Yet Another eBIAB Build

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks. I had a problem when I was trying to auto tune. It sat at 204 degrees for over an hour, not sure what caused it. I turned everything off and will try again later. Just to confirm, you set your A-M setting set to 2, correct? I know Kal has different settings for different kettles, but with us all 3 are combined.
 
Use Kal's instructions for his HLT, as that is what controls his mash process. When you boil, you will use manual mode and the autotune is irrelevant.
 
jeff - thats what I figured. SoI followed Kal's instructions, but what I am wondering is since the HLT isn't A-M mode isn't needed for the HLT I think that's what may have given my PID a hiccup. It had A-M mode set to 0, but I was in Auto mode. Maybe I should set it back to 0, auto-tune, then set it back to A-M mode 2.
 
Set A-M to 0, since you want to be able to use both automatic and manual mode. You should never have to change it. Then run autotune. Kal recommends a setpoint of around 154 and starting autotune around 10 degrees below that. If that doesn't work, there is a problem somewhere.
 
Set A-M to 0, since you want to be able to use both automatic and manual mode. You should never have to change it. Then run autotune. Kal recommends a setpoint of around 154 and starting autotune around 10 degrees below that. If that doesn't work, there is a problem somewhere.

as a comment, i had set mine to 0 then autotuned. when done, i had to flip it back to 0. maybe i'm just special (my mommy said i was).
 
There is a problem somewhere then, as I followed those exact instructions. I will have to put a screen shot of my PID wiring up later to get some insight.
 
Chris, I see you have this conversation going in another thread, and Kal has been helping you. I'm happy to help, but I suggest that you confine it to one thread. Please follow Kal's instructions and post your results there, as that is the original thread you started on this. Thanks.
 
I am looking at switching to BIAB and am super intrigued by the idea of going electric. I've been doing all grain brews for about 4 years now and really like the idea of a simpler approach. I have 2 young kids and a 6 hr brew day is a major damper for the wife and kids. I love the idea of getting away from propane and the plastic in a cooler MLT. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming that a BIAB session should be about 3-4 hrs long at most? Are you finding this to be true? It looks like efficiency isn't an issue, that's for sure. So, less equipment needed (less to store in garage!), safer due to electric, less to clean up, and shorter brew time. That all seems compelling enough to me to switch to BIAB!

Now I just have to get an electric setup. I've looked quite a bit at the High Gravity eBIAB setup and it is very intriguing. From what I can gather, though, I can build that exact setup for quite a bit less cost. Can anyone substantiate this? I have a 15 gallon pot and a 15.5 gal keggle, a March pump, and a plate chiller so all I really need is the control panel and converting one of my pots to electric. The problem is I know absolutely nothing about electricity. I do have friends that know this stuff though so I'm planning on leaning on them for this project. I still plan on doing this in my garage because I have our breaker panel for our whole house out in the garage right next to where I usually brew anyway so I thought it would be simple to branch off a 240v outlet right there. Is this an accurate assumption? Done by an electrician, of course! I do really like the analog dial control of the heating element on the High Gravity setup as it makes sense to me to be able to just dial in exactly what you need. Anyone have electrical plans on that High Gravity panel? How much do you think it would cost for the control panel build and elements,etc?

Thanks! :mug:
 
I tried building a copy of the High Gravity control panel, just the basic one. It cost me a little over $125 in supplies. The element, connections and cord ran around another $80. Unfortunately, I also spent several hours researching plans online as well as several more ordering and buying all the needed parts. After an electrician friend of mine hooked up the 240 line for me I realized that I either wired the controller wrong, or shorted out the SSR due to mixing up two wires on the heating element. He checked out my controller and confirmed that everything was hooked up correctly. In the end, I spent the $250 on their controller. It works great! 64 degrees F. to 160 in 20 minutes, then another 25 minutes to a rolling boil! I couldn't get 5 gallons to a rolling boil in 45 minutes on my propane burner and this was 10 gallons. I wish I would have just ordered theirs in the first place. If I figure my parts and what my time is worth, I spent more than $250 on the one that I built. It sounds like you are a lot like me, go ahead and get the High Gravity controller. Bobby M. is working on a heat stick that hangs over the edge of your brew kettle so that you won't even need to drill a hole in your kettle. Someone else on this forum already makes one, but it looks very steampunk, almost like it was built from scrap from a scrap yard. I would trust Bobbys, I wouldn't trust the other one.
 
I haven't read too much into the high gravity setup, but it looks like just a PWM controller. It would work, but you would have to babysit it during the mash. I prefer the set and forget of a PID controller. The Auber PID has a manual mode which acts just like the high gravity setup for controlling the boil, so you get the best of both worlds.

Just the parts for a bare minimum PID controlled electric system would probably cost about $450. Below is rough parts list, I probably missed a couple of things, but it should at least give you an idea.

