Kill-A-Watt Brewery Build Compilation

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4 elements, each needs (2) so that is 8
2 pumps, each needs (1) so that is 2

Total 10

Why the change of heart on the elements? Previously it was 1 SSR per element.
Because you're selling it? Would you still go with one if it was your personal rig?
 
Why the change of heart on the elements? Previously it was 1 SSR per element.
Because you're selling it? Would you still go with one if it was your personal rig?

No, because I dont plan to have any physical switches, like on my old rig. Those switches are what made it possible to control current on BOTH legs to the element. Regardless of who owns it, both legs need to be cut when it is OFF. IT was that way on my old system, it will be this way on this one.
 
You can't make beer on that. It won't work. :D

Man, that thing is sweet, and I am green with envy. I laid awake last night thinking about what gear I can sell to get a single blichmann. Those things are the balls.

I know, it wont work at all... it will be a shiney sculpture though. Nothing I make ever works!

They are 'spensive, but they really are nice, since they are designed to do what we are doing. They arent modified chili pots :D
 
I know, it wont work at all... it will be a shiney sculpture though. Nothing I make ever works!

They are 'spensive, but they really are nice, since they are designed to do what we are doing. They arent modofoed chili pots :D

yeah, the only thing that sucks about them is waiting on it to be shipped
 
which is where? tuesday will be 2 weeks for me :(
edit: I just wish I had an idea of when it will be here so I can get my starter going

Indiana...

I got mine from BMW, I talked to Ed, sounds like he can get an idea of a ship date from Blichman
 
Nice idea on getting a single build thread. I was loosing track of all the others... I kinda guess you were doing a brutus 20-alike. You gonna use solenoids or something for liquid control? I suppose, however, you only have one liquid path. Just working it out in my head:)
 
Indiana...

I got mine from BMW, I talked to Ed, sounds like he can get an idea of a ship date from Blichman

Funny thing is, they're made in West Lafayette. I went to Purdue and was totally oblivious to this! :D
 
Killer build.

I am putting together stuff to build a similar rig using 2 kegs and a dual element RIMS, one for recirculated mashing, and then both for fly sparging. I think mine will only use one pump too. I even kicked around the idea of a dual element keggle like what you'd done.

I love the built in chiller idea. I was planning on doing a CFC, but after seeing yours, might just modify my plans.
 
Killer build.

I am putting together stuff to build a similar rig using 2 kegs and a dual element RIMS, one for recirculated mashing, and then both for fly sparging. I think mine will only use one pump too. I even kicked around the idea of a dual element keggle like what you'd done.

I love the built in chiller idea. I was planning on doing a CFC, but after seeing yours, might just modify my plans.

The dual element kettle and RIMS is unnecessary, but the additional cost is minimal... at least I dont have to hear how "weak" my system is again :D

The integral chiller is nice, costly, but nice
 
All of the stuff for the stand should be here in a week or so... then I can get all of the major components mounted. Once that is completed (1-2 weeks), then I can get the BCS and SSRs installed and fire it up!
 
The dual element kettle and RIMS is unnecessary, but the additional cost is minimal... at least I dont have to hear how "weak" my system is again :D

The integral chiller is nice, costly, but nice

I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

Also, for your dual elements, I'm assuming you will be running on 1 PID and 1 thermocouple, but 2 SSRs, one for each element? This would be a more cost effective way for me as well because I was going to run one PID for RIMS and one PID for sparging, each with their own thermocouple.

Ya, your stainless tubing is nice, but too rich for my blood. If I incorporate your idea, it will be with copper tubing instead.
 
I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

Also, for your dual elements, I'm assuming you will be running on 1 PID and 1 thermocouple, but 2 SSRs, one for each element? This would be a more cost effective way for me as well because I was going to run one PID for RIMS and one PID for sparging, each with their own thermocouple.

Ya, your stainless tubing is nice, but too rich for my blood. If I incorporate your idea, it will be with copper tubing instead.

I am sure you know this, but it bears pointing out, 7000W would run you just over 29A, leaving you no room to run a single pump, unless of course you are running them on another circuit, which you may.

The on demand water heater idea should work, mathematically, with 7000W in the heater.

EDIT
This is BCS controlled... EACH element will have (2) SSRs and have its OWN PID/Control output. SO, the RIMS will have (4) SSRs and (2) controls to run it, the Kettle will have (4) SSRs and (2) PID/control outputs as well... The pumps will each have a single SSR and a single control output, each

This will allow me and the BCS to operate the kettle and the RIMS on a single elelement when it is programmed to do so, and during certain processes run both elements with full PID control or manual, or ON/OFF control.

The kettle will have the option of temp. controlled PID, but that will not be used for the boil, only duty cycle for that.

The integrated coil was pricey, $232 or so, but the 50' copper chiller was $15 MORE than the 50' SS chiller at Midwest... SS and copper are very close in price when it comes to tubing. The fittings were mucho pricey
 
I am sure you know this, but it bears pointing out, 7000W would run you just over 29A, leaving you no room to run a single pump, unless of course you are running them on another circuit, which you may.

