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I don't think it was ever answered if you've checked the location of your large dip tube. Make sure it's in the line out valve, and that the small tube is your line in: gas is going on the top and increasing pressure for the beer to come out on the bottom. If you have those reversed, gas bubbles up from the bottom, and continues to really bubble (would explain bubbling in lid and why you'd only get foam through a tap).
 
But he has beer, not foam, in the lines. What is the temperature difference at the tap? What kind of setup? Tap box, Tap mounted to fridge door? I think it's time for pictures to help out more.
Also just to double check. It seems that you're purging the air, THEN adjusting the regulator down. This will allow it to refill to the old pressure before you get it turned down. Turn the pressure down THEN purge. if this is not what you're already doing. Althought the fact that the beer is flat is very weird. It is Co2 and not oxygen right :)
 
Thanks again everyone.

I don't have the capability of shooting video unfortunately.

Yes, the lines are definitely filled with beer and not foam. And I will make sure I turn down the pressure to where I want it before I purge. LOL, could you imagine if I had a tank of o2?

Regarding the flatness of the beer, I attribute it to all of the co2 getting foamed off. There is some carbonation to the beer, but almost half of what I would want it to be.

A buddy of mine is lending me a spare faucet to test that end of the theory tonight. I am literally holding my breath until then.
 
DO NOT disappear from this thread before you post what you found! I am very intrigued about this as are many of the others. I hate it when someone resolves their problem and never comes back to tell us what they found.
 
No problem Bull. If I do resolve it tonight, I'll be sure to post up about it, but I'll likely have to post it in the DRMM section.
 
The faucet is NOT the problem.

I am now following the path that says that my beer is overcarbonated. I have purged my keg, and will continue to bleed it over the next few days until it is decarbonated. I will then recarbonate it. As it de-carbs, I'll take my regulator in to my compressed gas store to see if they can test it.

What my hope is, is that when my keg froze, it disrupted the carbonation process somehow.

Seriously at a loss here.
 
Johnny,

I think you are on the right path. When this happened on mine, I just disconnected the CO2 and bled the keg (while still in the kegerator). Then I would bleed it off everyday when I got home (every 24 hours) until it bled almost nothing. Then I just hooked the CO2 back up at the regular 11 psi I keep my system at, gave it a day and it was fine after that.
 
My friend (Xerotime on here) had a great idea yesterday, and what I hope is the solution here. He said that when I had the temperature regulating problems, and a good portion of the beer was at 26F, it took on too much carbonation (using the reasoning that beer will take on more carbonation at lower temperatures).

So essentially, I am starting from scratch here. I have purged the keg and will go back and keep purging it to ensure that there is no build up of co2 as it is released from the beer.

How long will it take for my beer to release all of the co2 so I can re-hook up the co2 line and begin the carbing process again?

Like the Mets season, I don't have high hopes for how this beer ends up considering how much I've had to screw around with it. Right now, I'm just hoping to correct the system.
 
If you purge it, agitate it a bit, then purge it again, etc. It shouldn't take too many cycles of that to liberate most of the CO2 in solution.
 
Is the agitation really necessary? I'm no good at confrontations.
 
As probably mentioned in the previous 6 pages, you can't dispense at 12psi. If I pull a pint at anywhere above 5psi I get mad foam. Which all turns into beer as I let it sit, but never the less it's foam.

When you set the regulator at ambient temperature, the diaphragm changes according to temperature, so when the tank reaches the fridge temp, you need to make sure and re-adjust the pressure.

To get a good pint, turn off the gas going to the keg, turn the pressure down, purge the keg of pressure (just one or two pulls will be enough) turn the gas back on, but at a low level. Then dispense. The slower the beer flows the less the foam will be. Oh and make sure you are on the "out" dip-tube side of the keg.
 
Currently, I am not doing anything but look at a shaved cat touch himself...

...and waiting for my carbonation to dissipate.
 
Sorry, but "YEP". That has all pretty much been presented already. He has been through all of the simple solutions and has moved on to the "smoke and mirrors" part of troubleshooting his problem.
Actually I didn't see that mentioned yet anywhere? Could have missed it. I was not aware of this. I have my regulator set to 12-14 psi for carbonation and leave it there for serving. I thought that was what a balanced system was for. So you don't have to adjust line length. I need to recheck those carbonation charts... So to clarify, it is IMPOSSIBLE to get a good pour with 10+ psi?

Currently, I am not doing anything but look at a shaved cat touch himself...
Ahh, The Great American Past Time :mug:
 
Mine sits at 12psi and 35F forever - last 6 years, anyway.

But OP says he probably over carb'd - colder temps - which would result in excess foam.
Once it's all leveled out - he can keep it at 10 - 12psi at 35-38F, as long as there is 5-6 feet of 3/16 beverage tubing, he should be good to go.

Update, JohnnyO?
 
Agreed. My goal is to have a balanced system where I can truly "set it and forget it". IXVolt, if you properly balance your system with temperature and line length, you should be able to set your regulator at the right PSI to carbonate and to serve.

