My Electric Build...Finally....

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hammis

hammis

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Ok so i've been working on this build on and off since this past June. I've made some HUGE progress and think i am very close to the end (i hope). I would love to be able to brew in early december and possibly have something ready for Christmas/New Years.

I started out with 3 old kegs from a guy i know (hooked me up bigtime = $0 paid). I cut open 2 and used a wire brush attachment on my drill to clean off all of the old stickers and paint.
 
I just drew out the diameter of the holes i wanted to cut in the top of each keg and cut them using my grinder and some nice cutoff disks (freehand). they turned out pretty well. I then used a cheap a$$ step drill bit from harbour freight to drill the holes for my valves (as can be seen on the first 2 kegs

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before moving onto cutting open the 3rd keg and cleaning it up, i finished off my brew stand so i would have some space in my cramped basement to organize myself a little bit.

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I finished cutting open the 3rd keg and plumbing it with a valve. All valves are weldless.

Once this was completed i removed all the valves and took some barkeepers friend, a green scotch brite pad and a hose and scrubbed the kegs until they looked nice and shiney.

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At this point i was waiting for $$$ to accrue in my bank account again and i had a few parts on order so i decided it was time to work on my grain mill setup. I tried to keep it simple, due to the limited space i have in the basement. I bought a bucket and some veneered plywood from the local hardware store and used my jigsaw to cut everything out. I attached the 2 roller monster mill to the base with the nuts it came with and then built the hopper on top.

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Again, I had some time to kill waiting for parts and $$$. So i decided to test out the heating element i had, 1440W with the normal electrical outlet located 5 feet away. I plumbed it the same way 95% of the guys on this website have done, i initially tried Kal's method and was really looking forwards to the way it looked, but i couldnt get a good enough seal, so i gave up and went the other simpler route.

Once the JB weld was dry i connected the element to the kettle, filled the kettle with about 5 gal of water and let it rip. It took about 70 min to raise the water from cold tap temperature to 70 deg Celcius (too long for me, so i swapped it out for a 4500W element instead. I havent tried it yet as i have to still complete my electrical panel (hopefully this weekend)

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So once some parts arrived and i made a trip to princess auto and picked some stuff up (lights etc) i started work on my electrical panel. This was also after lengthy discussion on electrical safety and process with my electricians at work and a few of the guys on this forum. (thanks to all involved :mug: )

Please dont criticize the wiring yet, i havent finished nor cleaned it up (hopefully will get done this weekend)

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Thats it for now, i do have some more stuff done i just dont have time to post it now, lol. I will try to update more tomorrow and hopefully LOTS more after this weekend.

Cheers!
 
One last post for the night. I build a panel mount in between the HLT and Mashtun. I liked the way Deepsix had his build set up and did something similar (tho slightly less, computerized, lol). I also wrapped the Mashtun in 2 layers of pipe insulation, the stuff thats sticky on one side and foam on the other. I think it looks pretty cool and it should definitely help with heat retention during the mashing process.

The space left on the panel is for the eventual addition of PID's, 1 for the HLT and the 2nd for the Kettle. This will happen when funds (or SWMBO) allow(s), lol.

If you look closely you will also see a large pressure cooker on the bottom shelf of the bench, this will eventually be used for a steam mash system. And next to that is a 4th keg which i have cut the top off of, i will eventually turn this into a fermenter similar to what Yuri has (i think instead of the cooling coils i will use an ice probe, my basement is cool all year long and i only need to drop the temp a few degrees).

A few weekends ago i scored a sweet deal, 2 cornys + 5lb CO2 tank with dual regulator for $125. I want to try making some beer in those first and develop a really solid recipe and then focus on some more building/DIY after that.

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I'm lucky enough to have a friend who has a cart full of "old parts" which are no longer being used.
 
What type of temp controller are you using and where did you get it. Im thinking of building a system this winter at least starting. I have found a few controllers but not sure what everyones normal brand style is? And prices seem to be all over especiall if you plan on using more then one.
 
You've got some really nice control panel parts there! Are those Allen Bradley ($$$) switches?

Kal
 
Kal: they are Allen Bradley switches, I got them from the scrap pile at work, saved some dough on those ;)

Akthor: I used pipe wrap insulation that you can get at home depot. Its sticky on one side and foam on the other. I wrapped the MLT in 2 layers of the stuff, it's about $15/30 ft
 
hammis said:
Kal: they are Allen Bradley switches, I got them from one of my electricians at work, they were spares, saved some dough on those ;)
Click to expand...
That's what I thought. Very nice indeed! I would have loved to use AB stuff on my control panel but they're 10x the price of the switches I used. (They're also all 30mm dia instead of the 22mm I used so you need more room on the panel too).

