Refilling CO2 Tanks with Dry Ice?

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I don't like the idea of doing this, but I'm not certain just how dangerous the idea is. A keg isn't really a closed container, since it does have a PRV. Any closed container becomes a dry ice bomb, which can be a felony in some states.

But I'm going to leave it open if the conversation can remain civil. I'm moving this to the brew science forum because I'd like to see some technical discussion on the issue, specifically how much solid CO2 would be required to exceed the safety devices of a keg, assuming zero solubility in the beer. Things like that. There must be some eager guys out there ready to whip out the idea gas law.
 
Any closed container becomes a dry ice bomb, which can be a felony in some states.

Are you serious?!? That's too bad, I feel sorry for kids today! I can't tell you how many 2-liters bottles I sacrificed as a kid. Soooo much fun. We loved to sink them in a 55 gallon drum and blow a 50 foot high column of water.

What are kids supposed to do for fun anymore?!?? :( I suppose my modified potato cannon that shot frozen grapes would also get me arrested now. :ban:
 
Look it up.

Are you serious?!? That's too bad, I feel sorry for kids today! I can't tell you how many 2-liters bottles I sacrificed as a kid. Soooo much fun. We loved to sink them in a 55 gallon drum and blow a 50 foot high column of water.

What are kids supposed to do for fun anymore?!?? :( I suppose my modified potato cannon that shot frozen grapes would also get me arrested now. :ban:
 
there are very limited co2 re fillers in Australia,A welding place would even speak to you. I am not from America. We have BOC and Airliquid who are the 2 major players for refills and few and far between dodgy fillers who wont fill an industrial size,this is why I consider dry ice. Also as mentioned in a previous post I can take the centre valve out which left me with about an inch hole,I filled it with 5kg of dry ice,measured at ice factory,as I got pellets it was an ideal situation,I opened every thing I could as i screwed the valve back into the cylinder. This worked for me ,and remember I am using an industrial tank. I cannot speak for others but it worked for me,if you consider it “dangerous” and stupid don't do it,no one is making you
 
So, just a short story on my experiences...

I have been refilling Soda Stream bottles and my Kegging CO2 bottle (5lb) with 3/8 inch pelletized dry ice for over a year now. Things to watch... make sure you don't pinch your gaskets. Weigh out your dry ice. Use a pressure gauge to make sure you are no where near bursting pressure.

I routinely put 6 lbs of pellets into my 5 lb bottle and wait 20 minutes for a bunch of dry ice to sublimate to gas in order to push the other gasses out the top of the bottle. By then the weight of the bottle + dry ice has lost about 8 ounces, but there is also a ton of frost on the bottle. Then I replace the top valve assembly, open the valve out to the pressure regulator and wait while I watch the pressure slowly build.

My brand new bottle is hydro'd to 1800 psi and I have a relief valve set for 1700psi (which I have verified with a navy calibration facility where I have some friends). The highest pressure I have ever observed is 600 psi. I think there is an adequate safety margin. I haven't done the Boyle's law calculations, but if the pressure was close, I could go back and to the math.

Total cost to fill 4 soda stream bottles and one keg bottle is less than $15.00. It was even cheaper when the next door neighbor worked in a cryo lab and got me the dry ice for free! Oh well, all good things must come to an end.

Do whatever you feel right, but don't be afraid to try new and different things as long as you have placed some risk management into your process.

Good Luck, Andy
 
...My brand new bottle is hydro'd to 1800 psi and I have a relief valve set for 1700psi (which I have verified with a navy calibration facility where I have some friends). The highest pressure I have ever observed is 600 psi...

So I know that if someone wants to do this they are going to, and it sounds like you are taking some very measured approaches to make sure it is done as safely as possible. The only thing I would say is to consider dropping the relief valve setting since the hydros are usually done to ~150% of the design pressure - so that 1800 PSI hydro is for a design pressure of somewhere around the 1200 PSI mark. It is probably getting padantic, but just wanted to bring up that a 1800 PSI hydro is not a guarentee that the tank will hole 1800 PSI. And he likelyhood that you would expect to even get up to that pressure is minimal anyway.
 
here in the US, you need to be a trained professional to fill a CO2 tank safely.
Uh oh.

But on the main idea here one thing that I have not seen mentioned is that if you take the valve out of the tank then air can get into it and air contains moisture and moisture plus CO2 equals carbonic acid which is corrosive. I'm thinking this can't be good for a steel tank. I know that at least one poster said he allows a fair amount of CO2 to escape to purge air before closing the valve but does he get all the moisture? Did any condense on the inside when he added the dry ice?

In filling a bottle from a siphon it is a simple matter to make sure the hose is completely purged of air (and moisture) before the target valve is opened and one, whether he is filling his own bottles or not, should always be sure to leave some pressure in the bottle to prevent incursion of air. IOW one should not store empty CO2 bottles with the valve open.
 
I just did it.

I removed the nozzle from the 5 gallon co2 tank. This was a challenge. I wrapped the tank with duct tape 3 times and put it in my bench vice. Then I used a 30 inch crescent wrench and a lot of muscle and finally got it to turn. The duct tape successfully kept it from slipping and prevented any scratches.

I bought 6.5 pounds of dry ice at the grocery 2 miles down the street for $7.00. I used my band saw to cut it into "sticks" about 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch by about 6 inches and dropped them in the tank. I put all of it in the tank then weighed the tank. It was exactly 5 pounds heavier. That means I lost 1.5 pounds to sublimation between buying it, cutting it up, and putting it in the tank. It was a good guess buying 1.5 pounds extra! I teflon taped the threads and put it back on with the valve open. Tank purging happens by default as the sublimating dry ice is hissing out the open valve as I thread and torque it back on. Then I closed the valve and let it sit for a couple hours. After a while the tank warmed to room temp and you could sense the liquid sloshing in it as you moved it back and forth.

