Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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I have read a number of the threads and in addition to the Irish Red.... It is getting warmer. I ferment in my basement and temp control is a concern. It may be as warm as low 70's which could lead to off flavors. Again, I haven't ruled it out. Just keeping an open mind. Thx again
 
I've never used 060, but I can say from experience that with notty you can be drinking this in two weeks.
 
Yeah. Starting to lean that way

Set up a swamp cooler to control the temp. You will only have to deal with it for a few days until fermentation is complete. After that you can just leave it on the garage floor until you are ready to keg it
 
Ok. Thx for the quick response. Not 100% on the 060. I just want to try it and this seems like a nice place for it. I will post as I go along. And I still want feedback. Btw was that 10 days all primary? Then just kegged? Man that seems fast

In the winter I brewed this last minute for a New Year's party. If my memory serves me correctly I think it was 16 days grain to glass. Primary for 12 days, cold crashed for a day, kegged at 20 PSI for two days, then served at 10 PSI. I would have to double check my notes, but I think that's what I did.

In a party of almost entirely Miller Lite drinkers this was a huge hit and the 5-gallon corny was gone in about 90 minutes!

Long story short, you'll be fine. I just recommend Whirlfloc and the Notty to get it cleaned up on the double.
 
In the winter I brewed this last minute for a New Year's party. If my memory serves me correctly I think it was 16 days grain to glass. Primary for 12 days, cold crashed for a day, kegged at 20 PSI for two days, then served at 10 PSI. I would have to double check my notes, but I think that's what I did.

In a party of almost entirely Miller Lite drinkers this was a huge hit and the 5-gallon corny was gone in about 90 minutes!

Long story short, you'll be fine. I just recommend Whirlfloc and the Notty to get it cleaned up on the double.

Yeah if u can check your notes I would appreciate it. My home brew shop only has Notty by safale. I know the carry all sorts of white labs. WL Notty is seasonal. What about WL 002? And regardless what I choose I was not planning on a starter. If I go safale Notty or even 002 do I starter first or (rehydrate) just pitch? Thx again
 
I always make a starter. Is it absolutely necessary? No. But when you're up against a deadline of grain to glass in 21 days, I think it's in your best interest.
 
Yeah if u can check your notes I would appreciate it. My home brew shop only has Notty by safale. I know the carry all sorts of white labs. WL Notty is seasonal. What about WL 002? And regardless what I choose I was not planning on a starter. If I go safale Notty or even 002 do I starter first or (rehydrate) just pitch? Thx again

I am fairly certain it is pretty much universally advised to NOT make a starter when using dry yeast. Just rehydrate and pitch. For a bigger beer you would just pitch an additional packet, but you would be fine with just one for the ~ 1.040 OG of this beer.

I have only used Danstar Notty, but I have used Safale S-05 for other beers and got great results. I think 1 packet of Safale Notty will get you where you need to be. I wouldn't personally do the WL02, but if you were I would suggest a starter.

I left my notebook at my parents' house, but I am going there tomorrow and will try to remember to grab it and check.
 
Really? I'm curious why. I feel like I've read it's not necessary because of higher cell counts (If memory serves) but I've always done it out of habit (I generally use Wyeast) without issues. Is this simply an issue of necessity, or am I creating more opportunities for problems to occur when making a starter with dry yeast?
 
Ok, ok. So I am in, but nervous. I have to have a third keg of beer ready for drinking for the-last-day-of-the-school-year party being held on May 30, 2014. The absolute earliest I can brew is Friday, May 9….. That is 21 days from grain to glass. I have read the threads and everyone said it can be done…. Doesn’t it taste green? I mean even a little??

So I ask all that have preceded: Can this be done? The audience is about 20 percent craft beer drinkers, 80 percent BMC. I want something light like a lager.

I would want to follow the original recipe, but I want to change the yeast. I already have an Irish Red which fermented with Notty, and I want to add variety. My other beer is an American IPA, hopped up and bitter. So I need something on the other end of the spectrum. This recipe looks to be it. The yeast I want to use is WL060 the California Blend…. It’s supposed to have a “lager like” finish. Has anyone used this yeast for anything? Can I use it with this recipe? Will it finish quick enough? I figure 4-5 days in the primary, and another 6-7 days in the secondary, then, in the keg it goes, to be forced carbed and cold crashed – at the same time. My plan was to set the psi at about 30 for 24 hours, purge, then lower it to 12. Any thoughts on this idea? I don’t want too much foam, or too little carb.
Can it be done? I have never used this yeast before and would love some feedback. I did not plan on using a starter. I would hate to serve the beer if its green….. oh the dilemmas!

