Avoiding the Scorch

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digdan

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So I used to do AG, but I built a 5 gallon kettle for Williams Extract Kit brewing. I got the Brown Ale kit.

I'm using a 150,000 BTU burner, and was wondering if there is any tricks to keep the wort for scorching.

Any help would be good.
 
One option is to remove the pot from the heat source and then add extract. Another is to stir like crazy while adding the extract to the boiling water. Hope this helps, I don't have too much brewing experience.:mug:
 
I do Extract/Partial Mash kits, and I boil a full 5 gallons.

I use a turkey fryer, and I too had a scorch problem with my very first batch. After that, I picked up a big 24" Stainless Wire Whisk from a Restaurant Supply Shop.

Now, I simply remove the wort from the burner, add the extract, and stir the snot out of it with this amazing whisk. Haven't had a problem since.

Hope that helps!
 
I agree stir and don't stop for long. Also, try to use the least amount of heat to keep the boil going.
 
I had the same problem, 185k BTU burner and liquid extract that scorched.

I ended up doing late additions. I don't turn off the heat, but I do add it with only about 15 minutes left in the boil. Seems to work out pretty well that way.
 
I've done late extract additions, too. It works fine- the only thing you have to be aware of is to reduce your hopping slightly. Hops utilization is increased in lower gravity wort. It's helpful to have some brewing software so you can see the differences in IBUs, but if you don't, I"m sure one of us can run it through our software for you.

This would explain more: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=26151
 
I add at the last 15 minutes of the boil.... but I don't mess with my hop additions becuase I like hoppy beers :)
 
I used to think DME was the way to go but I've suddenly become REAL fond of the midwest supplies 6 pack of 3.3L plastic jugs. I let the jugs sit in hot tap water for about an hour while I get my brew pot up to temp/steep. Once the water starts to boil just turn off the burners, dump in the LME (which will now pour fast cause its hot), stir like crazy, and turn the burners back on. I add a little water to each of the jugs, cap it, shake the LME off the walls and pour the last bit into the pot.

DME requires a lot more stirring and holding bags of powder while it dissolves. Those LME jugs are DAMN cheap... like $2.25 per 3.3lbs jug.
 
I haven't used extract for a long time but when I did I used LME. I would let the bucket of extract sit in hot water until it softened and then poured it in. BUT I didn't stir like mad so that wort was splashing around as this could lead to Hot Side Aeration (HSA). Instead stir with enough vigor to be effective but not splash the wort around. I used a big spoon as well, I think a wisk may also be a factor for HSA....
 
I agree with most of the replies above, there have also been several articles on this topic in BYO. After removing specialty grains, I bring to a boil. Once the boil begins, I remove from heat and add LME and DME. Once dissolved, then bring back to boil. This will for the most part prevent scortching (stir as usual).
 
Craig5_12 said:
I haven't used extract for a long time but when I did I used LME. I would let the bucket of extract sit in hot water until it softened and then poured it in. BUT I didn't stir like mad so that wort was splashing around as this could lead to Hot Side Aeration (HSA). Instead stir with enough vigor to be effective but not splash the wort around. I used a big spoon as well, I think a wisk may also be a factor for HSA....


HSA isn't a problem if you bring it back to boil for a few minutes. The boiling will force the oxygen out of solution.
 
Good point, that would work too but you don't really know how long to boil for. You would probably always be safe boiling for another 10 or 15 minutes....

Then again, can anyone say they've actually expierienced HSA.......
 
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