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mmsb

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Hello from San Bruno, CA

I'm new to home brewing and recently started out with a 1 gallon kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop, (Everyday IPA) needless to say I've caught the home brew bug and have since brewed a Bourbon Dubbel (1gal.) and a Red Ale (2.5gal). The IPA turned out great and the BD was bottled last week. I'm heading to my LHBS tomorrow to pick up supplies and grain for another batch and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a different style.

I'm brewing 2.5 gallon batches of all grain and I'd love to clone Ninkasi's Tricerahops, Bells Two Hearted Ale (I'm originally from Michigan and went to college in Kalamazoo) or find a recipe for a crisp, hoppy, balanced IPA.
 
Search the site for those beers. They scale directly. If you want a 2.5G batch and the recipe you find is 5G, just scale the malt and the hops by .50. You can find those beers. I had a bottle of Tricerahops last night. That's a fine Imperial IPA right there! If you're doing extract and only find an AG conversion, just post it up here and I'll convert it for ya. Deal?

This is the fun part. Picking a beer you like and making something just as good...or better (it happens!).
 
Thanks @jbaysurfer for the Tricerahops clone and the offer for conversions and @sweed for the Bells 2 hearted. I live in the peninsula in the bay area and It's going to be a late summer, I think I'll go with the 2 hearted and by the time fall rolls around It will be perfect! I feel like I need to work up to Tricerahops and maybe I'll brew that in early March of next year to get ready for the summer. Any advice on dry hopping? Should I go whole cone or pellet? Thanks again!
 
Glad to help. Either kind of hop works for dryhopping. People have their preferences. I prefer pellet hops because I can dryhop right in the primary, then cold crash it before racking it right to the keg. No secondary needed. You can do the same with whole hops, but it takes them longer to drop out of suspension in my experience, and if you use an autosiphon, copious whole hops can actually clog the siphon and draw o2 in through the autosiphon seal. Minor problem, but something to look out for.

In the end, I use whatever I've got on hand. I just drank a Tricerahops a couple days ago. LOVE that beer!
 
One more question about the actual process in this beer. Here are the instructions and I wanted to make sure I understood correctly (I've had step by step recipes so far).

*mash at 150 F

1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (60 min) Hops 30.3 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (15 min) Hops 15.0 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (5 min) Hops 6.0 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (1 min) Hops 1.3 IBU

1. Does this mean that I heat my water to 160, let the grain drop it to 150 and keep it at 150 for the entire mash?

2. For the hops, it says (60 min) I'm assuming that I add that Ounce right at the beginning of the boil and then 15 min before flame out, 5min and so on.

3. For the dry hop do I wait until the second week in fermentation and drop them in?

Thanks in advance and for listening to my noobnesss.
 
Tricerahops is literally my favorite IPA, so balanced and it packs a punch. 2 hearted is my runnner up for sure. I thought I was spoiled on Michigan beer until I moved to the West Coast, there are some heavy hitters out here.
 
You are in CA, so this probably doesn't matter as much to you as it does to most, but it is a good idea to pay attention to your brewing timeline. eg what you brew now will be ready in october. If you want to sip on some seasonal fall or winter brews, those need to be going now.
 
Heat the strike water, the grains will naturally lower the temp to the desired mash temp. Give it a good stir close it and leave it alone. Mashing does not need eyes, that just lets the heat out.
 
1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Maybe. Add the dry hops once primary fermentation is finished. If you add too soon, the fermentation may gas off the hop aroma and you may lose the reason you're dry hopping - the smell!
 
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