How on earth do some of you go grain to grass in 2 weeks?

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petep1980

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Anytime I try a beer that early not only is there zero chance it's carbed to where I like, but it ALWAYS still has that grainy flavor to it. I can't break 4 weeks minimum.
 
It depends on the beer. If you have a keg setup a Weizen can probably be done in less then two weeks. I don't see how a Porter or other heavy beer could really be done that fast though.
 
I did a Summer Wheat, one week in primary and one week in the bottle and it tasted great.
 
Actually, I agree with the wheat beer -- I've had IPA's drinkable quickly, but never 2 weeks.
 
low gravity is key here nothing over like 1.040. a low gravity dry stout works great but you will have to brew another batch soon because they will be gone fast.
 
For me, even a wheat needs more than two weeks.

I mean, it is drinkable in a couple of weeks, but gets SOOOOO much better after a couple of weeks in the keg.
 
I prefer American IPAs and other hoppy styles as young as possible, while the fruity yeast esters will still complement the flavor hops. 2 weeks sounds perfect for a low gravity IPA or highly hopped pale ale.
 
The simple answer is that I don't. The only way I can imagine drinking anything younger than 3+ weeks is pitch 3x as much yeast as normal and then filter and force carb. No thanks.
 
I can never get grass to grow in two weeks just like my beers it takes a minimum of 3 weeks 2 weeks in primary and 1 in the keg to carb and thats for a wheat beer others are more like 6 before I even taste them
 
It really depends on the ingredients. For example, we did the 10der and mild swap (10 days from brewday to ship to the recipient) and the beers were really good! A mild, though, is good young. It's better with some age, but it's really good young, too. That's because of the ingredients! Having no roasty flavors that must mellow, not too hoppy, and a low OG, all contribute to early drinkability.
 
I'd just soon buy Sierra Nevada Pale Ale than drink green homebrew.

To me, it's a waste of effort to go through all the work and then not have the patience to wait for it to properly mature.
 
I think drinking green homebrew is a waste as well. Even if you force carb via shaking at high pressure. The carbonic acid takes around three weeks to break down and your beer will not taste its best. Every beer deserves to be served at its best, wait the three weeks and be happy about it.

The fastest I go grain to glass is 5 weeks. 2 weeks primary and 3 in the keg.
 
To me, it's a waste of effort to go through all the work and then not have the patience to wait for it to properly mature.

But it depends entirely on the style and the recipe. I'm racking my Mild two weeks from pitching, drinking a day later. A lightly carbonated ale with no carbonic bite that always occupies a tap here.

The only beers that I would consider serving this early from my repetoire are my Hefe, Witbier and the aforementioned Mild.

YMMV.
 
But it depends entirely on the style and the recipe. I'm racking my Mild two weeks from pitching, drinking a day later. A lightly carbonated ale with no carbonic bite that always occupies a tap here.

The only beers that I would consider serving this early from my repetoire are my Hefe, Witbier and the aforementioned Mild.

YMMV.

OK, you got me...then again I don't brew milds. :mug:

It's good to know though.
 
I just brewed up a batch of the "Cream of Three Crops" and a Witbier. 2 weeks from grain to glass essentially. Force carbing in the keg really is the only way this is possible. Bottling takes at least 3 weeks to carb up. With the cream ale, I used gelatin as the recipe stated to help clear the beer quicker than it would normally. Everything tasted great. I would have to say that the Witbier may need a little while longer in order for the yeasty tastes to somewhat subside.
 
I made a hefeweizen for the Stanley Cup Finals. My cuz and I killed it in two games.

Grain to drain in two weeks.
 
The only way I'd go grain to glass in under 3 weeks is by kegging. Force carbonation takes 2-3 days until drinkable IMHO. So that gives you a 2.5 week primary which is plenty for wheats, wits, or anything or "normal" gravity and using a very flocculent strain of yeast. 1056, US05, US04, Nottingham are my favorites for quick turnaround. They just ferment like crazy, and fermentation is complete in about 5 days if not before. You won't end up with a SUPER clear beer like you would with one in there for 4-6 weeks, but you will have beer! :rockin:

Wheat beers are definitely the easiest since they are cloudy and meant to be consumed young. I've literally kegged a wheat 1 week after I pitched the yeast. :D
 
I did BM Centennial Blonde on June 19th and had it on tap for 4th of July festivities. This is the fastest I have ever done a beer. It was very good. I do not see myself forcing beers this fast though. I like to let my beers age out and bulk condition. Other than a wheat beer or some very low gravity one I will not do it again.
 
