Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

EarthBound said:

http://*****************.com/library/tag/diy-conical-fermenter-plastic/

Don't know WTF is going on, but all those stars actually say "brewers round table" without space between the words. Hilarious that those three words are filtered! I assume HBT has beef with BR.

BTW, the instructions are backwards, i.e., it shows part 3, then part 2, then part 1.

I hope this helps!

Click to expand...

that site is whacked. none of their links work properly.

calicojack said:

i plan on installing a racking arm in my conical. This is what i'm planning to use to breech the wall with :

my question is. if i want to join a 1 1/2" ball valve to it, what do i need to do it? The through wall fitting should be an ID of 1 1/2"? and then use a all thread nipple to join the two?

Click to expand...

1 1/2" racking port is pretty big.... I'm using a 1/2" bulkhead fitting with 1/2" pipe and a 1/2" ball valve. Flows plenty fast. I'm thinking with 1 1/2" you're going to create turbulence in the conical and rack a lot of yeast. Cheers!!!

i posted that half asleep. if you'll notice further down the post everything got switched over to 3/4". having trouble sourcing 1/2"....

The designs of my conical stand and my fermentation chamber went hand-in-hand. Because the stand is fairly short, I can't fit so much of a "vertical" yeast catcher as everyone else has, so I designed a more "horizontal" one.

The ball valve is 1". Below the ball valve, the diameter goes from 1" to 2", then to a 2"x3"x3" tee with cleanout adapters on both sides and cleanout plugs screwed into the adapters.

I welcome any questions, comments, suggestions, criticism, etc.

EarthBound said:

The designs of my conical stand and my fermentation chamber went hand-in-hand. Because the stand is fairly short, I can't fit so much of a "vertical" yeast catcher as everyone else has, so I designed a more "horizontal" one.

The ball valve is 1". Below the ball valve, the diameter goes from 1" to 2", then to a 2"x3"x3" tee with cleanout adapters on both sides and cleanout plugs screwed into the adapters.

I welcome any questions, comments, suggestions, criticism, etc.

Click to expand...

A few thoughts:
1) Be very careful when moving it, due to the 3-leg design, small wheels and being top heavy. I'm thinking it's going to be a bit tippy.
2) Are you going to add a racking port?
3) The yeast catcher looks cool but all you really need is a pint or quart jar to catch the yeast after you've racked the beer off. There will be plenty of yeast on the sides of the conical. That's all I do with mine. Just set a jar on an upside down pail and catch the thick slurry until the jar is full. Easy Peasy.

Cheers, and happy brewing.

Tried that link to the pressure conversion and its wacked can see the third part but not the first 2 anyone have any thaughts on sealing this thing airtight. id feel much happier with an airlock etc. To insure beer is isolated from outside air cause i plan on using it to the end of fermenting all the way to kegging and maybe even under pressure during whole process. hopefully my conical should be waiting for me when i get of work today wont have a chance to go over it close until then.

Pretty cool, I may look into this further

allclene said:

Tried that link to the pressure conversion and its wacked can see the third part but not the first 2 anyone have any thaughts on sealing this thing airtight. id feel much happier with an airlock etc. To insure beer is isolated from outside air cause i plan on using it to the end of fermenting all the way to kegging and maybe even under pressure during whole process. hopefully my conical should be waiting for me when i get of work today wont have a chance to go over it close until then.

Click to expand...

I'm wondering looking at mine if the problem with the air tight seal is not that actual lid but the black piece that the lid screws into and where it attaches to the tank. I would think the way it screws in pretty tight that should seal but I do notice where the black ring and the tank meets there are some small gaps that could make it not air tight. Wonder if we could use some kind of silicone around that ring to seal it, any thoughts.

I took the whole lid assembly off and caulked between the tank and then screwed it back on letting it seal. The lid threads would still leak. I haven't made mine air tight yet.

I'm not sealing mine-I think there is very little chance of stray yeast making it into the conical through the lid assembly.

via ebay i think i might be able to build a stainless racking port for cheaper than i can nylon.....

hamiltont said:

A few thoughts:
1) Be very careful when moving it, due to the 3-leg design, small wheels and being top heavy. I'm thinking it's going to be a bit tippy.
2) Are you going to add a racking port?
3) The yeast catcher looks cool but all you really need is a pint or quart jar to catch the yeast after you've racked the beer off. There will be plenty of yeast on the sides of the conical. That's all I do with mine. Just set a jar on an upside down pail and catch the thick slurry until the jar is full. Easy Peasy.

Cheers, and happy brewing.

Click to expand...

1) I plan to fill it after it's moved into the ferm chamber and drain it while it's in there, as well; so, it won't be moved around much while it's full. Maybe I should weld some handles near the top of the stand.
2)Yep!
3) I agree with you - all you need is a quart jar. However, after reading all of spottedog's posts in both this thread and his thread, I decided to emulate his technique. Building and implementing this yeast catcher is, as you say, Easy Peasy... and it's an interesting concept that is worth trying, IMO. If I don't like it, maybe I can turn it into a bong or a planter or something...

