My Set Up - Branded Brewing Co.

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Branded

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
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Location
Denver
Now that I am in deep in this hobby, I thought I might finally share my entire set up.
My new website, which I plan to keep record of each brew with recipes, etc. (work in progress)
www.brandedbrewingco.com
My Logo
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My alternate Logo
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PDF Packet of all the info
http://www.brandedbrewingco.com/pdf/Branded Brewring Co - Setup.pdf

Parts List
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My brew cart – I designed the cart with panels on, for aesthetic purposes only. On group brew days, I think this will look quite professional (much more than I am). I also have a table cover that has my logo imprinted on the skirt coming to complete it. I am sure many of you may wonder about the heat being trapped. The panels do get a little warm, but not warm enough to really burn yourself on. The cart is still new, and I am getting everything dialed in yet. Once I do that, I plan to make some new panels with some vents at the top and go with a little thicker material.
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The designs (better drawing in packet) Working at inserting the dimensions on the drawing.
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The March Pumps – With bleeder valves to help priming
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Looking inside the Boil Kettle
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Looking into the MLT. Sparge is built into the lid.
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Shot of the BK
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Shot of the MLT
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Shot of the HLT
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Feeding Wort into the BK
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Fired up
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In use – You may notice I have some extra “risers” under the kettles. Still dialing in the system, and will do away with these, this was just so I could see the flame more easily.
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Pumping into plate chiller
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Thank you for everyone that posts on here.
 
If you turned your pump heads 180 degrees so the outlet faces up, it may alleviate any priming issues. Air bubbles can rise easier this way.
 
If you turned your pump heads 180 degrees so the outlet faces up, it may alleviate any priming issues. Air bubbles can rise easier this way.

I actually didn't even use the valves on the first brew on the system. I didn't have any issues, but I put the valves into my design at last minute. Due to how close I have the mounts, I can't spin the heads. That would be one thing I would change if I revised the build.
 
I didn't even notice the pump orientation. But he is right, you're supposed to have the outlets on the top, or to the right. I guess if you start noticing priming issues, or cavitation, you may want to turn the heads around.
 
I really like your brewstand, great job (from your welder! :) )
Material?

Good luck with your 1st class brewing time!

gm
 
Very nice rig!! The real problem with your pump orientation is that when you open the purge valves, you are going to spew wort, and not air. The output should be on top so that when you open the valves, and the pump is off, it can flood the chamber from the bottom, and push the bubbles out the top. I'm sure you'll get it dialed in. Very pro photos!
 
Bobby is pretty much right, except I used Type C's. The male barb on the pump valve, I do not connect anything to. It is just there to bleed the air. I haven't had any problems with the pumps so far, but maybe I just don't know any better. So I reconfigured the valves to point upwards. Now it looks like I have a set of horns on the cart, goes with the theme, win win.
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I will try to get a shot of it, but I forgot to mention that the cart was designed to fit in the bed of my truck. I have a carpeted 5.5' bed. With it on its side, I can stand the 3 keggles right next to it along with a propane tank. Behind the scenes shot when I took it down to the studio.
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Very handsome system! One thing I was always too lazy to do is the keg polishing :) they look great.

You misunderstood about flipping the outputs... but it shouldn't be difficult or interrupt your setup to correct it. its not the valves that will work better pointed up, its the output side of the pump. In other words unscrew the pump head, flip it upside down, and reconnect the fittings with purge valve and output on top, input on bottom. The liquid should enter the pump from below to function optimally. Air will want to escape upwards, from inside the pump and hoses and up out through the purge valve. Actually you may find you don't even need the valves with it flipped.
 
I did understand what everyone had said about the pumps. But just incase I screwed up any threads on the pump heads (when installing the parts shown), I didn't want to be scrambling for a new one or trying to close up any leaks to be able and brew this weekend. So I just changed the parts on the stainless side of things. I will be changing the pump positions after I get everything else dialed in, at that point, I will go back to the stock configuration. Will be mounting the pump on the left on the underside of the mounting place, which will allow me to turn both heads back horizontally.
 
On the polishing look, that took about 6-10 min. per keg. Not sure what they are really called, but they are blue plastic grinding pads for your angle grinder. I got mine at home depot. I like the swirl mark look over the full polish, but that is me.
 
Sad... You'll probably regret it on the day you get a bug up your butt to brew. I say keep it and brew when you have time
 
I have made some changes to the brewing set up. Obviously changed the color scheme to more fit my "theme". As you will notice, I added an electric panel and hard plumbed all my my water in/out. I changed the system to a HERMS set up and added a few stainless parts. I am brewing on the set up this weekend and will get some action shots with all the lines hooked up.

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Also here are a couple shots of my draft tower. The bar top has black and white photos that I shot from out in Wyoming and Montana, all under a 1/2 inch of epoxy.

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I appreciate the compliment nhwrecker. It is a keezer set up. It was built around a CL 20 Cu Ft Chest Freezer.
 
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