Braid, Manifold, or False Bottom

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BearsWickedBrew

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I want to convert a 5g cooler to a mash tun for partial mashes (figure I'll eventually go AG so I might as well use 5g instead of 3g). As far as draining wort w/ a braid, manifold, or false bottom...are all of these pretty much subject to debate as to which works better...or is there a clear winner? I was eventually going to buy a kewler conversion peice...but then I came across Fly Guy's post...great post btw!
 
Fist off, if you have to purchase the 5 gallon cooler don't go ahead and get a 10 gallon cooler. I started off with a 5 gallon and used it about 4 times brewing partial mash. When I went all grain it was too small. I wanted to save a little bit of money and get the smaller cooler but in the long run it cost me more because I ended up buying two.

I have used both a braid and a false bottom and have not been able to tell a difference with either one. I am using the false bottom almost exclusively now because that is what I have on my 10 gallon cooler.
 
I do a braid, but can't tell you which is better cuz i havn't tried the others. My reasoning is that Braid is cheap, if it doesnt work , not much is lost and you can upgrade. If you start with a false bottom and hate it , your out some cash. I have heard good things about the manifold, but it's a bit more work . The braid is easy and cheap. I've done 3 AG's and no problems. I'm doing a wheat beer soon, that should let me know if it was a good choice.
 
I just built a manifold and chose the design because if I choose to it will allow me to fly sparge, unlike a braid. On top of that I had a bit of copper laying around so it cost me about the same as a braid. False bottoms are pricey so I avoided that one.
 
I love my domed false bottom. Someone gave me the 10gal cooler (free!!!) and it already had the valve assembly plus 2 12" SS domed false bottoms (I guess in case I lose one?) I never get stuck sparges, vorlauf is quick, and it generally rocks. Yes, they're kind of pricey, but worth every penny IMHO.
 
I had spare copper laying around already so it was a no brainer.

Either way...you can use this in either a 5-gallon cooler (as shown) or in a 10-gallon cooler (which I use now).



Manifold_Unfiltered.JPG
 
Fist off, if you have to purchase the 5 gallon cooler don't go ahead and get a 10 gallon cooler. I started off with a 5 gallon and used it about 4 times brewing partial mash. When I went all grain it was too small. I wanted to save a little bit of money and get the smaller cooler but in the long run it cost me more because I ended up buying two.

I have used both a braid and a false bottom and have not been able to tell a difference with either one. I am using the false bottom almost exclusively now because that is what I have on my 10 gallon cooler.

I thought of this. However- I'm already taking up to much of the limited apartment space with brewing equipment...and decided to go 5 instead of 3. Will 5 gallons work for AG...when i do hit that point?..or is 10 gal the standard?..I also ask..bcuz i noticed I will need larger false bottom as well. So i dont want to buy 5 gal and 9" false bottom only to have to buy 10 gal and 10 or 12" false bottom...altho I'm sure this is a good amount of time away.
 
A five gallon will work great for five gallon batches up to around 1.060 or so.

I think that with fly sparging the right size false bottom is best. With batch sparging just about anything would work. If you could batch sparge with a 9 inch false bottom in a 10 gallon water jug or probably even in a rectangle cooler just fine.
 
In order to connect the false bottom to the ball valve- (from midwest supplies website) would I want to use the $1.95 (per/ft) "unreinforced" silicone tubing...or...the $5.95 (per/ft) "reinforced" silicone tubing....both are rated to like 350 degrees F
 
Related Question:

I think I could get to this by doing some calculations- but I was wondering if anybody would just happen to know the answer:

If I can only boil a max of 3 gallons on my stove, what is the maximum amount of grain (how many pounds) that will I be able to mash?
 
Figuring a boil-down of a gallon, you'd be going for a 2 gallon finished batch right? With 75% efficiency, you'll get about 27 PPG or about 14 points per 2 gallons. So, 5 pounds of grain would get you to 14 x 5 = 1.090. I'd suggest splitting your boil between two pots so you can start with 6.5 gallons and boil down to 5.
 
