Temperature Controller Box: A portable solution

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Boerderij_Kabouter

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So I have seen a lot of people interested in a temperature controller they can use for a fridge or freezer but do not want to install directly into the unit. Many people in this situation opt for the Ranco or Johnson controllers.

I prefer the adaptability of the LOVE controllers because they are more programmable and can be used for whatever purpose and in whatever way you want.

For this project I used a LOVE TS2-2100 two stage controller, a gfci outlet, an extension cord, a waterproof box, and some spare 14 ga. wire.

First for wiring information look here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/love-temp-controller-series-ts-wiring-diagram-2008-a-88369/

This is my brother's new controller box and how we programmed it...

CIMG2967.JPG


CIMG2968.JPG


CIMG2969.JPG


That is the probe sticking out the back. He just cut a hole in the back so he can pull out the probe and push the excess cord into the box. He secured the probe cord with an anchor to avoid accidentally pulling out of the unit.

CIMG2966.JPG


The outlet is a two circuit outlet. The top receptacle is wired to the first relay and the bottom receptacle is wired to the second relay. This unit can be used for heating and cooling.

Wiring diagram: Disregard the programming cues at the top, read below:

Wiring_diagram_fro_Love_TSS2-21002.bmp


Here is how to program the unit:

When you first plug the controller in and fire it up a buzzer will sound and ErP will flash on the screen. Here is how to enter your controller into single probe mode:

1. Press and hold the "SET" button for 8 seconds or until "0" flashes on the screen.
2. "0" is the code to grant access to the controllers programming and can be changed to any digit 0-999 to selectively allow access tot he controller.
3. Press "SET" again to tell the controller "0" is the correct code ("0" is the default).
4. Now a parameter will be flashing on the screen. Cycle through the parameters using the "up arrow" until you reach "P5".
5. Press "SET" to enter "P5" programming.
6. Press the down arrow sot hat "1" is displayed on the screen. This indicates single probe operation.
7. Press "SET" again to select single probe operation and return to the parameter screen.
8. Press "SET" and the "down arrow" simultaneously to exit the parameter screen.

You are now operating normally in single probe operation.

To program the controller to work properly with heating and cooling as we have discussed above... follow the same programming steps (now that the beeping has stopped ) to enter parameters "r0"=dep, "r2"=1.5, "c1"=dir, "c2"=inv, and "SP2"=-1.5.

Your programming is now complete and your controller ready to use. To exit the programming screen press set and the down arrow simultaneously.

To set your controller to your desired temperature, press "set" once. "SP1" temperature will flash. Use the arrows to select your desired temperature. Press "set". "SP2" temperature will flash, press "set" again to operate controller at your desired temperature.

.................

"SP2" = -1.5 allows the controller to bring the chamber to temperature without over/under shoot. The temperature will glide to the set point.

............................

This design is best used with a fridge plugged into the first relay (top receptacle) and a heater plugged into the second relay (bottom receptacle). In this arrangement, the controller will cool and heat the chamber to maintain whatever set point you have set regardless of ambient temperatures. For example, you can ferment a lager at 50º, raise to 68º for a D-rest, then drop incrementally to 34º just with the push of a button in any temperature environment. It is a very nice thing to be able to do and is my favorite part of my brewery.

I hope this helps. If you would like to see some more info on this controller check out my fermentation build thread in my sig.
 
That's some great info. Do you have a heating element hooked up to your fermentation box to raise the temps, or does it simply turn off the cooling element until it reaches the desired temp?
 
I think he did... Maybe I am wrong and he plans to add a second GFCI outlet for the heating??? Maybe that is the case. Thank you disgruntled meat cutting gnome.

if it is impossible to split a GFCI, don't do that :D just wire a second outlet to the second relay.
 
I like it. Looks similar to mine, but I'm using an arduino at the moment so I need to connect it to a PC when I want to change the temp value. It's a bit of a pain. I wired the arduino to pull power from a AC/DC transformer in the box so it is standalone. I'm thinking about switching to a temp controller like your setup so that it's easier to see/change the setting values.

dsc00125t.jpg


dsc00126f.jpg

Heat sink for the SSR was stolen from a PC. Phone jack is used for connecting my temp probe.

In the winter I used it to control an aquarium heater in a water bath. Now it's controlling a fridge. I might use it for temp control on my eHLT if I find it to be too inconvenient to just keep an eye on it and manually control the temp.
 
I like the power cord and on/off switch idea. That looks really nice.

Thanks. It's stolen from a busted PC power supply. I'll have to check the wire gauge and switch rating, etc. before I hook it to my 1440 watt element in the eHLT. I might need to do some upgrading.
 
No. You only need 1 GFCI in the circuit. Or I should say, you only need one GFCI in series with the current circuit.

Example, if you have a GFCI breaker, non of the outlets need to be GFCI. If you are plugging this box into a GFCI outlet, none of the outlets on the box need to be GFCI.

Hope that makes sense.
 
is that a single stage controller? I cant read the name really well.

yes its an AUBER single stage controller, I got it used off ebay last month for $20 and then the PID 25A SSR for $10. and the box for $5 + shipping, I didnt need a heater setup so it would suffice for my needs perfectly.
 