I do wonder exactly what the small amount of water that I know is in there is doing. Obviously the super cold dry ice would have had some water vapor condense on it as I cut it up and stuck it in the tank. I tried turning the tank upside down and opening the nozzle slightly to see if any water came out, but only got a little squirt of liquid co2. I do no know the solubility of liquid co2 and water at 1000 psi. I suspect the water is dissolved into the co2. After I use the tank up I'm going to open it and see if any water is in the tank. I am not really concerned about corrosion as there is so little of it that it would be meaningless. Plus, there isn't any oxygen at all.

This is a huge convenience to me. The only places to get co2 are all the way across town and have 9 to 5 type hours. We're talking basically a 2 hour journey and time away from the office. Plus, when you run out on a weekend you have beer problems.

Now that I did it once, the next time will be easy. Probably less than 10 minutes. Of course you need to have a bench vice, big ass crescent wrench, and band saw. .. or other similarly functioning tools.
 
This whole thread feels dirty to me. The whole country is littered with gas supply sources and if you look hard enough, you'll find fills for around $1 a pound if you start with a 20lb or larger tank. This stuff reminds me of the threads where people were dead set on recovering their fermentation CO2 for use in kegging later.

Find your address in google maps and click "search nearby" and try things like welding supply, beverage supply, fire safety, fire extinguisher.
 
This whole thread feels dirty to me. The whole country is littered with gas supply sources and if you look hard enough, you'll find fills for around $1 a pound if you start with a 20lb or larger tank. This stuff reminds me of the threads where people were dead set on recovering their fermentation CO2 for use in kegging later.

Find your address in google maps and click "search nearby" and try things like welding supply, beverage supply, fire safety, fire extinguisher.

I agree, in a town that takes 2 hours to drive across I would expect more than one gas supplier :D
 
I agree, in a town that takes 2 hours to drive across I would expect more than one gas supplier :D

You can agree, I suppose, but you would be wrong. Curious that you would make such a comment as if you had some authority. There is one home brew shop that refills on-site, that takes me 40 minutes to get to and they are terrible about keeping co2 in stock, charge more, and half the time can't even get your tank to take 5 pounds even if you freeze it. There are quite a few gas/welding/fire suppliers. They are all located in the same industrial section of town that takes 20 minutes to get to on a Sunday, but they aren't open on Sundays. So instead it takes an hour because traffic is horrible. Then you have the miles on the car, my time lost at work, the gas, and the overall frustration of traffic. If you add it up, getting CO2 at one of these places during the week costs me at least $300, requires planning such that usually I can't do it for at least a few days or even a week, and it is always an aggravating experience.
 
That's easy. It's forming corrosive carbonic acid.

I see as a bottom line here that you are getting 5 lbs of CO2 for $7. Why not buy a 50# siphon for less than $1 a pound?

A #50 pound tank and a siphon setup? The whole idea here was to make my life easier, and that is not it. It's not like I'm using #5 a week or something.

You may be correct about carbonic acid, but do you actually know this? Certainly you get carbonic acid, a weak acid, when you dissolve a small amount of gaseous co2 at atmospheric pressure into a large amount of water. But this is very different. We are talking about a very small amount of water into a large amount of liquid co2 at 800psi. The chemistry is likely very different. I would be curious to hear what an actual chemist says about this. If the carbonic acid does form and is able to dissolve some iron, it would be a self limited process since there is no additional source of negative ions necessary to keep the fe in solution. But is iron even capable of being held in a solution with liquid co2 as the solvent?
 
You can agree, I suppose, but you would be wrong. Curious that you would make such a comment as if you had some authority. There is one home brew shop that refills on-site, that takes me 40 minutes to get to and they are terrible about keeping co2 in stock, charge more, and half the time can't even get your tank to take 5 pounds even if you freeze it. There are quite a few gas/welding/fire suppliers. They are all located in the same industrial section of town that takes 20 minutes to get to on a Sunday, but they aren't open on Sundays. So instead it takes an hour because traffic is horrible. Then you have the miles on the car, my time lost at work, the gas, and the overall frustration of traffic. If you add it up, getting CO2 at one of these places during the week costs me at least $300, requires planning such that usually I can't do it for at least a few days or even a week, and it is always an aggravating experience.

So there is another place you just don't want to use it. Just out of curiousity how much are they charging for CO2 at the LHBS and do they charge you for 5# even though you don't get 5#?
Have you considered picking up anyther 5# tank (or even a 10/20#) so you have a buffer to organise to get it filled.

I was not saying that you were wrong just that I would expect that someone would of taken the oportunity to grab all those customers on your side of town who have to drive a 2 hour round trip to get gas bottles. I know a lot would probably have them delivered/picked up - in that case is there any chance you can drop it off somehwere closer that gets delivered to regularly.
Hell - even if they only swapped gas bottles all they would need is a secure place to store them... maybe ask if your LHBS would consider holding a few tanks for swap?
 
A #50 pound tank and a siphon setup? The whole idea here was to make my life easier, and that is not it. It's not like I'm using #5 a week or something.

I suppose it depends on your definition of simple. To me connecting one end of a cryo tube to the siphon bottle and the other to the bottle that is being filled and opening the valves is appreciably easier than taking the valve out of the bottle and stuffing in dry ice. If I thought doing the latter were simpler I would do that. I don't look for extra work. Not to mention assured corrosion of the interior of the tank if it is steel. Perhaps aluminum tanks are more resistant. Even when refilling properly (from a liquid source) one is advised to purge the line of air and to never store a bottle with the valve open to the air - both to prevent incursion of moisture.