I had followed the formula to do so, but for some reason, my system was not balanced. The current theory is that when I first kegged the beer, I planned on having the system at 38F. Unfortunately, due to poor placement of my temperature regulator probe (on top of the compressor box), the middle of my freezer was 38F as planned, but the bottom of the freezer was at 26F. Because of this, a good portion of my beer was below freezing. Because the beer will absorb more co2 (is that the proper term, absorb?) at lower temperatures, the theory is that my beer is overcarbonated.

So currently, my keg is sitting in the keezer without any gas hooked up to it, and every day I am purging the keg to release any co2 that may have built up as it is released from the beer. My hope is that it will be decarbonated by tomorrow or Sunday, so I can start from square one, and recarbonate it at the proper pressure.
 
Actually I didn't see that mentioned yet anywhere? Could have missed it. I was not aware of this. I have my regulator set to 12-14 psi for carbonation and leave it there for serving. I thought that was what a balanced system was for. So you don't have to adjust line length. I need to recheck those carbonation charts... So to clarify, it is IMPOSSIBLE to get a good pour with 10+ psi?

OK IP, stop busting my balls. ;) What I meant was that most of the simple solutions had already been tried. It was really meant that if anyone else stumbles in to this party late, they wouldn't start suggesting stuff the OP had already tried.

I also dispense with my reg set to 14 PSI and get a very nice and slow pour. Granted my hose length is 14.5' which some may consider a nuisance. But for me personally, it is more of a nuisance to continually have to turn the reg up and down every time I want to pull a pint. Balancing a system really works. If anyone is not getting the proper results, they need to reevaluate their calcs.
 
I have to use a low pressure because I have a short hose from outport to tap. I like to keep my taps in the fridge, they stay cleaner that way. I think my lines are about 8 inches each and 1/4'' ID.

Also I don't care for the set and leave it method, I'm too impatient. So I shake/carbonate the keg while my son and I play darts.
 
Update!! 7/27/09

I've allowed the beer to sit in the keg for 4-5 days with no co2 connected. Although I don't think it was necessary, I bled the keg every afternoon in that timeframe.

Before I took it off the co2, I had a lot (A LOT) of foam in the keg. Now, there is no foam in there whatsoever.

So tonight, after I got back from a family BBQ on Long Island (Bud Light cans all day = water), I decided to put the gas back on and start recarbonating my beer.

I started by lowering the regulator to 0 psi before connecting the gas to the keg. I needed to see that, without any real pressure, I could pull off a pint.

SUCCESS!!!

No foam!! Sure it's flat beer, but there's no foam!!!

So I enjoyed my first pint of beer off my keg in the basement as I brought my regulator up to pressure (set it to 12 psi as the guidelines say for my system).

I pulled another half pint off at 12 psi (you know, just to check). Still, no foam!! It came out a little quicker than at 0 psi, but still no foam.

So at this point, I think that we figured out this beast. It seems as though the temperature issues was the culprit here. When 1/2 the keg sat at less than freezing temps for 2 days, it absorbed too much co2 and was overcarbonated. This caused the foaming issues. So now that the temperature is properly regulated in the keezer, the beer should carbonate properly.

At this point, I am so relieved. Thanks to everyone here on HBT and on this thread for their pointers, suggestions and direction.

:rockin:
 
Awesome. I had posted a thread a couple weeks back about some kegging issues. It was a relief to get it figured out. I know it sure feels good.
 
Oh definitely Chris. However, now I need to practice restraint and let her sit for a week.

Picked up some CaskaZilla Overhopped Red Ale from Ithaca Brewing to tide me over.

mmmmmmmm CaskaZilla.....
 
Couldn't wait and tried pulling off a pint tonight to see how she was carbing up.

Whatever in the beer line was fine. However, the rest that was carbing in the keg came out as ALL FOAM!!!!

So any theory that this was a temperature issue has been thrown out the window.

New Theory:

I have a bum regulator. When I adjust the regulator, the gauge shows no response until I've turned the screw at least a time and a half, and then it registers some change. I've already replaced the low pressure gauge when I first installed the system as it was dented.

Rather than go through replacing the gauge, I'm just going to replace the entire thing. I guess this is just a matter of buyer beware on craigslist.

G'night all.
 
Out of curiosity...did you prime your keg with priming sugar or other? I would assume not as you were carbing with CO2.
 
A note about adjusting your regulator. Any time I adjust mine it doesn't register a change immediately. I pull the blowoff for just a half a second which makes the pressure on the gauge actually readjust to what I'm tuning it to. Otherwise it will adjust w/o the gauge changing and it's easy to over adjust it.
 
Brought my regulator to the compressed gas place. The guy said he thinks it could be a bad diaphragm in the unit. So when I have it set to 12 psi, it may be anything.

This, too, makes sense.

Going to have to order a new regulator when I get up the cash. Till then, I'm going to purge the keg for a day or so and just barely let in some gas to see if I can get at least a couple pours out of it until I can get a new one.

Anyone want to buy me a dual gauge regulator?? lol
 
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