Cheap pump and FDA approved 12v 100c

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Thanks. I've got a 12v that puts out 300mah. Will that harm the pump or just not let it work at it's full capacity?

300mA will not harm the pump, but it will not be enough to make it work. Likely scenario, your 300mA power supply will overheat, spew some smoke, maybe spark and crackle a bit, and go poof; worse case scenario you'll have a power supply on fire to put out.

This pump is rated at 12 watts. Since we know it operates at 12v, we can use POWER (in watts) = VOLTS * AMPS and work it around to POWER / VOLTS = AMPS and we have:

12w/12v = 1a

So your power supply must provide 12v (it's safe to say +/- 0.5 volts) and be able to handle 1.0 or more amperes.

Rules of thumb when working with electricity:
1) always match the voltage between source and load (leave the +/- X volts for the pros)
2) Power supply provides amperes >= load consumes amperes, which translates to:
2.1) Power supply rated at equal to, but preferably more, amps than load consumes
2.2) Load consumes equal to, but preferably less, amps than power supply provides
 
mendesm said:
300mA will not harm the pump, but it will not be enough to make it work. Likely scenario, your 300mA power supply will overheat, spew some smoke, maybe spark and crackle a bit, and go poof; worse case scenario you'll have a power supply on fire to put out.

This pump is rated at 12 watts. Since we know it operates at 12v, we can use POWER (in watts) = VOLTS * AMPS and work it around to POWER / VOLTS = AMPS and we have:

12w/12v = 1a

So your power supply must provide 12v (it's safe to say +/- 0.5 volts) and be able to handle 1.0 or more amperes.

Rules of thumb when working with electricity:
1) always match the voltage between source and load (leave the +/- X volts for the pros)
2) Power supply provides amperes >= load consumes amperes, which translates to:
2.1) Power supply rated at equal to, but preferably more, amps than load consumes
2.2) Load consumes equal to, but preferably less, amps than power supply provides

Awesome. Thanks for the help. I'll keep searching around the house and hit up eBay if I can't find one.
 
any clue how these things handle recirculation of cold liquids? I really wanna set up a glycol system for my fermenters. Trying to figure out a way to mount a coil into a keggle turned into a fermentation vessel because I want to step up to a 10 gallon batch but my freezer can only fit one sanke (I want to have the capability to have ales and lagers at the same time as well)
 
Have you used this from a racking cane/siphon before, or only from the spigots/outlets on your containers? Being non self primed, you can just let the liquid flow into the pump then turn it on correct? I'd be putting it inline from carboy -> pump -> filter -> bottling bucket.

I asked about the power to draw through filters earlier, but I might pick up 1 of the cheaper 12v ones and report back. Not like it will break the bank to test it... If I do, what connectors/adapters will I need and what tubing?
 
any clue how these things handle recirculation of cold liquids? I really wanna set up a glycol system for my fermenters. Trying to figure out a way to mount a coil into a keggle turned into a fermentation vessel because I want to step up to a 10 gallon batch but my freezer can only fit one sanke (I want to have the capability to have ales and lagers at the same time as well)

Cool liquids are fine, I've used it to recirculate near freezing water, but I can't speak for below freezing temperatures.
 
Have you used this from a racking cane/siphon before, or only from the spigots/outlets on your containers? Being non self primed, you can just let the liquid flow into the pump then turn it on correct? I'd be putting it inline from carboy -> pump -> filter -> bottling bucket.

I asked about the power to draw through filters earlier, but I might pick up 1 of the cheaper 12v ones and report back. Not like it will break the bank to test it... If I do, what connectors/adapters will I need and what tubing?

Yes, I've used it with a racking cane to transfer some beer from a carboy. You're correct that it won't self prime. I just used a carboy cap and blew into it to get the beer to go up the cane and into the pump before turning it on and it worked like a champ.

I really don't know about the filter. I don't have a filter system to do that test. The pump is rated for a 3 feet rise only, without any flow restrictions. I'm sure that if you put a filter on the line it'll restrict the flow and it will affect the pumps ability to push liquids up. You'll likely have to place the bottling bucket below the carboy/filter.

For the 12v pump I use 1/2" ID hose for the inlet and 5/16" ID for the outlet and a couple of ss hose clamps to secure the tubing to the pump.
 
Yea, don't see this working too well for a filter. Whenever I filter, I push with CO2 and the psi required to get the beer through all that tubing and the filter medium (especially as it gets clogged) is probably out of the range of this pump.