You may be correct about carbonic acid, but do you actually know this?
Is the pope catholic?

Certainly you get carbonic acid, a weak acid, when you dissolve a small amount of gaseous co2 at atmospheric pressure into a large amount of water. But this is very different.
It is? Only in the sense that high CO2 pressure causes a lot more gas to dissolve, a lot more carbonic to form and a lot more hydrogen ions to be released.


We are talking about a very small amount of water into a large amount of liquid co2 at 800psi.
We are talking about a bottle that is 4/5 full of liquid CO2 initially and eventually full of CO2 gas only. If any moisture condenses the chemistry is exactly the same except that the pressures are higher so more CO2 dissolves releasing more hydrogen ions to corrode the metal.

The chemistry is likely very different. I would be curious to hear what an actual chemist says about this.
You can do a Google search on 'carbonic acid corrosion' or read the paper to which a link was posted above.


If the carbonic acid does form and is able to dissolve some iron, it would be a self limited process since there is no additional source of negative ions necessary to keep the fe in solution.

As long as CO2 is present it dissolves and dissociates providing bicarbonate and carbonate ions both of which are anions.

But is iron even capable of being held in a solution with liquid co2 as the solvent?
Apparently it is but assume that it isn't. The corrosion would then be limited initially to the head space which, as noted above, becomes 100% as the liquid boils off.
 
First off, I don't think anyone should do this trick. I get it, expense, hassle, [Dallas? Houston?] traffic is crazy bad.. but we're talking about metal cans here. They get brittle at cold temps, especially when the temp happens suddenly.

Very curious to hear what a Mech-E or metallurgist has to say about that.

I'm a chemist too, and this is a really interesting "reverse chemistry" problem. Does the water get dissolved? Does the CO2 get wet?
...high CO2 pressure causes a lot more gas to dissolve, a lot more carbonic to form and a lot more hydrogen ions to be released.... We are talking about a bottle that is 4/5 full of liquid CO2 initially and eventually full of CO2 gas only. If any moisture condenses the chemistry is exactly the same except that the pressures are higher so more CO2 dissolves releasing more hydrogen ions to corrode the metal.
... As long as CO2 is present it dissolves and dissociates providing bicarbonate and carbonate ions both of which are anions. ... The corrosion would then be limited initially to the head space which, as noted above, becomes 100% as the liquid boils off.
I can't see the amount of condensed water being all that high. The Australian guy lives in a desert, no worries mate (except for that whole "inconvenient embrittled shrapnel" thing, see PS and PPS below). But let's imagine the worst case scenario for the Texan: lives in Houston, keeps his thermostat at 65 in the summer (Like my sister) and he's a mouth breather. (like me.) So in his garage liquid water is condensing inside the can before the dry ice goes inside. And let's do some crazy rounding and say it's 0.5 mL water total.

Usually acid chemistry is "ion in water" but this is more like "water in ion". The key question is chemical activity--how will it change when water is dilute in high pressure liquid CO2? Active enough to react with a stainless surface? (BTW I'm discounting Al2O3 as inert but could something weird be going on to make Al2O3 suddenly more reactive?) The simple dissociation equation is one water plus one CO2 gives one H2CO3 but more than likely a hydrate complex forms--I mean, CO2-ate. Maybe multiple 2x HCO3-(CO2)5.. Not sure. But my guess is that the activity is reduced, and that the mixture isn't measureably more oxidizing than liquid CO2.

I tried googling for some frakking info, & supercritical CO2 extraction vessles. Seems like stainless is very common for extraction. Would love to hear from some deep sea drillers though.. but I doubt rust is an issue.


PS to everyone who's done this refill method: could you set up a computer to automatically post "Well I died, probably it was the dry ice thing" unless you log in once a year to snooze it? I suggest to you that the stress & strain of sudden cooling is additive, meaning it gets worse the more you do it. First few time could work fine, then... well, it only takes the one time for it to fail.

PPS That reminds me, one more request: don't let it come to pressure in the presence of mammals. Ensure there's one or more stone walls between mammals and the bomb, I mean tank, once you close the lid. ... I don't care about birds, fish, insects--we have lots of those, and besides they're often fast and nimble enough to be OK and they look at you with those emotionless little eyes. Bleh. But mammals deserve a stone wall layer, at least. Especially mammals you love. Thanks
 
There are now two of you arguing either that water isn't soluble in CO2 liquid or that the chemistry isn't the same when CO2 is the solvent and water the solute. I don't doubt the latter and even the paper cited in the previous post indicates that water isn't very soluble in CO2. Let's accept that. The remaining problem that I see it is that bottle is never full of liquid and is, eventually, though still under substantial CO2 pressure, completely devoid of liquid. Any water that condenses (and I grant you that will be less in Alice Springs than in the rain forrest) will condense on bare steel while under a partial pressure of CO2 of 50 bar or so. Common sense says that if enough hydrogen ion is released at 0.0003 bar to dissolve limestone enough may very well be released at 50 bar to dissolve some steel (though we do note that the fugacity coefficient does start to roll off above about 10 bar.

And yes, carbon dioxide does form a hydrate. The usual Henry coefficient of about 10^-1.41 expresses the relationship between PaCO2 and concentration of H2CO3* with the star indicating the sum of hydrated CO2 and carbonic acid. Most is in the dissolved form. The equilibrium constant for CO2(aq) <--> H2CO3 is a approximately 1/600 (IOW there are about 600 molecules of CO2(aq) for every molecule of carbonic acid. Similarly the equilibrium constant of 10^-6.28 is for the reaction H2CO3* <--> H+ + HCO3- though many books do not make this clear. Using the usual Henry coefficient and usual first dissociation coefficient you do not need to consider the existence of CO2(aq). It is accounted for in their values.