Kal
 
Looks like such a neat and clean solution for insulating the keg and easy too. How ggod is it at holding heat?

hammis said:
Kal: they are Allen Bradley switches, I got them from one of my electricians at work, they were spares, saved some dough on those ;)

Akthor: I used pipe wrap insulation that you can get at home depot. Its sticky on one side and foam on the other. I wrapped the MLT in 2 layers of the stuff, it's about $15/30 ft
Click to expand...
 
kklowell:

I totally stole the idea of the insulation from Deepsix, so the credit has to go to him. The stuff i used is about 2 inches wide and comes in 30ft rolls, took about 2 rolls to cover 1 keg with 2 layers.

akthor:

not sure how well it holds the heat yet, still finishing the project, i havent actually brewed yet, life has been REALLY busy these last 2 months and most of my work has come to a grinding halt. i hope to get everything done in the next week or so and actually brew next weekend. i will let you know how well it holds heat when i test it out
 
bassettwrangler:

i havent bought any PID's yet, but from what i've read on the forum (and i've read a LOT) i think the way i will be going is with the Auber PID's lots of people seem to be using. You can get them right off Auber's website for a decent price.
 
I'm trying to figure out how to get my kids to buy me an Auber PID or two for Christmas... but, being the Grinch that I am it seems kind of "wrong" to now suggest what I want Santa to bring me. LOL
 
haha, shouldnt burn bridges man... lol

below are some updated pictures of the panel. I finished about 95% of the rewiring and cleanup of it this morning...finally. Between travelling the last 2 weeks and the digging myself out after the snowstorm we had i havent had much chance to get anything done until now. I removed most of the old wiring and replaced it with newer stuff and cleaned it up with some zip ties. I will probably test it tomorrow to make sure it works. And then onwards with the build. Only a few things left to do and then i will hopefully be able to actually brew this weekend :mug:

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ok so here is the question of the day. i have my panel wired up, i'm hoping to brew this coming weekend, and i start thinking about a gfci. currently the way i have wired my setup is such: i have a new 2 pole 30a breaker wired into my homes breaker panel, from this i have wired a dryer outlet. i plan on connecting my panel via the dryer outlet. would it be catastrophic if i didnt have a gfci in there someplace? i havent been able to find one for less than $200
 
Not required, your washing machine, dryer, cookstove, none of that stuff is on a GFCI. As long as you have your grounds connected correctly you should have no problem even if a hot line shorts to something else, it will just kick the breaker.
You can get a GFCI breaker if you want, but I don't think I would bother.
 
hammis said:
ok so here is the question of the day. i have my panel wired up, i'm hoping to brew this coming weekend, and i start thinking about a gfci. currently the way i have wired my setup is such: i have a new 2 pole 30a breaker wired into my homes breaker panel, from this i have wired a dryer outlet. i plan on connecting my panel via the dryer outlet. would it be catastrophic if i didnt have a gfci in there someplace? i havent been able to find one for less than $200
Click to expand...

I suggest you install a GFCI.
A breaker will not trip until the current reaches the trip point, like 30amps, which is way more than enough to kill you.
A gfci monitors the difference between the hot line(s) and the neutral and will trip if there is a very minor difference.

Breakers are intended to protect wires and equipment, GFCIs are intended to save lives.

Ed
 
SIXFOOTER said:
Not required, your washing machine, dryer, cookstove, none of that stuff is on a GFCI. As long as you have your grounds connected correctly you should have no problem even if a hot line shorts to something else, it will just kick the breaker.
You can get a GFCI breaker if you want, but I don't think I would bother.
Click to expand...

While that is technically true, I would never *ever* recommend to anyone that they do NOT install a GFCI.

The washing machine, dryer, and cookstove you mentioned are designed by companies with certified electrical and mechanical engineers and yes, they will be properly designed as they are sold and will have been CSA/UL approved and tested.

The above mentioned devices also don't use water in the same manner as an electric brew setup which is designed with completely submersed active electrical parts (the element).

That fact that the poster is asking "should I use a GFCI" means he knows very little or nothing about electricity. What are the odds that his setup is properly designed with safety in mind? Pretty much zero. Suggesting that a GFCI not be used is like suggesting to someone who's never driving a car before that they don't need to wear their seatbelt if they're 'careful'. By all means they can do it, but to actually suggest that they don't bother is (I'm sorry), just plain crazy.

You can get a 30A one with a plug and 17 foot cord and free shipping for under $80 (see here). The only reason to NOT use a GFCI is to save money. Only the original poster can decide if their life is worth $80.

I always suggest that people use GFCIs. If people don't that's their own choice. I suggest that people never ever recommend that one NOT be used. Provide the facts and let the person decide for themselves.

