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Thanks for the info guys! My fears have essentially been confirmed, however I'm not as fearful now as before. My next batch is going to be the St. Patrick's stout so I'll try not to fiddle as much. Sounds like what I need is to find a good homebrew store...
 
I started with a wine kit, made some wine, (it's still chillin') A month later I ordered a Mr. Beer kit. Since I had a fermenting bucket and a carboy, the next day I order a beer kit from Midwest Supplies along with a floor capper and some caps. Haven't tasted either yet. 1st Mr Beer batch is a Blond Ale. After fermenting for 2 weeks in the keg, I racked it into 2, 1 gallon carboys (old Mogan David wine bottles, # 6 stopper and an airlock) and let it sit for a week to clear a bit before bottling. Bottle it now, gonna wait 3 weeks (2 more weeks) before cracking one. Got another batch brewing in the keg. I figure I will use the Mr. Beer keg to experiment with small batches.
 
Well I bottled my beer yesterday and before I did I tasted a small amount. And everything that I feared was lifted from my shoulders! Obviously it was flat, but it tasted great! Maybe I was expecting the worst, but I'm pretty stoked.

One question though, my Mr Beer came with 8 bottles. The last bottle that I filled was basically uber-cloudy as I was obviously at the bottom of the keg... Just wondering, since this bottle is nothing like the rest, should I just let it sit for a much longer time after carbonation? Or should I just pitch it and be happy with my 7 full bottles?
 
Well I bottled my beer yesterday and before I did I tasted a small amount. And everything that I feared was lifted from my shoulders! Obviously it was flat, but it tasted great! Maybe I was expecting the worst, but I'm pretty stoked.

One question though, my Mr Beer came with 8 bottles. The last bottle that I filled was basically uber-cloudy as I was obviously at the bottom of the keg... Just wondering, since this bottle is nothing like the rest, should I just let it sit for a much longer time after carbonation? Or should I just pitch it and be happy with my 7 full bottles?

That's known as the trub bottle as it contains more of the trub (the sediment from the bottom of the fermenter) than the others. It will settle out and the bottle will be drinkable (just don't drink the trub). It is actually likely to carbonate faster than the other bottles because it will have more yeast in it.
 
That's known as the trub bottle as it contains more of the trub (the sediment from the bottom of the fermenter) than the others. It will settle out and the bottle will be drinkable (just don't drink the trub). It is actually likely to carbonate faster than the other bottles because it will have more yeast in it.

great! That's what I was hoping. thanks
 
So I've got these two cans of Hopped Malt Extract from Mr.B one is a cowboy Lager and the Other is a Blonde Ale, Does anyone Have any Suggestions on what I could add to them ? I had another red ale HME I boiled it with a pound of Light DME and it's in a fermentor right now.
 
So I've got these two cans of Hopped Malt Extract from Mr.B one is a cowboy Lager and the Other is a Blonde Ale, Does anyone Have any Suggestions on what I could add to them ? I had another red ale HME I boiled it with a pound of Light DME and it's in a fermentor right now.

The hops in an HME have already been boiled, so you usually don't want to boil those any further. The DME can be boiled, but HME should be added when you turn off the heat. How long did you boil the HME?

You could brew the two HMEs you have together. Don't boil either of them. Boil 4-6 cups of water and pour the HMEs in, stir and add to 1 gallon of col water in the fermenter as if you're making a premium refill, then top off to the 2.5 qt mark. If you have more DME, you could add some of that, also. I've made a few batches recently with two HMEs and one Booster (but haven't tried any of them yet, so I don't know how they'll taste).

Use both yeast packets.
 
The hops in an HME have already been boiled, so you usually don't want to boil those any further. The DME can be boiled, but HME should be added when you turn off the heat. How long did you boil the HME?

You could brew the two HMEs you have together. Don't boil either of them. Boil 4-6 cups of water and pour the HMEs in, stir and add to 1 gallon of col water in the fermenter as if you're making a premium refill, then top off to the 2.5 qt mark. If you have more DME, you could add some of that, also. I've made a few batches recently with two HMEs and one Booster (but haven't tried any of them yet, so I don't know how they'll taste).

Use both yeast packets.

I didn't boil the HME, I brought the DME just up to boil for about 5 minutes then I took it off the heat and Added the HME, brought it up to 2.5 qts and pitched Muntons Premium Ale yeast at 68 degrees.
 