Give or take 10% on the circuit breaker. I had a customer running a dryer on a 20 amp circuit for years. The dryer was rated at 30 but will draw about 21 or so under full load. Well, after some years the circuit breaker starts tripping and I get the call. They didn't want to hear it was a feed problem because it had worked fine for so many years....... (I pointed to the tag on the dryer that said 30 amps and the breaker that said 20 and that seemed to help......)

That said, notice the dryer draws about 2/3's the rated current.
 
I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

On 30 Amps I would say one 1500W and a 4500W will get you where you need to be. with some extra amps to to spare.
 
Ya, I was planning on using a 110v pump on a separate outlet, but I have considered upgrading my 240v outlet to 40A (if the wire is big enough) and running a 240v pump instead.

It might work as is, or not. I suppose those 3500w elements have a tolerance as well. My luck would be that I have a -10% outlet and 2 +10% elements.

I missed the BCS controller detail. I'll surely be keeping an eye on this build.

Sorry for the hijack, back to the bling!
 
Final orders placed today...

Everything will be in house soon to complete the build.
 
Final orders placed today...

Everything will be in house soon to complete the build.

Wow... you are on fire!

What do you have planned for insulating your vessels?
I'm guessing it will have to be removable so you can use all that bling as a mirror to shave with in the mornings.

Ed
 
Nice Pol, glad to see you have come over to the dark side of the Brutus 20 clan! I think you will enjoy the ease of brewing with a 2 vessel system.
 
The removable chiller:
Have you done the math on SST for heat transfer?
It's an awful lot slower than Aluminum or copper.
Using SST for a heat exchanger means upping the anti either in chilling fluid or surface area.

I have toyed with the idea of using a couple of Peltier devices to chill prop' glycol. I may end up there eventually. But I'm thinking of going with an inline chiller made from 3/8 Aluminum jig plate and 1/4" Aluminum Tubes. with one wall of Polycarbonate for the visual.
I figure I can get 50 linear feet of tube in a device about 3x6x12" - - assuming my aluminum soldering skills are up to the task.
 
The removable chiller:
Have you done the math on SST for heat transfer?
It's an awful lot slower than Aluminum or copper.
Using SST for a heat exchanger means upping the anti either in chilling fluid or surface area.

I'm planing on an inline chiller.


And the Sparge.

I've been looking at pictures of the auto sparge.
It seems like it's a float valve with a SST float ball

Is this to compensate for any fluid that evaporates?
If I have your build right it's a RIMS rig - - yes?
Anyway how does the thing work?


Clamps and other fitting sources that may be less pricey
http://www.jmesanitary.com/category/2/1/Clamps.aspx
http://www.brew-usa.com/Products-Triclamps_Connectors.html
http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop2.html
 
Cliff... the SS chiller conspiracy has been beaten worse than a dead horse around here. To summerize, it make no appreciable difference. All else equal, SS make take 1 minute longer on a 10g batch. With my SS chiller exactly like POL's, I could chill 10g from boil to lager pitch temps in about 18 minutes with 55ºF groundwater. Search around if you want to see details, there are a ton of threads about it.
 
Cliff... the SS chiller conspiracy has been beaten worse than a dead horse around here. To summerize, it make no appreciable difference. All else equal, SS make take 1 minute longer on a 10g batch. With my SS chiller exactly like POL's, I could chill 10g from boil to lager pitch temps in about 18 minutes with 55ºF groundwater. Search around if you want to see details, there are a ton of threads about it.

I wondered when Pol said he was going stainless but figured he has enough experience to know what he is doing. What is the wall thickness on the SS? Probably a lot thinner than the copper so that makes the difference would be my guess?
 
Yeah, HBers have been using SS chillers for quite some time, you can buy them commercially. It isnt really an issue.

Um, how does it work? I dont know yet... never used a RIMS, maybe it wont, most of my stuff doesnt work, really. The double barrel RIMS heater will make things interesting, most time will be spent working out processes for the system.

It has come together fast, have 6 of my 10 SSRs and heatsinks in now... the others will be here tomorrow, the E-bay cooling fan is here too, compliments of a fellow HBTer.

The stand will be going together next week when I get home from my NEXT trip... unfortunately I have only 2 days off this week.

Ummmm, hopefully in 2 weeks (not a lot of time off this week) I will be in a position to start firing elements and playing with programming the BCS brain.

I am pleased with the build... I think it is solid and nothing has really been spared on it. These are all high quality parts and it has been carefully thought out and constructed. It will give me, or someone, years of brewing fun I am sure.
 
The removable chiller:
Have you done the math on SST for heat transfer?
It's an awful lot slower than Aluminum or copper.
Using SST for a heat exchanger means upping the anti either in chilling fluid or surface area.

I'm planing on an inline chiller.


And the Sparge.

I've been looking at pictures of the auto sparge.
It seems like it's a float valve with a SST float ball

Is this to compensate for any fluid that evaporates?
If I have your build right it's a RIMS rig - - yes?
Anyway how does the thing work?


