Brew stand concept

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Tiber_Brew

Tiber_Brew

It's about the beer.
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Critique, comments, questions, threats, are all welcome.

I might be moving into a house that has a full walk-out basement soon (I only have a crawlspace now). This means brewing expansion of course. A tiered brew stand will be one of the first projects.

I used Unigraphics NX to model and draft some rough envelope estimates. I'm working on a detail model and drawing that would include each piece in the assembly, pending on some further input.

Material: wood, insulation w/ reflective foil (on surfaces facing burner), deck screws
Construction: 2x4 frame, with 3/4" plywood shelving


3D picture:

brewstand.jpg


Envelope drawing:

BREW_STAND_ASSY_C.jpg


Detail pictures:

stand_assy_final2.jpg


stand_assy_final1.jpg
 
Sawdustguy said:
The boil kettle burner is most definetly going to start a fire. That reflectix will not help.
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure about that.

I'll have to conduct a little experiment with some plywood and my burner setup to make sure. Thanks for the heads up, though.

I should add that this is just an envelope, and the final product wouldn't have walls and appear solid as shown above.
 
Wood stands can work. There are a few members that have them. You really have to be careful that no combustibles are close to the burner. The reflectix really will not stop the radient heat that you can expect from a 100,000 BTU burner. Best of luck to you.
 
I looked at a design like that. Should work. I ultimately went with a longer narrower unit because it stores and moves easier. I went with a single shelf inside that runs 3/4 length, for storage and holding the propane tanks. I left my boil kettle loose so i could place it inside the stand for storage and move the stand away once the boil started. Not so much for fire hazard as room to work and start putting things away once the boil started.
(I use a fired 8.5 gal HLT and Dual heated mash tuns because i had a camp stove and two 1/4 kegs and a turkey fryer available. when i upgraded to a Keggle for a BK, my system still worked well)

I like my wood stand very well, and do not feel afraid of fire at all. The only change i will make is to add a leveling adjustment at one corner to make up for uneven concrete and add a pair of 6 inch wheels at one end so i can lift and roll it around like a wheel barrow.
 
schmagy said:
I looked at a design like that. Should work. I ultimately went with a longer narrower unit because it stores and moves easier. I went with a single shelf inside that runs 3/4 length, for storage and holding the propane tanks. I left my boil kettle loose so i could place it inside the stand for storage and move the stand away once the boil started. Not so much for fire hazard as room to work and start putting things away once the boil started.
(I use a fired 8.5 gal HLT and Dual heated mash tuns because i had a camp stove and two 1/4 kegs and a turkey fryer available. when i upgraded to a Keggle for a BK, my system still worked well)

I like my wood stand very well, and do not feel afraid of fire at all. The only change i will make is to add a leveling adjustment at one corner to make up for uneven concrete and add a pair of 6 inch wheels at one end so i can lift and roll it around like a wheel barrow.
Click to expand...

My burner wouldn't be fixed either. It would store easier, and I could remove it for cleaning. I see what you're saying as far as shelving for storage, which is a possibility. I might end up building something more permanent in the basement for storage as well.

A few questions on using wood stands for you:
1. How far away is any wood from your burner(s)?
2. Did you use any insulating and/or reflective material?
3. Did you apply any finish to the wood to protect it?

Thanks for the input.
 
Sawdustguy said:
Wood stands can work. There are a few members that have them. You really have to be careful that no combustibles are close to the burner. The reflectix really will not stop the radient heat that you can expect from a 100,000 BTU burner. Best of luck to you.
Click to expand...

I will have to pay close attention to the design and do some more research since you brought this up. I didn't think it would be that big of an issue, but you got me wondering now.

Do you know where I can see some pictures of wooden stands?

Thanks again for the comments.
 
May as well build a sturdy step for when you need to access the mash tun. There is some heat resistant panel you will see being used in that thread drkershner linked you to.
Reflectix is like shiny bubble wrap, I don't think you will find much use for that in a direct fired setup.
Another concern with propane in the basement is adequate ventilation, as in serious ventilation, and most would recommend a CO monitor.
 
With the vertical spacing as you have it if you built it from angle iron you could flip the positions of the boil kettle and chiller and push them back under the HLT/MLT and halve the floor space required.
 
bendavanza said:
May as well build a sturdy step for when you need to access the mash tun. There is some heat resistant panel you will see being used in that thread drkershner linked you to.
Reflectix is like shiny bubble wrap, I don't think you will find much use for that in a direct fired setup.
Another concern with propane in the basement is adequate ventilation, as in serious ventilation, and most would recommend a CO monitor.
Click to expand...
I'm not planning on using reflectix specifically, just some sort of heat resistant material that would protect the wood behind it. I'm open as to what material others have used, and what works best for that.

I do plan on having ample ventilation. I would set up cross ventilation with intake at a different side of the basement, and exhaust at the walk out doors. On nice days I might brew outside on the patio. Good idea with the CO detector. That's cheap insurance there.

Thanks!
 
Here's another iteration.

It needs quite a bit more thought and ideas, but the biggest change is that I move the preboil wort into the kettle via the 5gal bucket shown on the floor, instead of using gravity as with the old design.

The green thing is supposed to be roughly the dimensions of myself 6'3" tall for reference, since I don't show any dimensions.

There is some roof flashing around the base of the keggle and burner, and the grey area is heat resistant material.

I was thinking about putting another heat barrier between the keggle and the MLT, too.

2T_assy.jpg
 

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