I didn't boil the HME, I brought the DME just up to boil for about 5 minutes then I took it off the heat and Added the HME, brought it up to 2.5 qts and pitched Muntons Premium Ale yeast at 68 degrees.

That should work fine. Your earlier post made it look like you boiled the HME.
 
Ok, having math difficulties... I'd like to get a continuous pipeline of homebrew going... And curious how much I'd get with x amount of fermenters.

For instance, If I had one fermenter, going with 2-2-2 ferment-carb-condition, I could have about 2 gallons every two weeks. That's roughly a case every two weeks, or 12 beers a week.

If I had two I could up that to a case a week production, correct?
 
And very happy I've found this forum, especially with such a prominent thread relating to brewing with Mr. Beer:ban:

It's been really enlightening reading through a good portion of this thread and finding answers to many of the things I've been contemplating over this last week of my initiation into the mindset of RDWHAHB.:mug:

Started my first batch last Thursday which is an Englishman's nut brown ale with 1lb of Morgan's caramalt (amber) UME, used about a 1/2 pack of booster and safale s-04 dry. Got the water I used from a mountain spring here.

Temperatures have been pretty high here going from as low as 19 degrees centigrade some nights, but generally closer to 25-26 deg. C, up to 34-35 deg. C daytimes. Have the fermenter in a small, plastic storage box ,water bath and the crappy thermometer at hand, submerged next to the fermenter in the bath, with all of this in a filing cabinet drawer in my garage. Generally the thermometer is showing 26-27 deg. C.

back on this Monday there was a bit of Krauzen around the sides of the keg but it seemed like there wasn't much in the way of action, not much bubbling, so pitched the second half of the sachet of safale. Has been bubbling away nicely since then.

Initial plan is roughly a 2-2-2. 16 days fermenting, 2-3 weeks conditioning, then hopefully I can see through the lagering.

Got a 5 gallon plastic water bottle (#6 on the bottom) from work, quite a few HMEs, UMEs, hops, yeasts in stock, just waiting for another couple of Mr.B fermenters a standard 6.5 gallon fermenter/bottling bucket (and a spigot assembly and airlock/bung for the water bottle) to arrive as I've realised I need to get multiple batches on the go.

I reckon Sticky wicket oatmeal stout is the next project, followed by the American Devil IPA:fro:

Anyway, just want to say thanks for this brilliant resource, and some pretty humourous banter/comments, and I look forward to gaining more knowledge and expertise from you guys in my new hobby.:tank:
 
Started my first batch last Thursday which is an Englishman's nut brown ale with 1lb of Morgan's caramalt (amber) UME, used about a 1/2 pack of booster and safale s-04 dry. Got the water I used from a mountain spring here.

Water is the most important ingredient. The booster will make the beer kind of dry, which some people interpret as "thin". Should still be good, though. :)

Generally the thermometer is showing 26-27 deg. C.

Uh, celsius? Uhm... you mean about 80F? Waay too hot. Remember: the beer inside the fermentor is often several degrees hotter than ambient. If your beer tastes a little "funny", then that would probably be why. :(

back on this Monday there was a bit of Krauzen around the sides of the keg but it seemed like there wasn't much in the way of action, not much bubbling, so pitched the second half of the sachet of safale. Has been bubbling away nicely since then.

Making beer with extract only means that you often have much less krausen. That's a plus, considering that MrB doesn't handle blowoff very well, IMO. :)

The extra yeast probably breached into "overpitch" territory, which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing.

Initial plan is roughly a 2-2-2. 16 days fermenting, 2-3 weeks conditioning, then hopefully I can see through the lagering.

With overpitching you may find your beer is "done" sooner, but it's safer to wait. As for lagering, what do you mean by that? Just storing at a cool temperature? I would make certain your bottles are fully carbed before you store them too cool... temperatures around 40 F (4C) make yeast inactive and after many weeks that temp can actually kill them.

Got a 5 gallon plastic water bottle (#6 on the bottom) from work, quite a few HMEs, UMEs, hops, yeasts in stock, just waiting for another couple of Mr.B fermenters a standard 6.5 gallon fermenter/bottling bucket (and a spigot assembly and airlock/bung for the water bottle) to arrive as I've realised I need to get multiple batches on the go.

Make sure your fermentors are food-grade.