I just built a manifold and chose the design because if I choose to it will allow me to fly sparge, unlike a braid. On top of that I had a bit of copper laying around so it cost me about the same as a braid. False bottoms are pricey so I avoided that one.


Sorry if this is a stupid question but why can't you fly sparge with a braid?
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question but why can't you fly sparge with a braid?
When fly sparging the liquid is slowly passed through the whole surface of the grain bed. For the best efficiency you want the equal distribution that comes form draining from the entire bottom of your MLT. This will avoid channeling. With a braid you only draw from a small area (which doesn't matter in batch sparging.)
 
I always used a SS Braid with my 10 gallon round cooler and never had any problems. When I recently used my new to me brew system with 15.5 gal converted kegs I was not at all impressed with the False Bottom that came in the Mash Tun. I just finished taking it out and replacing it with a SS Braid.

One thing to consider is that a SS braid will fit a 5 or 10 gallon round cooler. It will also fit any rectangular cooler too. It is cheaper and works great (IMHO).
 
Related Question:

I think I could get to this by doing some calculations- but I was wondering if anybody would just happen to know the answer:

If I can only boil a max of 3 gallons on my stove, what is the maximum amount of grain (how many pounds) that will I be able to mash?

I am assuming your talking PM on these - when I was doing 4 gallon boils I would do 6lbs of grain. I would guess that with three gallons you could do 4.5lbs of grain.
 
Concerning manifolds, is there a critical difference between making slots as opposed to making holes? I made a cheap C-PVC manifold and I just drilled 1/16" holes all along the bottom, so far (after two batches, one was wheat) I haven't had any problems with it.

You can see it in my profile pictures.
 
I think most people slot because it makes a lot of open area relatively quickly as opposed to drilling. If you have time on your hands, a ton of 1/16" holes sounds great. I wouldn't go much larger than that because more husk will make it through requiring an extended vorlauf to clear it up.
 
I would use whatever you think is easiest to build as they all work.
I did my first mini mash in a round five gallon cooler and continue to use it with my all grain brewing. I have a CPVC slotted manifold with some small holes drilled in the end caps and elbows. But when I did the mini mash I just put an upside down steamer basket in the bottom of the cooler and put the grains in a large grain bag, without modifying the cooler at all.
 
Definitely the false bottom. Works perfectly. Oh yeah, I forgot about the braid. Ideal. Then again, you really can't beat the manifold.

I stand firmly behind my non-debatable opinions on this.

+701 on going 10 Gal over 5. I used my 5 Gal a total of 4 times before upgrading.
 
I don't understand all the people that can't use a 5 gal mash tun. I have the stuff to make a bigger one, but I haven't messed with it yet. I have brewed a total of 1 beer (the barleywine) and am about to brew one more (a double bastard clone) that needed a bigger mash tun.

Are you guys brewing all your beers in the upper 6+ % alcohol?
 
I don't understand all the people that can't use a 5 gal mash tun. I have the stuff to make a bigger one, but I haven't messed with it yet. I have brewed a total of 1 beer (the barleywine) and am about to brew one more (a double bastard clone) that needed a bigger mash tun.

Are you guys brewing all your beers in the upper 6+ % alcohol?

Been wondering the same thing.
 
I don't understand all the people that can't use a 5 gal mash tun. I have the stuff to make a bigger one, but I haven't messed with it yet. I have brewed a total of 1 beer (the barleywine) and am about to brew one more (a double bastard clone) that needed a bigger mash tun.

Are you guys brewing all your beers in the upper 6+ % alcohol?

I think most of the replies for a 10 gallon cooler are making 10 gallon batches. I know I can't get more than 25 pounds of total grain in my 10 gallon cooler tun with 1.25 qts per pound.
 
I think most of the replies for a 10 gallon cooler are making 10 gallon batches. I know I can't get more than 25 pounds of total grain in my 10 gallon cooler tun with 1.25 qts per pound.

No. I really don't think so. I only do 5 G batches.

The point is that you can do any type of beer that you want in the 10 G cooler and that the 5 gallon will limit you to sub 6% beers.