To program the controller to work properly with heating and cooling as we have discussed above... follow the same programming steps (now that the beeping has stopped ) to enter parameters "r0"=dep, "r2"=1.5, "c1"=dir, "c2"=inv, and "SP2"=-1.5.

Your programming is now complete and your controller ready to use. To exit the programming screen press set and the down arrow simultaneously.

To set your controller to your desired temperature, press "set" once. "SP1" temperature will flash. Use the arrows to select your desired temperature. Press "set". "SP2" temperature will flash, press "set" again to operate controller at your desired temperature.

.................

"SP2" = -1.5 allows the controller to bring the chamber to temperature without over/under shoot. The temperature will glide to the set point.

I just received a new TSS2-2100. I was reading through the instructions and it seems that there is an "r3" parameter that effects two stage control (i.e. heating and cooling). Is this a new feature, or does your R2=1.5 and SP2=-1.5 setup do the same thing?

Here's what the instructions say:

"Neutral Area Mode (nEU)
Relay 1
Temperature of probe 1 >= SP1+r3 -->relay 2 ON
Temperature of probe 1 <= SP1 -->relay 2 OFF
Relay 2
Temperature of probe 1 <= SP1-r3 -->relay 2 ON
Temperature of probe 1 >= SP1 -->relay 2 OFF"

(For reference see page 4: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/TSS2_iom.pdf)

==========================

Update

I did some thinking and I think I understand now. The reason that the Neutral Area Mode won't work is that it doesn't allow you to correct for thermal mass of the system. With heating (in a water bath, say), you would always overshoot your temps because it won't turn off the heater until it hits SP1.

I thought it might be possible to set r3 negative (say r3=-1.5), but this would just make the heating and cooling turn on at the same time and fight each other. It is potentially great for very precise temperature control, but you'll waste a ton of energy.

I also think I understand your setup now, but I have one remaining question: why do you set SP2 and R2 to 1.5 degrees and not a smaller value (0.5 degrees, say)? By my calcs, if your desired set temp is 68, for example, your settings would let the set temp vary between 65 and 69 degrees (SP1+SP2-r2 and SP1+r1, respectively). I understand that you want to stop heating early to account for thermal mass, but this could be controlled by either SP2 or r2 individually. Here's a possible alternate setup:

SP1=68
SP2=-1.5 (to account for thermal mass)
r1=0.5
r2=0.5

This should hold temps between 66 and 68.5F. (Disclaimer: I haven't actually set up my temp control system, so this is all theoretical until I get the darn thing assembled and tested.)

(Also note that the diagrams and instructions in the above link are incorrect, but it's pretty clear what the instructions should say. These clearly weren't edited by anyone. Maybe I'm the only person to have ever read them...)
 
You are on the right track. I set my system arbitrarily to avoid compressor cycling. Your setting would probably be just fine!

Cheers,
Justin

Also, thanks for your original post. Your instructions were a huge help. My controller is now fully assembled, programmed, and working fine (at least on the workbench).

Now to decide which beer to brew as a test subject...
 
I'm about to start working on one of these using the box in the first post. Does anybody know the name of the compression-type piece that holds the extension cord secure as it's coming into the box? I'm not seeming to run across them at HD or Lowe's...could be I'm just not looking for the right thing.

Thanks!
 
To program the controller to work properly with heating and cooling as we have discussed above... follow the same programming steps (now that the beeping has stopped ) to enter parameters "r0"=dep, "r2"=1.5, "c1"=dir, "c2"=inv, and "SP2"=-1.5.

This design is best used with a fridge plugged into the first relay (top receptacle) and a heater plugged into the second relay (bottom receptacle).

Boerderij_Kabouter:

I have my love tss2-2100 wired and programmed following your helpful guide. Went to plug in the heater and the frig and realized the angle of the frig plugs needs to be in the bottom receptacle to fit. How would the programming change to have the heater in the top receptacle and the frig in the bottom receptacle?

Thanks for the guide in programming the love. I freaked out about the alarm and the ERP until I found this posting. I thought I was going to fry my $70 controller.
 
Bd_K'

Nice box!

What the hell are you guys fermenting that you need the charcoal briquettes and the arm&hammer in the refrigerator?

:mug:
 
Haha... That was the first batch I fermented in the chamber. The charcoal and A&H are there to absorb paint odor and humidity. I just was lazy and didn't take them out before starting to use it.

I use damp rid now to control humidity.
 
BK,

I'm using this exact same box for my temperature control box. I can't find a strain relief that will fit this panel thickness (1/4"). Everything that I can find at mouser is 1/8" or less. Do you remember what product you used here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: After further googling, I believe that it is this one available at Home Depot
 
Just a quick note: I followed this thread to program my Love TSS2-2100. Thank you so much! I just brewed my first all grain (Sweet Porter). Takes longer than I thought but that is ok. Brewing is like therapy to me :)
 
I don't have to worry about freezing temps where I live so I'm not planning to use a heating element in my fermenteezer. I've got it wired and gotten passed the ErP, issue. Any reason I can't configure as the first post in this thread suggests, even though I'm not using relay #2?
 
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