I reckon Sticky wicket oatmeal stout is the next project, followed by the American Devil IPA:fro:

Anyway, just want to say thanks for this brilliant resource, and some pretty humourous banter/comments, and I look forward to gaining more knowledge and expertise from you guys in my new hobby.:tank:

Sweet! I hope you like your first brew, but if you don't just cold-condition it longer. Time heals (most) beer-wounds. It's good to get the next batch(es) going as soon as possible, so you can be patient with your first batch and you have more to look forward to!

The one thing I'd suggest you do is get a better temperature set-up, but since the season is changing that will soon be taken care of for you here in the Northern hemisphere. :mug:
 
And very happy I've found this forum, especially with such a prominent thread relating to brewing with Mr. Beer:ban:

It's been really enlightening reading through a good portion of this thread and finding answers to many of the things I've been contemplating over this last week of my initiation into the mindset of RDWHAHB.:mug:

Started my first batch last Thursday which is an Englishman's nut brown ale with 1lb of Morgan's caramalt (amber) UME, used about a 1/2 pack of booster and safale s-04 dry. Got the water I used from a mountain spring here.

Temperatures have been pretty high here going from as low as 19 degrees centigrade some nights, but generally closer to 25-26 deg. C, up to 34-35 deg. C daytimes. Have the fermenter in a small, plastic storage box ,water bath and the crappy thermometer at hand, submerged next to the fermenter in the bath, with all of this in a filing cabinet drawer in my garage. Generally the thermometer is showing 26-27 deg. C.

back on this Monday there was a bit of Krauzen around the sides of the keg but it seemed like there wasn't much in the way of action, not much bubbling, so pitched the second half of the sachet of safale. Has been bubbling away nicely since then.

Initial plan is roughly a 2-2-2. 16 days fermenting, 2-3 weeks conditioning, then hopefully I can see through the lagering.

Got a 5 gallon plastic water bottle (#6 on the bottom) from work, quite a few HMEs, UMEs, hops, yeasts in stock, just waiting for another couple of Mr.B fermenters a standard 6.5 gallon fermenter/bottling bucket (and a spigot assembly and airlock/bung for the water bottle) to arrive as I've realised I need to get multiple batches on the go.

I reckon Sticky wicket oatmeal stout is the next project, followed by the American Devil IPA:fro:

Anyway, just want to say thanks for this brilliant resource, and some pretty humourous banter/comments, and I look forward to gaining more knowledge and expertise from you guys in my new hobby.:tank:

Justibone already gave you good advice. The only thing I'd add is that I've read on other forums of people using water bottles as fermenters and some have reported that they worked for a couple of batches, then burst, spilling all the contents. I think a better option would be to get a food grade plastic bucket, drill a hole in the lid for an airlock and use that instead.
 
I have a one-and-a-half year old at home, and I don't do any brewing until after he's in bed for the night, usually about 9:00pm. So Mr. Beer is something that works for me.

I'm not willing to give up a half a weekend day (and risk my marriage), but am interested in whether there is any way I can move to 5-gallon extract brewing given my time limitations.

Any suggestions? Is this even possible? I know I can make better beer than what I am limited to with Mr. Beer. But how, time-wise?
 
Water is the most important ingredient. The booster will make the beer kind of dry, which some people interpret as "thin". Should still be good, though. :)


Uh, celsius? Uhm... you mean about 80F? Waay too hot. Remember: the beer inside the fermentor is often several degrees hotter than ambient. If your beer tastes a little "funny", then that would probably be why. :(



Making beer with extract only means that you often have much less krausen. That's a plus, considering that MrB doesn't handle blowoff very well, IMO. :)

The extra yeast probably breached into "overpitch" territory, which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing.


With overpitching you may find your beer is "done" sooner, but it's safer to wait. As for lagering, what do you mean by that? Just storing at a cool temperature? I would make certain your bottles are fully carbed before you store them too cool... temperatures around 40 F (4C) make yeast inactive and after many weeks that temp can actually kill them.



Make sure your fermentors are food-grade.



Sweet! I hope you like your first brew, but if you don't just cold-condition it longer. Time heals (most) beer-wounds. It's good to get the next batch(es) going as soon as possible, so you can be patient with your first batch and you have more to look forward to!

