Weldless Triclover Element?

With stainless wire and the right gas mix (tri-mix or 100% co2 or a couple others depending on a few factors) you can weld stainless with a mig. Might get a lot of warping and possibly even a leaky weld if you don't know what you're doing or have the right set up for the steel. Even if you know what you're doing you'd have to clamp the hell out of the spud to keep the metal from warping.

After much resistance, I finally got some TC enclosures with a 2" TC flange as shown here:



We are not planning to release the solder on flange in 2" TC but enough people convinced me that they already have 2" flanges on their vessels.

Hey Bobby quick ? Everyone seems to be installing the tc fittings on thinner ss pots will these work on keggle or would the gap be too large to fill.

Thanks Paul

The solder bungs are machined for a 16" diameter pot. That's pretty much perfect for a keggle. I'll be doing mine on my keggle this week!

The only other variable in a keg is that the wall also curves towards the bottom but this can be managed. Just slide the flange around and watch for an increasing gap as you get lower towards the skirt weld. Clamp as shown in the video to reduce the largest gaps before soldering.

Sounds good thank you. KP if ya get a chance post a pic once your done.

Will do. Right now it's just a pile of parts mocking me. . .

Bobby_M et al,
I watched the video. It is likely that I will simply get the weldless fitting for my 7.5 gallon SS kettle. There's a coolness factor to having a TC fitting - and, most of all, having soldered it myself. Perhaps, when I get my 15 gallon kettle, I could try soldering on the cheap kettle first.

You mentioned using MAP gas in your video. I looked at Home Depot online and found the following items. Is this what I would need to get (apart from the solder + flux kit)?

Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit with MAP-Pro Fuel for $49.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS8000KC-Premium-Torch-Kit-331044/203371801#

Or for about half the price, get the following 2 items separately.

Bernzomatic WT2301 Self Igniting Basic Torch Head for $13.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WT2301-Self-Igniting-Basic-Torch-Head-334496/202539575#

Bernzomatic 14.1oz Map-Pro Cylinder for $9.35
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Cylinder-332477/203226566#

I think you had mentioned that the Map gas was not as hot as the propane - I don't remember exactly what you said. What concerned me was that the torch in the kit said "high intensity".

Thanks,
Keith

Map is definitely hotter than propane. For your first rodeo, I suggest using propane as it will just take a little longer to get everything hot. You don't need the $49 kit, just get the WT2301 and a blue propane bottle. Here's the bad news.. I'm out of stock on the solder ferrules. I feel terrible to say that given your tough decision to try soldering. They will be back in stock Jan 10th.

I am having problems with the triclover part breaking off the can, one broke so bobby sent me a couple new ones but I broke a second. Tried silver soldering one back together but that didn't go so well. I also have one cap that is stripped and won't hold on the can, I don't seem to have luck with these sadly.


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Sadly, I have had the same experience with mine.
On the bright side, I was able to use regular lead/tin solder and acid flux to beef up the spot weld attachment points.

My contingency plan for the stripped threads on the can is to drill two or three small holes and secure the cap with a sheet metal screws. I grind off the sharp ends to keep from piercing any insulation inside.

Idea on these are great but for the money they should t have issues like this.


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The one pictured there is an older version that absolutely did have weld quality issues. I can tell because the welds are short, more like tack welds. The replacement ones or any of them that were purchased in the last few months have much more robust welds. ll. The new ones have five or six welds that are 1/4 and some are nearly 3/8" long. The issues with fit between the cap and canister are being watched more closely as they go out but one issue we've had is end users mixing and matching. We test the mated pairs but can't guarantee that all caps will fit all canisters so keep them mated pairs together.

I don't have any expectation that customers should have to fix any issues on their own. I support the products 100% at my cost. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have problems.

And that is why I buy stuff from Bobby. . . Thanks dude.

+1
Bobby stands behind his merchandise.
Thanks!

Yes you were very quick to send me replacements that's for sure, the new ones you sent did have more and larger welds, the second one that broke was a new one though sadly. I do have two that are not broken yet, I'll try soldering those ones before I use them.


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Ok those ones seemed to have soldered up nice, I'll give them a go.


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Will it work ok on my 17.75" diameter AIH 2 Weld 19 gallon SS Brew Pot? or would it be best to run it on my keggle? Going to be doing one up on the keggle and/or 9 gallon pot. I plan on using it with an element for electric. Any quick tips for success?

Here's a video. The radius is for a 16" diameter but it should work on your your pot.

http://youtu.be/_NkHlDql8EU

KPSquared said:

Here's a video. The radius is for a 16" diameter but it should work on your your pot.

http://youtu.be/_NkHlDql8EU

Click to expand...

Ya watched it a couple times, looks simple enough. I've done some brazing and soldering copper in the past. Wasn't sure there were a few tricks that people found after they did it.

Don't overdo the solder. Heat evenly. Make sure it's clean. Don't be afraid of the flux. It's a pretty basic task.

Think of your kettle as a giant heat sink. So make sure you get it hot before you start concentrating on the fitting. It will take longer to do that than you think, but very important for a nice fillet and to keep from scorching the liquid flux too fast.

