Making hole for element question

So kal's website says to use a 1 1/4" punch for the element. I tested this hole on a scrap peice of metal and the hole seems alittle large? Looks like the seal covers the hole but still sloppier then I would have imagined. Maybe a 1/8" gap between hole and threads.
Is this normal or is my element threads different than the ripp element kal uses?

I'm using this element:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=camco&storeId=10051#.UQbry_JCzwQ

lukez said:

So kal's website says to use a 1 1/4" punch for the element. I tested this hole on a scrap peice of metal and the hole seems alittle large? Looks like the seal covers the hole but still sloppier then I would have imagined. Maybe a 1/8" gap between hole and threads.
Is this normal or is my element threads different than the ripp element kal uses?

I'm using this element:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=camco&storeId=10051#.UQbry_JCzwQ

Click to expand...

What did you use to cut the hole? There are different type punches, if its a conduit punch then it's may be the wrong punch. Should be be 1-1/4" hole, did you measure it? GreenLee 1-1/4" chassis/radio punch not a Conduit punch.

You're right, the hole measures 11/16" not 1 1/4".
Thanks

11/16"? I assume thats a typo since it would be smaller than the element threads. Maybe 1-11/16"? I would be careful mounting an element in a hole that is too big. If the element gets torqued when the seal BARELY seals the outside of that hole, you could get a leak in a very invonvenient place. I have seen one setup where this happened, and the guy took a 1-1/4"-1" bushing (make sure that the element will screw into the bushing deep enough to seal at its seal), and used a silicone gasket and a 1-1/4" NPS nut to make a sort of bulkhead in the keggle, and the element screws into it with its original seal. Overcomplicated, yes, but he had no means of welding/soldering and it works like a charm.

ya I meant 1 11/16". I can't for the life of me find anyone with a radio punch, everyone has conduit punches and I'm not buying one just to make 1 hole.
I'm almost tempted to cut it out with my dremel or make a smaller hole and use the dremel to grind it down the rest of the way.

you would be much better off getting a step bit or a hole saw than using a dremel. Would be hard to make a uniformally round hole with a dremel. You can get a step bit at harbor freight for under $20 and while its not a great bit its certainly good for 1 hole.

lukez said:

ya I meant 1 11/16". I can't for the life of me find anyone with a radio punch, everyone has conduit punches and I'm not buying one just to make 1 hole.
I'm almost tempted to cut it out with my dremel or make a smaller hole and use the dremel to grind it down the rest of the way.

Click to expand...

I'm running into the same problem. There are conduit punches everywhere. I need to make a bunch of holes though, so i'm going to end up eating the cost and buying some.

You can use a step bit. They're not cheap either, but it's better than purchasing a greenlee punch for one hole.

OMJ beat me to it.

1" conduit punch makes the correct size hole (1.25")
I used the cheap harbor freight set. These punches work great on AL or plastic, but their lifespan is limited on SS.

1" conduit punch makes a 1-11/32" hole. Close but still bigger than 1.25".

OMJ said:

1" conduit punch makes a 1-11/32" hole. Close but still bigger than 1.25".

Click to expand...

Good info to have. So, for me, it seems like 3/32 is still a decent gap when dealing with 220 and liquid. Does anyone know what the tolerance is for a kal style element housing/connection? Do the elements fit completely snug in the holes?

Or, ya know, Greenlee 730BB Yeah, it's really expensive, but you know exactly the hole you're going to get. And given the expense of a kettle (not to mention 3) and how much you'd hate to make a hole the wrong size... of course you could make an argument for doing Harbor Freight for the element punch, and Greenlee for the rest of the 1/2 NPT fittings.

OMJ said:

1" conduit punch makes a 1-11/32" hole. Close but still bigger than 1.25".

Click to expand...

For what it's worth, I did a wet test using a hole cut with one if these 1" NPT punches and it will seal properly with the stock rubber gasket that comes with the heater element inside the kettle, but NOT with the method Kal uses.

I'm not sure how food safe that gasket is, but it must be temperature rated, and it does seal.

ya it seams the conduit punches will be good for the other holes (ball valves) but this element hole is an odd ball!

There should be a loaner program for the punch. I just sucked it up and bought one because I like using the right tool for a job. But it would have been nice to just borrow one for the couple holes.

ya another problem I'm having is finding decent prices for all the flanged connectors (l14, l6, l5), I'd like to buy them all in one place but it's near impossible!

naamanf said:

There should be a loaner program for the punch. I just sucked it up and bought one because I like using the right tool for a job. But it would have been nice to just borrow one for the couple holes.

Click to expand...

i think you own this program now

ya I'll pay the shipping to borrow it

Shoot me a PM and we will see what we can do.

I think I might go at it with a step bit and if it doesn't turn out clean I'll have a buddy weld the nut on.

I used my step bit as well. Take your time and it does a good job.

Good luck and just make sure your using a good one with a drill with plenty of torque.

Step bit for sure. I used motor oil for lube and made good holes.

Motor oil might provide good librication for the bit, but i prefer not to use anything with detergents and chemicals i dont want to ingest. (No matter how clean i think i got it later). I used cooking oil, and gave the bit a rest every few steps to prevent it from overheating...but it was going into a keggle, a pot would be a bit easier going.