My own Keezer build! Does this seem right?!

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OsbornBrewing

OsbornBrewing

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Got a craigslist find, and can't pass it up! So, I was parting out the hardware for it, and I just want to make sure I'm on the right track.
Here it is:
IMG_16321.JPG


I already have a kegging system for one keg w/ picnic dispenser & CO2 reg. (you experts will notice the parts don't add up)

So here's my parts list w/ prices:
2 x FFL Fitting (1/4") 3.98
1 x 35' Air Line Hose 1/4" (per foot) 17.50
3 x Barbed Liquid Disconnect (Ball Lock Keg) 17.97
1 x MFL Bulkhead (4") 10.49
4 x Chrome Shank (4 1/8") 71.92
3 x Barbed Gas Disconnect (Ball Lock Keg) 17.97
4 x Perlick Perl Forward Sealing Faucet 131.88
1 x Chrome Air Distributor: 4 Way (1/4") 59.99
1 x Dial Thermostat (Johnson Controls) 69.99
Total Cost of Items: $401.69

For those of you that already did a keezer, does this seem right? Am I shopping in the right place? Any advice pro or con would be greatly appreciated.
(deliberately left out the name of the company)

Here's the layout of the inside:
IMG_16352.JPG
 
You can get a Johnson temp controller for less at Brewmaster Warehouse (I bought 2 of them from him for $54.99). I get a lot of stuff from him come to speak of it.

although I also found a site for ball lock connects for real cheap (brewersdiscount.com). $3.85 each.

Make sure you take pics of the build!
 
I may suck at reading, but I don't see the beer line listed, only the gas. Also, unless the shanks have the tailpiece welded on, you need those too. Also don't forget hose clamps.
 
If you want to carb kegs and serve kegs, I think you'll need a dual regulator... Depending on how much you brew you may want another spiller so you can have two kegs carbing and 4 kegs being served.... Then again, don't know what size your freezer is... Also note - the perlicks probably do NOT come with tap handles... those are separate...
 
JSomps6 said:
If you want to carb kegs and serve kegs, I think you'll need a dual regulator...
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Lots of people (myself included) just set the pressure where needed for serving and let new kegs carb up at that same pressure.
 
jlandin - thanks for the link! This thing will nickel-dime ya death huh? Not that I'm complaining I can't wait to get this thing going!!!

Quick Question - why did you go with the Love controller over a freezer thermostat?

MBasile - the 35' of Air Line I was hoping would cover both sides. In looking through some builds though, I noticed people using blue/red tubing from the CO2 bottle, and the clear plastic tubing I was getting for both sides, just on the dispensing side. What's the difference between the two?

I have a single regulator ATM. Was going to use it for both, like Walker said. And if needed add another, or maybe trade up later.

Keep the comments flowing, I like this alot.

Oh, added the freezer pic in my original post, too.
 
OsbornBrewing said:
Quick Question - why did you go with the Love controller over a freezer thermostat?
Click to expand...

That thermostat would work fine. I went with the Love controller because I like having the digital temperature display on the side of the coffin. It's also nice being able to set the differential.

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use one of these from Auber. I have these on my brutus and they are great.

--
Josh
 
OsbornBrewing said:
...

MBasile - the 35' of Air Line I was hoping would cover both sides. In looking through some builds though, I noticed people using blue/red tubing from the CO2 bottle, and the clear plastic tubing I was getting for both sides, just on the dispensing side. What's the difference between the two?

...
Click to expand...

You can use clear for both CO2 and liquid but unless you want really long lines (or really low carb levels) you won't want 1/4". Beverage line is generally 3/16". Additionally you will want beverage quality tubing and not "air hose". When I read "air line hose" my first thought was the rubber stuff I have on the air compressor. Good beverage line typically has a thicker outer wall than the thin walled vinyl tubing which helps prevent kinking.
 
Quick plug for www.cornykeg.com, just got 4 cornies from these guys, and they are GREAT! They're refurbing COCA-COLA kegs, so they're a little shorter, and 1" fatter then the PEPSI kegs. They also manufacture and replace to ball lock sockets for them. They are color coded and the disconnects fit TIGHT! which is nice. I liked their sockets so much I bought 2 extra sets for the cornies I already have. I am local to them, so I drove down to the shop and picked em up. Shipping might be a bear though. But if you're looking for cornies, DEFINITELY give them a look.

can't get photo to upload :(
 
OsbornBrewing said:
Quick plug for www.cornykeg.com, just got 4 cornies from these guys, and they are GREAT! They're refurbing pepsi kegs, so they're a little shorter, and 1" fatter then the coca-cola kegs. They also manufacture the ball lock sockets for them. They are color coded and the disconnects fit TIGHT! which is nice. I liked their sockets so much I bought 2 extra sets for the cornies I already have. I am local to them, so I drove down to the shop and picked em up. Shipping might be a bear though. But if you're looking for cornies, DEFINITELY give them a look.
Click to expand...

Wow im glad you posted this! Shipping isnt bad. From there OH to Denver CO for 2 kegs is only $23 shipping!
 
