I always pour my wort straight from the kettle into the fermenter. Been making some lighter IBU batches lately that still some out pretty hoppy. I'm using beersmith so all my numbers should be right. It got me to thinking though, to get accurate numbers should I be filtering out the hop residue from the fermenter? I use pellets. It would make sense that if they sit in there for two weeks while it ferments that some extra bitterness would be added, but I have never read a brew guide that emphasizes doing this.
Filtering Hops
- Thread starter sunblock
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
PassionBeer
Well-Known Member
It all depends. Some people transfer everything from the kettle into the fermenter, some don't. I don't believe it really affects anything, other than having a greater amount of trub in the end.
I agree. Once the hops are boiled, they are "used up", so to speak. Hops oils are only isomerized at boiling temperatures. Once the wort is cooled, they don't impact the wort. The hops just fall to the bottom with the rest of the trub.
If you give us a sample recipe, maybe we can see why it came out a bit too hoppy.
If you give us a sample recipe, maybe we can see why it came out a bit too hoppy.
sunblock
Well-Known Member
Sounds good, but I have dry hopped kegs before, from the same batch and noticed a flavor difference .. if it can do that at 35 degrees, it would make sense that sitting at 68 would do something too, I dont know. I usually brew pretty hoppy beers, just trying to figure out why my 20 IBU blonde comes out tasting like an IPA at times.
sunblock
Well-Known Member
That makes sense to the chemist in me. they are already used up so to speak.
Ah, but dryhopping is different. One, you're using unboiled hops. Two, the beer is already fermented, so you're adding the hops to infuse aroma to already finished beer. Fermenting "blows off" much of the aroma of dryhops, that's why you either add them to secondary or to the tail end of primary.
