG (1.010-1.018 SG) Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Color: 11.0 SRM (8.0-14.0 SRM) Color [Color]
Bitterness: 33.1 IBU (40.0-60.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 10.0 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 6.10 % (5.00-7.50 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 6.26 %
Actual Calories: 257 cal/pint


Mash Profile Name: Single Infusion, Full Body
Mash Grain Weight: 11.61 lb Mash PH: 5.4 PH
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F
Sparge Water: 2.03 gal

Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash In Add 3.63 gal of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F 90 min
Mash Out Add 1.45 gal of water and heat to 180.0 F over 2 min 180.0 F 10 min


Mash Notes
Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Carbonation Volumes: 2.4 (2.2-2.7 vols)
Estimated Priming Weight: 3.8 oz Temperature at Bottling: 60.0 F
Primer Used: 3.5 Age for: 2.0 Weeks
Storage Temperature: 58.0 F

I brewed this for my first BIAB attempt. I have a question about the Yeast Nutrient. I interpreted the "3 days" as add it after 3 days in the primary after I pitched the yeast. Palmers book does not really go into detail about how to add the yeast nutrient just that it can be good for the yeast. After a little Google it appears some people add it at the end of the boil. I purchased LD Carlson yeast nutrient. Do I just add my 5 teaspoons directly into my primary or do I need to boil some water and dilute it? If I need to add water, how much at at what temp?? I feel very lost, thanks for any input.

Josh
 
How is your fermentation going so far? Do you have OG and current SG readings? Did you make a yeast starter? I could imagine that nutrients added later in the primary might help the yeast finish the beer but there are probably much better methods of achieving that. If you pitched a good amount of healthy yeast, you've already provided enough nutrients for them to carry out fermentation. This is not a particularly high-gravity beer and there are very little adjuncts (wheat) that would reduce the overall amount of nutrients in your wort.

So, if you've got a good fermentation, I would not bother adding the nutrient.
 
Fermentation is going fine. It started bubbling with in 24hrs and has slowed up already, but still bubbling. The foam didn't get very high. Maybe, 2inch. it has already gone down (I brewed friday night). I did not use a starter.

I do not have a OG reading, I purchased the glass wine thief from Midwest and well, its way to short for me to be able to pull anything out of the carboy. I realized that before I brewed and wanted to take the reading before I put it into the primary, but well I was a few pints in by that point... I need to figure out what else to use to pull samples out. Any suggestions?

I do have a second packet of yeast. Think I should just RDWHAHB? or Should I add the second packet of yeast and/or the nutrient now?

By the way, this is my second ever brew by myself. First one was a brewers best Xmas present from my brothers. I have have watched/helped my buddy brew 8-10 batches and learned a bunch but nothing like being by yourself brewing...
 
Heh, I try not to drink while I brew but one cannot always avoid that, especially with friends around - I've made mistakes too. Given that, and it's only your second batch, you can't be sure how well or at what point your fermentation is currently at without at least a starting gravity and current specific gravity reading. Whether or not the airlock is bubbling or the foam has fallen also is not a good indication either.

You are at Day 4 of fermentation so if you are going to relax, keep your fermenter warm (upper 60's, low 70's) and rouse (optional) if your current temps are lower than that. Keep it that way at least until 2 weeks from brewday before doing anything else.

If you want to grab a sample, you could use an auto-siphon if you have one or create one with a racking cane and tubing filled with water. Without those measurements you do run a risk of not knowing if fermentation is complete and if it is not, you could overcarbonate in the bottle. And that's not fun after all the work you put into it.

Good luck!
 
Auto-siphon - Good call.

I checked my hydrometer with water was at 1.000. Pulled a sample I got 1.004'ish Shocked it dropped that quickly! That was an great reward of cleaning/sanitizing everything to have a nice little taste after i checked the gravity. A lot less sweet then the sip I took when I was transferring it to the primary. (Assuming the yeast at all that sugar, thus less sweet now.) I was sorta disappointed there was not much smell. Sorta makes me want to raise the dry hop to 2oz. Is it common not to smell this much yet?

photo (2).jpg


Thanks 14thstreet! :mug:
 
I'll assume you haven't dry-hopped yet (too early) but concerning the aroma at this point, it is possible that they are slightly subdued because the beer is flat. The last East Kent Goldings you added were with 10 minutes left into the boil (I think). Although you are adding 1.5 ounces, I've found that hop to be more subtle in character than a similar amount of American C-hops (Cascade, Centennial, etc).

Once the beer is carbonated the CO2 should bring that out, especially after you dry hop. During dry hopping you should smell the hops in the beer, yes. But hey, good for you, you're sampling your beer throughout the process. Great way to learn and surprise yourself!