OsbornBrewing said:
Got a craigslist find, and can't pass it up! So, I was parting out the hardware for it, and I just want to make sure I'm on the right track.
Here it is:
IMG_16321.JPG


I already have a kegging system for one keg w/ picnic dispenser & CO2 reg. (you experts will notice the parts don't add up)

So here's my parts list w/ prices:
2 x FFL Fitting (1/4") 3.98
1 x 35' Air Line Hose 1/4" (per foot) 17.50
3 x Barbed Liquid Disconnect (Ball Lock Keg) 17.97
1 x MFL Bulkhead (4") 10.49
4 x Chrome Shank (4 1/8") 71.92
3 x Barbed Gas Disconnect (Ball Lock Keg) 17.97
4 x Perlick Perl Forward Sealing Faucet 131.88
1 x Chrome Air Distributor: 4 Way (1/4") 59.99
1 x Dial Thermostat (Johnson Controls) 69.99
Total Cost of Items: $401.69

For those of you that already did a keezer, does this seem right? Am I shopping in the right place? Any advice pro or con would be greatly appreciated.
(deliberately left out the name of the company)

Here's the layout of the inside:
IMG_16352.JPG
Click to expand...

What's the manufacture and date of your chest freezer?
Your 12.2 cu/ft shows it holds 7 cornys without needing a collar, both plus items on my next keezer build list. Looks to me like a older Whirpool unit, date on the back available plus R12 or R 134a refrigerant used? Please post plus a great find and congrats. It screams for a coffin build. I'm looking between a 7 corny to 9 corny keezer build.
 
It says Wood's on the handle. WC Woods on the sticker inside. Model UWC10-ZL/E date is listed as 9506. R12 refrigerant

hope that helps
 
Osbornbrewing:
The Coke kegs (pin lock) are the shorter fatter ones, Pepsi ball locks are the more common taller thinner ones. I see that their refurbs are Coke pin lock converted to ball lock. This may affect your plans for the layout of kegs, your circles are tight and the inside walls of the freezers can be a little bowed.
This is a great start to a project, you will love having the extra room for kegs on tap.
 
bendavanza said:
Osbornbrewing:
The Coke kegs (pin lock) are the shorter fatter ones, Pepsi ball locks are the more common taller thinner ones. I see that their refurbs are Coke pin lock converted to ball lock. This may affect your plans for the layout of kegs, your circles are tight and the inside walls of the freezers can be a little bowed.
This is a great start to a project, you will love having the extra room for kegs on tap.
Click to expand...

The worse case I see if Coke kegs are used you'll stagger them more with plenty of room at 6 kegs vs 7 planned. That's a great find due to the depth as well R12 which is a little more efficient than R134a gas. The pisser is R12 gas recharge or addition will cost ya big time vs 134 should you have to add any. I saw this coming years ago hence two 30# bottles of R12 with 58 cans of 12oz R12 in storage for my older vehicles and refrigeration needs.
 
Yes, I got that backwards in my original post. I apoligize.

Waiting on the controller and manifold from Chicompany! Building a hop trellis in the meantime.

The coffin build sounds like a great idea! Putting a collar on it for now. It's going to hang out in the garage for now, so all I'm going to do is raise the lid with a collar, no holes in the freezer, and should I get the basement finished with the bar I would like to have, then this will get a coffin and finish to match.
 
OsbornBrewing said:
It says Wood's on the handle. WC Woods on the sticker inside. Model UWC10-ZL/E date is listed as 9506. R12 refrigerant

hope that helps
Click to expand...

Sounds right at the cutoff of R12 and R134a coming into law. I know R134a is in my 95 Discovery made in 11-94. Good keezer vs the Haier made in China, this just rubs me wrong, just me. Just the right size or one size bigger to handle up to 9 cornys. I'll take any size and be happy being I sold my keezer.
 
I would ditch the 1/4" air line and use 3/32" beer line for everything. I'm a big fan of having the same parts everywhere possible. One type of hose, one type of connection, etc. It makes the "toolbox" of spart parts lighter, and cheaper!
I would also recommend MFL on everything. It's great to be able to re-use hoses for other things as you re-configure your system. It also makes it possible to take the CO2 tank out of your keezer with the regulator attached. Just unscrew the gas line at the manifold.
It might sound unnecessary, but it can come in handy. I carry the CO2 tank to my pile of secondary cornys and use CO2 to transfer the beer to serving kegs. All you have to do is attach a gas QD to the MFL on the regulator hose for the transfer. When you're done remove the QD, and attach it to the manifold in the keezer again.
You could, of course, take the beer in secondary to your keezer for the transfer, but that will disturb the sediment...
 
So, I've hit a wall, took pics all last week, and spent the whole weekend working on getting this bad boy put together. Was all excited to put the top on, and start a write up while waiting for the glue to dry.

I popped the straps off the collar, and the WHOLE THING came off. I lost all motivation on this build, and am not too happy write now.
keezercollar.JPG

Every write up I read about attaching collars to the lid, it was just liquid nails on the collar and go. Well, I'm back to square one.
 
Fear not...
The lid doesn't have anything in it to prevent you from just screwing your collar to it. Just get some little 1-hole angle brackets and attach them to the lid and the collar. Or, whatever else you can find to allow you to screw them together. Between those and some liquid nails, you should be good to go.

Or, if you are going to wrap it in wood (build a cabinet around it), and cover the top in wood too, you can just take some 2" drywall screws and screw straight threw the top of the lid into the 2x4's...

There's always a way ;)
 
It is finished!
IMG_22551.jpg

I love it, and am enjoying the fruits of my labor!!! :D

I took sweetsound's advice and just srewed the collar straight through the lid. My facebook page is public, shouldn't need a login to see it, and I made a slideshow of the install. The HBT gallery is being moody and some pics will upload and some won't, I'll write up the build as soon as I can though.

Thanks to everyone here who helped with advice and motivation. It was well worth it! For me anyways :)

CHEERS! :Cheers:
 

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