Boosting alcohol

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Goldback52

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
12
Reaction score
1
Hey am planning on making my second batch of beer Sunday. Buying an extract kit for a nut brown ale. I have the mr beer kit and was thinking to use their booster in my beer. Says is should boost by 1 percent. What ya think?
 
Leave the Mr. Beer stuff/crap out. If you want to increase the ABV%, then add more DME/extract to get there. You'll probably want to look at the hop additions too, unless you don't care so much as a bit less IBUs in there. Most places that sell kits (and know anything about brewing) will be able to help you hit your goal.
 
Definitely try to maintain balance! I'm gonna guess their booster is some random fermentables, which will in turn drop the body and add booze without adding malt character, bitterness, sweetness, or anything else really. If you want to amp up your beer, do it in a judicious way: more extract, more hops, and yeast to match.

Dropping a bunch of weight on one side of the scale isn't going to keep it balanced.

EDIT: I looked and I guess they've got a good bit of dextrins in there too since they claim it doesn't water down the body. Still, stick with malt extract and don't forget to account for it in the rest of the recipe.
 
Yeah when I buy my kit I'll ask for more malt and hops sounds good to me thanks
 
I am not certain what the booster is but I think it is some sort of enzyme (think beano) that breaks down unfermentable sugars to be converted into more alcohol, so yes you will have more of it but you will have a drier beer too. What do you want?
 
I am not certain what the booster is but I think it is some sort of enzyme (think beano) that breaks down unfermentable sugars to be converted into more alcohol, so yes you will have more of it but you will have a drier beer too. What do you want?

OP posted he was going for a "nut brown ale" for the next batch. With that being the case I wouldn't recommend doing anything that will (or could) make it thinner. Most LHBS' should be able to formulate a higher strength version of a recipe. Especially if they make the kit. Getting more ABV% could be as simple as adding another pound (or so) of DME to the recipe. I would still make sure it's going to be properly balanced (or not too far off) with hops and such. Also, depending on the yeast strain used (especially if using liquid) a starter is advisable. Once you begin making starters for your batches, you'll be getting better beer into your glass.
 
OP posted he was going for a "nut brown ale" for the next batch. With that being the case I wouldn't recommend doing anything that will (or could) make it thinner. Most LHBS' should be able to formulate a higher strength version of a recipe. Especially if they make the kit. Getting more ABV% could be as simple as adding another pound (or so) of DME to the recipe. I would still make sure it's going to be properly balanced (or not too far off) with hops and such. Also, depending on the yeast strain used (especially if using liquid) a starter is advisable. Once you begin making starters for your batches, you'll be getting better beer into your glass.

I know, I saw the style, I asked for the sake of what the brewer wanted out of the beer, not if they wanted it to style. I have a pale going now that I am trying to make it bone dry as I don't like much body if any in that style. 1007-8 is what I'm shooting for. It's all about preference unless your trying to submit it for a comp.
 
I'd way rather have a full body better tasting beer than more alcohol.

Sounds like you're destined to go partial mash soon, and then progress to all grain brewing. :rockin: IMO/IME, those methods are the best way to have more control over the outcome of the batch. To get more ABV, you simply add more base malt to the mash. To get more body, you mash at a higher temperature. :ban: I only did a few extract (with specialty grains) batches, before one partial mash, and then went all grain. You don't need to get a lot of gear, if you don't want to. A couple of decent sized kettles (for your batch size) and BIAB is a good way to start. Little investment that you can't recover (easily) too. I did BIAB for a while, before going through a couple of cooler mash tuns and then making my keg mash tun. :D
 
The booster is corn sugar and maltodextrin. It will add both body and sugar (alcohol).

Be careful what you add. Adding more extract (and booster) will make the beer sweeter tasting. Adding plain sugar will make it drier. Both will upset the balance of the beer (hops), so used in large amounts, will change the beer.
 