Clamps and other fitting sources that may be less pricey
http://www.jmesanitary.com/category/2/1/Clamps.aspx
http://www.brew-usa.com/Products-Triclamps_Connectors.html
http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop2.html


FWIW, I paid about half that for my Triclamps... and all of the fittings that I needed, that BargainFittings carried (and some they didnt at the time) I bought from BargainFittings. I dont think you can get a better deal on fittings than I got.
 
Pol-

About the integrated chiller....would it have been physically possible based on stiffness, etc. to "line" the pot with SS tubing, i.e. could you have soldered it in a uniform coil to the inside of the pot? Say, maybe 2x50' coils with a tubextube swagelok adapter....and bulkhead fittings to the outside with QD's/Triclamps?

I envision lining a pot with ~1/2" SS coil and dropping a boil basket inside of that.

On another note, how do you plan to CIP your coil? Seems like you'd need to scrub the backs of the tubing where the sprayball can't reach.....
 
Pol-

About the integrated chiller....would it have been physically possible based on stiffness, etc. to "line" the pot with SS tubing, i.e. could you have soldered it in a uniform coil to the inside of the pot? Say, maybe 2x50' coils with a tubextube swagelok adapter....and bulkhead fittings to the outside with QD's/Triclamps?

I envision lining a pot with ~1/2" SS coil and dropping a boil basket inside of that.

On another note, how do you plan to CIP your coil? Seems like you'd need to scrub the backs of the tubing where the sprayball can't reach.....

Um, I can not say that it cant be done, because someone will prove me wrong. I couldnt do it, no way... SS is tenacious, Id be in agony trying to line a pot with it.

As for CIP, I dont know how I am going to do it. In the past the hot Oxi soaks have stripped everything from my kettles pretty easily, I guess time will tell. I mean, I havent even started a pump yet.
 
Um, I can not say that it cant be done, because someone will prove me wrong. I couldnt do it, no way... SS is tenacious, Id be in agony trying to line a pot with it.

As for CIP, I dont know how I am going to do it. In the past the hot Oxi soaks have stripped everything from my kettles pretty easily, I guess time will tell. I mean, I havent even started a pump yet.

Hey Pol... Will your "Pot Scrubber" fit inside the coil?
I saw that handy device installed in your BK in an earlier photo...
Only problem with those is that over time they tend to swell up and will no longer fit in the same space they used to. You might have to build another one or find an alternative.
 
Nice build!

I'll be interested in the wiring end of it.

I want to wire up a single 240 element for an electric boiler using the PID that I already have that was controlling a 120 element on a HLT

Need another relay for sure.

Looks like Love controllers max out at 16 amps?
 
Hey Pol... Will your "Pot Scrubber" fit inside the coil?
I saw that handy device installed in your BK in an earlier photo...
Only problem with those is that over time they tend to swell up and will no longer fit in the same space they used to. You might have to build another one or find an alternative.

Pot Scrubber??
 
Nice build!

I'll be interested in the wiring end of it.

I want to wire up a single 240 element for an electric boiler using the PID that I already have that was controlling a 120 element on a HLT

Need another relay for sure.

Looks like Love controllers max out at 16 amps?

I do think the Love controllers do max at 16A yes, so youd need an SSR, does that Love have an SSR output?
 
I do think the Love controllers do max at 16A yes, so youd need an SSR, does that Love have an SSR output?


I have a PID thats capable but would prefer to use a Love because they are so user friendly.

I havent found a Love controller that has an SSR output as of yet.

Already have ONE SSR (with a PID) for what was the 120 element but that was an EPIC fail trying to boil a 5 gallon batch.
Experiment over, need more power :D

Worked fine as a stand alone HLT but there is a BIG hump to get from 180 or so to boiling, especially with wort.
 
You're slippin... I was talking about the cute little dude sitting in the BK :D
He should be able to scrub that coil clean for ya.

Ha ha okay okay... not used to being awake before 10am this week, sorry
 
I havent found a Love controller that has an SSR output as of yet.

I use my LOVE with a SSR that has a rated input voltage of 92-277VAC. I just hooked up the love output to the SSR and I was good to go.
 
Pol-

About the integrated chiller....would it have been physically possible based on stiffness, etc. to "line" the pot with SS tubing, i.e. could you have soldered it in a uniform coil to the inside of the pot? Say, maybe 2x50' coils with a tubextube swagelok adapter....and bulkhead fittings to the outside with QD's/Triclamps?

I envision lining a pot with ~1/2" SS coil and dropping a boil basket inside of that.

This was my original plan when I installed my SS coil in my old system. After some talk on HBT, I decided against it. Having the coils against the wall would create a ton of small areas for nasties to hide in and would be difficult to clean IMO. Maybe I am wrong, but I was scared enough not to try it. I think it could physically be done, although it wouldn't look as pretty as you are thinking it will. That stainless is a bear to coil when you can hold every part of it. Coiling it into a pot would be extremely difficult.

On another note, how do you plan to CIP your coil? Seems like you'd need to scrub the backs of the tubing where the sprayball can't reach.....

The beauty of stainless is how easy it cleans. I would do a 1/2 hour soak in hot PBW and the coil would look brand new. Timely cleaning makes all the difference. I never had to scrub mine at all.
 
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