Electric HLT qsuestion

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Concho

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I'm currently getting together all the equipment that I need to do all grain. I'm wanting my HLT to be electric so I can regulate the temp better. I'm going to put a water heater element in a 50qt SS pot and found this element online at grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VANGUARD-Resistored-HWD-Element-15A569?Pid=search. Will this be ok? I'm needing a 120v only. I'm wanting to use the STC-1000 for temp control. Also where is the best place to get a thermwell for the probe?
 
The amperage draw on that element will exceed a normal household 20 amp 120 volt circuit. For a 20 amp circuit, you can go with 2000w, for 15 amp you can go with 1500w. Also, while a high watt density (HWD) element is fine for an HLT, if you ever wanted to use it in a mash or boil kettle you would be better off with low or ultra-low (LWD, ULWD).
 
Thanks, I'll go with the 2000w. I'm no looking to go full boil just yet, might in the future
 
Also, know that the STC-1000 can handle a max of 10 amps. So for a 1500W or 2000W element, you would have to use a relay of some sort.
 
What would be the best (cheapest), found locally route for the relay? I can build or fabricate just about anything, just not very familiar with electrical. Just done basic electrical on jeeps and other vehicles, nothing really within a house other than ceiling fans.

Will a regular relay from say a light kit work, or will I need a AC version.
 
what you really want is a pid not that STC-1000. since you need a relay anyway i'd just go PID + SSR (solid state relay) and have the right tool for the job.

that temp controller has no brain. it's going to overshoot temps, especially when heating from tap water temps.
 
Bringing this thread back up due to progress. I'm going with a 2000 watt element and pid with ssr. What amp ssr will I need. Also anyone had the screw-in thermocoupler, can I screw it directly into the kettle and what size hole are they generally.
 
the bigger the SSR is over the required size of the load, the less heat it will generate and the longer it will function. i'd go with a 30 or 40 amp since the price difference isn't very big.

for the thermowell, i believe auber does 1/4" and 1/2" so you'll need to get a weldless kit to match the thermocouple you're using and then drill the appropriate size hole. i use 1/2" on all my stuff so that i can have the same size couplers as my ball valves, etc in case i ever need to move things around.
 
Thanks, I have zero experience with pids, ssrs and the rest of this stuff. Appreciate the help
 
One of the additions I made was another bulkhead and whirlpool tube. After looking at others, I thought of that. Thanks for letting me know, I still feel like. I'm missing something. I'll also be doing a build thread on it soon.
 
I've seen somewhere on this forum where they attached a paint stirrer to a ice cream mixer motor. Thought of doing this, but settled on whirl pooling.
 
I used a long brew spoon for a good while.

yeah.. I kept stirring, but I'm inherently lazy and want something automatic. I might buy a march pump even though I don't really need it yet, although one day I'm sure I will.
 
+1 on the pump idea. I pump from my HLT through my 2000w RIMS and back to the kettle to get me 7500w for heating strike water.
 
People are testing little dc pumps from eBay right now. They are cheap and seem to get the job done. 18 or 22 bucks on eBay. i38 pump I think. There is another thread on them. For recirculating hlt they would be perfect and cheap.
 
nice.. $21 for the pump and $30 for the camlocks and I'm set!

I figure i can always use the camlocks in the future for other purposes if the pump idea doesn't work out.
 
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