American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

i brewed this also, my first ag. had a problem hitting sparge temp. mashed a little too long and grains got too cold. og 1.050.

used nottingham, no starter or soak. put in fermentater at 1am and aerated well
still no fermentation. tempted to put in us o5 packet...

fishnuttoo said:

i brewed this also, my first ag. had a problem hitting sparge temp. mashed a little too long and grains got too cold. og 1.050.

used nottingham, no starter or soak. put in fermentater at 1am and aerated well
still no fermentation. tempted to put in us o5 packet...

Click to expand...

You dry pitched. Just leave it alone.

fishnuttoo said:

i brewed this also, my first ag. had a problem hitting sparge temp. mashed a little too long and grains got too cold. og 1.050.

used nottingham, no starter or soak. put in fermentater at 1am and aerated well
still no fermentation. tempted to put in us o5 packet...

Click to expand...

The one and only time I used Notty, it took 3 days to startup. Fermented out fine.. just give it time.

wanted to follow recipe, never used notty, heard there were some problems. tough, game time, decision between notty and us 05.

been brewing a year, used dry yeast at first. both dry pitched and soaked. Then went to liquid, with starter.

I am used to a fast start.

thanx

EdWort said:

Pitch with Nottingham Dry Yeast. No starter or hydration.

Click to expand...

Why no hydration? And should I aerate the wort prior to pitching?

I've never bothered to hydrated dry yeast. In fact, I think the packets say to just dump it in. I usually aerate before and after pitching.

A couple weeks ago I dry hopped this recipe with some Citra Hops I had, wow is it good! This beer is so light bodied, it didnt take mutch (.5 oz) but it is a great beer. Thanks for the recipe Ed.

I took my first swing at All Grain brewing today using this recipie and I things went well considering all of the new things that I had to do.
My big bummer is my OG is very low .042 so I think I need to work on my mash techniques. I think I was a bit low on the mash temp ~152 deg and I need to be more agressive with the sparge. I need to let is sit a bit longer and give it a stir.

I would like some opinions on how this will turn out, did I just brew Coors Light?

Oscar

Petho said:

I took my first swing at All Grain brewing today using this recipie and I things went well considering all of the new things that I had to do.
My big bummer is my OG is very low .042 so I think I need to work on my mash techniques. I think I was a bit low on the mash temp ~152 deg and I need to be more agressive with the sparge. I need to let is sit a bit longer and give it a stir.

I would like some opinions on how this will turn out, did I just brew Coors Light?

Oscar

Click to expand...

I did this recipe for the first time a year ago as my first all grain. My gravity came out as 1.040. I was worried too, but the beer still tasted great. Don't worry about it!
I made another batch of it two weeks ago that this time I am going to dry hop with 2 oz of cascade on Monday. Can't wait!

Just brewed 10 gallons of this yesterday. Everything went pretty well except for I wasn't able to let my yeast starter build up all the way. Looking forward to drinking this one.

anyone try this with maris motter as a base malt?

I just ordered what I think should be the right amount of grain ect to do a slightly larger Partial Mash.
3.5 lbs 2-row
2.25 lbs Vienna
.5 10L
2oz Cascades
3lbs Light DME
and Notty.

It that going to work? I think I kept the ratios pretty much the same, I wanted to do a slightly large PM because I'm still trying to work the kinks out of my 5gal cooler and can't quite do full boils yet. I get pretty low efficiency which is why I add a little extra of the grains.

Just finishing the boil on this. Smells great! My preboil gravity was spot on, per Brewsmith. Color looks light though.

Does this look right before I order???

idigg said:

Does this look right before I order???

Click to expand...

Do you have a grain mill? if not you'll want the 2-row milled.

Brewed this on Sun. Missed my OG by a few points but that's maybe because my mash tun is fairly large which made for a very thin (as in thickness) mash (say about 1.5 to 2 in). It will still be a good beer I think.

Gonna Brew this in the next few days.. Sounds really easy, cheap, and good... (my big three requirements)

Question... Ed, why did you specify to 'not hydrate the yeast' before pitching?

r8rphan said:

Gonna Brew this in the next few days.. Sounds really easy, cheap, and good... (my big three requirements)

Question... Ed, why did you specify to 'not hydrate the yeast' before pitching?

Click to expand...

I too am wondering about this. I didn't hydrate in my current brew and it's fermenting nicely.

jgourd said:

I too am wondering about this. I didn't hydrate in my current brew and it's fermenting nicely.

Click to expand...

I have always either pitched two packs or hydrated.. so I'm a little nervous about that.. But then I have brewed pretty much IPA's exclusively...

So maybe it's because of reduced gravity, that there's a concern about over pitching or something..