More to the point: if you do a bit of a search on the subject you will find many references to the fact that carbonic acid solutions are corrosive. In many of these it is noted that formation of FeCO3 can protect the steel to some extent.
 
Wow. How did I miss this thread the first time around? I'll never understand why some home brewers are just downright cheap. I mean we all want to spend our money wisely but this is just flat out ridiculous and dangerous. Just because something can be done doesn't mean that it should be done. The Darwin Awards are regularly stocked with stories of similar penny wise pound foolish ventures.


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Hiya! I didn't want to write back until I had something intelligent to say. Sorry for the delay, folks!

And may I also add, Dr AJ is a boon to this forum--everyone should read the sticky on water for brewing. Very beneficial, generous, and spot on.

So it is with much respect and humility that I dare suggest that in this one case--specifically, the risk analysis assessment of cylinder failure due to repeated dry-ice refills--that AJ may be somewhat inaccurate in suggesting acid erosion as being more important than temp-cycle embrittlement of metal. And for my part, I'll try and be civil & non-condescending (non-condensing? :) ) & stuff, as if we were at the table sharing a brew. :mug:
I do reserve the right to be silly, because, well, life is too short not to be silly. :fro:
More to the point: if you do a bit of a search on the subject you will find many references to the fact that carbonic acid solutions are corrosive.
:) Never contending that CO2 in water wasn't acidic, just wondering how much water could be in the cylinder with the liquid CO2.

The paper is an interesting read, though I often found it confusing keeping track of when a figure was "CO2 in water" vs "water in CO2", especially in Figure 9, perhaps* the most pertinent to this item, they call the former "Water-rich phase" and the later "CO2-rich". Holy rusted phraseology, Batman! But the discussion in Section 4 helps.

*Figure 9 describes the erosion rates of carbon steel under different conditions. The black line says that water saturated in liquid CO2 erodes at about 0.2 millimeters per year at almost any pressure. This is a projection after 24 hours of exposure at 50C. (Maybe it's that hot in a shed in Australia right this moment. And although error bars in measuring erosion thickness tend to matter when you multiply by 365, I'm too lazy to dig in to estimate how big they might be in this case. ... ) So 0.2 mm/yr could be worrisome for a thin walled tank, or after 5-10 years (or less) of a normal tank, but that was never my point.

As AJ mentioned, water saturation isn't very high. Previously, I was suggesting--based on a guess--that any adhered water would be even less than saturation. Per Figure 2, saturation for our case is about mole_fraction=.003 at 950psi=65.5 bar. (Lower at room temp, but let's use the highest arguable value.) 5 lbs = 2.3 kgs liquid CO2, molecular weight 44.1 g/mol leads to 52 mols. .003 of that is .15 moles, 18 g/mol = 2.8g. I roughly estimated 0.5 mL = 0.5 g under Houston mouth breather conditions, let's say it's more like 1 mL. That's still a third of max solubility. At 25C it's lower. And I rounded up a lot here.

& Hey: before our cheap, I mean thrifty, thread readers sigh in relief that they have 15-30 years before the corrosion explodes their beloved mammals, please note that a) I still think you have much less time than that due to the rapid cryo/room temp cycling and b) that's a 15 year error window. 15 years waiting for your bomb-in-waiting to explode is really long & frankly f-ed up. I mean, you might as well start smoking crack. And besides, you've missed point c), which has something to do with assuming that the published proposed self-limiting mechanism of passivating FeCO3 crystals still holds at lower concentrations. It might not, and AJ might be right.

So there's that.

Either way, don't do it.
 
--specifically, the risk analysis assessment of cylinder failure due to repeated dry-ice refills--that AJ may be somewhat inaccurate in suggesting acid erosion as being more important than temp-cycle embrittlement of metal.

I didn't mean to suggest that it was a more important factor or even the most important factor, just that it is a factor.
 
...& Hey: before our cheap, I mean thrifty, thread readers sigh in relief that they have 15-30 years before the corrosion explodes their beloved mammals, please note that a) I still think you have much less time than that due to the rapid cryo/room temp cycling and b) that's a 15 year error window. 15 years waiting for your bomb-in-waiting to explode is really long & frankly f-ed up. I mean, you might as well start smoking crack. And besides, you've missed point c), which has something to do with assuming that the published proposed self-limiting mechanism of passivating FeCO3 crystals still holds at lower concentrations. It might not, and AJ might be right.

So there's that.

Either way, don't do it.

Good post - I'm just waiting for the following reply now:
I've fill my tank with dry ice 3 times now, and it has never exploded. Therefore it must be safe. All you guys are just being pussies
:tank:
 
Well this is interesting stuff. I don't buy into the .2mm per year thing since that requires an ongoing supply of reagents. Unless the water only acts as a catalyst. But that isn't the case and if it were, then even a microscopic amount of water would do the trick and we know for certain that all CO2 tanks have at least a microscopic amount of water in them.

I would also be curious to know how much water is in the liquid CO2 you buy at the welding shop. I am sure it isn't perfectly dry.

Also, I muse about putting a drying agent in the canister. Perhaps dry silica? Not gonna do it since I don't know what other reactions it might make happen, but just a muse.

And lastly, life is all about relative risk. Sitting here at my computer (far away from CO2 tank) carries all kinds of risks. A plane could land on my head. Anyway, I think that my annual risk of death from getting in my car and driving to work exceeds my annual risk of death from my CO2 tank. Hard to say.

Either way, I will stick a scope in the tank when I use it up and see if there is any visual evidence of damage. Of course I don't have a baseline.