The one thing I'd suggest you do is get a better temperature set-up, but since the season is changing that will soon be taken care of for you here in the Northern hemisphere. :mug:

Was hoping that the Mr. Beer nut brown ale HME, 1/2 pack of booster plus the 1lb of Morgan's caramalt UME would produce something that's not too far off the mark. Having said that, regarding my temperature troubles, as you mention above, I'm pretty much resigned to my first batch resembling an alcoholic, banana infused, fusel bomb, migraine factory:eek: But it won't get dumped and will definitely be alllowed plenty time to mature/mellow.:mug:

Yup, by lagering I meant cold storage. Was thinking 2-3 weeks at room temp and then a week or so in the fridge but maybe it'll need longer at room temps to overcome the damage done by high fermentation temps. Will make sure the pet bottles are rock hard before chilling.

I already went down to the local home-centre today and picked up a food grade plastic bucket, the type used for making pickled vegetables and kimchi, so I reckon that should be up to the job.

Looks like the weather is going to get cooler from next Tuesday onwards so I'm all set to start on the oatmeal stout or the black tower porter.

Thanks Justibone and bpgreen for the advice:mug:
 
I have a one-and-a-half year old at home, and I don't do any brewing until after he's in bed for the night, usually about 9:00pm. So Mr. Beer is something that works for me.

I'm not willing to give up a half a weekend day (and risk my marriage), but am interested in whether there is any way I can move to 5-gallon extract brewing given my time limitations.

Any suggestions? Is this even possible? I know I can make better beer than what I am limited to with Mr. Beer. But how, time-wise?

I think you've got a couple of options.

First of all, Using Mr Beer equipment doesn't limit you at all in terms of quality. You can do anything with Mr Beer that you can do with a 5 gallon kit, except for make 5 gallons in one batch (and you can do that if you have multiple fermenters).

There are 5 gallon extract kits from Coopers and Muntons that are similar to Mr Beer kits (prehopped LME, no hop boil required).

Those kits will have the same benefits and the same downfalls that you have from Mr Beer. The difference is basically in the size of the batch.

All of the following will apply to both Mr Beer sized batches and 5 gallon batches.

If you want more control over the beer, you'll want to use unhopped extract and do a hop boil. That will add at least 30 minutes to the process. A typical hop boil schedule is 60 minutes for bittering, 20 for flavor and 7 for aroma, but if you're pressed for time, you can do a 30 minute bittering/flavor boil and a 15 minute flavor/aroma boil.

You can also steep specialty grains to add flavor, body, head retention and (according to some) a fresher taste. That adds about 30 minutes to the process, but most of that time is time where the grain is just sitting, so if you can start that ahead of time, it adds no real time to the process.

The next step is a partial mash. This adds about 60 minutes up front, but, as with steeping, most of that is time where the grain is just sitting in the water. However, once the mash is done, you really should boil it for an hour, so if you go this route, you may as well do the hop boil and take complete control.

The next step after that is all grain. But for all grain, I think you're gonna need to get a bigger pot.

It really doesn't matter if you're using Mr Beer or a 5 gallon fermenter, the steps are pretty much the same
 
I have a one-and-a-half year old at home, and I don't do any brewing until after he's in bed for the night, usually about 9:00pm. So Mr. Beer is something that works for me.

I'm not willing to give up a half a weekend day (and risk my marriage), but am interested in whether there is any way I can move to 5-gallon extract brewing given my time limitations.

Any suggestions? Is this even possible? I know I can make better beer than what I am limited to with Mr. Beer. But how, time-wise?

I used to brew with Mr.Beer, now I do 5 gal extract batches, usually brew around 10:30pm or so on a Friday or Saturday night, usually going to bed around 3-3:30 and up by 9 AM. Good luck!
 
I have a one-and-a-half year old at home, and I don't do any brewing until after he's in bed for the night, usually about 9:00pm. So Mr. Beer is something that works for me.

I'm not willing to give up a half a weekend day (and risk my marriage), but am interested in whether there is any way I can move to 5-gallon extract brewing given my time limitations.

Any suggestions? Is this even possible? I know I can make better beer than what I am limited to with Mr. Beer. But how, time-wise?

Steeping is your best bet. Certain grains don't have to be converted - "mashed" - you can just use them to basically make "tea". If you don't have the 20-30 minutes to do that ahead of time, you can do it the night before, refrigerate it, and then brew the next night. You're going to boil it with your malt extract, so no worries if it gets a random bug in it overnight in the fridge. :)

Dry-hopping (adding either hop pellets or leaves) to your fermented beer is another option to make even better beer without more time required. Basically, you just add the hops you think smell the yummiest (may I suggest Citra for a mandarin-orange aroma? or Amarillo for grapefruit?) to your MrB after the first week of fermentation is done. Don't worry about spoilage - hops are naturally sanitary! You will lose extra beer to trub loss, and the hop aroma fades after a month or two, but it makes an IPA fantastic!