You're already ahead of me, this beer is in my pipeline to brew but I just need to find the time!
 
I found the time last night to brew mrbowenz' award-winning IPA, along with a rebrew of Randy Mosher's Jaggery IPA. Both small batches, but I was up until 2:30am last night finishing them. Is it possible to get a hang-over from just brewing? I think I've got one!

Anyway, I hit all my numbers and the Wyeast 1882 Thames Valley II is chewing on it as we speak. I'll follow these up with a 1941 Whitbread IPA, Meantime IPA and Sister Star of the Sun for a nice comparision/showdown in the future. Keep me informed how your's is coming along, hopplease!
 
Nice, Sounds like some IPA paradise in your near future! Keep me updated on which IPA was your favorite. I might try that as my next IPA. I prob won't brew another IPA until 3-5 batches down the road. I dunno what I am brewing next. My brother wants to brew a SNPA with me in the near future. Besides that, I have been all over the place on what I want to brew next. I do want to brew a Founders breakfast stout clone at some point.

I transfered mine to the secondary on 4/21/11. (original brew date was 4/1/11) Going to dry hop with 2 oz instead of the 1.25 oz of Chinook on Wednesday 4/27/11. I plan on just tossing the pellets into the secondary without a bag and with anything done to clean/sanitize the hops. I purchased 1# of Chinook in a group buy and broke them into 2 oz vacuum bags. I plan on just opening the vacuum bag and tossing them in. This seem reasonable? From what I have read it does, but maybe you have a theory I am missing?

The reason for the delay in dry hopping the secondary is rather odd. The buddy that got me brewing and I are having a little "competition." He is about a week behind my brew so I was trying to have that dry hop has fresh as possible for when we do finally crack a couple open compare in the name of science. I plan on keeping the dry hops in the secondary from 4/27/11 to 5/6-7-8/11.
 
I'll let you know how they come out. I sampled the two recently at 8 days after brewday. Both appear to be reaching final gravity, which in the case of Mosher's IPA, is significantly ahead of schedule compared to the last time I brewed it with the same yeast (though several generations old). The Bowen IPA has gone from 1.065 to 1.014 for 78% attenuation (mashed at roughly 154F) whereas Mosher's IPA (with 16-17% sugar) went from 1.068 to 1.009 or 86% attenuation (mashed at 150 and less over time).

Bowen's IPA has a small bit of diacetyl in it but with a 2 week primary that should clean up.

Mosher's IPA is definitely dry and a little boozy (young) but I think it was a nice clean ferment that should help mellow it out. The late addition of EKG hops is there (spicy) but subdued since the last time I used them (old leaf hops). Hopefully using these up doesn't come back to bite me because of lack of freshness. Both have dropped slightly clear already.

I don't think your dryhopping delay is odd. I know some people dry hop barleywines or very strong IIPAs that have some age on them before they package or are ready to serve. In fact, if you are kegging, you can add them at any time to keep it fresh. I know for my next dry hop I'll definitely rouse (or rack) a day or two before adding the hops. One IPA I had restarted fermentation and chewed off several more points of gravity along with allowing hop aroma to escape with the ensuing CO2. It was a 3oz dryhop for 5 gallons so I still got aroma but I can only imagine how much I drove off.
 
Ah, so your reusing yeast. That is the next on the to learn list. I currently have a left handed milk stout clone with coca and mint additions using S-05 yeast in the primary. I was thinking about trying to recapture the S-05. I was just going to pour the slush into a sanitized mason jar. Let it settle, then try pouring the top 2/3rds into another sanitized mason jar, then do it one more time and keep that as yeast to pitch. This seems to be the most basic approach I have found so far. How do you do yours?

(Dry Hoping) Well that makes sense. I guess I was just under the mind set you would dry hop as you transfer to the secondary to try to mix up the hops into the wort. I guess a lot of recipes call for multiply dry hop additions at different times. Thanks for getting me to think a little bit.

I finally dry hopped the IPA today. (5/2/11) (Transfer to secondary was 4/21/11). I put closer to 2 oz in of Chinook. I'll either bottle this weekend or next weekend. I can't wait to taste this!
 
I tend not to reuse yeast from high(er)-gravity beers and/or beers with special ingredients, but that does not say you cannot. I usually make a starter for the bigger beers and always save a little of that to grow up in additional starters for later beers or freeze down. One practice I haven't gotten into yet is making a session ale that I can save portions of the yeast cake that I can choose to use right away in a subsequent beer or store for use later (and used in a small, "wake-up" starter before pitching). I just cannot keep a regular brewing schedule even though I try to brew once a month. Many ways of reusing yeast so you'll just have to find one method that works for you. Your description of how you would do it sounds great.