Also, just a curious observation. A 5# CO2 tank has a lot of room in it. When filled with dry ice, it looked like it might be half full, hard to say, I just looked in with my eyeball and no light, but it was far from full. And the dry ice was in big long "sticks" that I just tossed in, so it was not efficiently packed.
 
I suppose it depends on your definition of simple. To me connecting one end of a cryo tube to the siphon bottle and the other to the bottle that is being filled and opening the valves is appreciably easier than taking the valve out of the bottle and stuffing in dry ice. If I thought doing the latter were simpler I would do that. I don't look for extra work. Not to mention assured corrosion of the interior of the tank if it is steel. Perhaps aluminum tanks are more resistant. Even when refilling properly (from a liquid source) one is advised to purge the line of air and to never store a bottle with the valve open to the air - both to prevent incursion of moisture.

Is the pope catholic?

It is? Only in the sense that high CO2 pressure causes a lot more gas to dissolve, a lot more carbonic to form and a lot more hydrogen ions to be released.


We are talking about a bottle that is 4/5 full of liquid CO2 initially and eventually full of CO2 gas only. If any moisture condenses the chemistry is exactly the same except that the pressures are higher so more CO2 dissolves releasing more hydrogen ions to corrode the metal.

You can do a Google search on 'carbonic acid corrosion' or read the paper to which a link was posted above.




As long as CO2 is present it dissolves and dissociates providing bicarbonate and carbonate ions both of which are anions.

Apparently it is but assume that it isn't. The corrosion would then be limited initially to the head space which, as noted above, becomes 100% as the liquid boils off.

Your comments would seem to be indicating you are not a chemist.

For example, the anions provided by the carbonate run out. There is no ongoing source of negative ions and therefore it is a self limited reaction. That is why I said "self limiting reaction". It runs out of stuff.

For example, you speak of the head space. Does carbonic acid exist in a gas form? I don't believe so. Under normal (room temp/normal atmosphere) circumstances, it dissociates to co2 gas and water, it doesn't evaporate. Perhaps after all of the co2 liquid is gone, there might be a drop of liquid water left in the bottom of the bottle and we might see some rust spots where the drops of water are sitting. But this is what happens when exposed to room air with 80/20 N2/O2, not 100% co2. Now I suppose if your tank is empty and you leave the valve open you will eventually have it full of room air.

For example, H2CO3 <-> H+ + HCO3- is the reaction. This goes both ways. For corrosion to occur, it needs to be toward the right, it's the hydrogen ion that does the damage. So, what is the solubility of H+ and HCO3- in liquid CO2. Water is polar, so you can get lots of cations and anions floating about, but CO2 is non-polar, so I think you would see this reaction existing far to the left. I am not a chemist, but it would seem that you aren't one either. This is why I say that the chemistry of small amounts of water in large amounts of CO2 can't just be assumed to be the same as the opposite. The same logic holds for the Fe cations. To be removed from the wall of the tank, they have to go somewhere, and dissolving them into a non-polar liquid seems unlikely.
 
So someone who has 5 posts and has been a member of the forum for two weeks is questioning the skills and training of A.J deLange. Wow. Here is Mr. deLange's bio from the 2013 Master Brewers Association of America conference where he presented.

A. J. deLange is a retired electrical engineer with more than
40 years of experience in signal processing, RF engineering, estimation, and analysis. He is also a home brewer with more than 25 years of experience who has particularly enjoyed applying the disciplines of his professional life to his hobby.
He has a keen interest in brewing water chemistry and beer color analysis and has published and lectured on those subjects in the United States and abroad. He is a member of MBAA
and ASBC. He has undergraduate and graduate degrees
in electrical engineering from Cornell University and was employed by Zeta Associates in Fairfax, VA. He consults for Mad Fox Brewing Company in Falls Church, VA.



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This seems to be a VERY technical topic. There shouldn't be any reason for personal insults of any kind. I'm sure there are other like me who are strictly interested in the science of the topic, not the extraneous and unnecessary personal comments.
 
Your comments would seem to be indicating you are not a chemist.

I took (and passed) Chem 101 and 102.

For example, the anions provided by the carbonate run out.
Anions provided by the carbonate? Carbonate is an anion as is bicarbonate.


There is no ongoing source of negative ions and therefore it is a self limited reaction. That is why I said "self limiting reaction". It runs out of stuff.

A long as there is CO2 gas and water

CO2 + H20 <--> H+ + HCO3- <---> 2H+ + CO3--

The hydrogen ions corrode the iron

Fe + 2H+ <--> Fe++ + H2

And then insoluble FeCO3 forms.

The net reaction is

CO2 + H2O ---> FeCO3 + H2

When the water runs out, the process will stop but as long as water is present it will proceed to the right as FeCO3 will precipitate and hydrogen gas will escape the solution. The referenced paper suggested that the deposition of the carbonate might protect the steel from further attack. If that happens before the water is consumed the reaction would also stop. As long as there is water and CO2 there is a 'source of negative ions'.


For example, you speak of the head space. Does carbonic acid exist in a gas form? I don't believe so. Under normal (room temp/normal atmosphere) circumstances, it dissociates to co2 gas and water, it doesn't evaporate. Perhaps after all of the co2 liquid is gone, there might be a drop of liquid water left in the bottom of the bottle and we might see some rust spots where the drops of water are sitting.
The premise here is that as water does not apparently dissolve to any great extent in CO2 that most of the water will be in the head space in the form of vapor. If we could insure that it stayed as vapor then the discussion would be different but the fear is that it will, under certain circumstances, condense. It is in this condensed water that head space corrosion would take place. Of course if we could insure that no water were introduced when the dry ice is placed in the bottle then we wouldn't have to worry about any of this but in this climate, at least, dry ice is covered with frost in a flash.

