Lots of nube questions (costs, blow off tubes, yeast)

1) Cost - why are the kits from all the local homebrew shops so expensive even though you can buy the individual ingredients there for so much less? For example I was looking at Sierra Nevada recipes... the individual components are:

$10.80 [9 pounds, U.S. 2--row pale malt ]
$00.50 [1/2 pound, crystal malt (60L) ]
$00.50 [1/4 to 1/2 pound, cara-pils malt
$01.00 [1 ounce, Perle (alpha 6.5), (60 minute boil) ]
$00.50 [1/2 ounce, Cascade (alpha 6.3) (15 minute boil) ]
$00.50 [1/2 ounce, Cascade (steep at end of boil) ]
$05.00 [Wyeast "American Ale" yeast ]

Grand total = $18.80 which is pretty good for 5 gallons. But the kit the local shop sells to make the same beer in the same quantity, is $55. OK so they throw in some totally unnecessary priming sugar and maybe some sanitizer (both of which have only a tiny cost to a homebrewer on a per batch basis). I just don't get how they come up with this pricing? Do they think they are selling a secret recipe or something?


2) Blow off tube for glass carboy - doesn't seem air tight - is it supposed to be? If its not, what can I do to make it air tight? Its not like there are huge gaps, but its also not anything like the fit of a rubber stopper.

Yeast questions:
1) Some experienced guys tell me I should make starter cultures (activator batches?) of yeast, they tell me the idea is to get fermentation started almost immediately after adding the yeast to the wort so that a protective layer of CO2 forms above your brew. OK - this sounds good - but wouldn't it be even easier (and perhaps better) to just release some CO2 into your carboy immediately after you fill it if this is supposed to protect the product? This could be done using those little cylinders of CO2 that can be found at any walmart for example (paint ball guns use them). Is there some other reason to go to the extra trouble and possible extra risk of contamination from making these starter batches of active yeast?

2) Most of the directions I read (on the yeast packaging, and often in recipes too) give a recommended temperature your wort should be stored at until fermentation begins (for example 70-75). I was just wondering why they say "until fermentation begins"? Are you supposed to use a different temp AFTER fermentation begins? And what exactly is an acceptable temp after fermentation begins? (and why don't they include this info?)

1) Cost = Convenience + Lack of information + Prices rise until people stop buying it. Post a link to the HBS kit.
2) Air tight not essential but desired. Use cling wrap to improve the seal. Need more details to provie further help.

Y1) Yeast needs O2 in it's early stages. Adding CO2 would be counter-productive.
Y2) You're thinking too much.

1. See what they're selling for 55 dollars. They're probably selling an extract kit. Extract costs more. They might still have a markup, but typically when kits are put together they cost the total of the ingredients. Also, I don't know about your store, but mine only sells hops in 2 ounce increments.

2. Your blow off tube should be snug in there. It isn't as snug as a rubber stopper though.

Yeast questions:
1. let the yeast do its job. If you do a starter properly, you shouldn't risk much additional contamination. Everything is about sanitation in brewing, so it is just one more step that has to be that way. I've only pitched directly onto my wort so far, and it has been fine. Making a starter is a good idea and you can tell you have good active yeast going into your beer.

2. That temperature range is good for the whole process. A lot of people keep their fermentation in the lower range to keep away the ill effects of fermenting at too high a temperature. But you don't want to let it get too warm, and fermentation will generate some of its own heat.

A starter gives the yeast a "head start" on all the other little beasties that can get in your wort. Enough yeast will help ensure that they crowd out anybody else.

2. Blow off tubes - this is how I do it. My LHBS doesn't sell big enough tubing to fit snuggly in the carboy so I bought 1/2" tubing and an extra carboy cap. The 1/2" fits nice and tight over the center opening on the cap.

2nd yeast question: it is good to keep it above 70 F so the yeast can get started. temperatures under that COULD result in a slow start or stuck fermentation. once fermentation starts, you can drop the temperature.

i like to keep most my beers at temperatures ranging from 65-68 F degrees because i'm partial to the spicier tastes, not the fruity or banana tastes. I wait until fermentation begins (usually the next morning) before i turn on my fermentation chiller, just to ensure the yeasties are good and ready to perform their duties, even after i drop the temperature.

i generally pitch at 72-74 F

Thanks a lot guys. This seems like a great forum. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions...

I did buy the John Palmer book, but I'm only a couple chapters in right now.

This was just in a recent post and so I copied it because copying is easy...

SIDEBAR TWO:

Fermentation Temperatures
80+ not recommended for most yeast strains
75-80 even with compensating techniques, ales will be fruity with most yeast strains
72-75 reasonably clean ales can be brewed with compensating techniques or appropriate yeast strain
68-72 normal ale fermentation temperature range
60-68 some ales are fermented at these temps (Scottish Ales, for ex.)
55-60 some high-temperature lagers brewed here
45-55 normal lager temperature range

SIDEBAR THREE: YEAST STRAINS

Seventy-two degrees Fahrenheit is the commonly-cited upper temperature limit for most ale yeasts. However, some ale yeast strains perform well at temperatures above this limit.

In general, Belgian yeasts and wheat-beer yeasts are good high-temperature fermenters. A bit of esters are expected in these beer styles. In addition, according to Dave Logsdon, from Wyeast, "When temperatures increase above 78 F, a significant increase in fusel alcohols is likely for most yeast. Belgian yeast, wheat beer yeast, and wine yeast appear to have lower levels of fusels when fermented at the higher temperature range."

Some "normal" ale yeast strains also work well above 72¡F. Chris White, from White Labs yeast says, "California, WLP001, is the best high temperature yeast we have. Neutral character can be obtained even up to 80F. WLP008 (East Coast Ale Yeast) is used by one brewery in Taiwan that consistently ferments at 90F, and they report good beer flavor."

Here are some strains that Mr. Logsdon and Mr. White recommend:

"Normal" ale yeast strains
White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast
White Labs WLP008 East Coast Ale Yeast
Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale Yeast
Wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale Yeast
Wyeast 1335 British Ale Yeast II


Belgian yeasts
White Labs WLP500 Trappist Ale Yeast
White Labs WLP550 Belgian Ale Yeast
White Labs WLP565 Belgian Saison Yeast
Wyeast 1214 Belgian Ale Yeast
Wyeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale Yeast
Wyeast 1762 Belgian Abbey Yeast II
Wyeast 3787 Trappist High Gravity Ale Yeast

Wheat-beer yeasts
White Labs WLP300 Hefeweizen Yeast
White Labs WLP380 Hefeweizen IV Yeast
Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen Yeast
Wyeast 3333 German Wheat Yeast
Wyeast 3638 Bavarian Wheat Yeast

Click to expand...

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