I'm thinking of going all grain!
I don't have the tim, money, facilities or space to build a home brewery like some of you guys use. (Although I'd love to).
So I've been looking at the easiest way to do it. I've been inspired by this
From what I can tell on top of the extract equipment I have I'd also need the following.
A Mash tun,
An effective system for sparging.
A larger boil container and a gas supply beefy enough to do a rapid boil.
A wort chiller.
I've looked and found this system.
Along with.
I'd like your comments and suggestions please before I commit. Can you see any draw back.
I don't have the tim, money, facilities or space to build a home brewery like some of you guys use. (Although I'd love to).
So I've been looking at the easiest way to do it. I've been inspired by this
From what I can tell on top of the extract equipment I have I'd also need the following.
A Mash tun,
An effective system for sparging.
A larger boil container and a gas supply beefy enough to do a rapid boil.
A wort chiller.
I've looked and found this system.
CORDON BREW BRUHEAT BOILER, BREWERS MASHING BUCKET (Reference #727)
A versatile device which acts as a mash tun as well as a 5 gallon boiler. This unit comes complete with its simmerstat, heating element and tap. As a mash tun it enables you to set and automatically maintain an accurate mash temperature throughout the mashing period. To prevent the grain accumulating around the element while mashing use a RITCHIE MASHING & SPARGING BAG (FREE when you buy this boiler - no need to order separately). After mashing leave the grain in situ and open the tap to run off the malt liquor and at the same time sparge to rinse the remaining maltose and dextrin sugars from the grain. To assist in the sparging operation use PHIL'S ROTATING SPARGING ARM which is designed to straddle the top of the boiler. After sparging remove the grain (makes good compost!), rinse the boiler and then fit the BRUPAKS HOP STRAINER into the back of the tap. Return the malt liquor to the boiler and add the hops. The BRUHEAT BOILER can now be used to boil the entire 5 gallons of wort. To secure a good "hot break" ( protein coagulation) a vigorous boil is recommended and the BRUHEAT BOILER is ideal for this purpose as all the boiling can be carried out in the open air (in dry weather of course) to save fogging up the house with steam! Add a teaspoon of IRISH MOSS for the last 15 minutes of the boil to coagulate the proteins. Leave the wort to settle for 15 minutes after turning off the heat and then run off the wort through the tap, the hops will now form a natural filter bed around the BRUPAKS HOP STRAINER to ensure you leave the proteins behind. The collected wort can now be force cooled using the BRUPAKS IMMERSION BEER WORT CHILLER which not only cools the wort to yeast pitching temperature in about 10 minutes but also produces a further protein dropout known as the "cold break".
Along with.
PHIL'S ROTATING SPARGING ARM 10" (Reference #1324)
Straddles the top rim of a BRUHEAT or ELECTRIM BOILER to automate the sparging operation. Can be fed from one of our standard 5 gallon BEER FERMENTING BINS fitted with a FERMENTER TAP. Use one metre of 3/8" TUBING to connect the tap to this SPARGING ARM. Fill the bin with water at sparging temperature and open the tap, the flow of water automatically rotates the sparging arm which emits a very fine spray to sparge the grain as it revolves.
I'd like your comments and suggestions please before I commit. Can you see any draw back.