But this is what happens when exposed to room air with 80/20 N2/O2, not 100% co2.
Under higher CO2 pressure the reaction is pushed to the right (LeChatelier's Principle).



For example, H2CO3 <-> H+ + HCO3- is the reaction. This goes both ways. For corrosion to occur, it needs to be toward the right, it's the hydrogen ion that does the damage.
I gave the corrosion equations (or hypothesized, simplified, ones) above. As both the products, FeCO3 and H2 are removed from the liquid the reaction proceeds to the right (Le Chatelier again).

So, what is the solubility of H+ and HCO3- in liquid CO2. Water is polar, so you can get lots of cations and anions floating about, but CO2 is non-polar, so I think you would see this reaction existing far to the left.
Again, with reference to the article, apparently water is not very soluble in liquid CO2 and that's why I chose to focus on the head space but, as above, the equilibrium would lie where the thermodynamics say it would and Le Chatelier woiuld give you a clue as to where that would be.

I am not a chemist, but it would seem that you aren't one either.
Guess not.

This is why I say that the chemistry of small amounts of water in large amounts of CO2 can't just be assumed to be the same as the opposite.
I am not assuming that. Apparently you missed the part where I said, in more than one post, essentially 'Forget the liquid part - worry about the head space.'


The same logic holds for the Fe cations. To be removed from the wall of the tank, they have to go somewhere, and dissolving them into a non-polar liquid seems unlikely.
My thesis is that they go into Ferric carbonate scale and that is apparently where they do go even in the parts of the bottle containing liquid.
 
I took (and passed) Chem 101 and 102.

Anions provided by the carbonate? Carbonate is an anion as is bicarbonate.




A long as there is CO2 gas and water

CO2 + H20 <--> H+ + HCO3- <---> 2H+ + CO3--

The hydrogen ions corrode the iron

Fe + 2H+ <--> Fe++ + H2

And then insoluble FeCO3 forms.

The net reaction is

CO2 + H2O ---> FeCO3 + H2

When the water runs out, the process will stop but as long as water is present it will proceed to the right as FeCO3 will precipitate and hydrogen gas will escape the solution. The referenced paper suggested that the deposition of the carbonate might protect the steel from further attack. If that happens before the water is consumed the reaction would also stop. As long as there is water and CO2 there is a 'source of negative ions'.



The premise here is that as water does not apparently dissolve to any great extent in CO2 that most of the water will be in the head space in the form of vapor. If we could insure that it stayed as vapor then the discussion would be different but the fear is that it will, under certain circumstances, condense. It is in this condensed water that head space corrosion would take place. Of course if we could insure that no water were introduced when the dry ice is placed in the bottle then we wouldn't have to worry about any of this but in this climate, at least, dry ice is covered with frost in a flash.

Under higher CO2 pressure the reaction is pushed to the right (LeChatelier's Principle).



I gave the corrosion equations (or hypothesized, simplified, ones) above. As both the products, FeCO3 and H2 are removed from the liquid the reaction proceeds to the right (Le Chatelier again).


Again, with reference to the article, apparently water is not very soluble in liquid CO2 and that's why I chose to focus on the head space but, as above, the equilibrium would lie where the thermodynamics say it would and Le Chatelier woiuld give you a clue as to where that would be.

Guess not.

I am not assuming that. Apparently you missed the part where I said, in more than one post, essentially 'Forget the liquid part - worry about the head space.'


My thesis is that they go into Ferric carbonate scale and that is apparently where they do go even in the parts of the bottle containing liquid.

Not a chemist either, I did go through the full spectrum of inorganic, organic, and bio chem. But by no means does that make me an expert especially 25 years later.

In short, I do believe we agree. In the worst case scenario, all of the water donates its O to CO3 which forms Iron Carbonate. So the question is, how much water? . . . maybe be a gram (cc)? Basically that means something in the neighborhood of 3 grams of iron. That isn't much out of 10,000 grams that a bottle weighs. But I would very much doubt it ever gets to the 100% conversion.

Another consideration, some part of the water that got into the bottle is going to be held in the bottle as water vapor. That will exit with the CO2 as it is used.

As I look at this, I am more worried about how much iron is lost off of the outside of the bottle. The bottom of these are always covered in rust.
 
...As I look at this, I am more worried about how much iron is lost off of the outside of the bottle. The bottom of these are always covered in rust.

That is a valid point - as part of a refill the filler must visually inspect the cylinder for signs of damage. If someone is continously doing this at home and never getting a qualified person to inspect the cylinder (or worse case keep the hydrotest in date) then there is a risk that could potential end very badly.
End of the day cylinders have exploded and that is why we have qulified people tasked with inspecting and NDT'ing them to reduce the risk of them exploding with the potential to hurt/kill someone or damge property.
 
Not a chemist either, I did go through the full spectrum of inorganic, organic, and bio chem. But by no means does that make me an expert especially 25 years later.
Howdy! Just wanted to add I had all those classes and more: degrees, diplomas that say Chemistry, lots of letters after my name, publications (etc) ...and they don't make you an expert!! That title is earned via experience, it seems like the folks with the most experience on this thread are all saying "Don't risk the dry ice refill trick."

AJ may be on to something about the headspace... especially if the tank sits on the shelf most of the time. With the scope it may also be difficult to distinguish a ring from a reflection or machine mark/bend. And it wouldn't look like rust (iron oxide), it's corrosion due to acid, and FeCO3 is kind of sand-like.

