Wake N Bake Stout Extract Clone

Hi,
I would like to try this recipe from "Can You Brew It" but am only able to brew extract. I am wondering what would be the best liquid extract to use. I am also wondering if I can just steep the other grains and oats. I have steeped while making my two other beers but so am familiar with the process. I have not yet done a partial mash. Will this yield good results or is this beer out of my reach as an extract brewer.




All recipes are (unless otherwise specified): 6 gallons post-boil, 70% efficiency, Morey for color, 15% evaporation, 7.27 gallons preboil, Rager IBU, and most hops are in grams not ounces. Most, if not all recipes are primary only (no secondary).

If you brew this, please reply with your results for discussion.

THIS WAS DEEMED NOT CLONED by a vote of 3-1, however it was found to be very close and the reasoning for the differences is described below.

OG 1088
FG ?
IBUs 44.4
SRM 57

6.8kg US 2-row 68%
800g crystal 80lov 8.1%
700g flaked barley 7.1%
700g flaked oats 7.1%
300g british black patent 450lov 3%
300g british chocolate malt 350lov 3%
300g british roasted barley 450lov 3%

British malts are Thomas Fawcett.

Boil for 90min

21g Chinook 13%AA at 60min
14g Nugget 13%AA at 30min

Wyeast 1272

Mash at 152F for 60min

Ferment at 66F-68F.

Add coffee at 14.6g/gallon of beer, which is 73g in 5 gallons of beer. The coffee is 60% Costa Rican/20% Guatemalan/20% Zimbabwe. [The actual coffee that Terrapin uses can be found here]

Ferment completely, then rack beer onto coarse ground coffee, hold for 48 hours.

Pcoonan, the 2-row could be substituted with a light dme. specialty grains (crystal, black patent, chocolate malt, and roasted barely) are fine to steep. However flaked oats and flaked barley are best not to steep. I have read that you can steep up to a half pound of these and it is an "ok" substitute, but there are a few things to consider about this. 1) oatmeal has essentially no flavor, and steeping is generally a process to extract flavor and color from specialty grains. 2) steeping oats will really only add unfermentable starches to your wort. 3) mashing the oats will give you the mouthfeel creaminess that is characteristic of an oatmeal stout.

I have also been looking for an all extract recipe, but in my research i have come to the conclusion that in order to get a true oatmeal stout, I am going to have to at least do a partial/mini-mash. In your recipe i would do a mini-mash with the 2-row, flaked oats, and flaked barley. You can steep the specialty grains in a seperate pot at the same time and then combine the two pots, bring to a boil and add your hops. Its a little more work, but it will be well worth it in the end! Good luck!

Wow! Great response. Thanks. I have been doing research that has taken me to some similar conclusions. I think my third batch is going to be an IPA. I'll get one more under my belt before taking on a partial mash. Your method sounds great and I've already watched some partial mash videos on you tube. I think the last thing to figure out is how much grain to use in the partial mash. I have an extract recipe worked out but I assume that if I do a partial mash I will need to use less extract. How is that calculated?

Thanks oze for your response. This site has been a great learning tool for me!

oze152 said:

I have also been looking for an all extract recipe, but in my research i have come to the conclusion that in order to get a true oatmeal stout, I am going to have to at least do a partial/mini-mash. In your recipe i would do a mini-mash with the 2-row, flaked oats, and flaked barley. You can steep the specialty grains in a seperate pot at the same time and then combine the two pots, bring to a boil and add your hops. Its a little more work, but it will be well worth it in the end! Good luck!

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Why would you steep the specialty grains seperate and not just add it to the mini-mash?

Ramitt said:

Why would you steep the specialty grains seperate and not just add it to the mini-mash?

Click to expand...

No other reason than that was the only way I was shown. I guess you are right and it would make more sense to do them all together. For a first time masher though I know it was less intimidating for me to do them separately because mentally it feels like there is less to mess up in the mash with less ingredients.

Can you post your extract recipe? That way we could give you more advice on amounts, but in my experience you shouldnt have to change anything. Specialty grains stay at the same amount for all grain/partial mash/extract. If you did a partial mash with the 2row, oats and barley, what extract would you have?

Here is the partial mash/extract recipe I was given:

2.5 lbs Maris Otter or 2row
0.5 lb Black Malt
0.5 lb English Dark Crystal (70-80L)
1 lb Flaked Oats
3.15 lbs Dark Malt Syrup
1 lb Dark Malt DME
2oz Willamette for 60 minutes
WYeast 1945 or 1056 since 1945 can be hard to find

With this recipe the 2row, black malt, dark crystal, and flaked oats are the mini mash, combine them all in a grain bag and mash (steep) qt 152* F for 1 hour. Then sparge with 5qts of 170* F water, one qt at a time. Once this is done, add any water necessary to bring pre boil amount up to 2.5-3 gallons, and the rest is the same as an all extract brew, 60 minute boil with hops and extract.

I don't have an extract recipe. I was really looking to convert the cybit recipe to extract. This last post was very helpful. I think I just need to suck it up and dive into some partial mash brewing. Still confused about how to calculate how much gravity a partial mash is adding to the recipe. Thanks.

I have never calculated anything like that up to this point, but I am still very new at this. I have heard that there are several recipe calculators you can find online and plug in your ingredients to, and it will give you that information. Try tastybrew or brewsmith.

You can try e mailing Spike at Terrapin and ask him. He's been known to pass that info on. I asked him years ago about infusing coffee flavor that he wrote me back with their methods. He also helped another friend with the Rye Squared recipe.

Won't hurt.

pcoonan said:

I don't have an extract recipe. I was really looking to convert the cybit recipe to extract. This last post was very helpful. I think I just need to suck it up and dive into some partial mash brewing. Still confused about how to calculate how much gravity a partial mash is adding to the recipe. Thanks.

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This should be pretty easy to PM. I would use 2 lbs of 2-row along with the specialty malts and flakes. You can get a larger straining bag and just do it on your stove top without much trouble. It may be hard to sparge so your efficiency will be low but that is nothing to be worried about since you can easily add more extract to the beer to get you up to OG.

As far as determining your yield just plug in what you are mashing into a brewing program and put a lower efficiency number in and see where your gravity is at. From that point add extract to your recipe until you get to your target OG.

Brewmasters Warehouse said:

This should be pretty easy to PM. I would use 2 lbs of 2-row along with the specialty malts and flakes. You can get a larger straining bag and just do it on your stove top without much trouble. It may be hard to sparge so your efficiency will be low but that is nothing to be worried about since you can easily add more extract to the beer to get you up to OG.

As far as determining your yield just plug in what you are mashing into a brewing program and put a lower efficiency number in and see where your gravity is at. From that point add extract to your recipe until you get to your target OG.

Click to expand...

Yeah....PM is easy......You can get a Igloo cooler for cheap and still use the bag, or buy the valve. Once you have that, you are just a boil kettle away from AG. It's the route I took.

Is it just a coincidence that everyone responding is in Atlanta? Thanks guys. I think I'm going to try the partial mash for this one. If I use the brewbuilder software, is it assuming that all grains in the recipe are being converted? If I lower my efficiency, I'm assuming I can get close to my actual starting gravity. I'll try this on the website and see what I come up with. This is great as I can swing by Brewmaster's Warehouse and pick it up after work one day. No shipping costs. Thanks for all the help.