I'd rather wait for better taste.

Although while reading about Kentucky Commons, I read that they were kegged/barrel shortly before they were finished fermenting, and tapped after a couple days. It was meant to be a cheap, quick turnaround beer.
 
OG of 1040 or lower.
IBU’s low 20’s (or lower).
Hard, rolling boil.
Rapid chill.
Proper aeration.
Pitch on top of a yeast cake.
10 days primary.
3 days clearing tank on gelatin.
Keg and chill at 30 PSI for 48 hours.

Micros do it all the time.
 
Run your fermenter at 5 psi above atmospheric. About five points from finished take the spunding valve (see wiki) off the fermenter and let it run up to 25psi or whatever. Crash cool, rack, tap, serve.

No temp controller required. No water bath. No fermentation chiller. No thermometer. Just $100 worth of junk from McMaster Carr and a spare Cornelius to use as a fermenter.
 
I tried a quick turn-around on a raspberry wheat. It was extract, low IBU and low gravity. The only problem was the lack of carb. Will need longer in bottles.
 
It all depends on what YOU like in your beers. I love an IPA at 2-3 weeks as much as one at 6-8 weeks. The tastes are not the same, so they are good for different reasons. An aged IPA is smooth and blended but does not have quite the same hop freshness, IMHO, that a young one does. That may be what others perceive as "green", I'm not sure, but I like it.:)
 
I just brewed up a batch of the "Cream of Three Crops" and a Witbier. 2 weeks from grain to glass essentially. Force carbing in the keg really is the only way this is possible. Bottling takes at least 3 weeks to carb up. With the cream ale, I used gelatin as the recipe stated to help clear the beer quicker than it would normally. Everything tasted great. I would have to say that the Witbier may need a little while longer in order for the yeasty tastes to somewhat subside.

Bottle carbing also varies based on the style/yeast.

My kristalweizen was fermented out completely after 6 days and took only 9 days to fully bottle-carb the first time I made it. Bottle carbing varies on this one, but it's never been over 2 weeks. Other beers I've made take 6+ weeks to bottle carb.

Most wheats are best drunk young, too, IMO.
 
I made an oatmeal stout that was good right out of the ball valve on my fermenter. Rack, chill, let sit a week and force carb. It was really good then. 3 weeks later its awesome and has not changed since.

I made a boddingtons clone. 1.040 gravity, 35 Ibus Fwh, flavor and aroma hops. Its been in the fermenter 4 days. Tastes great NOW. Gonna keg in a week and serve in 2. (total 4 weeks).

I also made an ESB that tastes like crap 5 weeks ago (OG 1.057). Its slowly getting better.

David :)
 
Run your fermenter at 5 psi above atmospheric. About five points from finished take the spunding valve (see wiki) off the fermenter and let it run up to 25psi or whatever. Crash cool, rack, tap, serve.

No temp controller required. No water bath. No fermentation chiller. No thermometer. Just $100 worth of junk from McMaster Carr and a spare Cornelius to use as a fermenter.

Poindexter , Where in the wiki specifically,:cross: I'mLost:drunk::(
 
Run your fermenter at 5 psi above atmospheric. About five points from finished take the spunding valve (see wiki) off the fermenter and let it run up to 25psi or whatever. Crash cool, rack, tap, serve.
No temp controller required. No water bath. No fermentation chiller. No thermometer. Just $100 worth of junk from McMaster Carr and a spare Cornelius to use as a fermenter.

you still need to control fermentation temps . Whether its under pressure or not off flavors will still be produced
 
Shay, have you tried this method?

arturo if you want info ask Wortmonger he is very helpful and its his article in the wikki . I haven't attempted this but he helped me with non pressurized fermenting and transferring beer with C02 from a keg so it never touches the air
 
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