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borny

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Quick question.... Currently, I biab and use a simple rims setup to maintain mash temps and a separate control box to power the boil kettle, but I want to ultimately combine the two into one control box. If I were to change this diagram to control a rims tube using 120 volt circuit, but still be able to use the the PID as a control for 240 volt boil kettle, how would I do that? Would I use a 2 pole center off switch, but just use only one hot wire that would power the 120 rims outlet? Or would it work better using contactors?




Thank you, Dan
 
Almost forgot the diagram.....

ForumRunner_20120430_075601.jpg


Thanks again in advance!
 
Bump

Just checking if anyone has any ideas..

Thank you!
 
Just use the switched hot leg and neutral for your 120V rims element, easy!
 
The diagram you posted is so very small that I cannot identify it.
Do you have the document ID name? (I'm the one that drew it.)

I'd be glad to redraw it for you with your planned setup.

P-J
 
Dan,

After spending a bunch of time trying to find my drawing, I finally hit on pay dirt.

So with that said, you have 2 alternatives on how you want to set up your controller. I modified the original diagram to show 2 alternatives.

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

This is the 120V version of the RIMS setup:



And this is the 240V version of the RIMS setup:



Either one will work with a 240V - 30A power feed.
I really hope this helps you.

P-J
 
Thanks for the feedback! Sorry for the slow response, had shoulder surgery earlier this week and I'm moving a bit slow. As soon as I can, I'm going to work on the control box.

Thanks P-J for the drawings! Kind of how I anticipated how it would look.

Right now, since the rims is set up for 120, I think I'm going to go the cheap route and just hook up the rims heater to a 120v circuit in the control box.



Thanks again!
 
The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.
 
The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.
OUCH... I'll fix that and edit this post when it is done.

Getting old just plain sucks.!

So Very Sorry,
P-J

Edit: Well it is corrected. Just do a refresh and it will show properly now.

The good news? You are very smart. Enough to catch me in a screw up.
Thank you. It is important for me to present accurate information.

P-J
 
that looks better, getting old does suck indeed! I like to blame it on beer most of the time!
 
Pickled-brain-cell-a-tosis! Pickled in good beer of course! :)
Not my problem.

When you get as old as I am you will see (or probably not) things differently.

I was born in the 1930's. Getting old and keeping the brain and body working is a full time job. Sometimes things escape the thought process and get glossed over.

I always try my very best to do my very best.!

Nuf said!

P-J
 
Again I cannot express how much I appreciate the wealth of information you guys are willing to share. I've had so much fun building this control box I wonder sometimes if I missed my true calling in life.

Anyway, I cannot wait to brew again and with the improved control box. It's just going to be a couple months as I wait for my body to heal.
 
Here is a look at the final product. I test ran it today and it works like a charm! Can't wait to brew the first batch of beer with it.

Cheers!

ForumRunner_20120601_130648.jpg
 
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