To quote my own site:

Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI)

A GFI is not to be confused with a circuit breaker found in your electrical breaker panel. Regular breakers are rated for specific current ratings and will switch off (or 'trip') if ever the rated current is exceeded on the circuit they control. The sole purpose of breakers is to protect the wires from overheating.

A GFI (or more accurately, a residual-current device) on the other hand is not used to protect wires or devices - it protects the equipment operator. A GFI will cut power when it detects that the current going in to a circuit does not match the current coming out of the circuit. Often this imbalance (typically only a few milliamps) is caused by current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and is accidentally touching an energized part of the circuit.

The distinction is important: A circuit breaker saves equipment, a GFI saves lives. While the electrical code varies from country to country, in North America GFIs are typically required in kitchens, bathrooms, and other places that can be wet. A GFI should most definitely be used in the circuit that powers your brewery control panel.

This GFI can be installed in one of two places: Either in the double-pole 30 amp circuit breaker in the electrical panel, or in-line with the control panel power cord.

We managed to find a 240V AC 30 amp GFI cord that was previously used to power Xerox copy machines for less than a double-pole 30 amp GFI breaker. These special 30A GFI power cords unfortunately are very difficult to find so most users will be required to install a double-pole 30A GFI breaker in their electrical panel.

Approximately half a dozen different electrical panel brands exist (Cutler Hammer, Seimens, GE, etc.) so if you purchase a double-pole 30A GFI breaker make sure that it matches your electrical panel. Refer to a qualified electrician for assistance if required.

Please do not forgo using a GFI thinking that simply being 'careful' will be enough. Like the seat belts in your car, a GFI exists because accidents or failures happen, even on properly designed, built, and operated equipment.
Click to expand...

Kal
 
Thanks to everyone for the quick responses.

Kal, its not so much that i dont know anything about electricity, i have a decent working knowledge and have been trying to read and learn as much as i can. I am also using my electricians at work to my advantage and having them inspect my work prior to firing it all up. I think i might order the cord/plug you have listed on your website as an extra precaution, but i think this weekend i might brew just with my normal plug. I think another reason i question the use of a gfci is because if you look at a normal residential water heater its not wired into a gfci breaker on the panel (at least i've never seen one done that way). or am i way off base?

(the reason i keep questioning everyone is to learn while still being safe, please dont interpret my questions as a slight against your knowledge)
 
I would spend the cash and put a GFI breaker in your panel. That way everything on the circuit is protected and not just what's attached to that pigtail.

Please don't brew without a GFI.
 
everything would be going through that "pigtail".

I've sent the supplier an email to see how much it would cost to have it shipped to me by friday. I REALLY want to brew this weekend....
 
hammis said:
Thanks to everyone for the quick responses.

Kal, its not so much that i dont know anything about electricity, i have a decent working knowledge and have been trying to read and learn as much as i can. I am also using my electricians at work to my advantage and having them inspect my work prior to firing it all up. I think i might order the cord/plug you have listed on your website as an extra precaution, but i think this weekend i might brew just with my normal plug. I think another reason i question the use of a gfci is because if you look at a normal residential water heater its not wired into a gfci breaker on the panel (at least i've never seen one done that way). or am i way off base?

(the reason i keep questioning everyone is to learn while still being safe, please dont interpret my questions as a slight against your knowledge)
Click to expand...
No issues at all! (Though I admit my knowledge is slight as compared to some others here...!). I sounds like you're doing everthing right and will get lots of differing opinions.

Can you brew without a GFI? Sure. Would I do it? No. No right or wrong answer here.

Maybe my post was mis-leading: I didn't mean for someone to think that a GFI should always be used. I simply wanted to recommend to others that the only person who can make this decision is the brewer themselves. The answer's not as black and white as ""you must have one" or "you don't need one".

Happy brewing!

Kal
 
hammis said:
I've sent the supplier an email to see how much it would cost to have it shipped to me by friday.
Click to expand...

Why not just contact your local electrical distributor? Those pup's are standard stock. Forget the Home Hell, which is a rip off. But, if you live in the boonies, you may have to do mail order. Good luck with the brew.
 
Too late, lol, purchased and arriving on friday. Still on schedule to brew this weekend :mug:
 
Ok finished all wiring yesterday, I added a 4a breaker in the panel to protect my switches and lights. I also build a pump mount for my chugger. This morning as I was eating a breafast of champions, (eggs, bacon, coffee, bagel) my gfci cord arrived (kinda shocked knowing how Canada post usually operates, lol). I wired that up this morning and tested it out, no issues. I officially started my first brewday at 1:30. So far not too many issues. Missed my mash temp 154 (under at 148), I might have to add more insulation to my MLT. Vorlauf completed and 3 gal collected for first running. I just added 3.5 gal of sparge water, 5 min to go before I can start collecting again. Wish me luck :)
 

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