Both methods only add a couple bucks extra cost to the batch. :mug:

Those are the two options I would offer to my MrB friends in your situation.
 
I'm pretty much resigned to my first batch resembling an alcoholic, banana infused, fusel bomb, migraine factory :eek:

There is a thread about being able to get rid of the fusels by evaporating them off at 140-150F (I think he used a pot of water at that temp for half an hour? I don't remember).

With plastic bottles you can't just set them in a hot pot, though. If yours are fusel-y, for goodness' sake, give up on them. I've *had* that migraine, and I *NEVER* want it again. Oh. My. God. I didn't want to die, but I definitely was wishing for a coma... :drunk:

Or you could save it to give to your brother-in-law when he comes over to mooch free beer. :eek: :mad: :D :rockin:
 
Or you could save it to give to your brother-in-law when he comes over to mooch free beer. :eek: :mad: :D :rockin:

;)

Fortunately, or possibly unfortunately in this instance, my brother in law is completely teetotal. However, there are definitely some potential candidates for your prescription:fro::ban::mug:
 
There is a thread about being able to get rid of the fusels by evaporating them off at 140-150F (I think he used a pot of water at that temp for half an hour? I don't remember).

With plastic bottles you can't just set them in a hot pot, though. If yours are fusel-y, for goodness' sake, give up on them. I've *had* that migraine, and I *NEVER* want it again.
X

OK, I'll just RDWHA (Wychwood hobgoblin)CB and just wait and see what presents itself from the primary.:drunk:

In other news, a Young's, 25litre, fermentor, and a couple of other items, also appeared today so, climate permitting, Another batch with emphasis on fermentation temp control will be starting soon. :mug:

Also, one of SWMBO's friends has offered me their old fridge so I'll check that out for suitability. :fro:
 
Fridges are great for fermentation chambers. Look for prices on Johnson controllers (no relation, lol) and enjoy! If you get a fridge as a fermentation chamber, you can do real lagers! :D

Lagering temp is pretty close to good stout serving temp... hint-hint. ;)
 
Fridges are great for fermentation chambers. Look for prices on Johnson controllers (no relation, lol) and enjoy! If you get a fridge as a fermentation chamber, you can do real lagers! :D

Lagering temp is pretty close to good stout serving temp... hint-hint. ;)

Due to the fact that Japanese houses, on the whole, exhibit very few of the characteristics of insulation, I.E hotter than outside in the summer and colder than outside in the winter, my bedroom will probably be ideal for fermenting lagers from November thru March...................just need to block out any UV.:D.

Actually, A plastic storage bin on the balcony will, more than likely, be where the majority of bottles end up doing their cold conditioning. Gets pretty fresh in the garage as well so not too short of options:ban:

Definitely need to make space for the extra fridge though;):fro:
 
Anyone ever have trouble with customer support? I received 5 cans, 4 of which were too dented to even open. I contacted them and they want pictures. It just seems a little much. I told them they should have used more packing peanuts and they say send a picture of the peanuts and we will determine if we used enough.

Well, duh, the cans are dented, so obviously you didn't.
 
To be honest I'll probably upgrade to real brewing soon, but being as christmas and my birthday are coming up, my girlfriend has forbidden me from buying anything for myself (because then she won't know what gifts to get me). So I'm stuck with the MB for now!
 
Anyone ever have trouble with customer support? I received 5 cans, 4 of which were too dented to even open. I contacted them and they want pictures. It just seems a little much. I told them they should have used more packing peanuts and they say send a picture of the peanuts and we will determine if we used enough.

Well, duh, the cans are dented, so obviously you didn't.


The general feedback on the MrB customer service is OUTSTANDING. I don't think asking for a picture of the damage is asking too much, honestly.

They have been very good in the past about immediately sending out replacements, but maybe they've had a spike in people trying to take advantage and are asking for simple proof.

It can't be that hard to send them a pic, can it?
 
Not the damage. The packing peanuts. They said they will determine if they used enough packing peanuts based on the picture of the box.

My point is... If there are dents, they didnt use enough. Period. That or the cans were dented before they shipped them. The box they came in was in perfect condition. It wasn't UPS.

I shouldn't have to take a picture of something that is obviously wrong. Besides, taking a picture of packing peanuts proves nothing. If I wanted to lie I could have thrown the peanuts away.