Golddiggie said:
Sounds like you're destined to go partial mash soon, and then progress to all grain brewing. :rockin: IMO/IME, those methods are the best way to have more control over the outcome of the batch. To get more ABV, you simply add more base malt to the mash. To get more body, you mash at a higher temperature. :ban: I only did a few extract (with specialty grains) batches, before one partial mash, and then went all grain. You don't need to get a lot of gear, if you don't want to. A couple of decent sized kettles (for your batch size) and BIAB is a good way to start. Little investment that you can't recover (easily) too. I did BIAB for a while, before going through a couple of cooler mash tuns and then making my keg mash tun. :D

I want to do all grain brewing right now but don't think I know enough and don't want to scare my self. My extract brews have all been specialty grains so far thou.
 
The booster is corn sugar and maltodextrin. It will add both body and sugar (alcohol).

Be careful what you add. Adding more extract (and booster) will make the beer sweeter tasting. Adding plain sugar will make it drier. Both will upset the balance of the beer (hops), so used in large amounts, will change the beer.

as a beginner homebrewer I have personally purchased the "booster" and from my memory, the capsule that I got would not add that much to either sugars or malto so my theory is still valid.
 
as a beginner homebrewer I have personally purchased the "booster" and from my memory, the capsule that I got would not add that much to either sugars or malto so my theory is still valid.

I've never used it. I also never used any of the Mr. Beer kits, products, etc. Went from three extract (with specialty grains) batches to one partial mash then all grain ever since. Also made my own recipes from batch #3 forward (including that one). I've been cooking for over 30 years, so brewing was just an extension of that, for me. I very rarely use a recipe (from others) as more than a very loose guide. More often looking it over and modifying it to fit my tastes. I do the same in brewing. Although I've not brewed anything even loosely based on another person's recipe in a long time. IMO, more fun to make one up myself.

I know there are plenty of brewers using the Mr. Beer products. I also know that there are plenty of more brewers that use recipes that are either online, or kits from a HBS. I just can't bring myself to do either. :drunk:
 
I've never used it. I also never used any of the Mr. Beer kits, products, etc. Went from three extract (with specialty grains) batches to one partial mash then all grain ever since. Also made my own recipes from batch #3 forward (including that one). I've been cooking for over 30 years, so brewing was just an extension of that, for me. I very rarely use a recipe (from others) as more than a very loose guide. More often looking it over and modifying it to fit my tastes. I do the same in brewing. Although I've not brewed anything even loosely based on another person's recipe in a long time. IMO, more fun to make one up myself.

I know there are plenty of brewers using the Mr. Beer products. I also know that there are plenty of more brewers that use recipes that are either online, or kits from a HBS. I just can't bring myself to do either. :drunk:

yes I hear you but you as as "pro" in the industry you must understand that the cap full of "dust" that they include to "boost alcohol" is literally an enzyme to convert unconverted starches into convertible sugars right? Anyways, I have no dog in this fight but just posting my honest opinion as a one time customer, a long, long time ago
 
yes I hear you but you as as "pro" in the industry you must understand that the cap full of "dust" that they include to "boost alcohol" is literally an enzyme to convert unconverted starches into convertible sugars right? Anyways, I have no dog in this fight but just posting my honest opinion as a one time customer, a long, long time ago

As I mentioned, never touched the stuff, so don't know what's in it. Don't even know what it looks like. :eek: I do know that I won't use it in my batches though.

If I don't get to my target OG, there's a few things I would do, depending on the brew. But, just as equally, there's some recipes that I'll just let it go. If I miss by just a few points, that won't impact the end product, then I'm more inclined to let it ride. More a follower of the KISS principle. :D
 
As I mentioned, never touched the stuff, so don't know what's in it. Don't even know what it looks like. :eek: I do know that I won't use it in my batches though.

If I don't get to my target OG, there's a few things I would do, depending on the brew. But, just as equally, there's some recipes that I'll just let it go. If I miss by just a few points, that won't impact the end product, then I'm more inclined to let it ride. More a follower of the KISS principle. :D

that is a good philosophy in general certainly :)

I have used an enzyme from time to time ( beano)

I have a big beer early in my career start at 1.120, stall at 1.035, pitch notty, stalled at 1.028, then decided to put in beano, went to 1.024 and started to cool.