Also, diaphragm pumps like shurflo are a better bet for cold side transfers because they operate at 30-45 psi, and they don't aerate the beer nearly as much. Centrifugal pumps like this one operate via an impeller spinning at a constant rate (for a given voltage), and the flow is regulated by opening/closing the outlet. Therefore, if you are transferring green beer at a slow rate with one of these pumps, the beer inside the housing is being whipped pretty brutally while it waits to be pushed through the outlet. By comparison, diaphragm pumps use rollers which are much gentler, and they self prime.
 
Interesting. I've never seen a centrifugal pump like that. Is it possible to use with carboy fermenters or is the vacuum too strong? (About to use co2 to push beer from carboys I think)
 
Interesting. I've never seen a centrifugal pump like that. Is it possible to use with carboy fermenters or is the vacuum too strong? (About to use co2 to push beer from carboys I think)

I'm not sure I understand the question.

I have used it to transfer from bucket (primary) to carboys (secondary) and then from carboy to keg, if that's what you're asking.
 
Is it mag drive? Can you restrictthe flow with a valve?

It's a plastic impeller, same plastic as the pump's head.

You can restrict the flow with a valve I suppose, just like you'd do with a march pump.

You can also control the pump's speed by varying the supply voltage, current or use PWM.
 
Looks interesting, one thing I would say is the greatbreweh.com pumps (or just the normal Topsflo TS5 15PV pumps) are only a little more expensive and you get twice the pumping capacity. Ive found that even with the 11.5 liters/min (3.2 gals/min) it isnt capable of whirlpooling very vigourously. However for transfering it is a champ and I would guess that these guys do just fine for transfering just a little slower
 
I emailed the company of the High Temp(100 'C) 6.8L/Min (108GPH) mini DC 12V Water Pump and they suggested DC12V 1.5-2a power supply.
I blew two 12v 1a on the 12v pump last night. Out to look for a 2 amper adapter!!
But looks like this pump is going to make brew night much more enjoyable.
 
This came in a few weeks ago, anyone have any picture of this on their setup? I'd like to see if you don't mind, trying to get some ideas on how I'm going to configure mine, also does anyone know what size tubing I need to get for it?
 
This came in a few weeks ago, anyone have any picture of this on their setup? I'd like to see if you don't mind, trying to get some ideas on how I'm going to configure mine, also does anyone know what size tubing I need to get for it?

I don't have a permanent brew rig yet, so I can't help you there.
 
I emailed the company of the High Temp(100 'C) 6.8L/Min (108GPH) mini DC 12V Water Pump and they suggested DC12V 1.5-2a power supply.
I blew two 12v 1a on the 12v pump last night. Out to look for a 2 amper adapter!!
But looks like this pump is going to make brew night much more enjoyable.

Nice to hear you're pleased :D

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=12v+2a

I also have a diagram of a 12v 15a powers supply for the interested DIYer interested in making their own.
 
I'd be interested to see how one could integrate a PC power supply, these pumps, and some creativity to build a brewhouse controller from an old PC. I wish I had the electrical knowledge and a 220 in my garage (or an unlimited budget) so I could be the guinea pig, but I know myself a little too well.

As it stands, how would one go about hooking one of these little guys to a PC power supply to power it? Is there a power switch built into the tiny pump, or does it rely on the power supply to start and stop the pump?
 
I'd be interested to see how one could integrate a PC power supply, these pumps, and some creativity to build a brewhouse controller from an old PC. I wish I had the electrical knowledge and a 220 in my garage (or an unlimited budget) so I could be the guinea pig, but I know myself a little too well.

As it stands, how would one go about hooking one of these little guys to a PC power supply to power it? Is there a power switch built into the tiny pump, or does it rely on the power supply to start and stop the pump?

No switches in the pumps.

To connect the 12v pump to a pc supply, black is ground (or negative) and yellow is +12v,
 
This is the diagram for the 12volt @ 15amp power supply.

IC1 is a common 7812 voltage regulator (rated for 1amp) used to keep the output voltage at 12volts.

The three transistors are power transistors (TIP2955) working in parallel in a series pass mode to source the high current.

The 7812 can provide 1a and the rest of the current comes from the transistors.

B1 can be any 15amp bridge rectifier (and I recommend going with a 20a bridge). If not available, you can make one using 4 high current diodes like 1N4007 (those are rated for 30amps).