If they had asked for pictures of the dented cans, sure I understand that. But then again, I really shouldn't have to take time out of my day to fix their mistake.

Ah well, felt good to rant at least.
 
Not the damage. The packing peanuts. They said they will determine if they used enough packing peanuts based on the picture of the box.

My point is... If there are dents, they didnt use enough. Period. That or the cans were dented before they shipped them. The box they came in was in perfect condition. It wasn't UPS.

I shouldn't have to take a picture of something that is obviously wrong. Besides, taking a picture of packing peanuts proves nothing. If I wanted to lie I could have thrown the peanuts away.

If they had asked for pictures of the dented cans, sure I understand that. But then again, I really shouldn't have to take time out of my day to fix their mistake.

Ah well, felt good to rant at least.

It sounds to me like they're trying to improve their process and reduce the odds of somebody else getting dented cans in the future. You've probably spent more time ranting about it than you would have spent taking the picture and sending it.
 
The point is, he had a bad experience. Let him rant. That's what the Internet is for... that and pr0n, of course. ;)

Mr Beer can be real brewing, if you get away from their pre-hopped kits. If you see an extract recipe on this board that you like, you can do it in MrB if you cut it in half. Also, people who use MrB often end up sealing the lid and adding a true airlock.
 
As a new member to HBT, I had no idea that Mr. Beer had such a profound effect on so many home brewers. I got my Mr. Beer kit for Christmas 2001, made two batches and was hooked. As I remember, my Mr. Beer wasn't that great but it was my stepping stone into a wonderful hobby that I've been in/out/in/out/into over the past decade. Recently though, I made a real commitment to my homebrew and moved to all-grain 10 gallon batches. I now own 4 glass fermenters, 2 plastic fermenters, 4 corney kegs, a beer fridge with 2 taps, and a Blichmann tower.

All that from a $39 brown plastic container and a few cans of malt syrup. Mr. Beer is indeed more powerful than we may know...
 
Yeah, I wasn't trying to put down MrB in general. I've had a lot of fun with it so far. I was really just wondering if I experienced an isolated incident or if everyone had a bad experience.

I'll probably buy from them again until I get my "real" brewing stuff.

All in all, I appreciate the fact that that cheap little plastic keg turned me on to a hobby I otherwise wouldn't have know could be so fun.
 
MR. Beer is real I remember a kit I made called "Big Bean Bock"... its slightly advanced than the just the can.. it came with some specialty grains and it explained how to "Crush" grains instead of "Grind" for brewing... It was my first time using a rolling pin to crush roasted coffee beans for the recipe... I've been using that technique for all my specialty grains where the quantity isnt worth pulling our a mill... (if i had one).

Damn good stepping stone... I actually more recently started thinking about using that 3 gallon barrel for making a barely wine in smaller batches...

How would you seal up the lid for use with a "real" airlock? From what i remember the thread on the neck has two slits to allow the pressure to escape... how would you seal it?
 
M
How would you seal up the lid for use with a "real" airlock? From what i remember the thread on the neck has two slits to allow the pressure to escape... how would you seal it?

Wouldn't silicon bond/sealant be OK? Just make sure it doesn't protrude past the top of the mouth of the keg and stop the cap sealing.

This guy did it using a hot glue gun;

 
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Wouldn't silicon bond/sealant be OK? Just make sure it doesn't protrude past the top of the mouth of the keg and stop the cap sealing.

In my experience, not sure there'a a point to doing this (sealing the lid and using an airlock) unless you're going to it sit there for a LONG time.

I brew almost nothing but All Grain in my Mr. Beer fermenter and have not had a problem with just using the lid. :drunk:
 
In my experience, not sure there'a a point to doing this (sealing the lid and using an airlock) unless you're going to it sit there for a LONG time.

I brew almost nothing but All Grain in my Mr. Beer fermenter and have not had a problem with just using the lid. :drunk:

+1

I've only done one all grain, but a bunch of PMs. I've got airlocks on the 4 and 5 gallon batches, but I use the Mr Beer fermenters as is.
 
+1

I've only done one all grain, but a bunch of PMs. I've got airlocks on the 4 and 5 gallon batches, but I use the Mr Beer fermenters as is.

+ another 1 to this.

I do all AG batches in my MrB fermenter as well and have left them in primary as long as 4 weeks with no issues. I wouldn't go through the trouble of modifying it.
 
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