I guess I should've mentioned those first two things already. Cheers!

allclene said:

Tried that link to the pressure conversion and its wacked can see the third part but not the first 2 anyone have any thaughts on sealing this thing airtight. id feel much happier with an airlock etc. To insure beer is isolated from outside air cause i plan on using it to the end of fermenting all the way to kegging and maybe even under pressure during whole process. hopefully my conical should be waiting for me when i get of work today wont have a chance to go over it close until then.

Click to expand...

Here ya go.

I'll be sealing it like that guy... silicone for the ring and weatherstripping to seal the lid. I plan to add a bulkhead fitting on top, as well, for not just blowoff and CO2 but also for filling it with wort. This way I won't move it when it's full.

heads up for anyone on the fence. I just received a 10% off coupon from Ohio AG in my email this morning.

I received the o-ring that I ordered. It is 12" and is too big. I made the mistake of ordering a 1/4" one that is way too skinny. I am going to skip the o-ring. My other fermentors are not air tight and I haven't had any issues.

these have an 8" lid correct?

The inside is just under 12".

Sacdan said:

The inside is just under 12".

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heat shrink the o ring?

It would be easier to buy a smaller one. I am not going to pursue it any further.

what do you guys do for temp control on conicals? No way I could fit it in my chest freezer, and I have a huge chest freezer.

Why the "yeast catchers"? Those seem like they'd be hard to clean and sanitize. I blow off into a growler, but any glass container would work and is much easier to clean and sanitize.

rellot said:

what do you guys do for temp control on conicals? No way I could fit it in my chest freezer, and I have a huge chest freezer.

Click to expand...

A RANCO controlled Fermentation Chamber:





Cheers, and Happy Brewing!!!

proof i need more space for my beer brewing!

ntempleton said:

Why the "yeast catchers"? Those seem like they'd be hard to clean and sanitize. I blow off into a growler, but any glass container would work and is much easier to clean and sanitize.

Click to expand...

It's so that you have a place below the ball valve for the yeast and trub to settle into instead of on top of the valve and up the walls of the cone.

FSR402 said:

It's so that you have a place below the ball valve for the yeast and trub to settle into instead of on top of the valve and up the walls of the cone.

Click to expand...

so you leave the valve open, let the trub/yeast settle into the catcher, close the valve, remove the catcher and then reopen the valve to drain?

I kegged a Vienna Lager today and saved a pint of thick slurry for a Märzen that I’m brewing Sunday. Here are a few pics of the process:

I shoot CO2 in the out post to put a blanket of CO2 on the bottom of the keg before filling it to ward off oxidation.


Here’s a pic of the yeast on the bottom of the conical.


Once the kegs are full I dump the remaining liquid & then start harvesting the yeast.


A pint of thick slurry goes into the fridge & will be pitched directly from the fridge into the Märzen.


A pic of the racking port inside of the conical after it's cleaned.


Thanks for looking! Cheers, and happy brewing!!!

calicojack said:

so you leave the valve open, let the trub/yeast settle into the catcher, close the valve, remove the catcher and then reopen the valve to drain?

Click to expand...

yes

A pic of the racking port inside of the conical after it's cleaned.


Thanks for looking! Cheers, and happy brewing!!![/QUOTE]
I might need a racking port after all... how did you put yours together?
I'm might need to make a ferm chamber too.. Using an "Easy Bake Oven" method for(incandescent lightbulb in a coffee can on an ebay temp control)) helped alot with my last fementation

chrisdb said:

I might need a racking port after all... how did you put yours together?
I'm might need to make a ferm chamber too.. Using an "Easy Bake Oven" method for(incandescent lightbulb in a coffee can on an ebay temp control)) helped alot with my last fementation

Click to expand...

chris this is what i'm planning for my racking arm:
1/2" Nipple
1/2" elbow
and 1 compression nut

screw the 1/2" nipple into your bulkhead, and then use a 1/2" compression nut to secure the elbow into the nipple.

hopefully this will prevent all the build up like pictured above, on the racking arm

great price on the SS elbow... too bad it's barbed instead of threaded

Well my tank showed up the other day but was the one with bulkhead fitting on bottom i called them they said it was their mistake and now are shipping the right one to me with a return slip for the wrong one bummer wanted to set it up and start a beer. When i was talking to them he said the tank will hold the 31psi for ferminting under pressure with no problem so might go that way with it when it gets here. Will post my progress for everyone.

chrisdb said:

great price on the SS elbow... too bad it's barbed instead of threaded

Click to expand...

that's why you use a compression nut

EarthBound said:

The designs of my conical stand and my fermentation chamber went hand-in-hand. Because the stand is fairly short, I can't fit so much of a "vertical" yeast catcher as everyone else has, so I designed a more "horizontal" one.