C1, 2 and 3 are filter capacitors. Make sure they're rated for 35 (or higher) volts. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO MOUNT THEN CORRECTLY. Electrolitic capacitors have polarities. If you mount them backwards, specially in this circuit, you're going to have a nice smoky/sparkly/fiery event going on when you plug the circuit to the power line.

F1 protects IC1 from over current in case one of the power transistors fail.

F2 protects the whole setup from over current.

You can source over 15amps with additional power transistor stages. HOWEVER, you'll have to match the rating of T1, B1 (or the diodes if you're making the bridge), F2 and C1, 2 will have to be larger.


You can turn this into a 5v 15a supply if you make IC1 a 7805. In fact you

The mandatory legality: this power supply can source so much current that it is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you don't know what you're doing. If you build this, you do so at your own risk.

EDIT: You can make this power supply source any voltage you want up to 24 volts, by substituting IC1 with the appropriate part number to match the voltage you want:

5v -> LM7805
6v -> LM7806
8v -> LM7808
9v -> LM7809
10v -> LM7810
12v -> LM7812
15v -> LM7815
18v -> LM7818
24v -> LM7824 (in this case, T1 must have a 25v secondary instead of 18v)

12v-15a-voltage-regulator-_circuit.jpg
 
Anyone have any complaints about the 12v pumps yet? Probably gonna buy one soon for transfer/recirc from BK.
Such a small package, trying to think of a way to make a modular pump housing that I can prime, then mount above/beside the BK (I have an awkward 2 tier)
 
My first post, so be gentle - I just built a (cheap) system that uses the 12v Lightobject pump as the primary pump for the entire system. It is a 2 vessel, single tier RIMS system. The pump is controlled by an Arduino and a MOSFET driving a 12v 1amp power supply. I was also able to get PWM to work and control the speed of the pump.

The pump performed beautifully through heating the strike water, but the flow began to slow down during the mash recirculation. At first I thought it was a restriction on the intake from the amount of liquid available through the grain bed, but the same problem happened during the boil (I use a 1500W element in the keggle + the 1500W element in the RIMS tube). After moving the pump closer to the vessel and changing the intake to the top of the vessel instead of the valve barb, I was able to get the flow back to normal. My current theory is that the pump was not strong enough once the density rose to keep the flow rate through the entire distance of my system (the pump is normally about 3 feet below the vessel).

Otherwise, I was able to successfully complete my first solo brew using this system.
 
I have the generic (topsflo) version of this pump. You really should have a 1.5-2.0 amp power supply. I originally got this for a solar hot water heater. Did a test with a 15 watt, 12V solar PV panel. Then I hooked it up to a 12V 2 amp power supply (ebay). With the 2 amp power supply (or an old PC power supply), it pumped almost 1.5 times as fast for the same head(height)! I figure I was getting around an amp out of the panel, so it's not enough. Some claimed they burned out a 1 amp ps with this thing; another data point that 1 amp is not enough.

Now for the other extreme. For the people thinking of building a 15 amp supply - simply a waste of money and power and time! Anything over 1.5 amp or so is wasted. You can get 12V 2 amp supplies with plug and connector for $7 or less shipping included on ebay. Or buy the one here with a power supply included.
 
Sorry, just saw an earlier post. I will definitely have to reconsider the power supply. Maybe I've been lucky so far, or maybe I haven't had a problem because I use PWM to vary the speed.

Quick question - I went with this pump because it specifically said "food grade". Would pumps like the topsflo one you mentioned work for brewing? Is the primary concern the temperature? It definitely has an advantage with the input/output fitting (1/2" NPT). I had the input tube fall off during brewing even though it was clamped down. Very hard to get a good connection to the Lightobject pump's intake.

UPDATE: I lucked out - when I went back and checked the power supply, it was 2 amps.
 
Thought I would post my experience with this pump. I'm running 1/2" line for the input, and 3/8" line for the out. I also found a 12V 1.5A power supply at Goodwill, and that seems to work fine.

The pump can only push the liquid about 1.5' above the pump. This is a problem in my setup because I want to keep the burner/kettle on the floor, and I have my tun and counter-flow chiller on the work bench. I may try some 1/4" line for the out to see if that helps. If you're running everything on the same level this should work.

I'm also thinking of getting another pump and running the two in series. Still cheaper than some of the more hardcore pumps.
 
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