I'll end my Chinook dry-hop this Thursday and bottle. Then 2-3 weeks of utter impatience before a side-by-side tasting. I hope to brew up two other IPAs- a Whitbread 1941 IPA (all EKG) and Meantime IPA(EKG+Willamette (my Fuggles sub) this weekend.
 
Finally bottled this tonight. The couple samples I had out of the hydrometer was AMAZING. I could't believe the smell already uncarbed. A huge change from when I put it in the secondary and was bitching there was no smell. I guess 2 oz of Chinook will do that. I can not wait for this to carb up. The taste, well the taste was out of control. I am super excited for this beer.

FG was 1.004 little lower then the expected 1.010. Wish I would have had a SG reading. O well, I got it on the next two beers I brewed. So I am improving. w00t!

I ended up not trying to capture the yeast from the milk stout. I have a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone in the primary now. Hopefully, I get some Ball Jars by the time I transfer that into the secondary.

So how did you brew this after me and still get it bottled before?? Maybe next time I will have to move this a long a little faster.
 
Good to hear that yours is turning out so well!

I've generally settled into a 2 week primary fermentation schedule. However, I should stress that any beer I brew is not fixed to a schedule, as each individual beer dictates in its own way how long or short that schedule is. I also did not secondary this beer before I added dryhops because all signs indicated fermentation was done or very close to it. No off flavors that needed extra time with the yeast. I actually dryhopped in the primary for a week then crash cooled for 2-3 days before bottling it, so that's 24 days? I will say though I was not impressed by the flavor (rather dull) but that could be a result of drinking a lot of hop sludge.

I did test a bottle of my Jaggery IPA (4 weeks from brew day) and must say this turned out much better than my first attempt in that it was entirely drinkable as a finished beer. That tells me my fermentation was great. The hop character is a bit subdued now possibly because the EKG whole hops are that much older from last summer.
 
14thstreet, I realized I never pointed out that i used Wyeast 1968 for this beer.

Is the Jaggery IPA recipe posted here on hbt? I cracked open my first one on friday and I been flying through this IPA. I am going to need another ipa soon. Not brewing again until June 12th. I have a cert exam June 11th and need to keep my focus on that. I am thinking I will do an imperial stout June 12th. Hopefully, balk age it for a while, bottle it, and then crack one open in December. In early July transfer that to my empty secondary then brew some type of IPA. Maybe even something on the imperial side of IPA. Any suggestions/favorites?

I am very glad I did the 2 oz of Chinook for the dry hop. I felt like it was a nice slap in the face of aroma but nothing over the top. I am not sure if I will be able to dry hop an IPA with less then 2 oz's now. Hopefully, I am not catching that hop fever. I just really enjoy a beer with nice aroma.

My clarity needs some work, but for my first all grain batch it was the least of my worries.

photo (6).jpg
 
Looks good there hopplease, glad you are enjoying your first AG batch! I've been meaning to do a review of the two IPAs I did side-by-side but feel they may not be accurate due to the old EKG hops I'm using. I like this description as I think I'm picking up some of these nuances in the Jaggery IPA.

For both IPAs I used Wyeast 1882 Thames Valley II, which is currently available as a seasonal strain. However, I've brewed the Jaggery IPA twice now with the same yeast and with 2lbs jaggery sugar per 5 gallons, I believe the yeast is having some problems finishing the beer. I've targeted 2 vol CO2 for bottling but the end product seems 2.5 volumes or greater. The extra bite from the carbonation isn't working and it may be masking some flavors in the beer. I would only recommend this recipe with this yeast by lowering the sugar to 1 pound and use fresh EKG hops. For me, it looks like the use of sugar requires me to really have a handle on how my yeast behaves.

If you are enjoying the IPA you made, why not make it again?!? I brewed the bowenz IPA with 1.25 oz of Chinook dryhop and I think it easily stands above the EKG in this recipe (remember my EKG are old). Nice aroma with a bit of flavor from that addition. The amber/crystal malt helps balance this beer, even low the bittering is on the low end for an IPA.
 
I guess the reason I don't want to brew this again is because I am so early into my brewing I want to try different recipes. Plus, I have >7 #'s of 14 different types of hops in my freezing. I itching to try them all.

Maybe, I'll redo bowenz with different hops? Hmmmmmm
 
I understand your point, I've been there too. I'd really like to rebrew some recipes just to make sure my process is down and if I can achieve some level of reproducibility, but the draw of different styles is too great to remain stubborn to that goal.