Auber
--------
Box - $27
PID Controller - $45
40A SSR - $19
RTD w/ Premium Cable - $43 (Spring for the Premium cable, my homemade cable is starting to give me problems.)
Illuminated Push Button - $13 (For Element power on off only, add 1 more if you want a main power button.)
40A Contactor - $19 (For element, add 1 more for main power switch.)

Ebay
-------
Main Power Inlet and Plug - $40 (Into the control panel)
Main Power Receptacle and Plug - $20 (From the Spa panel)
Fuses / Panel mount fuse connector - $10

Lowes / Home Depot
--------
Element Receptacle and Plug - $30
Element housing (single gang box) - $10
5500W Water Heater Element - $35
4/10 Cable - $3/ft (Main Power cable)
3/10 Cable - $3/ft (Element Power Cable)
Spa Panel - $65
Misc Hardware and Wire - $30 (Hardware probably needed from Bargain Fittings)
 
Voltin,

The High Gravity setup I'm considering is their EBC-SV. It has a PID so you can just set and forget. That's the one I'm looking at.
 
Hi there. Hate to zombify this thread after almost a year of no new posts, but I'm looking to build this box soon and was a little confused about the socket for the pump. I thought 120v sockets were the standard wall plug, not a "dryer" plug. Also, if I order a 120v Chugger pump, doesn't it come with a standard 3-prong wall plug? Do I need to replace the plug, buy an adapter, or order a 220v pump?

Thanks!
 
Hi there. Hate to zombify this thread after almost a year of no new posts, but I'm looking to build this box soon and was a little confused about the socket for the pump. I thought 120v sockets were the standard wall plug, not a "dryer" plug. Also, if I order a 120v Chugger pump, doesn't it come with a standard 3-prong wall plug? Do I need to replace the plug, buy an adapter, or order a 220v pump?

Thanks!

The outlet I used for the pump was not a "dryer" plug, it was a NEMA L5-15 plug and receptacle. By contrast a typical US household 120V is a NEMA 5-15 (no L). The difference is that the L5-15 is locking and the plug will hold in place, which is nice to have since the outlet is coming out of the bottom.

I did have to chop off the stock plug from the Chugger and wire in the L5-15 plug. I am not sure if this voids the warranty, but I had to send my first Chugger back after a couple of brews and they did not comment on the lack of plug.

You can use a regular 120V outlet and I am sure it would be fine, but I like the added protection of the locking connector.
 
Thanks, voltin! I think it does, technically, void the warranty, so the ability to use a standard wall plug makes me very happy! But if they didn't complain about the plug, that's pretty awesome too.

Other than the possibility of falling out, are there any safety concerns or code violations to worry about if I go that route?

And now that it's a couple years down the line, is your system still working well? Any complaints or changes you'd make?

Thanks again.
 
I can't speak to code but I can't think of any other safety concerns of using a non-locking connector.

The system is working well, but I am probably going to rewire it in the coming future. Some of my terminals were not crimped very well and some wires have come loose when I have transported the system. Also the wiring is quite messy, and I would like to redo it so that it isn't such a rat's nest. I also think I have a loose RTD wire, on my last brew day I was getting wild readings.

What I find to be the biggest flaw with this design is actually the placement of the RTD. I think the system would be more efficient and would hold temperatures better if I placed the RTD in a Tee at the output ball valve or inlet of the recirculation arm.
 
I really really like this build. I have a couple of questions for you though man. First off what size wire did you use to wire the control panel? I'm confident I will be able to wire this thing up but I don't know what gauge wire to use! secondly what did you think you have wrapped up into this build now?
 
voltin said:
2 Pole 40A 240V Coil Contactor(Meant to order 120V Coil)

Just noticed this in the parts list. So, for anyone looking to build this panel, should we get the 120v or the 240v contactor? Not entirely sure what that is, so I don't want to order the wrong part.
 
Just noticed this in the parts list. So, for anyone looking to build this panel, should we get the 120v or the 240v contactor? Not entirely sure what that is, so I don't want to order the wrong part.

If your panel is 120v only, then you will need the contactor with the 120v coil. If your contactor is 240v only, then you will need the contactor with the 240v coil. If your panel is both 120v and 240v, then you can use either, with a small advantage to the one with 120v coil because you can downsize the wiring to the coil (assuming you install the proper breaker or fuse to protect the smaller wiring).

The only difference on these is the voltage you need to supply to coil to switch the contactor closed and open.
 
So after a frustrating brew day a couple weeks back, I decided to completely overhaul my setup. I had been having problems with my RTD and with some wires coming loose, not to mention what looked like bad connections on the Hot lines which caused some melting of a plug. I decided the best course of action would be to completely rewire the control panel, remove and recondition all the plumbing, and move the RTD to a Tee at the inlet of the recirculation arm. Here are some pictures of the rewired panel. I will post pictures of the recirculating arm and some action shots from Big Brew Day early next week.

