element in mlt

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McCuckerson

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Need some help here. Why cant we put electric elements right in the the MLT? If we used a 3000w/220v element at 110vac it wouldn't scorch anything right?
 
If you are constantly stirring the mash, maybe it would be fine... but unless you keep that grist next to the element moving, it is just going to get really hot around the element. Think of your grist as insulation, you need to keep it mixing during this process.
 
If you are constantly stirring the mash, maybe it would be fine... but unless you keep that grist next to the element moving, it is just going to get really hot around the element. Think of your grist as insulation, you need to keep it mixing during this process.

So, recirculating would be ok?
 
This why people use RIMS tubes. Grain constantly on the element would most likely scorch that grain or burn up the element. Give it a shot. You could start a revolution.
 
Just begin stirring as soon as you hear it start to sizzle, should be 3-5 seconds IME. Even at a low wattage, without any movement at the element, it would likely locally overheat the mash adjacent to the element.
 
This idea is perfectly fine, and is tried and true. What you need to do though is find a way to place the element BELOW the false bottom, and constantly recirculate. This will work the same as RIMS, and will not scorch as long as you keep the liquid moving back to the top of the mash. The hard part is getting the element fit below the bottom. RIMS is just an easier arrangement. It would NOT be a good idea to place the element in the mash itself in contact with the grain. The grain will not move around, and will indeed scorch on the element.
This is also how people use a direct-fire mash now, except a burner is typically used rather than an element.
 
This is also how people use a direct-fire mash now, except a burner is typically used rather than an element.

You guys have convinced me that an element in the mash is bad:cross::cross:

How would a direct-fire with control work? You would need a solenoid and an igniter right?
 
Just begin stirring as soon as you hear it start to sizzle, should be 3-5 seconds IME. Even at a low wattage, without any movement at the element, it would likely locally overheat the mash adjacent to the element.

LOL, Easy decoction!
 
Not to go off topic here, but if you have an HLT... you are heating that somehow, and if you are looking at electric for the MLT... why not just heat ONE vessel, the HLT and make a HERMS. Super easy, super consistent, tried and true design, and it is hands off.
 
I have used a homemade "heatstick" in a Gott cooler to increase the mash temperature. I continually stirred with it until the mash got to the next step. It worked fine.
Now I use a direct-heat converted keg mashtun. I have a full 15" false bottom and it sits on a propane burner. I recirculate with a pump while heating the keg. I have a thermometer on the keg output to make sure it doesn't get too hot.
 
Have you given up on the HERMS already. There are alot of HERMS breweries out there making good beer.
No, I haven't given up, I am just frustrated with the temp fluctuations. It seems like everyone does something different but says: "Mine works great". Yet every mash method I try is inconsistent. I just want to set something to 154f and have it be 154f.... My HERMS is good and I am proud of the work I put into it, I just want it to be more friendly I guess. HERMS is like a woman, you really never know what kind of mood she'll be in until you fire her up!
 
No, I haven't given up, I am just frustrated with the temp fluctuations. It seems like everyone does something different but says: "Mine works great". Yet every mash method I try is inconsistent. I just want to set something to 154f and have it be 154f.... My HERMS is good and I am proud of the work I put into it, I just want it to be more friendly I guess. HERMS is like a woman, you really never know what kind of mood she'll be in until you fire her up!

Don't give up on it. In your original post I sited some examples. Most guys either monitor the HERMS coil output or the HLT. Why not give it a try. If you do test it when putting your sensor on the output of the HERMS coil, run your HERMS and put a manual thermometer in the MLT to view the result.

Thanks for bumping the thread/poll. I have not brewed with my HERMS yet, but I spent a few days doing water tests with it.

My probe is at the HEX output and seemed to work just fine for the wet tests. When ramping up temps, the temp at the probe would overshoot a few degrees before settling back down to my set-temp, but the temp of the water in the MLT did not overshoot by more than 0.5*F.

I think I'm going to give it a shot with the probe mounted to the output of the coil, but I did go ahead and have my welder friend install a 1/2" coupling in the side of the HLT. I plugged it for now, but can move the probe there and plug the hole in the coil output if I decide I want to try it the other way.

Don't worry about what it says on the PID display. It's what it says in the MLT that is important.
 
You would need an excellent stirring mechanism to keep the mash all at one temp if you put an element in the mlt. It is much easier to keep the mash at constant temp all the way through by using some traditional HERMS or RIMS setup.
 
I can throw together a double barrel RIMS heater for you if you want... then you can use that to heat your strike, then just dump the grain in, and use it for MLT temp. control. For about $160 in parts.
 
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