The ball valve is 1". Below the ball valve, the diameter goes from 1" to 2", then to a 2"x3"x3" tee with cleanout adapters on both sides and cleanout plugs screwed into the adapters.

I welcome any questions, comments, suggestions, criticism, etc.

Click to expand...

I like the yeast catcher my main reason for creating a catcher at the bottom was to catch all the junk that collects at the bottom of a fermenter after fermentation and secondary!! The more junk that stays out of the fermenter gives you more beer in the end, at least what I believe! My process is:
1) attach catcher to bottom of ballvalve with ballvalve open!
2) poor cooled wort into fermenter and add yeast
3) after 5-7 days or after fermentation is done close ballvalve and remove catcher. Harvest what u want if you like. Clean and sanitize and reattach catcher for the secondary fermentation process!
4) during secondary fermentation some more junk will collect in catcher!
5) keg or bottle your beer

Your design looks great, easy to clean!
I'd get a nipple that goes from bottom of fermenter to ballvalve! idea is good!
Enjoy the new fermenter

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

30 Gallon w/2 Qt catcher

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Well... I think I figured out what is going on my christmas list...

this guy

With the free shipping factored in it's a pretty sweet deal all in all. I'm not thrilled that it has to come with the legs rather than building a stand with some scrap wood, but I do like the 35 gallons compared to just 30. With any luck I should be able to brew double batches (once my new single tier is finished) and have 1bbl in there fermenting or really close to it. I'll probably have to add a 1-2 qt catcher at the bottom which will add a bit more volume to it but hopefully it will work right.

It's either this, or fermenting in spare sanke kegs, but I'm leaning this way now.

Mrott said:

Well... I think I figured out what is going on my christmas list...

this guy

With the free shipping factored in it's a pretty sweet deal all in all. I'm not thrilled that it has to come with the legs rather than building a stand with some scrap wood, but I do like the 35 gallons compared to just 30. With any luck I should be able to brew double batches (once my new single tier is finished) and have 1bbl in there fermenting or really close to it. I'll probably have to add a 1-2 qt catcher at the bottom which will add a bit more volume to it but hopefully it will work right.

It's either this, or fermenting in spare sanke kegs, but I'm leaning this way now.

Click to expand...

I'm looking at getting two of those too. I like the legs and figure I'll just make a cart to put them on.

Mrott said:

Well... I think I figured out what is going on my christmas list...

this guy

With the free shipping factored in it's a pretty sweet deal all in all. I'm not thrilled that it has to come with the legs rather than building a stand with some scrap wood, but I do like the 35 gallons compared to just 30. With any luck I should be able to brew double batches (once my new single tier is finished) and have 1bbl in there fermenting or really close to it. I'll probably have to add a 1-2 qt catcher at the bottom which will add a bit more volume to it but hopefully it will work right.

It's either this, or fermenting in spare sanke kegs, but I'm leaning this way now.

Click to expand...

WHAT FREE SHIPPING???? I just ordered another 15 gallon full drain tank for $62 shipped!

acefaser said:

WHAT FREE SHIPPING???? I just ordered another 15 gallon full drain tank for $62 shipped!

Click to expand...

:cross: here ya go.

FSR402 said:

I'm looking at getting two of those too. I like the legs and figure I'll just make a cart to put them on.

Click to expand...

I baught mine with the legs, they have holes in the feet so you can either bolt them down to something or put casters on. I was thinking of casters but not sure if it would be too unstable being that there are only 3 legs. what you think of using casters?

allclene said:

I baught mine with the legs, they have holes in the feet so you can either bolt them down to something or put casters on. I was thinking of casters but not sure if it would be too unstable being that there are only 3 legs. what you think of using casters?

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3 legs? All the pics I have seen of these show 4.

EarthBound said:

1) I plan to fill it after it's moved into the ferm chamber and drain it while it's in there, as well; so, it won't be moved around much while it's full. Maybe I should weld some handles near the top of the stand.
2)Yep!
3) I agree with you - all you need is a quart jar. However, after reading all of spottedog's posts in both this thread and his thread, I decided to emulate his technique. Building and implementing this yeast catcher is, as you say, Easy Peasy... and it's an interesting concept that is worth trying, IMO. If I don't like it, maybe I can turn it into a bong or a planter or something...

I guess I should've mentioned those first two things already. Cheers!

Here ya go.

I'll be sealing it like that guy... silicone for the ring and weatherstripping to seal the lid. I plan to add a bulkhead fitting on top, as well, for not just blowoff and CO2 but also for filling it with wort. This way I won't move it when it's full.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link im gonna try to seal the black ring with a standard rubber gasket from auto parts. You can get the make your own gasket material in sheets and cut it out to fit. Plan on using same rubber material to make gasket for lid. I decided to use a fitting like his on the top except im going to put a valve on it also so i can close it off in advance and let some pressure build to blow out the yeast from bottom without adding outside influences to it during the furmenting. Good idea about the wort if you have a place for displaced air to go so you dont build up excess pressure.