Take a Look at my Breaker Panel...

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ScubaSteve

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Here's some pics of my home's breaker panel. Looks like a 200A service panel with a 50A stove circuit and a 30A dryer circuit. I plan on using the dryer circuit in my laundry room, as it has a wash sink and my brewing room is also on that same floor...plus my rig is all rated for 30A anyway and I may not have a 50A service at my next house.

NOW...just to be sure....the panel DOES say GFCI on the bottom right, but it's only 20A (SWD????). Am I adequately protected with GFCI on the dryer outlet, or am I gonna need to buy a $$$ GFCI breaker for my rig's control panel?

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Just did some research...SWD means "switch duty"....the breaker is apparently able to switch more frequently without wear....as in, the GFCI gets frequently tripped and there is less chance of wearing the breaker out because of it? My concern is that it's only 20A....is it rated lower as a way to protect the wiring/homeowner; i.e. trip at a lower amperage so you don't get fried?
 
I'm no electrician, but that doesn't look like a GFCI breaker to me. I'd think it would have a "trip window" or some other feature to indicate that function. You might pull the front panel off and look for a part number.

It's 20A for a reason, likely wire gauge. You're stuck with that. I don't understand what Panel GFCI is indicating... hopefully someone can shed some light on that.

You probably need to replace your dryer breaker with a 30A GFCI breaker.
 
That breaker looks to me like it is feeding a GFCI outlet somewhere else. Do you have any other "panels" that the "Panel GFCI" name may refer to? ie. security panel, low voltage lighting panel, etc?
 
I would say that it is most likely feeding a GFCI somewhere. That breaker doesn't look like a GFCI.
 
Well...just got a 30A GFCI on Ebay for $52 shipped. Kicking myself now because I see 50A ones NEW for $50......oh well....I guess it's a good investment either way.
 
Well...just got a 30A GFCI on Ebay for $52 shipped. Kicking myself now because I see 50A ones NEW for $50......oh well....I guess it's a good investment either way.

Steve, you can't replace a 30A breaker with a 50A breaker. The breaker protects the wire, which in this case is only rated for 30A. (unless I'm missing something here)
 
I have the same thing in my panel. It feeds a gfci outlet near (or right below in my case) the breaker box.
 
Steve, you can't replace a 30A breaker with a 50A breaker. The breaker protects the wire, which in this case is only rated for 30A. (unless I'm missing something here)

No, you're right...I guess I was just making a price comparison, as 50A stuff is more expensive. But it valuable more for the GCFI qualities than the wire protection....I'm also using regular breakers to protect the wire.

I went with the 30A breaker auction because, yes; I only plan on using 30A max. It's 2 pole too, which I figure is better. SO, I guess I got a good deal because they are close to $100 new from what I've seen.

Now I'm getting worried about my box filling up :D
 
Steve
BEWARE
That label is only for the outlet that is near your breaker panel
You have no ground fault protection on your dryer circuit unless you change out the dryer breaker for a GFCI breaker
 
Good lookin' out! That's why I asked the forum, because something seemed fishy :D I think it supplies the kitchen, which is right off the garage and near the panel. Glad I bought the breaker, even if it cuts into my budget. I was reading Nostalgia's THREAD today, where his heatstick filled with water.......:eek:
 
Redman67 is right. I'm a former electrician and that is not a GFCI breaker. A GFCI breaker has a test button on it for monthly testing.
 
I think I'm leaning more towards the 30a GFCI Cord route, makes the system a bit more portable. I've got 30a service in my basement and 30a service in my garage so it gives me more options. I have a 50a GFCI breaker that I was going to install in my box, until I saw the difference in wire prices! Anyone want a 50a Square D GFCI? ;)
 
Good...that makes me glad I went with the 30A GFCI. I don't have the space, money, or patience to put that 8 AWG into my toolbox enclosure. As is, the GFCI will likely take up some space.
 
A late note, #8 AWG is for 40A circuits, #6 AWG is for 50A. If I remember correctly, for the Cutler Hammer panel shown, the GFI breaker is more expensive than say an equivalent Murray/GE/SQ D homeline.
 
I think I'm leaning more towards the 30a GFCI Cord route, makes the system a bit more portable. I've got 30a service in my basement and 30a service in my garage so it gives me more options. I have a 50a GFCI breaker that I was going to install in my box, until I saw the difference in wire prices! Anyone want a 50a Square D GFCI? ;)

Just bought a HOM 50A GFI breaker today on ebay.. it's going to be put in my garage subpanel that's fed with a 40A breaker. I'll size the wire for 40A, the only downside is that if it does trip for being over current I'll have a long walk to the main panel to reset it than if it was just in the subpanel.
 
Panel GFCI is the outlet which is right next or below the panel. It should be the only item on this circuit, and it should (per the label) be a GFCI outlet.

It does not mean the entire panel is GFCI protected.
 
Yes, you're right....about 15" below the main panel there is a GFCI outlet. You'd think I would have realized that, but I was desperately hoping I had GFCI protection for the panel so I didn't have to spend more money/time.
 
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