I had another bottle of my bowenz IPA last night and enjoyed it enough that one bottle wasn't enough. Still a worknight so I had to resist. Went down rather quickly. I am picking up the EKGs in the middle of the beer but not sure about their quality. At this point I'd say they are rather earthy/spicy which I pick up in my other EKG IPA. Cannot tell if the crystal is giving the beer its sweetness or its the piney/citrusy/resinous Chinook hops in the finish that's doing it. Nice deeper amber color with a hint of red in it. Haze goes away on warming (the dryhops are causing this) to a rather clear beer. A bit overcarbonated again. Small 1.5 gallon-ish batch so my boil rate probably adds a bit of color and my volumes are off. Nose seems to already be fading slightly. Got to drink these up fast, definitely like the earth/citrus combo.
 
Hi - thanks for the recipe mrbowenz. I have a batch of this in the primary at present and I'm wondering about the dry hop. I have never used chinook before and was considering it versus EKG. Does chinook in a dry hop give the beer a citrusy aroma/flavour or is it more pine? Pine I dig, otherwise I'll go with EKG.

Comments appreciated from anyone with chinook dry hop experience.
 
I felt the Chinook gave this an American feel to it, whether it was citrus and/or pine. On the other hand, I've also gotten the same sort of character from Styrian Goldings, which is basically a Fuggle. If it were me, I'd go with whatever hop you can get the freshest and you can't go wrong.
 
In general, I feel like chinook gives a piney aroma to a beer, when dry hopped. It seems very "american" when I smell it. If I was going to dry hop an otherwise EKG hopped beer, I would just double down on the EKG, and go with two ounces. I feel like EKG and fuggles are so much milder than the big, brazen american hop varieties. I used .5oz willamette, .5oz golding, and .25 oz of challenger in a dry hop on my ESB and I felt like they were barely noticeable. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to do a 2oz EKG dry hop.
 
I follow a number of UK homebrewing resources and although things are changing, I see more recommendations of dry-hopping with 0.25-0.5 oz (7-14g) per 5-6 gallons (19-23L) than I do 2 oz! Granted, a majority of these are not IPAs as Americans know them. I guess for traditions sake it is all in the name of subtlety. But you are right, those amounts are barely perceptible to me as well.
 
I'm sure that the right beer could be dry hopped with that amount and be noticed. And to be fair, I put an ounce of pretty mild hops in my ESB which is 10% crystal 60. They don't have much of a chance. They do help create a wonderful aroma, but it's not something that we would think of as hoppy in the American sense.
 
While I normally use smaller amounts of (UK) dry hops in my English styles, EKG are somewhat tricky in that they often give a different flavor depending on the usage. For instance, you really have to use a lot of them in the boil and/or dry hop to achieve that intense "marmalade jam" character that they are so known for. In contrast, just using a oz or two throughout the brewing process won't give you nearly the same character... usually coming off as carroty, grassy, floral, ect.

Then there is the issue that a lot of the EKG's people claim to be using are just US Goldings - which have a completely different character - and that it is hard to find good quality EKG hops here in the states. I've had my best luck with whole cone and organic (pelleted) EKG. However, I've not been impressed by the quality of HopDirect's whole cone UK selection.
 
I'm waiting for my oak aged English IPA to get ready. Added a load of goldings (4oz) at 15m and it was fairly noticeable. Finished of with Willamette. There's some good single hop very pale Goldings beers around (I think Marstons makes one), and the aroma is very distinctive. To be fair, I'd say that EKG, cascade, simcoe and amarillo are the only very unique and recognizable hops I know.
 
First time I am giving this out :

14.4 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.58 %
6.4 oz Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 3.45 %

I am planning an English IPA for a homebrew competition - isn't this one rather sweet with so much Crystal malt?
 
Hi mrbowenz,

I know this is an old post, but would you mind giving some insight into your fermentation schedule/process for this beer? I'm specifically interested to know if you crash cooled early, or right after FG was reached, to preserve yeast character.

Any help is appreciated!


