Anyone have any pictures of the Blichmann "Tower of Power"?

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I have dealt with Pete at Blichmann over the last few months and he has been great! He emails me back late at night and on weekends with long emails and lots if photos to answer my questions. Maybe reach out to him? He responds using : [email protected]. Worth a try at least!

thanks for the lead. i originally bought a 2 tier stand; 2 burners and a shelf. recently i bought another burner which mounts on the same brackets the shelf used so i have this shelf now with no brackets. blichmann has a utility shelf they sell for $60 (to put the TOP modules on) that uses brackets that are not compatible with the holes on my shelf but if i drilled new holes it would work just fine. john's response was basically too bad buy a new shelf. i was thinking of fabricating brackets out of a sheet of aluminum or stainless but maybe i'll try Pete and see what he says.
 
I just put together my new Blichmann setup. I have a Top Tier with stand with two Blichmann Boilmakers and one Keggle. (might end up upgrading BK to a boilmaker in the future). I also have the Tower of Power stand with only a MT control box.

I'm very happy with it thus far, but I have one main concern. I filled my MT with water and heated up to strike temperature with pump recirculating. I let it equilibriate at strike temperature (took about 5 minutes) and then measured water temp with Thermapen. There was a 8 degree F difference between what tower of power control module thermocouple read and what thermapen read. I'm not sure if there is a way to calibrate the thermocouple on tower of power, but I trust the thermapen reading more.

In terms of ease of use, this thing is great. Makes brew day much easier. I contacted Blichmann about getting the mounting bracket to put tower of power on Top Tier stand. They said it should be coming out soon. I don't know if I would want to mount it on stand, though. I like being able to move the tower to make hose alignment easier to manage. I also don't want it too close to a burner.

My only concern is calibration of the thermocouple so far. Interested if anyone else has looked into this. . . .

I was wondering if you ever contacted Blichmann about the temperature difference you had between controller and thermapen? The first couple of batches I did, the brewmometer and controller were very close (within a degree) however the digital thermometer was reading much lower 4-5 degrees. I assumed the digital thermometer was not accurate so I purchased a thermapen. During this last batch I had the controller set at 154, the brewmometer was reading 151 and the thermapen was reading 148. Sounds similar to your test run with the strike water.
 
Good luck man. Seems stupid to have to buy a new one. Hopefully he can help.

i was able to fabricate some brackets for the shelf using stainless remnants i bought for $3 a pound. i wish i would have had a drill press to make the holes since drilling through stainless can be hard but i got it done for less than the $60 blichmann wants for their utility shelf.

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I did batch #2 in tower of power last weekend and Thermapen and tower of power thermocouple were within 1 degree of each other. I have not contacted Blichmann yet.

i have not noticed a big discrepancy but i did notice a small one. my thought is that blichmann's probe is sensing at a different location than i am with my thermapen. could be faulty reasoning on my part, i don't know. my efficiency has certainly become more consistent than it was when i was using a cooler mash tun.
 
Mine is within 0.5 degrees of my digital thermometer (not a thermapen). Close enough for me.
 
To resurrect an old thread rather than start a new one, just curious if a control module would work ok for a HERMS system? I just installed a coil on my HLT last week and was going to do electric HERMS but the quote by my electrician to run 240v service to the brew area has me looking at this solution instead.
 
Should work fine. You would run the probe inline, after the herms coil I suspect. You recirculate throughout the mash, and the TOP would control the burner under the HLT. But if you have a kettle with a false bottom for a MLT, I'd suggest running it as a RIMS with a burner under the kettle. It works great, and you don't have to bother with a HERMS coil.

But either way should work.
 
Should work fine. You would run the probe inline, after the herms coil I suspect. You recirculate throughout the mash, and the TOP would control the burner under the HLT. But if you have a kettle with a false bottom for a MLT, I'd suggest running it as a RIMS with a burner under the kettle. It works great, and you don't have to bother with a HERMS coil.

But either way should work.

I would but it's a bottom drain keggle and I can't direct fire it
 
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