I still have a few bottles, a black butte XX clone and while oxidized a little from being 3 years old, it is an amazing beer and scored 42+ in all comps I entered it into........ even with the beano
 
Brewed a barleywine last weekend with an OG of 1.130. Pitched the slurry from the starters (did three starter steps) of WLP099 into it. It's fermenting at about 59F right now in the basement. I'm hoping it doesn't go much above 80% attenuation, so that it has a higher FG. I'd like it to land closer to 1.020 than 1.016 (or below). Won't know for a month, or two, still.

BIG beers are very different animals than the 'normal' beers though. I tend to follow the same philosophy. Chill wort fast (large plate chiller), infuse wort with pure O2 to optimize for OG. Pitch slurry made from yeast starter(s). Give it enough time to ferment fully and/or as I want. Keg and then carbonate when space in brew fridge is available. Use slow forced carbonation method to ensure even carbonation (2 weeks not 2-3 days). Pull pints and enjoy. :D

For the BAMF barleywine (from last weekend) I used about 3x my normal O2 infusion. Took off really well in under 12 hours. Still fermenting well at just over a week.
 
Brewed a barleywine last weekend with an OG of 1.130. Pitched the slurry from the starters (did three starter steps) of WLP099 into it. It's fermenting at about 59F right now in the basement. I'm hoping it doesn't go much above 80% attenuation, so that it has a higher FG. I'd like it to land closer to 1.020 than 1.016 (or below). Won't know for a month, or two, still.

BIG beers are very different animals than the 'normal' beers though. I tend to follow the same philosophy. Chill wort fast (large plate chiller), infuse wort with pure O2 to optimize for OG. Pitch slurry made from yeast starter(s). Give it enough time to ferment fully and/or as I want. Keg and then carbonate when space in brew fridge is available. Use slow forced carbonation method to ensure even carbonation (2 weeks not 2-3 days). Pull pints and enjoy. :D

For the BAMF barleywine (from last weekend) I used about 3x my normal O2 infusion. Took off really well in under 12 hours. Still fermenting well at just over a week.

I am with you, I made a 5g simple pale as my starter for a 11g BW that I will be doing in the very near future. Nice that I get a simple pale out of the deal but even better that I get a 12% BW that I will age for years to come.
 
I'm more inclined to make a two step starter to get my cell count where I need it. Takes little time (a few more days) and I don't need to do anything extra to make sure I'm pitching JUST yeast. Using my 3L flask, it's easy to get enough cells (even if I need to do three starter steps) to ferment pretty much any beer I can brew. IF I was to go with a single step starter, for the TripSix brew I made last weekend, I would have needed more than 20L for the starter.
 
as a beginner homebrewer I have personally purchased the "booster" and from my memory, the capsule that I got would not add that much to either sugars or malto so my theory is still valid.

yes I hear you but you as as "pro" in the industry you must understand that the cap full of "dust" that they include to "boost alcohol" is literally an enzyme to convert unconverted starches into convertible sugars right? Anyways, I have no dog in this fight but just posting my honest opinion as a one time customer, a long, long time ago

The Mr. Beer Booster they are talking about is a white powder that comes in 12 ounce packets, and will increase the OG of a 2 gallon batch by roughly 0.014. I suspect you are confusing it with yeast energizer.
 
The Mr. Beer Booster they are talking about is a white powder that comes in 12 ounce packets, and will increase the OG of a 2 gallon batch by roughly 0.014. I suspect you are confusing it with yeast energizer.

I was wondering about that 'capsule' comment... I know there's some yeast food that's packaged that way. I always thought the 'booster' (from what I've heard) was something more that was added to mr beer batches. I never brewed any of those, so I never saw what was inside the boxes. I do recall a local brewer coming to a meetup gathering, almost two years ago, that only did the mr. beer kits. Stuff was downright nasty. If I recall he used the 'booster' for the recipes he brought. His main purpose was to get F'd up on it, not to drink something tasty. :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top