Keggle Drilling: What Kind of Hole Saw?

I'm wore out from trying to drill a 1.25" hole in my HLT keggle for a water heater element. I'm up past 1" with the step bit, but this is taking FOREVER!

I have heard others refer to using a "hole saw". What kind of hole saw? It seems all I see are for wood or tile.

Bi-metal hole saw.
Use cutting fluid or a lubricating oil or you'll dull the teeth, and waste your money and time.
Don't go wide open with the drill, and don't force the saw through the cut.
Use a moderate amount of pressure when drilling.

If you've already used a 1" step bit you can't use a hole saw now... Just get a bigger step bit, that's what I used on the two kegs I have with water heater elements in them. Make sure to go slow, use a lot of pressure, and cutting oil.

Harbor Freight has a cheap step big that is big enough, worked for me.

conpewter said:

If you've already used a 1" step bit you can't use a hole saw now... Just get a bigger step bit, that's what I used on the two kegs I have with water heater elements in them. Make sure to go slow, use a lot of pressure, and cutting oil.

Harbor Freight has a cheap step big that is big enough, worked for me.

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I know I'll just have to work this hole out...but I have three more big holes to drill.

The step bit I'm using goes up to a little bigger than 1.25", it's just taking forever. I got spoiled drilling 7/8" holes, they don't take nearly as long.

Ah ok, cool. I suggest a good quality bi-metal hole saw then. I ground the teeth right off my cheap one before even finishing the hole.

A hole saw requires a small pilot hole, you are at that point of no return,, go buy another stepped bit and go slow with some lubricant

I did three of them myself. I know EXACTLY what you are going through. Up to about 1" wasn't too hard. But that last 1/4" seemed to take at least half an hour. I honestly didn't think it was ever going to go through, and I was using cutting oil.

I had the harbor freight bit set and I think they are pretty soft. I got a Home Depot one ($$$) and it worked much better.

Good luck.

Cpt_Kirks said:

I'm wore out from trying to drill a 1.25" hole in my HLT keggle for a water heater element. I'm up past 1" with the step bit, but this is taking FOREVER!

I have heard others refer to using a "hole saw". What kind of hole saw? It seems all I see are for wood or tile.

Click to expand...

I overlooked the fact that you would not be able to use a hole saw to finish the hole to size.
Sorry if my reply was misleading.
But a "bi-metal" hole saw can be used for future holes.

You can make a wood pug, tapered, and drive it into the hole you started already, then use the hole saw. The pilot drill goes into the wood, and the hole saw does its thing.

Definitely use a step bit, the hole saw jumps around too much and your going to end up with an ugly 1.25" hole. When drilling stainless use a lot of pressure, good cutting oil and slow rpms. I was told by a long time fabrication guy that the drill should be running around 60 rpms. I know that sounds slow, but it actually cuts really quick. The bit stays cool and sharp longer. And don't forget, if you think that you have enough oil down, put more as it keeps the bit cool.

Use a router!

I got tired of trying to cut large holes in my keggles, too. I drill a 1/2" hole (pretty easy to get there) and then use a small carbide straight cutting bit to finish the job. It's much faster and easier than drilling. I free hand it, so it's important to go slow and keep your hole round. The carbide bit cuts through the stainless steel like butter. Takes less than 10 mins from start to finish. Make sure to wear eye protection!

Don't go the cheap route when buying hole saws. Quality is number one.


Here is a picture of my 1 inch that has drill I know over 25 kegs in the last year.



No water bath no misting no slow speed Heck your only drilling a thin wall just Do It.




God Bless
Swagman

Use the hole saw to drill through a 2x4 and then clamp the 2x to the keg and use that as a pilot to keep the bit lined up while drilling. Throw some gear oil on it, drill it, and repeat on the next ones.

Can a knockout punch be used?

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0

I picked up a 1-1/8" bi metal hole saw at Lowes last night.

For the next hole, I'm going to try it, then use the step bit to clean up the hole and take it to 1.5".

Should be easier on the drill, I think I fried one of mine yesterday.

Cpt_Kirks said:

Should be easier on the drill, I think I fried one of mine yesterday.

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I definitely felt my cordless getting warm when I tried to do more than one hole with it. I switched to a corded drill with much more torque and the drilling went much faster.

bruin_ale said:

I definitely felt my cordless getting warm when I tried to do more than one hole with it. I switched to a corded drill with much more torque and the drilling went much faster.

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I've got a pair of ancient B&D 3/8 inch drills. This prolonged SS drilling is hard on them. My Dad has a monster 1/2" drill I need to borrow. One of those evil 20lb cast iron jobs.

Mine's a B&D 1/2" corded hammer drill (can turn the hammer on/off, obviously not using it for this but I bought it for drilling concrete). The thing is pretty darn heavy, it's nice cuz the extra weight of it is pressure I don't have to apply myself.

Those Greenlee punches are awesome, but are also expensive.

I have found that if you only need a few holes, the Harbor Freight kit with 4 punches works fine. $20.




If you want long lasting equipment, then I would highly recommend the Greenlee.
I will never try to drill holes in a keg with a step bit ever again.

+1 to that punch kit for element holes. Step bit to 3/4" then maybe 10 rotations with the punch and you are done. Done 6 so far and it still cuts like butter.

bbognerks said:

+1 to that punch kit for element holes. Step bit to 3/4" then maybe 10 rotations with the punch and you are done. Done 6 so far and it still cuts like butter.

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It looks like you can step up to a 1/2" hole, use the 3/4" punch, then use the 3/4" bolt to punch a 1.5" hole (I'm reading the manual for the punch kit online).

It's listed as $25 now. If it had a 7/8" punch, it would be worth it.