Whats the deal with my pid??

So i have a love controls 16A pid controlling a 1500 watt 120v element but i cant get the element to turn on, everything else works...i have the thing wired like this:

http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/pid/diagram.jpg

I have this SSR:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-State-Rel...ryZ36328QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

except for were the power supply and ground is wired into the pid unit itself.

heres the manual for it....
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/HTDOCS/pdffiles/iom/temperature/16A_iom.pdf

I REALLY NEED HELP WITH THIS ONE PLEASE.lol i thought i would never ask that.lol

oh yeah and i spent hours today reading the manual and playing with the pid.lol

********DRUNK DO NOT DO WITH CONFIRMATION FROM ME TOMMMOROW OR OTHERS()((((((((((((((((

Ditch the SSR - the wiring diagram you linked to was for an Omega 9000 (and others controller) with pulse output to to China Copy SSR, but your Love Controler, which I have never used is referenced at 16 Amp for a 12.52 Amp draw.....You probably fried the DC low volatage SSR or, if you have it wired exactly like the Omega controller sent no power to it. If the love acts as a relay, but you are trying to send pulse power thru the relay, but not supplying lines mains this is the reason. I am drunk now, so do not do this unless you PM me, or someone else replies, since I have only used the Omega controllers you refernce and not the love controllers, but I think the loves only have a built in relay and you need to do like this ditch the SSR and use pins 7-8 as a switch which I think it might be. So Pin 7 Hot leg of your power, Pin 8 to your load, and the other wire of your load to your neutral leg of your power cord. This uses those pins as the relay. Your diagram is for a controller which sends our power to throw a relay exactly as I have referenced pins 7&8, but if the controller is rated at 16A why does it need a relay.

Again PM me tommorow and I will look at the stuff when I can see the screen better. I a sure we can get this working.

thank you so much for your help, i bought the thing new of ebay, but i assumed the thing came with an ssr..... but maybe i should have looked at the version of the product. i will definitly pm you tommarow

I'll be following this as well as I have a temperature controller I am going to hook up soon, thanks!

GuateBrewer said:

If the love acts as a relay, but you are trying to send pulse power thru the relay, but not supplying lines mains this is the reason.

Click to expand...

+1 on the idea that you may be using the relay instead of pulse DC output. What is the full model number of the controller? reference page 3 of the manual to find out if the outputs are confirgured with relay, SSR, or DC. Regardless of the configuration, you DO need that big SSR to control the 1500W heating element, because according to page 41 of the manual you linked, the relay in the controller is only rated for 3A and the built-in SSR option is rated for even less current.

so im confused is my ssr wired wrong bc we need it now, or do i just have the wrong ssr??

kickflip_mj said:

so im confused is my ssr wired wrong bc we need it now, or do i just have the wrong ssr??

Click to expand...

What make and model is the PID? What make and model is the SSR. For the SSR please list the control voltage. It will be listed as the input. For the PID there is a long series of numbers on the side or the back, list those as well. These letters and numbers denote what options the PID came with from the factory. This will tell me if the SSR you have is correct or not. Remember that after the PID is hooked up you still have to program the thing. If you don't, even if your wiring is correct, the PID will not operate. It may be programed for cooling or the other output may be programed for heating instead of the one you need. s.

The SSR you have will work, but you need a DC power source to operate it. Look up the model number on the PID controller. Hopefully either output A or output B is a 15VDC output (see page 3 of the manual). This is what you need to use to actuate the SSR you have. If you have it connected to a relay output then you essentially just have the SSR connected to a switch that is opened and closed by the controller, but you still need to provide the DC voltage to the circuit.

O.k. Kickflip If you have a DC out put on the PID hook the input on the SSR to that. Take note, here, though, I did not read through the whole of the instructions to see what the output voltage the the PID is. A lot of the times this is a 5volt output, which would not be enough to operate the SSR. If this is the case, hopefully the other output is a straight relay. You will then need to pick up a DC transformer. This will power the control on the SSR. The transformer just gets hooked up direct to power and thesecondary's hot will go to the PID and then to the SSR. This creates a switch loop. The Ground or the neutral will go straight to the other side of the SSR. I hop this helps. S.

ok the pid is a Love controller 16A..... the model number is 16A2150


heres the specs for the ssr:


Product Number DC-RR013
Product Name Solid State Relays SSR 24-480V AC, 25A + Heat Sink
Outline Dimension 57.4L X 44.8W X 31.5H(SSR)
Load Voltage 24-480V AC
Load Current 25A
Control Voltage 3-32VDC
Control Current DC3-25mA
Item Net Weight 256g/9.03oz
Item Gross Weight 395g/13.93oz

The DC out on the controller, if there is one, is 15VDC. The SSR in the ebay picture has a DC input range of 3 - 32 VDC. So, if the controller is optioned to have a DC output, then you should be all set. If not, follow what slnies said.

well here is what the numbers mean on my model. 16A2150

16A
2= features- standard
1= Alarm- yes
5= output A - current
0= output B- none

what should i do now??

Ok the picture you showed is not the same controller as you have.

The model number indicates that output 1 is set to send to pulse the SSR you should be good to go.

Connection

Pins
1+ 3- Thermocouple (You must use the special thermocouple wire here, not regular wire if you need a longer cord, you must buy the proper type J,K,N etc)
13 14 120V AC Mains Power
15+ 16- run these wires to the input side plus and minus on your SSR

The SSR is just a switch so then you will wire the other side of it like that. How you do it with your terminal block and stuff is up to you but the main idea is simply. Wall could be your terminal block. *** are wire

W L
A *********************** O
L A
L ************ SSR ******** D

After its wired up correctly you need to configure the unit per the manual, most important step is make sure you have it set for the proper thermocouple type, and that is it setup for heating.

It should have a decent set of default which you can use unless you get an Error in the Control Loop message. If this happens you will need to extend the time function of the unit.

Good luck.

i will try that for sure, im not so sure i understand the wall part??

kickflip_mj said:

well here is what the numbers mean on my model. 16A2150

16A
2= features- standard
1= Alarm- yes
5= output A - current
0= output B- none

Click to expand...

This doesn't match up with the picture of the PID you provided in your first post. It has a different set of terminals than a 16A2150. Did you take the picture?

Paul

The WALL simply means 120V AC power source.

no i know they dont match up thats one of my main problems, i used the picture as a refrence.

yea so I googled PID, and now you guys are scaring me

http://www.cdc.gov/std/PID/STDFact-PID.htm









sorry bored at work

man you guys are my heros, thank you everyone i got the basturd working perfectly!! thank you again.
michael

Great - Enjoy it