Check out this a report about a cylinder explosion at Texas A&M, with photos. ('cause experts enjoy photos too!) :p Note, this was a huge liquid nitrogen tank (meaning the inside was always dry) that someone had plugged up the relief valve, but the pressures are actually lower than the CO2 tanks.. I got my undergrad degree there and that is the old historic 1928 wing, which was built to be used before central air. They tended to overdo it with rebar and concrete back then (the Academic Building is famously overbuilt) and I think the top would have escaped the roof of most buildings, or even the more recent additions of the chem building. ... How many mammals died? :confused: We'll never know. We were sleeping.

Cryo cycle metal fatigue: I'm still waiting to hear from a metallurgist, the research paper I've found for free seems inconclusive..
 
Was considering how much water gets in the tank. I think the answer to that is very very small. After watching some dry ice evaporate and thinking about what happens, it would appear that water vapor does not condense on the surface of dry ice. It only condenses on things that it might be touching that get cold and are exposed to air. The dry ice surface is constantly sublimating with a result cushion of dry CO2 gas surrounding it such that water vapor in the air will never touch it. Furthermore, it is a disappearing surface. If water vapor were to come in contact with it, it would condense and the heat of condensation would immediately sublimate the surface it attached to it and the ice crystal would fall off.

So, you might consider the air that is in the tank and its water vapor and suspect that some of it might condense on the chilled metal. This wouldn't be much, but I would argue you aren't even going to get that. As you put the first piece of dry ice into the tank you get relatively rapid flow of gas out of the tank purging the room air along with the water vapor.

Next time I get some dry ice I'll put it in a pressure cooker and let it evaporate in there. As soon as the gas stops flowing out the relief hole in the top, I'll open it and see if there is any water condensed. I bet there won't be. Not exactly the same as putting dry ice into a bottle, but pretty similar and easily inspected.
 
So, just a short story on my experiences...

I have been refilling Soda Stream bottles and my Kegging CO2 bottle (5lb) with 3/8 inch pelletized dry ice for over a year now. Things to watch... make sure you don't pinch your gaskets. Weigh out your dry ice. Use a pressure gauge to make sure you are no where near bursting pressure.

I routinely put 6 lbs of pellets into my 5 lb bottle and wait 20 minutes for a bunch of dry ice to sublimate to gas in order to push the other gasses out the top of the bottle. By then the weight of the bottle + dry ice has lost about 8 ounces, but there is also a ton of frost on the bottle. Then I replace the top valve assembly, open the valve out to the pressure regulator and wait while I watch the pressure slowly build.

My brand new bottle is hydro'd to 1800 psi and I have a relief valve set for 1700psi (which I have verified with a navy calibration facility where I have some friends). The highest pressure I have ever observed is 600 psi. I think there is an adequate safety margin. I haven't done the Boyle's law calculations, but if the pressure was close, I could go back and to the math.

Total cost to fill 4 soda stream bottles and one keg bottle is less than $15.00. It was even cheaper when the next door neighbor worked in a cryo lab and got me the dry ice for free! Oh well, all good things must come to an end.

Do whatever you feel right, but don't be afraid to try new and different things as long as you have placed some risk management into your process.

Good Luck, Andy

So, my circumstances have changed...

First: I call BS on the "You have to be a trained professional" line.... They have 16-18 year old kids filling CO2 bottles at the sporting good stores. Trained... maybe. Professional... No way!

Second: Lots of chemistry talk about steel bottles and balanced equations using Iron as a base reagent.... Not to much about Aluminum and nothing about how steel has very different oxidation properties than Iron and Iron Oxide.

Third: I also call BS on the "Thermal Shock" Argument. -109F is cold, but not liquid nitrogen cold (-321F). Also, since the bottles are not being HEATED (FIRE + temps) and THEN FROZEN, they are not becoming more brittle. Room temp followed by frozen temps doesn't change the crystaline lattice work of the metal.

Finally: I stopped doing this. I started doing this to save money. Now that I don't have a free dry ice source, I performed an analysis of alternatives. 5lb CO2 Bottle = $26 in the DC area at Roberts Oxygen. 20lb Bottle of CO2 = $27 at Roberts Oxygen. (I can't believe it is only a dollar difference!)

I ditched the 5lb bottle and now work with the 20lb bottle. 20lbs of dry ice would be $40, so buying bottled gas is now the cheapest alternative, so.... here I am.

Good Luck To All:

Andy
 
So, my circumstances have changed...

First: I call BS on the "You have to be a trained professional" line.... They have 16-18 year old kids filling CO2 bottles at the sporting good stores. Trained... maybe. Professional... No way!

Second: Lots of chemistry talk about steel bottles and balanced equations using Iron as a base reagent.... Not to much about Aluminum and nothing about how steel has very different oxidation properties than Iron and Iron Oxide.

Third: I also call BS on the "Thermal Shock" Argument. -109F is cold, but not liquid nitrogen cold (-321F). Also, since the bottles are not being HEATED (FIRE + temps) and THEN FROZEN, they are not becoming more brittle. Room temp followed by frozen temps doesn't change the crystaline lattice work of the metal.

Finally: I stopped doing this. I started doing this to save money. Now that I don't have a free dry ice source, I performed an analysis of alternatives. 5lb CO2 Bottle = $26 in the DC area at Roberts Oxygen. 20lb Bottle of CO2 = $27 at Roberts Oxygen. (I can't believe it is only a dollar difference!)

I ditched the 5lb bottle and now work with the 20lb bottle. 20lbs of dry ice would be $40, so buying bottled gas is now the cheapest alternative, so.... here I am.