Ok .. So i just finished brewing this beer and it went into the fermenter looking like Dark brown mud water... This is the second beer i have done that has unfortunately looked like this and the first one turned out to be horrible! .. So of course im a bit worried about how this one will turn out .. I just do not see this beer clearing up like the one in the picture haha I mean i doubt it will get even close... I bought my items from Northern Brewer and maybe i screwed up ordering...

8lbs Rahr -2 - Row Malt
.5 lb Simpsons medium Crystal
2lbs German Vienna Malt.
2.oz cascades
1 Danstar

So i am thinking maybe i bought the wrong base malt. The recipe called for Pale Malt but i assumed that Northern Brewers 2 - row base malt would be pale. ,, and Secondly all i could find was simpsons Medium Crystal ... could not find crystal 10l. Is this the reason i ended up with muddy looking beer? I ended up with a OG of 1.058. Opinions please !

I'm not sure what 'simpsons' crystal is, but the crystal malt affects the color...

I'm definitely not an expert, but .058 is getting into IPA range (only without the hops).. How much wort did you start wit, and how much did you end up with... and how long did you boil.. Sounds almost like too much wort was boiled off...

Just ordered the grain bill from AHB... can't wait to brew this beer based on ya'lls results! KC

First batch this year... should be a keeper!

We'll i boiled down approx. 8 gallons of wort to 5 gallons of wort. LAst time i did 7.5 and ended up with 4.5 going in fermenter. Boiling off too much will cause dark ugly beer?

Well, I picked up the ingredients for a 10G batch of this brew today (but with crystal 15L instead of 10L.. no biggie)... Tomorrow morn I mash.. tomorrow night or Sunday brew... Pitch yeast the day after I brew (sunday or monday)....

This is the first official batch to kick off 'THE PIPELINE!' Ordered a few pounds of hops, and in about a week, I'm buying my first 50lb bag of malt and about $30 bux worth of dry yeast as well as some more hops (and rhisomes)...... I need two more cornys (for six total) within a month.. If I start brewing 10G every other week for the next couple months, I should have a nice rotation going...

What better way to start 'THE PIPELINE' than with an APA that could very well become the basis for my own house ale?

so, i brewed this two weeks ago, as my first AG. Been in primary for two weeks.

trying to decide between leaving in primary, or to secondary it.

been brewing about a year, I used to use the 1-2-3 method, then after reading Jamil's book starting doing long primaries, around 3 -4 weeks.

I now keg, so i crashed cool my last 2 beers in primary, and noticed a cleaner, clear beer.

What exactly is gained by secondary, isn't it better to leave on yeast?
Does it really clear it more ?

Edwort has a quick turnaround, 7 -10 days, but then keg conditions for weeks.

I don't have the room in my fridge, so i tend to leave beers in primary longer then keg/bottle.
thanx for the read, Sorry about the length....

fishnuttoo said:

so, i brewed this two weeks ago, as my first AG. Been in primary for two weeks.

trying to decide between leaving in primary, or to secondary it.

been brewing about a year, I used to use the 1-2-3 method, then after reading Jamil's book starting doing long primaries, around 3 -4 weeks.

I now keg, so i crashed cool my last 2 beers in primary, and noticed a cleaner, clear beer.

What exactly is gained by secondary, isn't it better to leave on yeast?
Does it really clear it more ?

Edwort has a quick turnaround, 7 -10 days, but then keg conditions for weeks.

I don't have the room in my fridge, so i tend to leave beers in primary longer then keg/bottle.
thanx for the read, Sorry about the length....

Click to expand...

I left mine in Primary for a month and dry hopped it as well. Turned out very clear. I do have chill haze after 1 week in Keg but that will go away, although I doubt it will last long enough. I too listened to Jamil's show about long primary and only secondary if I need the space for another brew.

ohill1981 said:

Ok .. So i just finished brewing this beer and it went into the fermenter looking like Dark brown mud water... This is the second beer i have done that has unfortunately looked like this and the first one turned out to be horrible! .. So of course im a bit worried about how this one will turn out .. I just do not see this beer clearing up like the one in the picture haha I mean i doubt it will get even close... I bought my items from Northern Brewer and maybe i screwed up ordering...

8lbs Rahr -2 - Row Malt
.5 lb Simpsons medium Crystal
2lbs German Vienna Malt.
2.oz cascades
1 Danstar

So i am thinking maybe i bought the wrong base malt. The recipe called for Pale Malt but i assumed that Northern Brewers 2 - row base malt would be pale. ,, and Secondly all i could find was simpsons Medium Crystal ... could not find crystal 10l. Is this the reason i ended up with muddy looking beer? I ended up with a OG of 1.058. Opinions please !

Click to expand...

I would say its dark because you used the eqiivilent of 60L instead of 10L with the medium crystal malt. I don't know why it wouldn't clear up, it will probably just be a bit darker. I make a stone clone that calls for 60L and it taste just fine.