Also I am now free to do the thinner mashes that I often want to do.

I don't know why this is even a point of debate. There is no downside to buying the larger one. $10 ? Is that worth the limitations : mash thickness, size of beer?
 
I don't know why this is even a point of debate. There is no downside to buying the larger one. $10 ? Is that worth the limitations : mash thickness, size of beer?

Headspace when he is doing partial mashes - I just hate to hear everyone say that there is no point in doing 5 gal mash tuns when a lot of us use them for a majority of our beers. There is a lot to be said for starting with a small mash tun and if/when it becomes necessary upgrading to a bigger one (ie if you decide to go from small beers and partial mashing to a 10 gal all grain setup you will benefit from a bigger mash tun then 10 gal one.
 
I think most of the replies for a 10 gallon cooler are making 10 gallon batches. I know I can't get more than 25 pounds of total grain in my 10 gallon cooler tun with 1.25 qts per pound.

I only do 5 gallon batches. You can get by with a 5 gallon cooler, but, you will never be able to do a big beer.

Example: I just did an IPA that will be about 8.5%ABV. I mashed 13lbs of grain that used about 7 gallons of the 10 gallon capacity.
 
I only do 5 gallon batches. You can get by with a 5 gallon cooler, but, you will never be able to do a big beer.

Example: I just did an IPA that will be about 8.5%ABV. I mashed 13lbs of grain that used about 7 gallons of the 10 gallon capacity.

You can always mash in a bigger cooler and sparge in your 5 gallon one if those cases are few and far between.
 
But this dude is asking what he should buy???????????????????:confused:

Actually he was asking about what type of drain device to get for partial mashing....I am sorry if you disagree, but a 10g cooler is big to efficiently partial mash on and it is not useless on 5 gal batches like everyone is making it out to be.
 
I want to convert a 5g cooler to a mash tun for partial mashes (figure I'll eventually go AG so I might as well use 5g instead of 3g). As far as draining wort w/ a braid, manifold, or false bottom...are all of these pretty much subject to debate as to which works better...or is there a clear winner? I was eventually going to buy a kewler conversion peice...but then I came across Fly Guy's post...great post btw!

IMHO

Ok, for a partial mash, I would use a grain bag right in the kettle. When you decide to go AG, don't waste your money on a 5 gallon cooler. Go straight for the 10 gallon cooler or you will eventually end up with both.
 
I have a square Chest that I use, it's 8 gallons. I just did a 13.5 lb grain bill for an abbey with about 6.5 -7%ABV. I would say it was pretty close to to top of the rim. Square ice chest are cheaper than a 5g or 10g round one. Is there any reason why most folks dont just use square ice chest?
 
I have a square Chest that I use, it's 8 gallons. I just did a 13.5 lb grain bill for an abbey with about 6.5 -7%ABV. I would say it was pretty close to to top of the rim. Square ice chest are cheaper than a 5g or 10g round one. Is there any reason why most folks dont just use square ice chest?

More money.
 
I use a round braid in a 10 gallon round cooler and get around 80 % efficiency fly sparging. I used a T and connected the braid to each end.

However, I'm thinking of a false bottom because I was only able to flow .5 quarts a minute today. It was a small grain bill 8.5 lb stout. It seems to be getting sloooooower with each use.
 
More money.


:drunk: sorry I dont understand that. You can get a 10 gal square ice chest for cheaper than a 5gal round. So why not just go with square. I guess for the false bottom folks , round is the way to go. But for braid and copper, square ice chest are cheaper. And comon... who doesnt have an old ice chest? and I bet its bigger than 5 gal.
 
:drunk: sorry I dont understand that. You can get a 10 gal square ice chest for cheaper than a 5gal round. So why not just go with square. I guess for the false bottom folks , round is the way to go. But for braid and copper, square ice chest are cheaper. And comon... who doesnt have an old ice chest? and I bet its bigger than 5 gal.

More money to spend/
 
so you're saying you want to spend more money cuz you can. Ok I guess nothing wrong with that. Send some money my way:mug:
 
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