Mike_A
Well-Known Member
I've read the BG14 runs well on 20-30psi, and the BG12 runs well on 10-20psi. I'm planning on using 2 BG14's for HLT & BK but only need a BG12 for the MLT. I figure I'll use needle valves to control the flames, right? Shouldn't really have more than one burner on at a time, but I'd prefer not to have to adjust the regulator AND needle valves.
So can a BG12 and BG14 be connected to the same manifold (aka same pressure)? If so, what is a good pressure & orifice size balance for each?
Using http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/highp_chart.html as a reference, and I've read the BG12 is rated for 70kBTU and the BG14 is rated for ~210kBTU, if I use 20psi (where the recommended pressure ranges meet) I can use a #63 (0.038") drilled orifice to provide 72kBTU to the BG12, but the chart runs out way shy of 210kBTU. The chart *roughly* comes out as a function of orifice area for a given pressure. So if I double the orifice area from a #56, I should end up around 216kBTU?
A #52 drill (0.067") has 187% the area of a #56, so could give me around 1.87*108564 = 203kBTU. Accounting for errors in interpolating the chart data, I think that's plenty close to the 210kBTU rating that's possible with a wide open needle valve.
Drilling orifices is a lot easier for me than buying multiple regulators... but this is all just based on educated guesses. Anyone care to check in on the math, or even better, let me know if/how you've done it?
So can a BG12 and BG14 be connected to the same manifold (aka same pressure)? If so, what is a good pressure & orifice size balance for each?
Using http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/highp_chart.html as a reference, and I've read the BG12 is rated for 70kBTU and the BG14 is rated for ~210kBTU, if I use 20psi (where the recommended pressure ranges meet) I can use a #63 (0.038") drilled orifice to provide 72kBTU to the BG12, but the chart runs out way shy of 210kBTU. The chart *roughly* comes out as a function of orifice area for a given pressure. So if I double the orifice area from a #56, I should end up around 216kBTU?
A #52 drill (0.067") has 187% the area of a #56, so could give me around 1.87*108564 = 203kBTU. Accounting for errors in interpolating the chart data, I think that's plenty close to the 210kBTU rating that's possible with a wide open needle valve.
Drilling orifices is a lot easier for me than buying multiple regulators... but this is all just based on educated guesses. Anyone care to check in on the math, or even better, let me know if/how you've done it?