Connecting Weld-B-Gones and False Bottoms

Can anyone tell me where I can find the part to connect the Weld-B-Gone Weldless Deluxe Plus ( http://www.northernbrewer.com/weldless.html part #7583 )
with a Sanke False bottom (http://www.northernbrewer.com/allgrain.html part #7524)?

I know, I need a threaded fitting to screw into the coupler and a compression fitting on the dip tube end but I fail to see a fitting listed on their site that will accomodate both OTHER than the through wall bulkhead which is a welded in fitting.

I'd like to order all the parts from the same supplier if possible and I want them to all be SS.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/plumbing.html

If you are not using hard lines to plumb this, there is a stainless hose barb on the link above.

Why does it need to be SS?

I would just go down to the nearest hardware store and get the parts from the plumbing dept.

Bernie Brewer said:

Why does it need to be SS?

I would just go down to the nearest hardware store and get the parts from the plumbing dept.

Click to expand...

That's what I did.

Bernie Brewer said:

Why does it need to be SS?

I would just go down to the nearest hardware store and get the parts from the plumbing dept.

Click to expand...

Me too. Trying to find SS compression fitting parts and a perfectly pre-bent SS dip tube would be a pain and not worth it IMHO. Note: The weldless FB setup I bought came with the SS pickup tube and the brass compression fitting. My other kegs have copper/brass fittings without the coupler. It's really not necessary.

Also, you're going to want a way to secure that false bottom tightly against the bottom of your kettle, otherwise you'll get grains by and clog up your plumbing. My false bottom is a little different, but I use a SS hose clamp on my pickup tube. See here.

#7589 ABT Bulkhead Thru-Wall

I see the bulkhead, but I understood it as a weld in fitting.... could one simply connect it and put a silicon O-ring between it and the valve?

Oh.. and Sparky, where did you get those fittings? They look really clean and simple.

Morebeer.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/19807/102318

Nostrildamus said:

I see the bulkhead, but I understood it as a weld in fitting.... could one simply connect it and put a silicon O-ring between it and the valve?

Click to expand...

<FTS>
Stainless compression fitting and washers to connect an ABT false bottom w/ elbow (#7524) with a 3/8" FPT ball valve (#P028 or #P061) in a Sanke keg. Drill a 11/16" hole in the wall of the keg to install.
</FTS>

it looks like this could just screw into your existing bulkhead.

NOW THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT! Thanks Sparky!

Any time Chief!

Sparky - could you do me a favour and let me know the following:-

1. The diameter of the perforated stainless mesh
2. The distance from the centre of the dip tube to the wall of the keg

I need the above to work out some fitting details for a keg I've got at home.

If you could help then that would be much appreciated :fro:

mesh is 10" diameter
center of keg to the wall is 7.5"

cheers

Cheers mate, appreciate that

As a side note and the end chapter of my keg plumbing adventure, I ordered my parts from More Beer as per Lil Sparky's instruction. They seem like a stand up company thus far.

-They contacted me right away when I knackered up my Visa number and were nice on the phone.

-They have lower prices and a better weldless setup than Northern Brewer. It's made for people who are not plumbers and are ordering online because the thing is assembled in the photo and comes as a kit.

-They have more shipping options UPS and USPS and more options under both these than I've ever seen on a website before.

So cheers Spark, here's hoping all works out.

Just don't forget to secure it tight against the bottom with a hose clamp or by some other mechanism. The rubber o-ring won't get it done. Other than that it works a charm.

I take it that the dip tube has a flared end and you've simply pushed the screen to the end of the tube, butted it up against the flared portion and secured it with the hose clamp?

No, the dip tube isn't flared. I just secured the hose clamp on the dip tube with a little left on the tube and the pressure holds it in place.