Before:
PC120583.JPG


After:
IMG_6887.jpg


I completely rewired the panel and made it neat and tidy. I also purchased a quality ratcheting crimping tool to make sure crimps all the wires were securely crimped so that no wires came loose. The wire stripper and crimper made life really easy and I would recommend that anybody building a panel invest in a nice set. The crimper cost me $25 and stripper $20. Everything is also securely fastened to the panel using zip ties so nothing should move during transport.

Before:
panel-power-dry-fits.jpg


After:
IMG_6883.jpg


As I had mentioned in my previous posts, I drilled the fuse holder and RTD connector holes a little too big and close to the curved corner of the box. The two fuse holders and RTD were never really secured in the box and would rotate freely. I decided to fill all three of the holes with JB PlasticWeld, relocate the fuses inside the box and move the RTD over a little bit. You can see the new RTD connector above and to the left of the pump outlet. I also replaced my RTD cable and bulkhead with the Deluxe cable kit from Auber. I much prefer the RTD's previous location, but now the connector is securely fastened and is solid which should make it easier to connect the RTD and put less strain on the wires.

I hope to do a water test today and I will be brewing this weekend, I will let you all know how it goes.
 
If I understand your question.....

The coil voltage is independant of the contact rating. Example: You can have a 12 VDC coil and 240 VAC, 30 amp contacts.

Which coil you select depends on your particlar design.

Thanks. I did some more reading. I think I can just connect one of the hot wires to the Auber Switch. I have the Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch, 2 NO, 22mm. 120/240V so it can take either 120V or 240V, and then connect one wire to the Contactor(so just 120V). Then I can connect a neutral to the switch and the conactor. One one side of the contactor I can have two hot wires(240V total) and the other side OUT will have two contactors. What do people use to draw the wiring diagrams? I think I will draw it up. Thanks!
 
Yes a drawing is most helpful.

If the drawing is not too complicated, MS Paint can work easily enough and you can save it directly to jpeg format to post up.
 
Here is a wiring pic I put together. The bottom half is the same (with the PID etc). I can add that later, but wanted to get thoughts on this bit.
View attachment 293002
 

Attachments

  • brewpanel_wiring.png
    brewpanel_wiring.png
    112 KB · Views: 347
Edited my post.

Sorry, I just picked up.that this is a lighted switch.

If the 120 VAC lamp inputs are X1 & X2 and 23 & 24 are a set of 120 VAC contacts, then your diagram should work fine.
 
Just saw this as well. Yes that will work as long as you get a contactor with 120VAC contacts (which the contactor you linked has.)
 
Just saw this as well. Yes that will work as long as you get a contactor with 120VAC contacts (which the contactor you linked has.)

Thanks voltin! I couldn't have done it without your thread. All works well. My first brew day with it didn't go so well do to other reasons, but it works! I put a thread here with my build:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=538782
 
Voltin - can you show a picture of the outside of your kettle of the heating element? Are you able to fit the basket in the kettle without it hitting the heating element? Finally getting around to doing my 44qt kettle and I'm concerned with not having enough spacing.
 
Homebrewtalk newbie here, hello all!


Voltin, thanks for sharing this post...I'll probably base my build off of your information here.

A question, you mentioned the below statement within your post...

You're right the wiring diagram is incorrect. The black wire from the main contactor should go to the input of the element contactor (and a bus bar), the output from the element contactor should go into the input on the SSR, the output the SSR should go to the element outlet.

One side of the coil should be connected to the element switch, which switches one of the hot legs from the inlet. The other side of the coil should be hooked up the neutral leg of the inlet.

Was the wiring diagram corrected?


Is the below wiring diagram correct and complete?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAkQ/bvZQbEgLUP4/s2048/wiring-diagram.jpg


Your control panel looks great after the re-wire too...nice job. Can you comment if you made any wiring changes?



Thanks again. I sometimes feel reluctant to resurrect old threads...but this is such a complete, helpful one, I thought question were best posted here than starting a new one.


Thanks!
Dan
 
Ok I just looked over all the pictures, my wiring diagram and previous comments and it looks like my wiring diagram and the first wiring job I did differ. The first wiring job had the black leg from the output of the main contactor go to the element contactor first and then the output of element contactor was routed to the input of the SSR. In my re-wire I followed the wiring diagram exactly and wired up the black leg from the main contactor to the input of the SSR and the output of the SSR was wired into the element contactor.

I believe both options are functionally equivalent. The benefit of wiring it according the wiring diagram was that I didn't have to run as much thicker wire around the panel since the main contactor and SSR are in close proximity to each other. I did not change the wiring in any other way. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for looking.
 
Voltin - can you show a picture of the outside of your kettle of the heating element? Are you able to fit the basket in the kettle without it hitting the heating element? Finally getting around to doing my 44qt kettle and I'm concerned with not having enough spacing.

I'm sure you have already figured it out, but I mounting the heating element just as Kal did (see: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements) I made sure to position it low enough so it doesn't interfer with the basket. Basically the bottom of the electrical box is just above the bottom of the kettle.
 
Back
Top