Just brewed up a batch of this. First full 5.5 gal AG batch and nailed everything (mash temp, OG). Didn't quite have enough cascade so I used chinook for the 60 min hop addition. Can't wait to drink this stuff!!!

I just polished off the last of this last night. I have the ingredients for batch #2 en route. Great beer Ed!

Just finished the mash for a 10G version of this...

7G in to the tun @ 170 degrees... 21 lbs of grain... held at 153 for an hour (avg).. sparged once at 154 degrees... sparged again @ about 157 to get the last three gallons I needed to collect 13 gallons for brewing tomorrow... Have two buckets with 13 gallons between them ready to rock...

This is my second AG batch.. so far, things are going better... Taking the lazy, no hurry approach for now.. mash one day, brew the next.. aerate and pitch the day after...

So far, I like this 'uncluttered' approach to AG brewing.... mucho mejor, senor! (e muy facil!)

Well I finally got on board and did one of these this morning. I've been doing AG for over 10 years, so I am not the little cowboy at his first rodeo, but I had to give this a shot to see what all the whoop-dee-doo was about. Or what the "brew-ha-ha" was about?

First off, all the instructions are dead-on, correct and simple. I hit all my numbers right on the nose, volumes, temps, and gravities. I am not real big on following directions but since this was a tried-and-true recipe I did my best to follow directions and see where the chips fell.

Plugging everything into Beersmith gave me almost exactly (within a percent or two) the Edwort recipe, but a little short on IBU's. I put 1.053 into the fermenter with no jacking around, thats just how it boiled out, and I got exactly 5.5 as per the Beersmith volume recommendations.

I did make a couple changes due to what I had on hand: Crystal 40 instead of C20, and Marris Otter instead of Vienna. Also added 1/2 pound of Carafoam, just because I always do, and a big handfull of rice hulls. For yeast I went with Wyeast 1056 because I somehow accidently "smacked a pack" of this last week in the fridge and it was swollen and awake and ready to find some wort. I made a 2 quart/48 hour starter with the 1056 and I think I pitched some real worker-bees. I also added another .5 ounces of Saaz at the 15 minute mark hops addition, just to get rid of them. And I like a bit of Saaz.

Anyway I think this ended up pretty true to form to the original intent. I anticipate an awesome brew out of this.

This is a perfect recipe for a person's first all grain. Again, all my numbers were absolutely dead on the mark just following the directions given by EdWort. I actually was right proud of myself. I have never had the numbers go as perfect with any other recipe.

EDIT/UPDATE: I pitched the 1056 starter about noon, and by 8PM it was rocking at a temp of 72 degrees.

Thanks EdWort !

Well, my efficiency is a lot lower than Eds.. so I ended up with 1.045 OG... even after boiling an extra 10 mins before adding hops.. So I reduced the two bittering additions by about 10% and added the unused hops back in the with the last two additions..

I aerated for about 10 mins in each bucket (first time using buckets instead of carboys), and pitched the yeast without hydrating.. I pitched pretty cool, because in my house, pitching at 68 tends to cause some fusels.. however, I pitched even cooler than I had intended.. about 63-64 instead of the 65-66 I had intended..

It's been about 17hrs and no noticeable ferment yet (I hate not being able to see the yeasties).. but fermometers read 63.. So early this morning, I set them on some pieces of styrofoam to get them off the cold floor, and turned the heater up from 68-70.. Threw a few logs in the fireplace to see if I can raise the temp in the laundry room.. It's the coolest room in the house, and why I ferment in there now..

If I see no evidence of activity at the 24 hr mark, I might risk taking a peek, and at the very least, point a work lamp at the buckets to heat them up a couple three degrees...

Because I'm pitching lower temp wise, I'm starting to wish I had at least rehydrated the yeast first.. Eventually, I'll get this stuff fermented..

As far as the efficiency goes, I guess I better figure on adding about 10% to my grain bill from now on.. at least until I figure out how to improve my efficiency..

I see a water test in my near future..

r8rphan said:

Well, my efficiency is a lot lower than Eds.. so I ended up with 1.045 OG... even after boiling an extra 10 mins before adding hops.. So I reduced the two bittering additions by about 10% and added the unused hops back in the with the last two additions..

I aerated for about 10 mins in each bucket (first time using buckets instead of carboys), and pitched the yeast without hydrating.. I pitched pretty cool, because in my house, pitching at 68 tends to cause some fusels.. however, I pitched even cooler than I had intended.. about 63-64 instead of the 65-66 I had intended..

It's been about 17hrs and no noticeable ferment yet (I hate not being able to see the yeasties).. but fermometers read 63.. So early this morning, I set them on some pieces of styrofoam to get them off the cold floor, and turned the heater up from 68-70.. Threw a few logs in the fireplace to see if I can raise the temp in the laundry room.. It's the coolest room in the house, and why I ferment in there now..