Good Luck To All:

Andy

1) They are still taking the responsibility of inspecting the bottle before filling - if one was to explode I would be my life savings the OSHA would be contacting the last company and person that filled that bottle and running them over the coals!
2)Pretty sure steel is just Iron with some carbon in it - corrosion is still iron oxides. Al comes in many different grades but one thing is sure for both steel and al cylinders - they will have a minimal design metal temperature and for gas bottles that are stored and used at room temperature this would not be very low so the designer doesn't have to over-engineer for something that most likely will not happen (and definitely will not happen if the cylinder is used as per its design)
3)The bottles are going through a cycle of being heated and then frozen. Steel does become brittle at low temperature, for low temperature pressure vessels the designer has to be careful with the materials selected. Materials also expand and contract with regards to temperature, allowing for crack propagation - you might be the unlucky guy that ended up with the cylinder with a crack with a critical size that meant 100+ fills before catastrophic failure and normal liquid filling temperatures and would be "caught" by a 5 year hydrotest to one that fails after only a few dry ice fills because of the increase thermal stress/strain. Again if you are designing for a particular case of room temp why use a material the is good for much lower temperatures than you need to all it would do is increase the cost.
 
Keep in mind that a CO2 canister (or any compressed gas cannister) has to have low temp consideration in its design. Simply opening the nozzle on a CO2 canister will plunge its temperature much faster than throwing some dry ice in there. They would have to consider that as a possibility. In fact, the guys at the filling place will do that as a way to chill the tank.

These things do explode. Like maybe one in the world per year or something like that. These things are on trucks that get in accidents, get dropped from crazy places, so on and so forth. They really aren't delicate. I want to say I saw a myth buster where they had to use special armor piercing bullets to "pop" compressed canisters.

Relative risk is the word here. Who knows the exact number, but I bet this is far from the most dangerous thing I do in my life. I bet sailing my boat is waaaaay more dangerous and no one calls me crazy for doing that. People put things way out of perspective, like the person who smokes but worries about fluoride in their drinking water. I could come up with a million examples.

Plus, I enjoy the experimentation and also enjoy all of this "arguing". It is just fun, I don't take it personal and I no one else should. Everyone learns this way and can do what they will with it.

Plus, I am quite certain that when I do my little experiment and open up that pressure cooker, I'll find a completely empty/dry container.
 
Oh man, I've been away for a while and this thread has really been going! To assuage any fears, I'm still here will all my limbs intact. I decided not to try this because it just seemed like too much risk to take, and I found a decent price for refills.
 
Glad y'all are still here. Interesting to hear that refills are competitive in price..

I'll continue in case some microbrews or enthusiasts are still considering. I think this whole topic is analogous to what Tenacious D said on Track 12 of their first record: "One is all you need." ... ah yes. Applies to explosions at home, too.

It's all about acceptable risk and likelihood. ... And for the jaded, the blame/insurance/CYA-ability.
Third: I also call BS on the "Thermal Shock" Argument. -109F is cold, but not liquid nitrogen cold (-321F). Also, since the bottles are not being HEATED (FIRE + temps) and THEN FROZEN, they are not becoming more brittle. Room temp followed by frozen temps doesn't change the crystaline lattice work of the metal.
Would still love for a mechanical engineer or materials testing engineer to shoot down my reasoning here.

The cooling/chilling at the nozzle upon expansion will chill the internal cylinder layer from top to bottom, in a fairly symmetric pattern across the cylinder. This has been safety tested--it constitutes normal operation. In contrast, the chilling & temperature gradient I worry about is due to the localized points of contact between the inner cylinder and the dry ice, especially if on one side of the cylinder. Compare the two patterns of temperature swing and the dry ice refill will have a more tightly confined & less symmetric pattern. Tighter gradient = higher localized stress due to thermal expansion = growing cracks, Hooray!

True dat about heated fire temps; I contend that repetition counts for something. Repeated occurrences from warm room to dry ice temps will have a less exaggerated (but still worrisome) effect on the metal lattice. Like my thermo prof used to say: randomness happens. The much heftier TAMU cylinder linked earlier was compromised due to repeated refills. Don't freeze me bro!
 
5lb CO2 Bottle = $26 in the DC area at Roberts Oxygen. 20lb Bottle of CO2 = $27 at Roberts Oxygen. (I can't believe it is only a dollar difference!)

The difference in price is probably because they refill the 5# manually on-demand, whereas the 20# are refilled en-masse by a technician.

MC
 
No, Roberts sends them all off to a central location to be filled and swaps your empty for a full one when you go into one of their outlets. It's economy of scale. I've never been to one of Roberts central locations but I'd be willing to bet a couple of beers that the tech inspects the bottle (for hydro stamp), puts it on a scale, attaches a cryo tube, opens the valve on the tank, pushes 'start' and walks away to set up another bottle while the machine fills this one. Thus he can do as many 20 pounders in an hour as he can 5 pounders and their labor costs per pound are 25% for a 20 lb fill of what they are in a 5 pound fill. Go up to the next size (50 lbs) and CO2 is less than a buck a pound.
 
No, Roberts sends them all off to a central location to be filled and swaps your empty for a full one when you go into one of their outlets. It's economy of scale. I've never been to one of Roberts central locations but I'd be willing to bet a couple of beers that the tech inspects the bottle (for hydro stamp), puts it on a scale, attaches a cryo tube, opens the valve on the tank, pushes 'start' and walks away to set up another bottle while the machine fills this one. Thus he can do as many 20 pounders in an hour as he can 5 pounders and their labor costs per pound are 25% for a 20 lb fill of what they are in a 5 pound fill. Go up to the next size (50 lbs) and CO2 is less than a buck a pound.

My local Airgas refills 5 & 10# while you wait [I witnessed it first hand, and got a bottle with carbonic ice on it), while the 20# (and larger, I figure) are swapped outright. Different way of doing things, I guess. And the 5&10# sizes are more expensive (by the pound) vs the 20#. I've mostly gotten rid of all my non-20# CO2's except for one 10# that I take to parties - it's lighter and more convenient to me.

MC
 

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