I've brewed this recipe a few times and I can say that 21 days is easily doable without even rushing things. For a quick turnaround, I would recommend going with S04. Pitch as close to 60F as you can for a lager-like taste. Below 60 and it'll be a sluggish fermentation. Fermentation should be done 7 - 10 days but leave it for another couple of days to let the yeast clean itself up. No need for a secondary. If you can, cold-crash your primary for a day or two then keg. Use gelatin when kegging. 1 week in keg at 12psi and your beer will be clear and tasty in 21 days. If you don't want to use gelatin, then you can go from primary to keg a couple of days sooner and give the beer more time on the gas.

I haven't used WL060 but I believe that strain contains both ale and lager yeast. I would presume that it may take longer to ferment than your timeline allows.
 
Re-hydrate dry Notty (or S05), ferment at about 65-67 degrees and you will be done easily in 21 days.

It is a simple beer. Use a clean yeast and let the hops shine.

Don't over think it.
 
Really? I'm curious why. I feel like I've read it's not necessary because of higher cell counts (If memory serves) but I've always done it out of habit (I generally use Wyeast) without issues. Is this simply an issue of necessity, or am I creating more opportunities for problems to occur when making a starter with dry yeast?

You are correct. its just easier and less work to rehydrate and pitch. also since its so cheap you could just use 2 packs and still be cheaper than liquid yeast. go ahead and use a starter if you want but its really unnecessary.
 
Don't over think it.

Ya' know... this about says it all. From everything I have read, this is a user friendly recipe. I have a tendency to over think it, so I am just going to brew beer. The LHBS didn’t have Notty anyway, so I went with San Diego Super, WL090. I read on this thread that someone used it and it worked good for them.
I still plan on posting updates. All ingredients purchased, and brew day is on the horizon. Is it me, or is brew day better on a weekday when everyone else is working?
 
Yeah if u can check your notes I would appreciate it. My home brew shop only has Notty by safale. I know the carry all sorts of white labs. WL Notty is seasonal. What about WL 002? And regardless what I choose I was not planning on a starter. If I go safale Notty or even 002 do I starter first or (rehydrate) just pitch? Thx again


I checked my notes. It was in primary for twelve days then kegged. I didn't mention it but I think I crashed it on day ten. Spent two days at 20 PSI and 34*, then lowered the PSI to ten. Served on day 17 and it was a big hit. Hope that helps!



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Made 10 gallons a couple weeks ago. Effeciency on the new brew system was up to 80% so it came out to more than 5%.

Just kegged 5 gallons fermented with S05, I added 10g of cascade in a tea ball for fun.
The other 5 gallons is being dry-hopped with a 1:1 blend of 40g of centennial and cascade.

Nothing fancy, just adding a little hop aroma and flavour to an already fan-favourite beer.
 
FOr those of you bottle conditioning this.....what is the time to condition typically you have found. I normally go 3 weeks.....but I am hoping this might carb in 2 weeks....
 
Just checked my FG and its definitely finished.

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Also taste pretty good. will cold crash soon and keg.
 
Well thanks for your help. I'm going to start looking for something to ferment in. Once I have that together I will send you a copy of my recipe with instructions if you don't mind - just to look over to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Thanks

Well fermenting chamber up and running. I brewed this recipe yesterday using a partial mash method. My OG was low 1.034 my first partial mash hopefully I will get better. I made a yeast starter and it was bubbling @ 4 per minute last night before I pitched the yeast. I pitched the yeast around 11:00 last night and it is now 9:00 am and no bubbles. Do I have a problem or is this normal. My fermenter is @ 68F.
 
Just kegged a 5 gal batch. Used 05 and went from 1.046 to 1.010. I had also added a pint of italain lemoncella to the primary after fermentation had slowed. It kicked it back into high gear for another day or so. Nice lemon flavor.
 
Well fermenting chamber up and running. I brewed this recipe yesterday using a partial mash method. My OG was low 1.034 my first partial mash hopefully I will get better. I made a yeast starter and it was bubbling @ 4 per minute last night before I pitched the yeast. I pitched the yeast around 11:00 last night and it is now 9:00 am and no bubbles. Do I have a problem or is this normal. My fermenter is @ 68F.