If I see no evidence of activity at the 24 hr mark, I might risk taking a peek, and at the very least, point a work lamp at the buckets to heat them up a couple three degrees...

Because I'm pitching lower temp wise, I'm starting to wish I had at least rehydrated the yeast first.. Eventually, I'll get this stuff fermented..

As far as the efficiency goes, I guess I better figure on adding about 10% to my grain bill from now on.. at least until I figure out how to improve my efficiency..

I see a water test in my near future..

Click to expand...

I had some similar results. My OG came in about 4 points lower than estimated. For my system, large sparges (which tend to go with lower OG brews) don't do so great. I have to nail it down. But it doesn't matter. It will still be a good beer I think. I also started to ferment cooler since my water is fairly cool this time of year (58F). It took about 24-36 hours to get going but then it was down to business. After about 4 days, fermentation has slowed.

I see evidence of fermentation in one of the buckets now.. Gas is starting to move water out of one of the blowoff tubes, and a small layer of krausen is visible through the wall of the bucket...

I suspect the other bucket will follow suit fairly soon.. Should all be chugging along nicely within a few hours...

I'm gonna have my water tested to see if I need to adjust the PH.. Otherwise, I guess I'll just add some grain to my bills from now on...

This beer should be fairly close, although slightly watered down, as I reduced the bittering slightly to compensate...

If I have all my hops and what not by next weekend, I'm probably gonna try brewing that centennial blonde that is also pretty popular..

After that, I might take another stab at a stone IPA clone... the first time I tired it was during the hops shortage, and the recipe was altered due to not having the right hops.. So it was nowhere close..

Trouble with that clone, is that there's a million different recipes out there for it, and I have no idea which ones will get me closest..

A little concerned about infection on this batch..

One of the buckets, had a pretty significant leak where the blowoff tube was attached to the bucket lid..

So I decided to pull the lid and fix the problem (the fittings were overtightened, causing the o rings to deform...)

I sanitized the crap out of my hands by washing them in the blowoff bucket (has five gallons of star san solution from last night).. and pulled the lid...

I saw something floating in the thin layer of krausen that looked like a bug.. So I got my stainless steel stir spoon, dipped it in the star san, and pulled the object out of the beer.. It was the bar code label from the pvc fitting I used as a locknut on the bottom side of the bucket lid.. Now I soaked these fittings for an hour or so before I used them, so I'm hoping that there was no longer anything on the label that could cause infection...

Odds are good, that the label fell off of the fitting in the other bucket too... I didn't think the labels were a big deal, since they would be 4 inches or so above the beer... Won't make 'that' mistake again..

Anyways, I think I fixed the leak, and am now waiting for it to start clearing the 1" burp tube like the other bucket...

Man, I hope I didn't infect this stuff! I've never had an infected batch, and was hoping to keep perfect record... better brew another batch ASAP in case this one is bad so that the pipeline isn't interrupted...

Any way to tell in advance if a batch is infected?

I like carboys a lot better.. although the 'handle' on the buckets is sure a nice thing...

Dang.. Leaking worse now...

New brewer here. Brewed up the extract version of this yesterday for my second batch. I was planning to follow the recipe exactly but accidentally used a pound of Crystal 10 instead of 8 oz. When I ordered the ingredients 1 lb was the smallest I could buy.

How will that change the final product?

I plan to do an all grain BIAB version next and wanted to compare them. I guess if I like it i could do the same thing again for comparison purposes.

smokewater said:

How will that change the final product?

Click to expand...

It will be fine..

Just drank the sample of this stuff during transfer to keg (kegged one, leaving the other on the yeast for a few more days)..

Pretty good.. Kinda reminds me of fosters bitter... It has a very lager like taste to me.... This is gonna be good.. can't wait to drink it... Gotta polish of a keg of IPA tonight, and then I can put this stuff under pressure/cold crash it...

Just started the pre heat mash water for the centennial blonde..

So I should have 20G of session beer for the super bowl....

kegged a 5 G batch of extract columbus IPA today too... but gonna let that sit at room temp for a week or so yet before I put it in the fridge...

The pipeline is a rollin'...

Did this today as my first all grain and third batch ever. Got about 3 gallons on my stovetop with a brew in a bag. Got about 72% efficiency with a final gravity about 1.046. I had to use a bit more 2 row since I didn't have quite enough Vienna. I wonder if I ground my grain too fine as the finished wort was quite cloudy. I hope it settles out.
Tasted the wort was bitter and sweet should be good.

@ R8RFAN: You have a very different way of brewing doing it over 3 days. You also are not getting your grain up to temp when you are sparging. You need to be closer to 170 (168 actually), not just the mash temp. That will definitely affect your efficiency. You are also VERY prone to infection if you let the wort cool and not aerate or add the yeast until another day. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to help.......