Anybody put a PowerCON or similar connector on one of Bobby's enclosures? I was thinking of using one for a 120V 2000w element in the weldless model. I know Bobby did a while back just interested if someone has tried it recently.

Bobby,

I apologize if this has been answered elsewhere, but when do you expect to have the 2" solder kits back in stock?

Thanks.

You mean the enclosures with the 2" TC flange welded on? Tomorrow or the next day.

The kit with the radiused solder on 2" TC fitting.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2etc4s.htm

I have them in stock now. The bigger question is why not go with the 1.5" if you're going to solder something on anyway? There is no advantage to going with the 2" version as the 1.5" works for all applications that I'm aware of.

Really the only reason for the 2" ETC is for pots that already have a 2" flange.

I was just thinking that if 2" was available for essentially the same price that it would be easier to maneuver wavy elements in and out. The only downside I see is that the element would be 1/4 inch higher, all else equal.

Also, i was considering a 2" rims tube, so hardware interchangeability would be nice. However now I am leaning towards your 1.5" rims tube, so perhaps ill go with 1.5" instead.

There's no issues moving the wavy element through the 1.5"... So that reason is a non starter. But...if you went 2" rims and element, you have sanke compatible hardware as well...so there's that.

Good to know that there's no issue with wavy elements in the 1.5 inch TC.

My system actually uses inverted kegs with the bottom cut out and center drains utilizing the sankey connection.

flatulentfox said:

Good to know that there's no issue with wavy elements in the 1.5 inch TC.

My system actually uses inverted kegs with the bottom cut out and center drains utilizing the sankey connection.

Click to expand...

No issues using Bobby M's 1.5 tc fittings but from what another member was saying a couple days ago in one of the recent scorching threads below. He cant use a ripple element because it wont fit through his welded on 1.5 tc fitting...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/scorched-element-510514/index2.html

KPSquared said:

There's no issues moving the wavy element through the 1.5"... So that reason is a non starter. But...if you went 2" rims and element, you have sanke compatible hardware as well...so there's that.

Click to expand...

I've got a 2" ferrule welded on my keggles and it was still tight getting the ripple element through them.

I don't doubt that it can be done with the 1.5", but 2" would certainly be easier.

Hmm... Mine slides in and out with no problem. Maybe I'm just better at it... It takes practice. Don't expect perfection your first time.

Before clean up... pretty cold outside so my hands jumped a bit but it worked out fine just will need a little extra TLC. The product is GREAT, I'd love to add 1 more for a thermometer (maybe a slightglass with tee too?). BTW, the solder in the kit is super super easy to melt compared to the video Bobby has, I barely had to put my torch on there before it started to flow well.

How are people getting that burnt flux off? It's quite the pain... I've had it soaking in hot hot water and scrubbed but just not giving.

Stainless wire wheel. Just make sure it's stainless or it'll rust your kettle.

Also helps to wipe what you can of while it's still hot with a damp rag. Probably a little late for that...

KPSquared said:

Also helps to wipe what you can of while it's still hot with a damp rag. Probably a little late for that...

Click to expand...

Ya I did a little but didn't want to disturb the fitting. I'll try a wheel, anyone know if the stainless HF wheels are really stainless:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-stainless-steel-wheel-and-brush-set-66129.html

theck said:

BTW, the solder in the kit is super super easy to melt compared to the video Bobby has, I barely had to put my torch on there before it started to flow well.

Click to expand...

I don't remember exactly how long I put the flame on, but I do spend some time warming the surrounding areas of the pot so that it doesn't sink the heat too quickly leaving a cold joint. When I know I've done it right, I can remove the flame and easily feed solder into the joint for a good minute or so. If you put the flame directly on the flange, you can flow faster but you'll have to keep bringing the flame back in every 10 seconds.

Either way, if the joint is good, it's good. I just wanted to explain my reason for taking some time.

Cleaning up.. spirits on a rag for the goopy stuff, then some barkeepers friend. Finish with sewn cloth polishing wheel on a grinder or felt wheel on a dremel with appropriate polish compound for a "back to factory" finish on the pot.

Bobby_M said:

I don't remember exactly how long I put the flame on, but I do spend some time warming the surrounding areas of the pot so that it doesn't sink the heat too quickly leaving a cold joint. When I know I've done it right, I can remove the flame and easily feed solder into the joint for a good minute or so. If you put the flame directly on the flange, you can flow faster but you'll have to keep bringing the flame back in every 10 seconds.

Either way, if the joint is good, it's good. I just wanted to explain my reason for taking some time.

Cleaning up.. spirits on a rag for the goopy stuff, then some barkeepers friend. Finish with sewn cloth polishing wheel on a grinder or felt wheel on a dremel with appropriate polish compound for a "back to factory" finish on the pot.

Click to expand...

Thanks, ya I spent some time warming up the pot a bit and then to the fitting on and off to the pot. Really not difficult at all and seems to hold really well. Waiting on a clamp so I can test it out though. I'll be adding a second at some point for sure. Thanks for a good product!