First time I am giving this out :

Dry hopped with Chinook, other than that , all East Kent Goldings, Chinook is a distantly related cultivar of the Petham Golding


GABF Pro AM -Gold Medal
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 5/16/2007
Style: English IPA Brewer: Christopher Bowen
Batch Size: 5.00 gal Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 5.72 gal Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Equipment: My Equipment
Actual Efficiency: 69.96 %

Taste Rating (50 possible points): 48.0
Best of show at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival - ProAM catagory, Silver medal at the AHA regional , Gold medal at the Kona Beer Festival 2008

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 86.13 %
14.4 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.58 %
6.4 oz Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 3.45 %
5.4 oz Wheat, Torrified (1.7 SRM) Grain 2.84 %
1.25 oz Chinook [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 33.1 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days) Misc
1 Pkgs Thames Valley Ale (Wyeast Labs #1275) [Starter 125 ml] Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.062 SG (1.050-1.075 SG) Measured Original Gravity: 1.058 SG
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.015 SG (1.010-1.018 SG) Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Color: 11.0 SRM (8.0-14.0 SRM) Color [Color]
Bitterness: 33.1 IBU (40.0-60.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 10.0 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 6.10 % (5.00-7.50 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 6.26 %
Actual Calories: 257 cal/pint


Mash Profile Name: Single Infusion, Full Body
Mash Grain Weight: 11.61 lb Mash PH: 5.4 PH
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F
Sparge Water: 2.03 gal

Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash In Add 3.63 gal of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F 90 min
Mash Out Add 1.45 gal of water and heat to 180.0 F over 2 min 180.0 F 10 min


Mash Notes
Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Carbonation Volumes: 2.4 (2.2-2.7 vols)
Estimated Priming Weight: 3.8 oz Temperature at Bottling: 60.0 F
Primer Used: 3.5 Age for: 2.0 Weeks
Storage Temperature: 58.0 F
 
I need to brew an english ipa tomorrow. this looks good, but am worried about it being too sweet?

how did yours turn out? was it very sweet?
 
I know this is an old thread but maybe someone has an answer. :fro:

I was thinking of brewing this but I have a pack of WYEAST 1968 ESB yeast would this make a big difference to the Thames Valley Ale yeast?

Thanks!:tank:
 
I know this is an old thread but maybe someone has an answer. :fro:

I was thinking of brewing this but I have a pack of WYEAST 1968 ESB yeast would this make a big difference to the Thames Valley Ale yeast?

Thanks!:tank:

That will work fine. It won't be exactly the same beer of course, but this recipe is far and away the best English IPA I've had. Commercial or otherwise.

That said, I personally didn't care for the Chinook as dry hop. YMMV
 
If you find crystal sweet replace it with invert #2. How did you find the Amber malt? I use it in small amounts in some pale ales and it complements the MO nicely.
 
That will work fine. It won't be exactly the same beer of course, but this recipe is far and away the best English IPA I've had. Commercial or otherwise.

That said, I personally didn't care for the Chinook as dry hop. YMMV

Thanks, I'll give it a go in a few weeks.
I used the same strain from White Labs (WLP002) once before at about 65F and bottled it after the SG didn't change for about a week. However about a month later it was totally overcarbed :mad:

This time when it appears to be finished I'll bump the temperature up to 70F for 3 or 4 days just to be sure.

Getting back to the Chinook, I have used it in two beers in the kettle and I wasn't mad about it.
Maybe it has a more pleasant flavour when dry hopping?
Anyway I have 1/2# of the stuff so I'll give it another chance. :mug:
 
I just dry-hopped a batch on Saturday. The only real difference between the original recipe and mine is that I used West Yorkshire Ale (1469). My OG was 3 points low, but it finished at 1.008, 7 points lower than BeerSmith and the original recipe expected. Fermented at 64-65 for 3 days, then increased to 70 degrees to finish. I am very much looking forward to trying this one.
 
I'm planning on brewing this on Friday.
I hope it's ready within 5 weeks because I would like to serve it at a party.
3 weeks total for fermentation and dry hop then 2 weeks in the bottle.

I have never used amber malt or dry hopped with Chinook before, would two weeks in the bottle be long enough for this to start hitting it's stride or does it need longer?

Should I consider brewing something else if I want a great beer within 5 weeks?
 
I'm planning on brewing this on Friday.
I hope it's ready within 5 weeks because I would like to serve it at a party.
3 weeks total for fermentation and dry hop then 2 weeks in the bottle.

I have never used amber malt or dry hopped with Chinook before, would two weeks in the bottle be long enough for this to start hitting it's stride or does it need longer?

Should I consider brewing something else if I want a great beer within 5 weeks?

So I brewed this with 1968 and it turned out very good but AGAIN after about a month in the bottle they started gushing. That yeast drives me mad :mad:

Anyway I would like to give it a go again using the same grain bill but different hops and yeast. Probably a dry yeast this time - I have Nottingham, S-04 and Windsor.

I have a load of Target and a few ounces each of Challenger, EKG, Fuggles Styrian Goldings, Willamette (not English I know)

So I'm thinking:

Bitter with Target, Challenger in the middle of the boil and aroma with EKG.
Ferment with Windsor (maybe add some brown sugar to dry it out a bit)
Then dry hop with Willamette. :drunk:
 
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