Do you see any krausen forming? at that point i dont see any activity in the air lock but i will see krausen forming, usually looks like little bit of spit sitting at the top of the wort before it takes off.

You are most likely fine. I fermented mine at 64 for the first 7 days. its sitting at 68 now for a couple days before i cold crash.
 
Do you see any krausen forming? at that point i dont see any activity in the air lock but i will see krausen forming, usually looks like little bit of spit sitting at the top of the wort before it takes off.

You are most likely fine. I fermented mine at 64 for the first 7 days. its sitting at 68 now for a couple days before i cold crash.

Thanks for the reply - I guess I'm a little impatient it is bubbling just fine now. What do you mean when you say cold crash? My plan is to keep it at 68 for 5 days then transfer to secondary for 4 days then keg it and force carbonate at room temperature for 3 days. Will this work or do I need to change my plan?
 
Thanks for the reply - I guess I'm a little impatient it is bubbling just fine now. What do you mean when you say cold crash? My plan is to keep it at 68 for 5 days then transfer to secondary for 4 days then keg it and force carbonate at room temperature for 3 days. Will this work or do I need to change my plan?

Cold crash to get the yeast out of suspension and clear the beer and then keg it. bring it down to about 35 for a few days. will prob add gelatin to the keg to clear it even more.

Id just leave it in the primary the whole time then keg it. no need for secondary.
 
Just made this 2 weeks ago. Went 2 weeks from boil to kegged and carbed. I needed a quick beer to fill a tap handle on the kegerator for a house party ysterday.

My numbers actually came in low, but added a little sugar and honey I had in my house, with a little DME. Not exactly what I wanted to do, but it came in at about 4%.

This is an amazing beer and recipe. Color is perfect, flavor is great, and its a super refreshing summer quencher. Everyone that had it at the party yesterday LOVED it!!

I used the recipe, but used Cascade and Falconers Flight for the later additions. It worked perfectly with a strong citrus flavor coming through. Highly recommend this recipe!
 
Cold crash to get the yeast out of suspension and clear the beer and then keg it. bring it down to about 35 for a few days. will prob add gelatin to the keg to clear it even more.

Id just leave it in the primary the whole time then keg it. no need for secondary.

So just leave it in primary 7 - 9 days at 68 then drop to 35 for 2 -3 days then keg? Will it be ok to carb outside of my keezer at 75 after the 35 cold crash since that is where my extra line is for force carbing?
 
So just leave it in primary 7 - 9 days at 68 then drop to 35 for 2 -3 days then keg? Will it be ok to carb outside of my keezer at 75 after the 35 cold crash since that is where my extra line is for force carbing?

Yup, that would work just fine.
 
Yup, that would work just fine.



I have done some reading on cold crashing. What do I need to do to keep from vacuuming water out of my air lock into my beer? The post I went to had to many conflicting opinions.

Thanks for your help,

David
 
I have done some reading on cold crashing. What do I need to do to keep from vacuuming water out of my air lock into my beer? The post I went to had to many conflicting opinions.

Thanks for your help,

David

i take the airlock off and cover with sanitized foil. the little o2 that gets in isnt a big deal. co2 is heavier and will be on top of the beer.
 
i take the airlock off and cover with sanitized foil. the little o2 that gets in isnt a big deal. co2 is heavier and will be on top of the beer.

I ferment in a bottling bucket so the foil cover won't work. Do you think a air lock made like a water pipe would work? I have access to parts and tools to fabricate anything. Maybe put star San in the chamber, so whatever is pulled in from the outside is filter through star San.
 
If you're fermenting in a bucket just put a sanitized lid on that hasn't been drilled.

Now that sounds like the simplest solution. Thanks for the idea. I will do that this time. I might still make the other contraption to see if it works. I think it would work for a blow off and when cold crashing. Guess I have taken this thread off topic long enough thanks for all the help
 
Just leave the water out of the airlock. Really it only serves to keep insects out, and the plastic parts can do that just fine. Pulling the lid off is going to remove most of the CO2 layer so I wouldn't do that.


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It doesn't work like that. If it did, we'd all be dead.

Well it does work like that when the air first gets into the carboy. Yes, the air will eventually get all mixed in with the co2 but it would still be mostly co2 and would take a long time to oxidize the beer and isn't going to happen the 2-3 days of cold crashing.
 
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