Pull-Through Compression Fittings for Soldering

I was pretty happy with the simple pull through fitting that was male on one side and female on the other. It made silver soldering a bulkhead nearly foolproof:



If you were putting them into a keg and then using a diptube on the inside you still had to thread in a separate compression fitting. The same could be said for installing a HERMS coil. Here's how you get all that extra bulk out of the equation:



They come in either 1/2" or 5/8" compression sizes.

Awesome, you keep coming up with great brew gear.

Where were you 5 months ago when i bought all my couplers to weld to my pots

FuzzeWuzze said:

Where were you 5 months ago when i bought all my couplers to weld to my pots

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I was drinking beer.

Here's what they look like paired up with a diptube:



Considering that you pull the fitting so that the stop rim is against the inside wall of the vessel, look at how compact that compression part is. Basically only the compression nut is exposed.

The plain pull through compression fittings and diptube assemblies are now available and shipping immediately:

http://www.brewhardware.com/?Search=pull

This is very cool. I need to see if there's any way to retrofit in my keg.

Bobby, what size hole before pull through?

The range is 3/4 up to 7/8" with 13/16" being ideal.

Bobby_M said:

I was pretty happy with the simple pull through fitting that was male on one side and female on the other. It made silver soldering a bulkhead nearly foolproof:

If you were putting them into a keg and then using a diptube on the inside you still had to thread in a separate compression fitting. The same could be said for installing a HERMS coil. Here's how you get all that extra bulk out of the equation:

They come in either 1/2" or 5/8" compression sizes.

Click to expand...

is there any chance to get some of these pull-through fittings with a larger outside diameter? my existing Keggle(s) have bulkhead fittings (http://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-weldless-ball-valve.html) which require a minimum 1 inch hole. (mine are slightly larger than 1 inch) I'd like to solder in some of these fittings, but unfortunately my existing holes are too large.


btw, the 1/2 pull through fittings are fantastic -- I just bought some and installed on my HLT this past weekend. couldn't be easier.

Bobby - is there any reason why these couldn't be pulled through to the inside? So the silver solder would be on the outside of the pot?

Doed said:

Bobby - is there any reason why these couldn't be pulled through to the inside? So the silver solder would be on the outside of the pot?

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Not to speak for Bobby, but
If you look at the picture of the keg I have above you'll notice that the middle fitting is inserted into the keg instead of pulled out of it. It works great.....

Edit: I used the fitting pulled into the keg so that I could use my mpt thermometer without a coupler.

You can pull them in either direction but it makes much more sense to have the male threads on the outside and it's not possible to pull the taper back out and spin it around. In the case of a half or full coupling, the dimple can go in either direction and the fitting can go in from the wide side of the flare in either orientation.

I have a question about this pull through fitting... the instructions on the BrewHardware site say to pull the fitting through until the ring at the female end of the fitting makes contact with the pot wall... maybe I am not picturing this correctly but wouldn't that ring cover up the depression making it difficult to place the ring of solder into the depression? Is there a picture of the inside of the pot after this fitting is pulled through? I have just bought a new pot and was going to install some weldless fittings until I discovered the great threads about soldering fittings into the pot. Thanks!!!!

No, there's still plenty of trough area for the solder to pool. In fact, it will take at least 3 full circles of 1/16" solder.

Thanks! Clears it up.

Hey, I *thought* that looked familiar...

I have this torch thing, do you guys think it would be good enough to silver solder these fittings or do I need to get a map torch?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HAT47S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These pull through fittings are the best. I am going back and replacing the weldless fittings now. Never did like the "soft" fell of the weldless.

How difficult is it to compress these onto a HERMs coil. Seems like the bottom one ma be difficult, as it's essentially welded.

I'm wondering ease of install compared to your weldless compression bulkheads.

I just built a customer a hot liquor tank with a coil using these fittings and it wasn't too difficult. I had 2" of space between the coil and the wall of the pot and it was enough to get an adjustable wrench in there. It helps that the compression fitting is so compact and tight to the wall. I did use nylon ferrules so it didn't take a bunch of torque to seal it and make it snug. If you were to go with stainless ferrules, you would need to swage them to the coil outside of the pot using a regular NPT compression fitting first.

Bobby_M said:

I just built a customer a hot liquor tank with a coil using these fittings and it wasn't too difficult. I had 2" of space between the coil and the wall of the pot and it was enough to get an adjustable wrench in there. It helps that the compression fitting is so compact and tight to the wall. I did use nylon ferrules so it didn't take a bunch of torque to seal it and make it snug. If you were to go with stainless ferrules, you would need to swage them to the coil outside of the pot using a regular NPT compression fitting first.

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Thanks, I think I get it now. I was thinking you couldn't unscrew the fitting once swaged(with metal ferrules). So you can? Or do you mean solder the fitting in after you swage them?

Swaging with stainless ferrules basically locks the thin ferrule onto the tubing. The nut then becomes captured and can't be slid off. However, you can detach and reattach the tubing into the fitting over and over again at that point. The swaging process takes a lot of torque and there's no way you'd be able to get it down inside the pot. I would solder both pull through fittings in first, then use a separate compression fitting locked into a bench vise to set/swage the ferrule onto each of the coil leads. After you're done, the coil leads will each have a nut and narrow swaged ring on them. You'll be left with an extra compression fitting that is no longer needed.

Thanks, Bobby!

I had al my keggles fitted with your weldless bulkheads and now finally switching them over to these silver soldered bulkheads. Any tips on how I could also get the sightglasses put onto silver soldered bulkheads? https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/lts.htm

vince805 said:

I had al my keggles fitted with your weldless bulkheads and now finally switching them over to these silver soldered bulkheads. Any tips on how I could also get the sightglasses put onto silver soldered bulkheads? https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/lts.htm

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I took a grinder to the fitting and cut the threads off. I then pulled the fitting into the kettle vise out of the kettle. Two things to watch. First make the hole just a little bigger. With no threads you need that little extra wiggle room to get it in strait. Second. Make sure you don't pull it much. You want it just flush with the outside. Pull it to much and won't look right.